Busch

I had assumed those holes were pre drilled. Since I made this thread I’ve poked around the internet a little and found a handful of decent photos. I think for what I’m doing the exact location will not be critical. @jmlay thank you for the link. The pics on the site were excellent, plus I needed that plug kit anyway. Even cooler for me was that Dead Nuts On relocated to PA so shipping to me in VA was very fast. Another member of this forum @buening posted this pretty good pic a while back that showed up in a search.

Would somebody with a 70 please take a measurement from the top of the vacuum tree on the firewall to the bottom of the export brace? Also, is the tree roughly in the center of the car or is it a little bit towards the passenger side of the car?

I found out about the JAK bracket in a parts for sale ad on a Boss 302 forum. The president of JAK Precision Machining left his email in that ad. I contacted Tim this morning and he said he they still plenty of the JAK brackets in stock. He also shared a few photos of a JAK bracket next to a Boss 302 and a Boss 429 bracket. Tim Barker President JAK Precision Machining LLC 972-342-0588 timbarker01@sbcglobal.net

Might as well provide an update for this issue now that the forum is working again. After researching a bit I dug up a thread here on this forum from 2019 and found that there was a company that made a bracket that fits a double pumper named Sanco Specialties. The guy running that company disappeared in his airplane so the bracket production stopped several years ago. Recently a company in Texas named JAK Precision Machining reverse engineered a Sanco bracket and started offering them for sale. I picked up one of the JAK brackets and found the fit to be excellent.

I’m interested in a set as well if you’re looking for customers

The pulleys I had ended up working fine. Power Steering - DO0R-B Alternator - C5AF-10353-H Water Pump - D1AE-8509-BA Crank - D00E-6312-B The issue I was having with those pulleys turned out to be caused by the water pump fan hub being installed at the wrong height. I never knew it was wrong before since everything was just a cobbled together mismatch of parts that I made work with some homegrown brackets/spacers.

I picked up the replacement floor the other day? What color is the floor supposed to be? My car was built mid July in Metuchen.

It is likely I would be doing the work by myself. I’d rather not remove the windshield if I don’t have to.

The floor on my 69 Mach 1 is in worse shape than I thought it was…go figure It looks like a full floor replacement would probably be easier than two full length replacement patch panels. I’ve been in contact with a local place that has one in stock, so I will not need to worry about shipping. What is the best method for getting a full floor into the car? Remove the doors? Any tips from anybody that has done one would be much appreciated.

Thank you @stangs-R-me that info is definitely encouraging @EastYorkStang I’m not opposed to using dynamat or something similar. I just figured a direct fit part might be easiest assuming it actually fits

Anybody used a Quiet Ride Solutions firewall pad before? How was the fit? I’m considering one for my 69 https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000062x~Z5Z5Z5AAIOY~P253.00~~~~S6HV08DYKQ13720194103z~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000062x

What is the correct booster for a mid July 1969 Mach 1 built in Metuchen?

One thing I forgot to mention is that I did have to swap the oil pressure sending unit to the dummy light style like the tach cars use. I bought mine from Orlando Mustang http://www.orlandomustang.com

There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage. I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.

I am probably not able to use anything that mounts using the passenger side rear carb stud. My HP series 4150 has an accelerator pump pretty much obstructing that stud.