Busch

The pulleys I had ended up working fine. Power Steering - DO0R-B Alternator - C5AF-10353-H Water Pump - D1AE-8509-BA Crank - D00E-6312-B The issue I was having with those pulleys turned out to be caused by the water pump fan hub being installed at the wrong height. I never knew it was wrong before since everything was just a cobbled together mismatch of parts that I made work with some homegrown brackets/spacers.

I picked up the replacement floor the other day? What color is the floor supposed to be? My car was built mid July in Metuchen.

It is likely I would be doing the work by myself. I’d rather not remove the windshield if I don’t have to.

The floor on my 69 Mach 1 is in worse shape than I thought it was…go figure It looks like a full floor replacement would probably be easier than two full length replacement patch panels. I’ve been in contact with a local place that has one in stock, so I will not need to worry about shipping. What is the best method for getting a full floor into the car? Remove the doors? Any tips from anybody that has done one would be much appreciated.

Thank you @stangs-R-me that info is definitely encouraging @EastYorkStang I’m not opposed to using dynamat or something similar. I just figured a direct fit part might be easiest assuming it actually fits

Anybody used a Quiet Ride Solutions firewall pad before? How was the fit? I’m considering one for my 69 https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000062x~Z5Z5Z5AAIOY~P253.00~~~~S6HV08DYKQ13720194103z~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000062x

What is the correct booster for a mid July 1969 Mach 1 built in Metuchen?

One thing I forgot to mention is that I did have to swap the oil pressure sending unit to the dummy light style like the tach cars use. I bought mine from Orlando Mustang http://www.orlandomustang.com

There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage. I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.

I am probably not able to use anything that mounts using the passenger side rear carb stud. My HP series 4150 has an accelerator pump pretty much obstructing that stud.

I have a 69 Mach 1 that has been swapped from a 351W to a 351C. The car is currently using a homegrown cable bracket and the stock cable with an HP4150 on top of a Holley Strip Dominator. My current setup works fine, but the bracket isn’t particularly pleasing to the eye in the looks department. Anybody know what bracket fits?

What is the correct crank pulley for a 70 M code with power steering but not AC Also, what is the correct water pump pulley? The ones I have here are stamped D00E-6312-B and D1AE-8509-BA

On mine I decided to keep the original alternator gauge on the left side. Fuel gauge moved to the right side just like the original tach equipped cars. I have oil pressure and temperature gauges on the console, so having temp in the dash doesn’t help much. Of course you could also argue that the alternator gauge in the dash does very little as well and isn’t particularly useful. The tach has oil pressure and alternator and brake warning lights just like a factory tach has.

The tach I have was made by Tribute Automotive. It has modern internals and plugs into my MSD tach output. The alternator warning light works a little different than an original. With this setup the warning light comes on for undervoltage and overvoltage (11.8v and 14.2v) I did not purchase it directly from them though. The guys at Orlando Mustang did the conversion on my cluster.

There are reproductions of the in dash tach available. The one I have is made by a company in Pennsylvania. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach harness. I did have to swap the oil pressure sending unit to the dummy light style unit. The tach has the same warning lights as an original. I kept the alternator gauge on my cluster because I have oil pressure and temp gauges in the ashtray on the console. If a person were to buy the advertised cluster for $900 and then turned around and bought a new tach under dash and under hood harness, you would have quite a bit more invested than converting with a modern repro. I’m sure there is still a market for original stuff like the seller is offering, but there are other options.