JayEstes

Yeah, he's doing great.  I'm sure he's wondering why the shop couldn't sort this out.  It made no sense for the timing pointer to be removed.  After the timing and carb is adjusted the issues should be solved.

remove those dots and place them farther apart . . you have the entire width of the damper to use.
 
you do not have a line on 0 either . . you need to recheck where all the marks are.
 
you really need to remove all the paint until the metal is shiny.
 
there is a very good reason for everything people ask you to do.
 
 
This is what the timing pointer looks like.
 
1. get a 10 x 24 hex head bolt 3/8" long for the tiny open hole you see in your photo and a flat washer for the screw and a 6" piece of 12 or 14 gauge [small diameter] solid copper wire around two inches long.

2. remove the plastic coating from the wire and put a small loop in one end of the wire just big enough for the screw to go through.

3. put a 90 degree bend in it around 1/2" away from the loop so the end will stick out over the damper.

4. put the washer on the screw then lightly tighten it to see if clears the damper . . bend it until it fits properly then cut the extra length rotate it to the proper position then tighten the screw with moderate force.
 
notice that the end of the pointer is slightly to the left of the bolt . . simply rotate your wire until it is close to the same location then put white out on the end.

.................................
 
 
Here's a timing pointer made from a coat hangar which is too big for your tiny screw but oit would work on the lower timing cover stud if there was one but it is harder to make . . the lower stud takes a 5/16" x 18 nut.
 

 
 
You can buy a pointer here or at some mustang shops . . the bottom timing cover bolt is supposed to have a threaded extension sticking out around 5/8" for the other end of the pointer to mount to.
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-timing-pointer-289-302-351w-1968-1973/p/HW1300/

 
 
 
.
 

it is not required.
 
rotate the engine until you see the timing marks on the damper.
 
if they are hard to see, clean or sand the marks until thy are easy to see.
 
put a long line on the 0 or TDC [top dead center] mark with liquid white out.
 
put 1 very small dot on the 10 degree line.
 
put 2 small dots on the 20 degree line.
 
put 3 small dots on the 30 degree line.
 
put 4 small dots on where the 40 degree line would be . . you can measure the distance from 0 t 10 degrees then measure from 30 using that distance and that will be 40 degrees.
 
remove and plug the distributor vacuum hose.
 
lower the idle as much as possible.
 
start the engine and check where the long line is in relation to the timing cover.
 
turn the engine off and put a dot on the timing cover where the 0 timing line on the damper was.\\now we at least have reference points which as we need.
 
.

ok, below is just one method.
 
put several paper towels on the left side of the carb below the inspection screws
 
put a felt pen mark on one side of the nut on top of the screw
 
start engine and let run for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove the gas level inspection screw in the side of the carb . . if gas pours out, reinstall the screw.
 
cover the screw on the top of the carb and loosen it 1 full turn.
 
pry up on the nut to make sure the gasket isn't stuck to it and the carb.
 
release the nut and turn it clockwise 1/2 turn.
 
tighten the screw with moderate force.
 
start the engine then look at the screw to insure it is not leaking gas . . if it is, turn the engine off and tighten it more then start engine and check again . . if it is still leaking, one or both of the gaskets are damaged so remove them and do to a hardware store and see if you can get some that will work . . if there is no leak, go to the next step.
 
remove the inspection screw . . if gas comes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove inspection screw.
 
if no gas comes out, push on the side of the car a couple times with lite force . . if any gas sloshes out, the gas level is correct.
 
if no gas sloshes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut counter clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off and check gas level.
 
repeat steps as necessary until a little gas sloshes out when you push on the carb.
 
 
TYPE TWO INSPECTION SCREW
 
If you have a clear sight window, set gas level until it is near the bottom of the window
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off.
 
if the gas level is too high, turn nut in 1/2 turn per instructions above.
 
start car
 
rev the engine a little few times then turn it off and check the gas level.
 
if it is still high, turn nut in 1/2 turn then start car and rev a few times r
 
 
..
 
.

They look like they could be swapped L & R which I think could happen if they they are rotated 90*. That looks like that would put the tab for the shock at an odd angle. The hole pattern for the U-bolts looks close enough to being square that it would be possible.
 
The down facing lips should run side to side

On my 69 (San Jose, CA assembly), I found matching VINs on the top edge of the driver-side & passengers-side "inner fender apron" - the part that is formed into the side firewall and has the shock-towers bolted onto it).  These VINs are covered by the outer fenders which lay over the top of the apron and cover the VINs.  When you remove the outer fenders, you can see these numbers.
 
Both the engine and the transmission VINs are stamped on the "top side".  The engine VIN can be found on the block, back near the firewall, and the transmission stamp is also on the top of the transmission housing nearer the backside then the bell-housing.
 
I have not found any other VIN's in the restore I have been doing.  Are there any other places to look for VIN stamps on a 69?

Run the power for your electric choke from the STA terminal on your alternator.

52 mph is 86.7% of 60mpg, or 13.3% low. So you need to make your driven gear spin 13.3% faster.
 
13.3% of 21 teeth, is 2.8 teeth.
21 - 2.8 = 18.2, or 18 tooth gear.
 
 
Another way to look at it,
100% - 86.7% = 13.3 % of 21 teeth = 18.2 So try a 18 tooth gear and recheck.
 
Also you can check ot this calculator http://www.classic-cougar.com/tools/speedocalc/speedocalc.php

I got my rollers from NPD.
 
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_roller_window_regulator_nylon-146340-2930.html

"Painted" my Mustang today.  I haz the skillz!
 
Before:
 

 
 
 
After:
 
 

Installed the rebuilt rear end and new leaf springs.

Cleaned up the gas tank with a scotch brite pad and installed a new fuel filter on the sender.
 
Matt

If you want to clean everything down to factory paint, then sand-blasting and wire-wheeling isn't the way to go.  The concours folks recommended this to me circa 2000 and it worked really well.  Put the car up on a lift or high jackstands in a well ventilated area.  Dip a rag in gasoline or kerosene and use elbow grease.  For severely scraped on crud, a small scraper will do.  Be patient, but the underside will look like the factory did it without the undercoating/soundproofing, and all of the rust areas will be clearly evident.  It took me about 3 months to do the whole underside of my 66 fastback, working weekends. 

I used a pressure washer with the he car on jack stands.
I had to do,it,several times.
In between I used paint scrapers, puddy knives and wire brushes to loosen up the harder stuff.
Then hit it again with the pressure washer
 
Bob

I Contacted a local sand blast shop and they came to the house and I put car up on blocks about 3' in the air and the fellow climbed under the car and blasted it to the white, he then proceeded to do under the hood, behind the fender area which the fenders were off so he did those also, then the inside and the trunk area... Charged me $350.00 and took about an hour or so.
He even blew most of the sand out of the car and I finished getting the remainder of the sand out with my shop vac, and then rolled it into the shop and hosed it down with POR-15

I suspect it's your wiper motor. There are 2 power wires going to the motor. One is switched through the wiper switch on the dash, the other is always hot but is switched inside the motor. The one inside the motor opens when the wipers are in the park position.
 
As long as your dash switch is ON, the motor will run. When you turn the dash switch off, the motor will still run until it hits the park position, where the internal switch opens, and it will stop. If you open up the motor, I bet you find your problem - a worn out or broken part involving the internal switch causing it to stay on all the time.

update - I snagged the 70 mustang rear window trim and it fits better than i hoped
 
its not 100% flush, but still very happy with it
 

 
ill try to upload a better picture later

The easiest way is to have a friend/brother do them for you. When my brother isn't around I like to use a 3/8" air ratchet.
 
Well, you've got 6? vertical down at the top inside edge, the easy ones.
1 horizontal forward at the upper rear, accessible above the top hinge w/the door open.
2 vertical up from below the rear lower edge,
2 vertical down? at front lower edge to the valence,
2 horizontal forward, accessible thru the front of the wheelhouse against the inner fender.
 
There may be a bracket or 2 at the front which haven't been on my car for years. I'll do some pics if you'd like. If your fenders have been on for a while, the seal along the upper edge may be glued to the inner fender.

What was mentioned was correct. I have to sign up as a dealer/distributor to get that pricing. I have a small side buisness so I can do that, but if one of you has an automotive buisness I am happy to work,with you on this deal and then you will be a distributor and get that same discount in the future ( pending that you maintain their sales minimums.)
 
They did not seem to be interested in selling a bunch of them to a bunch of individuals as they want dealers. They seem to be a company that is in a growing position that lacks a full dealer network. If they sell to a bunch of yahoos here and there that undermines their exsisting dealers.
 
I have to do things right and legal here as was mentioned if I don't I am on the hook to the government with all their BS.
So while I know some of you are eager as am I to have a new toy. I have to take the time to do this right so all,is fair to everybody.
In this I want to maintain full transpairancy so you guys can ask anything you would like, I don't mind.
 
My plan as it is.....
 
Get approved and signed up with EFI tech.
Get the actual dealer pricing information for all the items so I can let you guys know what the exact cost will be.
Get commitments from everybody that wants product and then get your money. I don't mind making no money here but I'm not spending my money to make no money.
Make the order and pay them.
Recieved the order.
 
Distribute the order, which will mean there will be a shipping charge to get them from me to you. For,those that want to meet up and get yours in person I'm good with that. I will me making a trip to Southern California several times nex year so those of you in that area I can bring them with me. I am generally in the West Covina area when I am there. I also plan to be in stocton and perhaps San Francisco.
I live in Visalia and have family in Fresno so those are my stomping grounds.
For,our Australian friends, I have a good friend and mustang nut that lives in the Brisbane area. He comes to,visit me about every 9 months give or take. Generally he comes here when we have rounded up a couple of cars and some parts that he will put in a container to take back with him. I know he will take stuff back if I ask him to however he may charge you a small fee as there is some paperwork he has to do on his end importing them. For this to happen we need to have further conversation before you send me money.
 
I can/will make you a recipt for the purchase from me (that's really what this is) as I have to keep things proper myself.
Somebody mentioned warranty. Feel free to read the factory warranty for details. Full disclosure is that you cannot count on any warranty support from me other than me helping out to be a nice guy. I am not obligating myself to anything on a product I have never used or installed before and that I am not making any money on.
 
Full disclosure. I am planning to purchase either one or likly two for myself so yes I am benefiting a little by doing this. However I can buy them at a 10% jobber/installer price today with my buisness. That will save me about $90 per unit which is not a big deal but it's something. Keep in mind that doing the dealer thing is only going to benifit me another $90 per unit in savings. So I am getting something off this, but not much.
Some,of,you may be in a position to buy direct from them under the jobber/installer pricing. If you have or a friend has an automotive buisness and you want to do this...by all means, go ahead. You will not be hurting my feeling at all and you will likly get your new toy faster than waiting on me.
 
Let's talk money. I have been thinking about this and am thinking that if I do PayPal I'm going to ask that you send it as a gift.
Why? Well,PayPal charges a fee, and at a zero margin of my part that doesn't work. You can say you will send a little,more to cover the fee but that also implies a product protection that I don't want to be on the hook for. Not saying that anyone would do that to me but I'm not so,sure I want to adsorb any more risk here than I already am.
Ideally all,of you would give me cash, but this is not an ideal world as we are all over the place. I may ask for a certified bank check or something. I am open to I put and discussions for this as well as others ideas.
 
Friends. I guess you can say we are internet friends here which is nice but that is not the same as being actual hang out every weekend friends. So I think we need to have some measure here for everyone's happiness. Again I am open to Input on this, but these are my thoughts. You guys see me on this board, you see what I write/ participate. I have bought things from some of you and I have sold things to some of you. All of those deals have worked out very well so far. There are a few of you I email or text with outside of this board as well. My though is that I want to do this for ACTIVE member of this board. If your are new and have a post count of 4, I don't think you are going to be playing this round. The only way we know who each other really is here is from what we write, the only way we will know you is if you have written enough that we know who you are.
Does that seem unfair? Who knows but it is a though that I have had
 
So all the above is just the ramblings of someone that is nuts enough to have an addiction to mustangs, participate in the conversation and I will proceed with trying to make this work out for us. If it works out well enough I may try it again on something else that we all want.
 
Bob

Also,
 
Power steering pulley is driven by the 'center belt' on the 3 groove crank pulley. It drives the fan/waterpump, AND over to run the power steering pump.
 
If you need brackets, pulleys or whatever for your 69, give Chockostang a call. Very nice man, and he knows exactly what engine needs what. He has helped me in a number of builds, and has helped many others. He has spares for most things, brakes, power steering, pumps, all that.
 
Worth a call if you are hunting 69 brackets. They can be a bit tricky to find. More to the point, it can be tricky to know what you NEED. There were a lot of changes to the engine and bracketry and water pumps, timing covers, and radiators in 1970,
 
You may even have a 'mix and match'. I did once, on a 70 coupe. It happens.

Can you sell the original for more than you can buy an aftermarket one?
 
If yes then sell it and buy the aftermarket.
Of no then just cut it and use it.
 
Bob

A reliable tire choice for the 69 and 70 Mustangs in the 15 inch range is
front- 225/60/15 on a 15x7 (4.25" BS)
rear 255/60/15 on a 15x8 (4"BS)
 
Plenty of room at the rear for bigger.  I run 275/60/15 rears on my 70 with no rub. (225/60/15 front)  Seems that the 235 tire is sometimes a tiny bit too wide for 'some ' 69's  but it depends on a lot of factors like manufacturing tolerances, lowering mods, collision repairs etc.  Fender rolling cures it for most, but not all. 

Go to electric Fans from a Cougar or a Mestique or a Contour.... The dual fans have the PERFECT size shroud for the Champion 24" Radiator...Ask me how I know

As a novice I have managed to fix, or diagnose most of the electrical problems with my first Mustang, (a 70 coupe) and since then my second (a 69 Mach 1), using just a few tools.
The multimeter is the best tool, and as mentioned, get one with automatic shut-off, and audible continuity setting.  They are accurate, robust, and can help in many different ways.
The multimeter is perfect for wiring for lights, horns, indicators, anything that is powered, and has a switch to provide the power.  You can use it to test your battery, and your regulator. 
 
A quick and useful tool is the simple test light, which is like a sharp screwdriver with a ground wire hanging out of the handle.  Cheap, and when you clip the ground wire to a ground, (clean chassis metal, or negative battery terminal)  you can easily test your fuses (both ends), and any wire with 12 volt power. 
 
Many times you will need a way to put power into a test item, like a gauge, or a motor for a wiper, anything you have off the car.  For this you will have choice of a purpose built power supply (usually variable voltage)  or simply a good car battery with some big alligator clips on the terminals and small ones on the working ends.  You need to be careful with these ends.  Contacting them together will cause sparking and may damage your item with spikes and shorts.  Rubber coated or shrouded clips will help.  This will help with testing bulbs, especially the small instrument cluster bulbs and bulb holders, which always seem to be sketchy.  I went through about twenty holders and new bulbs to get solid, working sets in both Mustangs.  The 70 has the printed circuit board to power the instrument lights and gauges, for your information.  You also have the IVR - Instrument Voltage Regulator or also called CVR -Constant Voltage Regulator.  This unit breaks down the 12 volt feed to a 5 volt feed to power the gauges.  Remember that if working on gauges - don't use 12 volts direct.
 
For working on gauges and sending units, the Mustangs have a specific resistance range for both.  Ford use gauges and senders that show "full" at 10 ohms, and "empty" at 78 ohms.  Chevrolet use zero to 90 ohms, for reference.  Your temp, fuel and oil pressure gauges are all pretty much identical inside, and the senders are screwed in to the block, or in the gas tank, and are designed to vary their resistance according to changing temps. levels and pressures.  They can be tricky to understand at first, but once you realize how they work with the gauges, it starts to get easier, to diagnose and isolate the problem.
I made a cheap box with a variable ohms output, and two wires to 'simulate' the ohms output to help with my gauges on both cars.  Worked great and saved me time and frustration.
 
Not knowing what issues you are having, that is my list of helpful tools.  Whatever is wrong, it has probably been had before by someone on here, and you will likely find a solution.  Glad you are getting hands-on....post your questions when ready. 
 
 
 
 

That's a good reason not to rush, lol.
 
Edit, I'm with you about the red, although mine was red when I bought it I knew I wouldn't keep it red when the time came. I'll most likely go back to it's original Pastel Gray.