69RavenConv

Oh, I know, just saying I'd love to find a similar project.

Somebody got a sweet project. I've got a 5.0L roller motor just looking for a truck like that,

Good advice from our esteemed colleagues above. An old-fashioned cheese grater battery tester is still a great way to test a weak or failing battery (and this is from a guy who spent a few years of my career working on a high-tech, electronic lead-acid battery tester to compete with Midtronic's high-tech electronic lead-acid battery testers*). Load tests don't lie, and those load testers are cheap. Since you've just been to the body shop, don't rule out the possibility they nicked or squashed a wire while removing and replacing trim and body parts, creating a short to ground. *We got pretty good at it but their lawyers convinced our lawyers not to go to market :).

The story isn't over yet. If you traded your bad ones for new 3-ton Pittsburgh stands, those just got recalled, too. https://www.thedrive.com/news/34629/harbor-freight-recalls-even-more-jack-stands-over-weld-defects

Here are some pics of my standard interior. The deluxe is the same as far as the white glove box switch is concerned. Welcome to the site!

+1 Dearborn - radiator support Metuchen - inner fender San Jose - none.

Nice car and welcome to the site!

I like it!

Gas, temperature, and oil pressure all work off the same voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Since only the oil gauge is malfunctioning, it's probably not the cluster. With the key on, if you unplug the wire at the sender and momentarily ground the plug to the engine block, the oil pressure gauge should peg to the H side. Only do this for a moment, don't leave it grounded very long!! If the gauge moves ok, you might need a new sender. If it doesn't move ok, it might be your gauge or wiring that's bad Don't know why it would fog, unless something's getting hot? Stuff getting hot is never good.

First thing do do is measure the actual oil pressure with a real mechanic's gauge (even one from Harbor Freight). If your oil pressure is truly low, stop driving and fix it. If oil pressure is ok (and it sounds like maybe it is since you're driving it around) check your gauge and sender. The gauges on these cars are notoriously untrustworthy, and often old age and previous owners make them worse. There are some easy ways to test, you can google this and other Mustang sites for threads. Do the gas and temperature gauges work ok?

I think it could fetch that to the right buyer - someone like you who can appreciate the survivor angle. Every day, there are fewer and fewer survivors out there. Can't hurt to price it high and see if you get any bites. Good luck and sorry to hear your 're considering selling but I totally understand how life marches on for all of us.

1. The dual diaphragm advance is generally considered an emissions control and engines can run without it. It just depends upon how "correct" you want restoration to look. In fact, many say you should run without it. 2. Pretty sure the yellow top was in use until at least the early 70's, so it should be correct for your 1970. 3. By 1969 (and maybe earlier) the thermostatic door was in use, so the "after" picture looks right. 4. You didn't ask but I think the oil breather should be black, not engine blue.

Happy birthday to a fellow convertible! (I mean, convertible owner)

I did it again this year -- Birthday came and went and I'm a week late remembering it. She turned 51 on June 4th. I'll take her and the wife out this weekend :)

I hear ya -- surprised even myself when I looked at the date code. I didn't even realize I've had the car on the road that long, LOL I always keep it on a trickle charger, I guess that helped (or I'm just lucky). Picking up the replacement this afternoon,