69RavenConv

Danno, I got them on eBay. Sorry, I searched my archives but could not find any record of the seller or part number. I bought them 5 or 6 years ago so they probably aren't around any more anyway. However, you want to search for white 194 or T-10 LED bulbs. Look for the style in the picture below. As noted above, the 5050 chips are brighter than the 2825. I think I got the 2825 and they are ok but slightly on the dim side. You may want to buy a few of each and compare. Here's a link to some I might try if I were buying today.

Late 69 Metuchen plate 76A - Convertible, standard interior TOPS - Black top, plastic rear window 2A - Black standard interior W - ? May be a qualifier for the paint YELLOW - Exterior paint color PS - Power steering PT - Power top

Yes, I am sure there are better materials to use - the good news is it doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. Because my tack strip was toast, I did what I needed to remove it. I'm pretty sure I used pop rivets to attach the home-made replacement but it's been a long time ago and I was improvising as I went along so the details are lost. I'll check my archives, I may have taken some pictures. I remember being pleasantly surprised that it all worked when I was done - I wasn't sure it would. I think you and aslanefe have a better approach with epoxy based fillers

I did not rebuild my frame but I repaired damage a long time ago. My memory is fuzzy but I recall I used body filler to fill the worst of the pitting in the aluminum and I pop riveted a piece of plastic side molding to replace the tack strip. I don't think there were any replacement tack strips available back then but I found a piece of molding at the auto parts store that was very similar. It held the staples and has served me well for many years so I guess it's ok.

Easy preliminary check it to unplug your fans and see if anything changes. Relays are always a good idea, even on a bone stock car, but they won't make up for an undersized alternator.

Stay safe and keep the Mach I ready to bug out :)

Charleton Heston - The Omega Man - makes a get away in a Mary Tyler Moore look-alike Mustang.

Great looking Honda! I've been seeing a lot of those lately - passed one on the road the other day and there's one in a Ford pickup commercial on TV.

I always assumed Ford routed the heater hose this way to better gauge/utilize engine temperature at the choke. Imagine driving 55 mph down the road in Minneapolis in January and how long it would take to open a non-electric choke without the hose.

Yep, that's it!

I've got the same exhaust on my 302 vert except inexpensive turbo mufflers. The drone around 2500 RPM is bad, even in a topless car. Do you have any drone issues? I might be interested in your muffler setup.

I want to say the OEM filter was located at the input to the carburetor. It was a metal (brass?) fitting with a screen-type filter element inside. Maybe an inch or two long that threaded between the hard fuel line and the carb body - badically part of the carb like Redstang said (welcome to the site!). But it's been years since I looked my original 2100 and my memory is getting old. I inserted an aftermarket filter between the pump and my Holley carb years ago.

This is a very cool mod and I'm constantly amazed at the ingenuity out there. My vert has the cable control on the driver's mirror and when the passenger side is off, I simply ask the wife to move it a little this way...a little more...oops, too much, back a little...that's good...down a little...no back up...

Those vinyl top parts can be very hard to find, Ford didn't make a lot. good luck and welcome to the site!

I've got a folder full of old receipts going back many years, too. Lots of places no longer around. I guess it's inevitable.