69RavenConv

I would start by unplugging both horns. If the fuse still blows when you press it, there's a short in your harness or horn switch. If not, check for 12 volts at each connector when you push the horn bar. If that's good, re connect the horns one at a time and see if one or both is a problem.

Did you burp the cooling system? Air pockets around the temp sensor can cause it to read high.

Is it yours??

I paid $800, just about all the money I made that summer. It was sitting in a gas station with a for sale sign in the windshield. God, I was a scrawny lad back then, eh?

Following Bigmal's lead, allow me to wish a Happy 49th Birthday to my Mustang! I've owned it since it was 5. Geez, I'm old!!! Coincidentally (and quite unexpectedly) I received a letter from my bank today informing me the loan on my 2011 Mercury (bought in 2014) is now paid in full. Life is funny that way sometimes.

Ha! Mine was built two days later, June 4, 1969. Perhaps our cars shared a transport ride together as they left the plant (mine's a Dearborn car).

Cool, it's nice to know it can be done on a vert.

You ran 3" pipes above the reinforcement plate? I have 2-1/4" and it was a very tight fit. As Barnett said, 2-1/2" would require very good exhaust work, I can't imagine 3".

Beautiful dog! I lost my best girl in November so I know what you're feeling. A dog breaks your heart but once.

OP said he's running LED lamps so he should have solid state flashers. You might try checking the turn signal flasher to see if it's still good. Check the grounds on the taillight sockets. too. The buckets are insulated by rubber gaskets so they run a ground wire from the bulb socket to chassis. I've knocked those spade lugs loose futzing around in the trunk on occasion.

Something's intermittent, either the CVR, the wiring, or the sender. If your oil pressure and temperature work ok then the CVR is probably ok. If they are also intermittent it's likely the CVR or maybe the printed circuit or it's connector. You can test the wiring by disconnecting the sender at the gas tank and shorting the wire to chassis for a moment (with key on). If the fuel needle deflects towards full, then the wiring is ok (DO THIS QUICKLY - LEAVING IT SHORTED TOO LONG CAN DAMAGE YOUR GAUGE). Keep in mind a loose wire may test ok one day, then rattle loose and test bad another day. Put an ohm meter between the chassis and the sender post on the gas tank - you should measure some resistance, if it measures open circuit then your sender is bad. The floats can also leak and sink in the tank but this won't be intermittent - it will be permanently on "E" when that happens. It's possible the crude sliding potentiometer on the sender may be corroded. Some emery cloth on the connector can't hurt either. Good luck!

Just about all old convertibles start to sag in the middle and judging by the door alignment in your pic, yours is no exception. Pay attention to that when you start welding in the new metal so you get a nice straight body when you're done. Also, don't throw away anything, no matter how roached. Verts have some unique parts that aren't reproduced and you'll go nuts trying to find replacements (ask me how I know). Other than that, it's a Mustang. Looking forward to your build! Oh, and BTW, I bought my Mustang in Norwalk back when I lived in Connecticut.

The dash light you are seeing is illuminated through a switch on the distribution block under the hood. It's meant to indicate a pressure imbalance between the front and back brake lines. It can be a bear to extinguish under the best circumstances and in bad circumstances it freezes up and won't go out without a rebuild. If you're confident in your brakes you can simply unplug the 2-pin connector on the brass distribution block and it will go out. Otherwise you must bleed each circuit (front and back) alternately until you get the slug in the distribution block to center itself and open the switch. The switch on the e-brake pedal lights up the brake light that was part of the "convenience group" option package. On cars without the convenience group, I don't think you get a light for the e-brake.

Me too. Should be a fun project, easy to work on, shouldn't break the bank, and you'll have something that not everyone else has. I'm guessing any missing parts can be found in Arizona. My buddy back in the 70's had a sharp white with blue trim Pinto that he kept immaculate. And, of course, Bob Glidden and Jack Roush both had nice 351C-powered Pintos.

I agree, someone should rescue that poor car and give it a good home. It makes me think of a 16-year old with daddy's car and a J.C. Whitney catalog in 1971 ... "I want chrome mud flaps, chrome exhaust tips, traction bars, Gabriel Hijackers, and definitely that 'Mega-Tune K-2000 45-Degree Ultra Bent Radio Antenna', LOL