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69RavenConv last won the day on January 1

69RavenConv had the most liked content!

About 69RavenConv

  • Rank
    Call me Phil - Owner since 1974
  • Birthday 02/05/1958

Profile Information

  • Location
    -NE Ohio


  • Biography
    1969 Mustang Convertible
  • Location
    NE Ohio
  • Occupation

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1,168 profile views
  1. Turn signals not working

    Swapping the wires to the side marker wouldn't have any effect as long as they are the right wires to begin with. Current flows into the bulb on the hot side and back to ground on the low side, reversing it will still light the bulb. You could pull the bulb (opening the circuit) and see if anything changes. You said you are running LED lamps so I assume you know you need a different flasher for LED's - the OEM units are bimetallic and require a good slug of current to work. LEDs don't draw enough and will exhibit the symptom you see - constant ON. Might want to look at that. I know you said they worked before but you also said you swapped in a new flasher so you might want to look into that. Good luck, electrical problems can be the worst!
  2. The Bitch is Back!

    I'm jealous. I've got a fresh .030-over fuel injected 5.0L sitting in the garage just looking for a good home like that. Neat project, have fun!
  3. Intermittent ignition issue

    The only point in doing it the way I did is that once the pink wire is removed it is likely gone forever -- with little or no chance of ever replacing it should anyone ever want to. Most people don't care but it's important to me to preserve as much of the original car as I can, that's the only reason I kept it. Not concours correct but "period correct" lets say. Jay, what I did is splice an 18-ga. wire into my OEM harness right behind the ignition switch, where the pink wire originates. Then I snaked it along the original harness in the engine compartment to the distributor, then inside the distributor to the Pertronix unit. The pink wire* still goes to my OEM yellow-top coil. Of course, the extra wire on my coil for my aftermarket tach is also incorrect but if you're clever only a trained eye will spot the extra wire(s) in the bundle. *The pink wire actually goes to a 3-pin connector where the mating side is green/red.- so it's actually green/red at the coil.
  4. Intermittent ignition issue

    I ran a wire in parallel with the pink wire, so I get 12V to the distributor. I can always remove it if I want. We all know Pertronix claims their system will work on ~6V but it's really designed to work on 12V. I'm kind of a purist who likes keeping true to stock, but I also like my ignition to work..
  5. Been a long time since I've been here

    There's a ton of rust-free old cars hiding in Arizona, that '69 coupe still may turn up. There's a 1971 Ranchero on Craig's List right now that's got the original 429 in it that I would love to get but I don't have the cash :)
  6. Been a long time since I've been here

    Welcome back Russ! My late uncle bought a '72 Ranchero new back in the day like the one below (not his). As a 14-year old, I always thought it was a cool vehicle. Wouldn't mind having one myself . .
  7. Painting/Dyeing Dash Pad & Console

    Hey, best of luck to you! The SEM product is great but the colors can be hit or miss, as I said above. I hope you get a great batch and the red ends up looking great.
  8. Just curious - is the 1985 Crown Vic the only vehicle that's a drop-in or are there other models/years that use the same mechanism?
  9. Painting/Dyeing Dash Pad & Console

    I went the low-tech rattle can route. I tried a few brands but the best of the bunch were the SEM products from NPD. I had a lot of trouble getting a good match for the red; it is really hit or miss. I got lucky and used a good batch on the dash. If I were to do it again I might look to an automotive paint store to mix some for me. I think the color would be more reliable but who knows? You'll notice I used the 1968 color which I feel was a better match for the red than the maroon stuff they sell for 1969.
  10. To Dye or Not

    Dying vinyl can work out ok. I found misting it on in several coats worked best. I brushed it out with a horsehide paint brush (the kind you paint a house with) a few seconds after applying each coat. This seemed to cut the sheen, that artificial shiny look, and it came out looking authentic. I have a red standard interior. The carpet, upholstery and door panels I bought were a good match for the originals but I had to dye a black dash pad and steering wheel pad and paint the plastic dash extensions and bottom of the door interiors. I would guess doing black like you are contemplating would be easier than keeping the red like I did. Two things I quickly discovered: 1. Some of the "1969 Dark Red" that vendors sell is not close to the red Ford used. In fact, the "Bright Red" (often listed as a 1968 color) can be a better match. Probably not an issue with black. 2. The color of the dye and paint varies widely from batch to batch. I would buy 2 rattle cans at a time and hope they were good. If not, I bought 2 more from a different vendor. Again, probably not an issue with black. SEM and the "Generic" brand (I think it's Martin Senour) were about the best. I got lucky with the dye I used on the dash (SEM dye bought at NPD) and the paint on the doors - they turned out great. I'm still not happy with the red paint I used on the hard plastic parts and will probably re-do it at some point. Good luck whether you go with black or red!
  11. Dogs and Mustangs

    Cute but can she bust a rusty muffler hanger loose? Oh never mind, I see she's the shop foreman, so she just tells YOU which rusty hanger to bust loose....
  12. 69 Mustang and E Type Jag

    Beautiful car, I love the colors. Interesting license plate :) I quite like E-Type parked next to you as well.
  13. door hinge

    Replacing the OEM style pins and bronze bushings is also an option for less money. That's what I did. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/bush.html Granted, it's not nearly as robust as the grease filled zerk kits but it is a lot cheaper. When these cars were daily drivers and the doors were getting opened and closed a dozen times a day, 365 days a year, the hinges wore out. I figure my car is now a toy that gets driven a a couple dozen times a year so the OEM style should last me a lifetime. The zerk style would probably last 5 lifetimes but that's more than I'm going to need. :)
  14. 3G conversion original charging cable

    Electric machine guns, that's just silly. I always go with the OEM vacuum operated units.
  15. Mustang Convertible 131.jpg

    Beautiful car and great photography - I'm jealous on both counts. The color-coordinated plug wires is an interesting touch!