69RavenConv

I believe the door glass is the same across all models. In 1970 they switched the weatherstrip and put it on the rear window instead of the front. Is it possible you've got a mix of 69 and 70 glass? Bad picture of a 69 and 70 side by side.

Always amazed by the skills seen on this site. I replaced a spring on my lawn tractor and felt I accomplished something :)

Yes, like just about everything on our cars manufactured in the 60's, there are adjustments built in. I don't agree 100% with the West Coast Cougar video but it's basically sound advice. Assuming you've measured correctly and the one inch is on the right side of the equation, you can adjust the guide rods by loosening a bolt on the bottom of the door.

Congrats! Great looking car, love the paint

Since I finally fixed the exhaust and EVAP systems on my DD (2011 Mercury Mariner) I thought I'd treat her to a new set of plugs. I was shocked at how expensive some of them are ($10 and up per cylinder). Out of curiosity, I checked the price for the '69 - still about $3 per cylinder for the stock Motorcraft AF-32's I've always run. Of course, my car's mostly stock, so.... wondering what you hi-performance guys run in your vintage cars. It's my understanding that the new (platinum, iridium) plugs last longer but don't necessarily perform any different (until they age) so that's not really a concern for me, since I only put 2k-3k on my car per year.

Ask for someone smarter and they show up. Like a bat-signal. :)

Of course, any convenient chassis fastener will work. But looking at mine just now, the pump motor has a 2pin connector, with one green wire and one black. They both disappear into the wrapped wiring harness and it sure looks like they both end up in the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Funny thing is, none of my documentation shows the black wire. It's shown as a generic "ground". My wiring is OEM original and unmolested - maybe I'll take a closer look and see if I can trace the black wire when time and energy allow. Or maybe somebody smarter already knows.

Let me take a shot... Measure your tire diameter in inches: D Calculate tire circumference: C = (pi * D) = (3.1415 * D) There's 63,360 inches in a mile. (12 in/ft * 5280 ft/mi) So tire-rotations-per-mile = 63360/C Finally, your 3.00 differential spins 3 times per tire rotation, so the driveshaft speed is (3*Tire-rotations-per-mile) Example, tire is 24" in diameter... D= 24 C = (3.1415 * 24) = 75.6336" Tire-rotations-per-mile = (63360 / 75.6336) = 837.72 Driveshaft-rotations-per-mile = (3 * 837.72) = 2513.19 [edit] Maybe easier just to measure your tire circumference instead of doing it the long way?

Is there an ID tag on the toploader?

I'll be following along. I've had a similar idea ever since my sticker disintegrated during the restoration, despite my attempts to save it. I'm fortunate that I've at least seen it and was able to photograph it. Coppola Ford was in Fairfield, Connecticut. You might try googling the dealership name for old newspaper ads, they often included the dealer's logo. If there's a local historical society, you can reach out to see if they have any old photos that might include a car or a shot of cars at the dealership. Good luck!

I reached out to Danno and I'm happy to report that he is ok and still has the Mustang. He says life got busy but plans to return to the site when things subside and he has the time again. :)

A googly search shows a few different speakers for sale. I think Pakrat installed Fiero seats in his vert but he's been AWOL for years. Mr. Mike is still in business, too http://mrmikes.com/fierohome.htm

I get the hub concept but it's those random 800 mile diversions in the wrong direction that make me wonder. All's well that ends well, I got the part one day before Amazon offered to give me a refund (of course).

Far and away the most frustrating part of the hobby - having to do something twice (or three times, or...)

Agreed, reminds me of Bugs Bunny's wrong turn in Albuquerque joke.