69RavenConv

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing.

Ok, things are getting clearer. I started looking around for a donor wheel and looked at some photos. That prompted me to pull out my old photos and found the one below from several years ago. You can see the contacts are held on by Philips screws. My screws are now missing. Did I absent mindedly remove them at some point and forget to replace them? Probably. So I still may be able to repair it with a donor wheel. Or worst case, go used/repop.

I was thinking that the whole assembly could be salvaged from a donor wheel. It appears to be riveted to the steering wheel. If so a cracked or bent wheel could be a perfect donor. Thanks for the tip.

That is correct.

That's a contact point, one of two (the other is broken off). When the horn ring is depressed, it touches both and completes the circuit. (The one in your picture may be partially broken, too, as I attached the horn ring misaligned and it crushed the contact points.) Each contact goes down the hole and connects to a ring on the bottom of the steering wheel. Those rings touch 2 spring loaded contacts (brushes) on the turn signal switch. This allows constant electrical contact when the wheel is turned. So I broke one contact completely off and may have damaged the other. The trick is to restore electrical continuity between the contacts and the rings on the bottom of the wheel, and restore the missing contact. Better pictures may help :)

Thanks, I can do that. I always prefer fixing the OEM vs. large money for an inferior repop. But there's a few challenges here, not the least of which is I can't find the broken off contact button that's supposed to be on the left side. Give me a day or two to get some better photos.

I'm not @nickjames138 but I think he meant Mustangs, Etc in L.A. https://www.mustangsetc.com/

For those of you playing along at home, I finally got the car back on the road. I spent the winter tearing down the dash, the wheel, and going through the trunk inspecting all the wiring I could. I never found an identifiable defect. An ohmmeter confirmed the turn signal switch went bad. The new part I replaced it with was also bad (uh-oh, bad harness, short, etc, right? None was found). Replaced the Scott Drake replacement with a Shee-Mar I found on Rock Auto (I honestly don't know if one is better than the other) Everything now works, keeping my fingers crossed. Well, one thing doesn't work. The moron wannabe mechanic working on the repair (me) broke the horn button. so now I have no horn and it looks like the only option is a new steering wheel. anyone got a red 2-spoke they wanna sell cheap?

There's no replacement for displacement, that's true. But remember, if the car was originally a straight six, it's probably not equipped to just drop in a big V8. Do your due diligence on brakes, suspension, differential, etc... you probably have 4 lug wheels and small drum brakes and other stuff that will require an upgrade. But have fun.

I'm sure I don't know any answers but what kind of computer and browser are you running?

Good looking truck. I'd take it in a heartbeat.

The OEM radio was lit by a single bayonette style bulb that got power through a single blue wire you can see in the photo below. It sounds like your harness is pretty butchered so it may take some work to find the conductor (or what's left of it) in your dash.

Site says he is "buyingtime2" on eBay. I searched and found this (hope the link works). Maybe you can reach him there. He currently has 4 or 5 1970 Mustang parts up for auction. https://www.ebay.com/usr/buyingtime2?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559

It's a challenge but can be done. Can you be more specific? Welcome to the site!

Nothing to add but reinforcing what aslanefe has already said. Start from the inside and work your way up. Once you've removed the bottom plate at the top of the windshield, you can access the nuts holding the stainless top plate on.