Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JayEstes

  1. Mine was cracked and it wasn't all obvious it was until I tried to pull it out of the booster, and it broke. Make sure you get the right size hoses to go with it. It should go from the booster into the main vac port on the back/top of the engine. This hose is very important to overall vacuum, as it is a larger size, and leaks have a big effect. It won't cost you but a little more to get the hose replaced.
  2. 1 1/8in sway bar upgrade on the front is absolutely the best handling/safety upgrade I have made tot he car. very little body roll for normal driving, much better handling
  3. If I were you, I’d pull the harnesses and send em to midlife. They come back completely like original and you get a custom wire list. Highly recommended service!
  4. Yes, agree, I think my point was a fuel neck is not.a great place for a printed part. I understand the stuff your talking about and would just use simple original parts because they are likely safer.
  5. There was a separate thread for window roller solutions that concluded with a 3D print solution. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/146028-69-conv-quarter-window-frame-bushing-roller/ That thread was what made me think to start this one. If folks have parts they think would be good to print, post it here. I’m happy to see if i can help. I also have a printer and if someone has a model and wants parts printed I’d be happy to give it a try.
  6. I love the 3D print solution here. Reading this made me start a thread on 3D printing. If these models are shareable and not proprietary, I’m looking for a place we can upload them together. Also, if others need these parts, I have a printer and would be happy to print them for folks that might want them.
  7. One disadvantage of doing tank parts in plastic is danger of breakage in case of collision. I think ductile steel with rubber connections is going to behave much better in that case.
  8. Love the idea, but I’ve never printed anything that I would want to show on the outside of the car.
  9. Do you mean the neck inside the trunk? Would that actually line up with the gas tank opening?
  10. Did you create this badge in CAD and then have it manufactured?
  11. Sorry I meant "I can't sell any of my work". I'll go edit the post...
  12. Those are awesome! Did you do that seat from scratch? The Wheel looks fantastic, I want to design my own console for the car, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the complex geometry of the humps/seat and dash into the model to build on...
  13. I've got a hobbyist license for Autodesk Fusion360. Its fantastic. Cross-platform (I'm using it on a Mac) and really quite intuitive considering its complexity. I can't sell any of my work from it based on the license, but I don't need to really. I do enjoy designing things in it though. I done enough now I'm "dangerous". LOL. I think they want it to be a solid works competitor, but I don't think it's achieved that goal yet - although it's not been out all that long. I can't say enough good about it.
  14. Yes. Obviously, parts printed would be some sort of printable plastic material. But if someone needs a part cut in metal, a little CAD work can provide a model that can be cut at a vendor like protolabs.com
  15. Anyone interested in starting a 3D printing thread? I've got a decent printer at home, and since I got it I have taught myself some CAD. I think it would be nice to have a library of parts for the mustang, and those of us that can make them, can print stuff in our spare time, and provide to other users. I recently wanted a box to contain a fuel-gauge calibration device, and I created this in about an hours worth of CAD and then some longer hours printing: It's not perfect, but it allowed me to use an existing bolt to hold down the device, and store the wires/connections in the trunk. Here it is installed: It seems to me there is a need for 3D printing stuff for ourselves, and as we design the parts we can perhaps keep a library of them somewhere, and if people need one or several, those of us with time and printers can help out. What do you all think? Jay
  16. They come back perfect, and with a documented wire-list specifically for your car. Its a Waaaay better deal than replacing all the wiring IMHO.
  17. That's a really interesting fix! Glad it solved the problem for you, but I'm still a little puzzled at how it works. The pin you refer to that is supposed to engage in the notch, looks like it's barely only engaged by a half diameter of the pin. It's almost like the turn signal switch has placed that pin at the wrong radio from the center of the steering column - a little bit too large of a diameter. It looks like your 3D print has effectively lengthened the slot, so the pin can settle down properly in there. All that kind of makes me wonder if your switch is original, and is it the right size. These steering wheel and turning signal mechanisms though... they are cheap and clunky - that's for sure. I sure like you adaptation to give that pin a home - easily done. You should keep an eye on that thing for wear.. Not sure what material you used, but it is all pretty tough and slick, but It could be that the metal will wear it down. It's always easy to drop in a replacement I guess.... Just requires eom disassembly. Congrats on a useful fix, and post back here with any updates. Great adaptation!
  18. well, yes, and no. The original one that was always wrong has been replaced by a cheap chinese repro which is always wrong. Don't get me wrong, when you fill the tank it says "way full"... and it stays there until it starts to go down, which is quick, and then it says empty for a a couple of days worth of driving before it goes out. Both were kinda the same, but never right. I'm kinda anal, and I feel, like when I fill the tank, it should point to the F, and then juuuuuust before i am completely out of gas it should point to the E. I know that's being kinda picky, but I'm actually trying to get it to behave correctly. SO, I like this stupid-expensive calibration tool, which makes it behave how I feel it should - even though I probably oughta fill the tank as soon as it goes below half-full like my dad always said....
  19. Those are some great points of feedback - thank you both. I had a look around and thought about it some while waiting on the feedback, and as you guys say, the only way I could really do it without cutting into the harness is to buy another wire with matching bullets connectors, and clip the ends of it to patch it in. If I can find some bullet connectors that work at the sender, I think i am leaning to put the meter match in the trunk. It turns out I have power in the truck already because I put an amp in the trunk. I can grab a good ground from a screw holding the trunk down. Then, I just need to either snip the harness with the sender lead, or create a pigtail with the same connector as the sender. This gives me easy access to the device, and a simple install I think. If anyone knows where i could find matching male and female bullet connectors for cheap I would appreciate the tip. Jay
  20. Howdy ya’ll. I finally bought a Tanks Inc. “MeterMatch” to improve my gas gauge readings. So I’m ready to put this guy in but I’m trying to figure the best place to put it. I am a little reticent to cut the original harness, but I’ve got to be able to read the ohms from the sender. I’m also wanting to NOT work under the freaking dash. So what I’m really looking for is best place to tap into the readings from the gauge, and have a local spot to hold the little module in place. Advice, suggestions? Midlife? Anyone?
  21. Light smoke might also mean leaking head gasket. I'd double check oil and coolant to be sure the coolant isn't low, and theres no water in the oilpan. This possiblity though is down the road from all the other advice....
  22. Wow! A real one. That's cool that someone took the concept and made a bullet-proof one.
  23. I resemble that. These cars are very strangely attractive to engineers I can tell you
  24. Ive got a CAD tool, and some limited self-taught skills. The hard part here is getting the existing shape right into the CAD to start from. I did see a video on how to use an iphone ot build a 3D mesh though. Would be fun to build this thing in CAD and have one fabbed. It would have to be forged from pot metal and chromed/polished. Can't imagine that would be easy tor cheap to get from a vendor. As usual the trouble with these things is there isn't much of a market. I'm interested in tinkering with it perhaps...
  25. Good luck! My personal experience is that if you buy the repops and and fuss with them long enough - you will inadvertently lower your standards and say something along the lines of “well the shiny chrome makes up for the shitty fit”.
  • Create New...