RogerC

I believe it's part of the steering column support at the pedal support. Pic is 69, 70 probably similar.

Before I parked my 69 with a fresh 351C, I could drive around town for maybe a half hour then it would start running rough and vapor lock. I later figured out I had a windsor thermostat instead of the cleveland specific one. The engine would get too hot and cause vapor lock. It did run better at highway speeds but only because enough airflow was passing through. These are great engines if built right, unfortunately the parts stores contributed to this issue, especially in the past, due to supplying windsor thermostats for clevelands.

I have new Scott Drake's, will be good to know if there's a problem.

Definitely had some water in it. My engine sat untouched & un-run since the early 90s and didn't have much at all in the heads. It did have some water get into a couple of the cylinders I think after I removed the heads. It also sat in the driveway under a tarp the whole time. Just had the heads done and working on a plan for what I want done on the block.

I use KBS products. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/

The outer wheelhouse is set 2" outboard. I left a flange of the original quarter to attach the new one to, also bent that flange out at the top to meet the new one better. I pie cut and bent the new quarter in to have a little bulge to it instead of it flattening out. You'll notice the fore & aft upper corners were drawn in as a result. I'll continue working it and if it don't turn out right I'll have to cut it off and start over. When its right I'll do the left.

Heads Picked up an Offenhauser dual plane. I had some recommended machining done, had it cleaned. Painted the heads and intake with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint. I may use this instead of the single plane intake. Tacked the RH quarter on, has a subtle 2" bumpout.

Got my heads back on Tuesday along with an Offenhauser dual plane intake I had cleaned up. The heads were reworked with new valves, springs, guides and milled for roller rocker studs. Last weekend I started stripping the rest of the engine which was still in the car. Today I pulled the engine and finished stripping it. The old cam and lifters have virtually no wear but I'm replacing it with a roller cam. The engine only has a few thousand miles on it but it hasn't run in over 30 years. The 2 & 4 cylinders had gotten some water in them somehow and the rings were stuck. I soaked them with PB Blaster and let it set for the week. Today I was able to rotate the crank. I pulled the pistons, there's a significant surface rust in 2 & 4 but the pistons came right out. I was hoping not to have to bore the cylinders but after removing the pistons I saw they were knurled. I figure with the rust clean up I may have to go a minimal overbore. I'll be replacing the pistons anyhow, #6 has a broken ring groove, there was nothing wrong with the cylinder though. Several rod bearings had some scratches but the rod journals on the crank looked ok. I think next I'll drop off my crank and have it cleaned, inspected dimensionally and entertain any recommended improvements.

Yup, that's a cleveland. Thermostat in the block not on the intake.

Can you post a shot of the engine from the front? That looks like a 351C valve cover in the 1st pic. If it is a 351C and you put a thermostat in it for a 351W, that's your problem.

Well, still here. So did I lose or are we all winners?

Hey Ed, That's what this thread is about I created after the previous site shutdown. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/220009-bandwidth-issue/

I'll pick the 16th only because it's on a Saturday.

Modified cowl panel. Tacked 1/8 rod around perimeter on the bottom, cut away the slots, tacked 1/4-20 studs on the bottom side, welded shut washer nozzle mount holes, drilled new washer nozzle holes on top, sanded, skim coat of bondo, sanded smooth, primed, wet sanded, primed again. It'll get aluminum or SS mesh and the studs trimmed if too long. I have 3 more of these if it doesn't workout.

Got a new complete wiring harness (American Autowire) for when I'm ready to install. Also got a Nu-Relics electric window kit. It was about $100 cheaper from MCB parts (chevy) than CJPP for the same kit. The machine shop is still working on my heads. I checked in last week and since mine wasn't a big priority they were working other jobs first. I expect them to be done next week.