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barnett468 last won the day on April 13

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About barnett468

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  1. Nope we installed literally hundreds of them and had left the keys on for several minutes on several of them and none of them melted. We only had one melt and that was because the key was left on overnight, so as I mentioned, they are nearly fail proof, plus if it fails, you are not out $300.00, so it seems like a no brainer to me.
  2. A stock distributor with the proper advance curve and a pertronix I is nearly fail proof providing the dist gear is compatible with your cam.
  3. well since you are willing to order a cap, why don't you just order the correct wires instead?
  4. The summit carb does not have much adjustability so i would hesitate to use it but i have had many like it. they are cast in china but machined in the us. they used to sell rebuilt ones for around $100.00 less than the retail price and these are better than the new ones. the base model holley carbs like the street avengers etc are not great, so i would avoid those for sure. the holley 4150 and 4160 carbs with the adjustable floats are far better.
  5. quick fuel carbs are the best bang for the buck, and an annular booster carb will typically provide a bit better throttle response. vacuum secondary carbs are far more street friendly, especially with auto trannies. 600 to 650 is a good range, and keep in mind that the secondary opening timinig is adjustable, so a 650 can sort of be detuned to a 600 cfm etc. what is the compression?
  6. ok, this is quite simple. ecklers says they must be balanced using the lugs, NOT the center of the wheel. https://www.ecklers.com/corvette/corvette-vintage-wheel-works-v45-17x9-2-piece-wheel-1968-1982-25-348169-1.html This "should" be easy to confirm by simply calling vintage wheel works and asking their tech department at (714) 278-1600 If they do need to be balanced by the lugs, you can have the wheels mounted by the lugs then have them checked for balance. If they are just a little bit out of balance, look at the edge of the rim (not the tire) while the wheel is spinning and see if it is true or not. If the wheel is true, have the tires removed and spin up the wheels only. This will tell you for certain exactly how much the wheels are out of balance and how much the tires are out of balance. If the wheels are out of balance by very much or untrue, simply call VWW and tell them and see what they say.
  7. He means into the intake valley between the intake runners, not in the intake runners.
  8. It will work the same except it will be exposed to a lot more oil even with a baffl;e, so you might also need to add an oil catch can.
  9. Any piston will work as long as the cam lift is less than around .600", but verify the exact number to be certain.
  10. If you are using the correct oil then the grinding is 99% most likely from bad synchros. .
  11. you will definitely be using a different intake on either a 331 or 347. your headers need to be larger than 1 1/2" tubes. nothing wrong with a non roller block, just buy link bar lifters. you can stroke the 351 to 410.
  12. That cam would work fine in a 347 with 170 or 190 heads, but perhaps we should start from scratch and re-evaluate what you want the engine to do in case your goals have changed.
  13. Yes, the reliability factor is very high now with the only issues typically coming from poor machine work or spinning the engine to 8,000 rpm, lol. I will add that I prefer MAHLE pistons for 347's because they pull out of the bottom of the bore less far than most others. If you might use the heads later on a bigger engine, and want big power out of your 347, I would use one of the 11r 190 cc trick flow heads if you are on a budget. Scorpion roller rockers. Howards thick wall push rod tubes. Morel lifters.
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