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barnett468 last won the day on March 29

barnett468 had the most liked content!

About barnett468

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 05/10/1956
  1. xlnt. i would rotate the torque converter 2 full turns while pushing on it lightly to make sure it is still properly seated in the trans then rotate it so the studs are approximately in the same position the holes in the flex plate are. make sure you have the converter drain plug lined up with the drain plug access hole in the flywheel. once the engine is around 1" away from the trans, check the converter stud alignment again. you can use a screw driver to rotate it a little if you can't get your finger in there but there are sharp edges so be careful. file or sand any burs on the big steel alignment pins on the back of the block then put a little grease on them so they go into the trans easily. the trans or engine may need to be rotated slightly to get the pins to align. rotating either a little is not hard to do. be very careful when turning the valve on the hoist to lower the engine as it can be very easy to turn it too much which can cause the engine to drop very quickly. one thing i do when tightening the valve is to tighten it just enough to keep the engine from lowering. if you close the valve pretty hard, it can be hard to open, and when you try to open it, it can suddenly snap open and open farther than you wanted to which is when the engine can drop quickly. with the trans jacked up close to the bottom of the trans tunnel, the engine mounts will be above the mounts on the body by maybe 1" after you bolt the trans to the engine. once you get to this point, you can lift the headers from the engine bay and see if you can install them if you want. this may make it slightly easier than trying to install them after the engine is all the way down. use the tilt bar on the hoist to tilt the engine to the same angle as the trans. i look at the gap from the top and from under the car to get it as close as i can.
  2. i was not referring to your method. you are missing my point entirely but i may have misunderstood what you were trying to say.
  3. There was no need to because the op is asking for installation info because he does not know what is best and has no idea what works, therefore, I don't understand how telling him to do what works is going to help him because he obviously has no idea what that is, otherwise I don't think he would be here asking what is best.
  4. The op has no idea what works so he is not familiar with any of the methods and personally has no past proven methods to base a decision on.
  5. I have been installing engines with the trans in the car for nearly 45 years and its a piece of cake for me to do it with an auto trans with the headers in the engine compartment. I have also installed some engines with auto trannies and 4 speeds attached and I have no idea why some people prefer to jack the car way up to remove a trans all by themselves that is already in the car just to reinstall it on an engine all by themselves adding a couple hundred extra pounds to the lifting weight then try to install that heavy, cumbersome assembly all by themselves.
  6. Export brace reinforcement plate?

    No, especially if you are not racing it. If plan on racing it, I would consider installing the weld in shock tower pieces and a rally bar and sub frame connectors.
  7. Xlnt it should be a piece of cake.
  8. yes, those bolts will work fine unless the threads in your block don't start until 1/4" or more below the surface. i rarely use antiseize. it's a great product but a bit too slippery in some cases which can cause the bolts/nuts to loosen some after time. i often use a little wheel bearing grease or similar instead on most of the external nuts and bolts. sometimes it is easier to use a 1/4" drive on the header bolts to get them close to tight and sometimes a wobble extension comes in handy and maybe a 12 point combination wrench.
  9. Headers for my 5.0 build.

    2 1/4" with straight thru mufflers and a cross over tube is plenty big enough for your engine and will not choke it at all. every exhaust system i have installed has had to be bent a little, so don't plan on getting away without having to go to a muffler shop fot some fine tuning of the bends etc.
  10. Yes, it was on yours. It will make it a zillion times easier to install the headers etc. It really is incredibly easy this way. Just plan on 4 hours and a 6 pack or so at a slow leisurely pace then you're done with the hard part hopefully forever. I also install the motor mounts on the engine before installing it but place them on the body first to make sure they go over the mounts because you can't trust aftermarket parts as much these days. I also sometimes raise the back of the car around 12 inches from its static position. I always jack the trans up until it almost hits the body.
  11. I would remove those valve covers. Again, I put the headers in first, because unless you like to gamble and possibly loose, it is completely pointless to install the headers in hopes that they will clear the shock towers and/or the trans if in fact they do not, because at that point you are doing the job twice. If you do it my way you will only do it once guaranteed which means you will always be a winner. .
  12. keep it simple. put towels on the inner fenders if they are nice install the headers. you can use safety wire to hang them off the shock towers if needed to get them close to the correct position. you may need to tie or block the rear of them up also. tap every exhaust bolt hole. make sure all the header bolts screw in easily by hand. drop engine in using a tilt bar if possible. i use remflex exhaust gaskets but in some cases the soft aluminum ones are a good option. paper ones are crap.
  13. Body tag question

    it is open to the public for free. it is the biggest car show on the west coast. it is not a car club.