Jump to content

barnett468

Members
  • Content count

    3,157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    49

barnett468 last won the day on November 21

barnett468 had the most liked content!

About barnett468

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 05/10/1956

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. barnett468

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    i hope you re-balanced it.
  2. barnett468

    Dynacorn Rant

    Happens on some of the factory welds also, so at least in this regard, they are made "factory correct", lol.
  3. Oetiker makes several types of pinch clamps plus a screw type clamp, so to simply say "I use Oetiker clamps" doesn't help people to understand exactly what type one is using.
  4. I used that image merely as one of several different styles of band clamps that are available as opposed to the cheap looking hardware store worm clamps. I have never seen anyone use the type of clamp I posted on the exhaust.
  5. barnett468

    Horn trouble shooting

    He's alive!
  6. You could also use some fancy band clamps too if you don't like the look of the tower clamps or hardware store type worn clamps and clock the clamp so the screw is on the bottom side. I use band clamps frequently, even on fuel lines unless I am doing a stock, show type build.
  7. Here's another possible option. These were used on 69/70 BOSS 302's.
  8. barnett468

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    Good point and I meant that i had to tighten the f out of them even when using the washer. I didn't do that without the washer.
  9. Yeah but I doubt they are happy that you put their steering wheels on the "wrong" side.
  10. Uh...looks like we got a yank vs an ozzie thing brewin. I better get the popcorn out.
  11. barnett468

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    that's a good trick as well. i have had to tighten the fk out of some of those sob's to get them to stop leaking.
  12. barnett468

    Engine is running now!

    on new engines i set it before i start it and also fill the fuel bowls with gas. i first mark the end of the pointer then the damper with white out where i want the timing to be. i then remove all the plug wires except for number 1. then i connect the timing light and jump the solenoid to see where the timing is. with the engine off, i then rotate the distributor to get the timing closer so i don't have to keep spinning the engine while trying to set it. once it is set, it is good enough to start. after starting i run the engine up to around 2200 rpm and maintain that rpm for a few minutes. i then try rotating the distributor until it makes the most rpm. this reduces the chance that it will get hot during break in. then i reset the rpm to around 2200 and let it run for 20 minutes.
  13. barnett468

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    exactly where is it leaking? double inverted flare on stainless is fine . i have used those lines a bazillion times but they sometimes need to be tightened then loosened slightly then tightened etc several times before they seat. grease on the threads and sealing surfaces also helps during this process. it sometimes helps to use a special "conical" sealing washer on them.
  14. barnett468

    Engine is running now!

    ah, ok, since it's not new it's not a big deal. why do you have to keep setting the timing every time you get it running?
  15. barnett468

    Engine is running now!

    I sure hope you have a roller cam. I always set the timing first.
×