j69302

Those 58 cents are going to be the most expensive 58 cents you ever spent the second your car catches fire and burns to the ground. Here is a better way, using actual electrical components and not cotter pins... It might cost 4x the price at a couple of bucks. Bought these fuse holders at radio shack, broke one end off, put a wire terminal on it. Having just seen midlife's link, I would just go with that instead.

This is like asking someone else what your favorite color is. Having said that, How loud do you want it? If you want it loud, go with flowmasters. If you want it mellow at idle/cruise, but loud when you step on it, go with dynamax uper turbos. I personally don't like magnaflow. they are not very clean sounding to me.

I dont see how a hotter thermostat made your header gasket blow. All a thermostat does is control the MINIMUM operating temperature. It has NO EFFECT on reducing or increasing the chances of overheating, assuming it is opening when it should...Obviously, a failed closed thermostat will cause a problem. But one that opens at the higher end of a completly acceptable operating limit will not hurt anything. I went from a 160 to a 195, and a 195 runs so much better.. with the 160, my car ALWAYS smelled like gas, even though the carb is tuned very well. With the 195 in, I was clearly getting more complete combustion. And it did NOT make my car run any HOTTER, other than the minimum temperature of course. You will find that going from a 160 to a 195 will: 1) improve throttle response 2) burn cleaner, and more completely 3) prevent sludge by insuring oil temperature is hot enough to boil out the vapor and vent through the PCV system Big problem with running anything below 180* thermostat. The engine MUST get the oil temperature above boiling point of water. Running a low thermostat prevents this from happening, and WILL create SLUDGE. 4) Increase in gas mileage, also see #2. Notice that all the cars these days run at around 210 minimum? It's because it is much more efficient and cleaner. If you car over heats with a 160, it will still over heat with a 195, just all the same as it would over heat without a thermostat at all, and likewaise, if your car didn't over heat with a 160, it will not over heat with a 195, or with none at all. Original Ford Spec was 195.

I had a perfectly good Interstate battery that I left on the garage floor over night while I cleaned up and replaced my battery tray. Next day, it was dead. Wen't from 12.5 volts to low 10's. It would take a jump, start, and run, but would never charge. Each time I shut it off, it needed another jump an eventually it came to the point where it wouldn't jump at all even with a good 14+ volts from the jumping vehicle. In the aviation world, we are told not to put batteries on the ground. Must be on a bench, prefferrably wooden. Also can't mix tools from one type of battery, to another, example, using tools on a nicad battery then using the same tools on a lead acid. I had to replace that battery.

I did not install my antenna when I replaced my fenders. It looks MUCH better... Plus I don't have a radio anyways and it died, and I never replaced it, cause you can't hear it anyways ;)... If I ever change my mind and replace the radio, I would just use my phone and a mp3 player hooked to the radio. But if I had a R code, and an original antenna, I would certainly install the antenna weather it was hooked up to a radio or not.

You dont need to buy a new brake pedal. You can use the new manual brake PAD as a template to trim your existing brake pedal. This can be done with a hack saw, or cut off wheels if you have those. Don't waste 150 bucks.

If you are using a diaphragm type clutch, YOU DO NOT WANT THE SPRING. You will find it extremely hard to push the pedal with the spring there. As for what you need, is just the clutch pedal and trim or replace you automatic brake pedal, pedal pads, and you should go ahead and do the roller bearing conversion that modern driveline sells as well. I bought the entire kit from Modern Driveline, they specifically told me not to use the spring. You also do not need a clutch pedal stop. With the clutch properly adjusted, you won't be over extending it, but I have seen people make one anyways. EDIT If I remember correctly, in order to instal their cable clutch bracket onto the clutch pedal, you have to cut off the return spring arm anyways.

Its a matter of buying the kit, recommend buying the big block kit even if you don't have one, as it is lower profile and can be easily raised vs nearly impossible to lower the high profile, small block shaker base. Then its a matter of, Buying a new hood, or cutting and patching the holes in your existing hood. Should be pretty straight forward and easy as long as you don't have aftermarket engine mounts that are not stock height, or hi-rise intake manifold, or aftermarket transmission crossmembers that drop it down (Say for like a TKO600 or T-56), causing an odd air cleaner angle. Or a larger than stock distributor/cap for aircleaner base clearance. I considered it, and decided against it For several reasons. You would have to fill the holes for the bolt on scoop, or buy a new hood altogether, as the shaker scoop is smaller footprint than the bolt on scoop. I have aftermarket aircleaners/engine mounts/etc that might affect how the shaker scoop sits. Reproduction scoop doesnt look that great. I really like the turn signals in the scoop and didn't want to loose them. Considered trying to fit them onto a shaker scoop. Much simpler and cheaper to just cut a hole in the hood and make the non functional scoop into being functional,and making or fitting an aircleaner base to seal off the underside of the opening, even if your hood is already painted, this can easily be done without ruining the paint with Air nibblers, some care, some hand filing, and hand paint touch up.

I would say go with the Maiers. As you can see in the picture, they don't hang down any lower then the front frame rails already do. They spread the load out well beyond the subframes, into the ACTUAL frame rails. Besides, your exhaust is probably already below the point at which these would be. I have the Maiers and they fit great and they definitely spready the load. If I put a jack under my right front, it will pull the right rear tire off the ground by the time I get it high enough to put a jack stand under it. This is not my car, just a picture I found on the web.

I had to trim mine. Mine was still pretty soft and pliable. I bought a reproduction heater box, and it was about the same as my original, so I just trimmed my original rubber seal, lubed, it, reinstalled it. The problem is that instead of the rubber seal being just slightly larger then the opening, its way bigger. I don't see how lubing it is ever going to work cause once you move it one direction, and try to move it back, the rubber has to roll under itself in the opposite direction and it is just too tight of a fit to do so.. I have a feeling these were like that new.

I found the best thing to do is carefully trim it until it fits perfectly. I bought a reproduction heather box, and found that it had the same problem. So I sent it back and just trimmed mine.

Here is the gear calculator. Also has a speedometer calculator, calibrated for 1000 RPMs per mile. Only change the values in yellow highlighted cells. A cell of any other color contains a formula, and if you type into it, the formula will be gone. I did not make this, I found it on a forum some where, and modified it to compare multiple wheel/tire, transmission and rear end combinations. GearCalculator.zip

When I get off work Ill try to upload a spreadsheet for comparing different gearing.. You can't just ask whats a good gear. It's much more complicated than that. I found the spreadsheet on one of these forumsa while ago, I do not remember who made it. But I copy and pasted so you can compare 3 different transmissions/gearing. It takes into account tire size and everything, shift points, You will want to use this spread sheet to get you "cruise MPH" to match your engines intended "cruise range". My opinion is that the standard 5th gear TKO has WAAAAY too much spread in between 4th gear and 5th. Using that spreadsheet, If you use a rear end ratio to try and get a standard 5th gear to my desired RPM range for cruise, then 1-4th gear become too low. I have 245/60/15 tires and a 2.79 rear end right now. 80mph is 1800 rpms, 60mph is about 1500. If I had the road race gearing, i would leave my rear end where its at. I am considering a 3.25. I certainly would not go any higher than a 3.50. It makes the lower gears pretty much useless in my opionion. I can start no problems in second, a little slippage in third. The TKO 1st-4th gearing is already fairly low in my opionion. But my logic is for cruising, not running through the gears as fast as I can. My end goal is to get RPMs at 80mph around 2200 In 5th.

Make it easy on yourself, use a kit. With modern driveline, there is absolutely ZERO guess work. I bought the complete kit from Modern Driveline, came with literally every nut and bolt - I cannot think of anything that I had to buy seperate. I went with the cable clutch setup, talk to Bruce at Modern Driveline. Your headers may work just fine with their cable clutch. I have had it since End of 2008, haven't done a thing to it since 100 miles after installing it. The cable will stretch a little, but that is normal. Hasn't stretched or been adjusted since I last adjusted it in 2008, and there are no signs of heat damage so I have zero concern with it. But I do have headers that fit well with it. So you will need to ask about them if the only reason you were going to do hydraulic is because of your headers. Although not needed, I highly, highly, recommend a set of lowered engine mounts, such as Ron Morris. Not needed, but will make installation and final driveline angle much better and easier. Also, when you mount your transmission to the cross member, you can shim it up about 1/2-3/4 inch. I made shims out of 1/8 inch steel plates and shimmed it until I had 1-2 thread protruding from the locknuts on the trans mount. If you get one of Modern Drivelines modified rounded case, you can shim it up even more and really dial in your driveline angle. One thing I wish I had paid more attention to before I bought, was gearing. You will want to compare the .84 RR (road race) 5th gear vs the standard .63(.67?) 5th gear. I really really wish I had gone with the road race gearing instead. However, with a 393 stroker, I figure it will be able to push right through it with ease, I have a mild 302.

I would check the wiring. Make sure you have the correct polarity at the gauge, and wiring in general. That is behaving the opposite of how it is supposed to behave.