69RavenConv

My vision:
A nice B9, in near concours condition, candy apple red, costing $20k. 
 
Hey!  I can dream, can't I???

That's a cool pic Brian. Ya know, I've read your very knowledgeable posts for years and still never pictured you on a drag strip. (Head-slap) dude's got a 428! 

I've had my Mach 1 since April of 77.  It sat for years at a time and just became that much cooler to own.  When I did have it running it wasn't a great driver until I upgraded to a rack-n-pinion about six years ago.  Now I look forward to every minute driving it.  Just wish it had air conditioning this time of year.  Oh, I did manage to drive it to lunch today to meet an old friend that hadn't seen the car in 20 years.  She was blow away.
Moral of the story is that finally going restomod brought back the thrill of driving the old beast.  
Kyle T  
 

That's very close to mine. Back when I started out a long time ago, I thought I'd keep it all original. Even bought some bias ply tires. Then I figured a plain-jane  F-code was boring, so I went with some period correct mods - stuff you could have done back in the early 70's. I had a set of vintage Ansen Sprints, an Edelbrock F4-B intake,  and even a vintage Holley 600. 
Then I added some invisible modern stuff - Pertronix and headlight relays, LEDs for all the interior and dash lights. Mini-starter. Used a retro roller cam just to up the cost of the engine rebuild :)
Now that I've driven it for a few years, disk brakes and a T5 on are on the list to make it more fun on the road.
Never used the bias ply tires. They're dry rotting away in my shop with, like, 100 miles wear on them :)
 

My vision ?  Running in the mid 8's in the 8th mile.   Not impossible or unrealistic but probably unlikely.  Brian 

I have a case of them LOL. if you need some let me know,  I'll send them out for free. 

Check out this recent thread.
 

Hose for the 71 came in today, we have a winner. Threads on block and hose are correct 
left hose- 69
center hose- new 71 repop
right hose- factory 70
part number on bag from oreilys

Here's mine built Feb 24th and is now enjoying Western Australia.

Got all the interior color done. Still have clear to do This afternoon but it looks good. The color is F8 green. It’s a 2019 dodge color. The first picture doesn’t do it justice due to being in the shade and no clear on it. You can see the metal flake and more of the actual color in the last picture. 

First thing do do is measure the actual oil pressure with a real mechanic's gauge (even one from Harbor Freight). If your oil pressure is truly low, stop driving and fix it.
If oil pressure is ok (and it sounds like maybe it is since you're driving it around) check your gauge and sender. The gauges on these cars are notoriously untrustworthy, and often old age and previous owners make them worse. There are some easy ways to test, you can google this and other Mustang sites for threads.
Do the gas and temperature gauges work ok?

Gas, temperature, and oil pressure all work off the same voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Since only the oil gauge is malfunctioning, it's probably not the cluster.
With the key on, if you unplug the wire at the sender and momentarily ground the plug to the engine block, the oil pressure gauge should peg to the H side. Only do this for a moment, don't leave it grounded very long!! If the gauge moves ok, you might need a new sender.
If it doesn't move ok, it might be your gauge or wiring that's bad 
Don't know why it would fog, unless something's getting hot? Stuff getting hot is never good.

Just checked on my 69 GT convert and it was built on June 6th, but it wasn't released until June 11th, 51 years ago today.  Cool.

Just wanted to let every one know that I installed the carb on my Mustang about two weeks ago.  It fired right up on fast idle.  Once warm I adjusted the idle screws to get a smooth idle and drove it.  No problems.  Easy.   I want to thank Daytona Parts Company for the carb kit and more importantly Tim at Daytona Parts for all the tech help he provided to me before and during the rebuild process.   I also want to mention that I used a new float in this rebuild from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  Never had to call them, but the float fit right and seems to be working.  Hopefully it will end the problem I had with the old float taking on gas and screwing up the float level.    I have no interest in these business just hope that some one, some day finds this thread helpful.  

He's afraid of Mustangs.

73 Hater!

If it were me, I would get rid of the original gauge constant voltage regulator, and replace it with a modern electronic one. The old ones try to provide around 5v by pulsing 12v on about 42% of the time and off about 58% of the time. Since the gauges are dampened it doesn't affect the readings. The new electronic regulators give a rock solid 5v.
Just for some background information; Ford intentionally developed gauges that take time to react- they call this dampening. This is so the gauge doesn't bounce all over when you take a curve or do a jump like the General Lee. All the gauges are reportedly the same except for the scale. Even though the oil sender measures pressure and the water sender measures temperature, and the fuel measures fluid level, all three sensors are just variable resistors that read from 78 ohms on Low to 10 ohms on Hi. The gauges have high and low adjustment screws, and an internet search turned up this information- hopefully it is accurate. What he is saying below is that the top screw adjusts the low end of the scale and the bottom screw adjusts the high end of the scale. Within some (unknown) "range" they are all adjustable.
2007 jonsee on allfordmustangs
Yes there are two adjustments on the back of the three gauges, oil, temp, and fuel - the adjustment on the top is to adjust the zero at 70 -73 ohms and the bottom adjustment is to adjust the 100% reading (better known as the span) at 10 ohms - with 5 -6 volt supply, an increase in resistance decreases current flow through the gauge (better known as indicator) which decreases the reading and a decrease in resistance, increases current flow through the gauge increasing the reading.

Local newspaper website
https://www.daytondailynews.com/news/local/legendary-tipp-city-designer-iconic-ford-mustang-dies/0OuXoHTQ2nYZvRJnQ1qYzI/

Actually that is a good idea; just make sure to use new ones, not used :)

Nothing will surprise me after this one. Cut the Upolstrey off the seat to start the process of recovering it and bam! Someone used diapers to cover the springs and for the padding. Fairly new ones at that due to the peel and stick. 

It was the old saying there's no replacement for displacement. But it is untrue these days when these shit 4 cylinders with 30 turbos blow away anything with cubic inches.
But what I tell all these kids in rice cars is: 
Your car will never sound tough 
and the most its worth is what its worth right this minute.

It just occurred to me that you have 868 cubic inches sitting in your garage :)
When I grow up I want to have a garage just like yours. 

Have not been on for a while but the 428 Mach 1 is running and i have a couple of little issues to fix.
Took out the 4.30 Detroit Locker and put in a highway friendly 3:1 Traction Lock and the car is really driveable now.
I can only polish and detail the cars so many times.
So here they are in the garage just waiting.

You may want to talk to a lawyer just to see if you have any recourse with the facility. I'm sure you signed an agreement that says "the owner of the facility assumes no liability" but there is such a thing as "reasonable expectations". It is reasonable to expect a storage facility to be secure against fire and theft, etc.

You may want to talk to a lawyer just to see if you have any recourse with the facility. I'm sure you signed an agreement that says "the owner of the facility assumes no liability" but there is such a thing as "reasonable expectations". It is reasonable to expect a storage facility to be secure against fire and theft, etc.