aslanefe

Corrosion, wear and tear. You can sand the contacts etc and make it serviceable again.

What Jimlay posted is 71-73 switch. But the repro 71-73 switch I bought did not last. You can open your original 1970 switch and usually repair/clean it and it will last longer.

Website getting locked due to exceeding bandwidth might have deterred some folks.

Do you happen to have the left side bracket also? If Ed does not want it, I can use both sides for a conversion from 6 to 8 cylinder.

Are you using your original Ford pump or did you install a Saginaw pump?

As far as I know, the valve is supported by the hoses; no hard attachments. Brand shouldn't matter if inlet and outlet diameters match to the hose; all it does is close the hot coolant to heater core when AC is on.

Heater hoses go from the heater core to engine. So, on the engine side all you would need are hoses and clamps; if your vacuum activated cut off valve is not working, then a new valve. The hose from heater core to valve is an S shaped hose you have to get from a Mustang parts vendor; other hoses are cut to length hoses you can get from any parts store.

Spoke too soon I guess. :(

I do not have any at the moment. Will print some in a few weeks when I have the printer set up if you can wait.

Sorry, I do not have a 69 car with factory parking brake warning light. I bet Midlife knows where the bullet connector is attached to.

Not sure how they were originally wired, but I connect them to brake master cylinder switch wire in parallel on the inside of the firewall. If the master cylinder goes bad or if the parking brake is engaged, the "Brake" light in instrument cluster comes on.

Looks like Ben made some progress; no bots lately.

I have been using that gas cap lock on one of my cars for years, it stopped people from playing with my gas cap, trying to steal it etc.

Looks like we need a mod in Russia.

That is great news Ben.