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aslanefe

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aslanefe last won the day on October 26

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About aslanefe

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    : Mid GA

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  1. That is a 70 wheel, I will take it. How much do you want me to send you? My zip is 31088.
  2. Did you try cleaning the contacts on bulb holders and bending the contacts on them a little bit to press more on the board? You can also clean the copper pads on PCB with fine scotch brite to remove oxidation.
  3. When I installed Holley Sniper on my 302 last year, I installed the Holley supplied temp sender on the back of the intake and kept the factory sensor for dash in stock location. Checked the Holley temp sender by reading the temp of intake where the sensor is mounted with IR temp sensor and found Holley sender to be reading low. So I replaced the Holley supplied sender with a Delphi TS10075 and the readings on Holley display matched real close to my IR readings at the manifold by the sender. There was a difference in temp readings of front of the manifold (where factory sender is installed) and back of it (where Holley sender is installed) with the IR temp sensor, but don't remember the difference being as much as you have.
  4. Can you change the temp setting in EFI to 140 degrees?
  5. I use a digital angle gague Like this, a piece of square tubing that fits between ends of upper and lower ball joints, a tape measure and vinyl tiles to do alignment.
  6. @Mach1 Driver As far as I know, the holes on passenger side on 351W is not offset. One short bolt, one long bolt on each runner. The boss on front of the runners is tall and takes the longer bolts, angle of photo makes it look like holes are offset.
  7. Doesn't the SMD has wider angle? That may be the reason why it does not show pixelated. Also, SMD do not have the optical magnifier.
  8. Or bring the car to me, I will fix/align it for you.
  9. I can't remember the exact max shim out given in the old manuals but it was less than 1/2" difference between front and rear shims. Hopefully someone will post the max shim for you. But, if you ask me, you are wasting your time by going to alignment shops. Put a 1/2" shim under front side as I described before and see the change in wheel fitment in fender opening yourself first. Alignment shop will not do that for you because they do not want the liability. Just put the shim yourself and report back without driving the car; then we can talk about aligning it afterwards.
  10. I was asking for pictures to make sure that my understanding of driver side tower being twisted is correct. If how you took the measurements also tells you that driver side tower is twisted, then don't worry about taking pictures for me. You want the control arms same length on both sides the same on a car with same towers to keep the suspension geometry same on both sides, but you have one tower twisted. Don't worry about adjusting the passenger side UCA too; just put a 1/2 inch shim under front of driver side UCA between the UCA and the tower which would be easy without dismantling the UCA if the bolts are long enough. If you have harbor freight close by, buy 67585. Stack them up to 1/2 inch, loosen the UCA nuts, put those shims saddling the front bolt and tighten the nuts (tape the shims together to make it easy to handle multiple shims). When you put the shim, it will push your wheel out and back, watch out for it hitting the fender opening on top when lowering the car. Have the car aligned as soon as possible (ask for max caster they can put without tire hitting some where, I have a little over 8 degrees of caster on my daily driver 69). When convenient, find a place that can twist the driver side tower back to what passenger side is. Then you can remove the shim and have the car aligned again.
  11. If you did all the suspension work and took all these measurements your self, then you must be mechanically inclined. Take some pictures of how you get the measurements I asked about before adjusting/changing anything so we can validate if my observation/diagnosis is correct.
  12. Can you post a picture of how you took the above measurements? Looks like driver side shock tower is bent inwards on front UCA bolt location and outwards on rear bolt location creating total of 1/2 inches of twist. This will move the left front wheel forward about 1 inch compared to right side when you get caster of both right and left to almost same degree. Temporarily, I would adjust the adjustable UCA 1/2 inches longer on front if you can, if not put 1/2 shim under front. Permenant fix would be to find a place that can twist the tower and get it correct on driver side.
  13. My originals are like Brian's, no washers under the bolts.
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