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aslanefe last won the day on January 28

aslanefe had the most liked content!

About aslanefe

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    v8 powered poster

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    : Mid GA

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  1. I was expecting an online Zoom video conferencing car show.
  2. Here is one, but wants a lot for it.
  3. An other option is to send messages to people selling 1969 Mustang and Cougar parts on eBay and ask them if they have the part you are looking for. By looking at the sellers listed parts or store, you can have a good idea who are parting cars. They may have the part you need but not listed as that is a part with no demand.
  4. Welcome to the forum. You need the retainer/spacer to be able to install the switch, no way around it. You may find them on eBay, someone on the forum may have an extra or you can buy a used one from WCCC when they have them in stock. This is the link for retainer at WCCC. Call them and ask even it shows out of stock.
  5. I think I have seen kits that use original holes, vents and the original control panel (by modifying inside to remove cables and installing switches). If your car was A/C equipped (already have the vents, control panel etc) and you only need the A/C box, I believe vintage air and/or classic auto air has a box that will replace the original; worth checking.
  6. John, Marking the door and W/S are pictures 1 and 2. Mark with reference points every 10-15 inches after you install the screws at the ends of the W/S. Also mark the door perimeter where W/S is going to be, I used red thick sharpie so it is visible for pictures (use thin sharpie for actual work). then remove the W/S screw at the front of the door. Pictures 3 and 4; the masking tape is where you put glue on W/S and door. Dashed lines on W/S and door are 90 degree corners. With W/S screws installed at the aft end of the door, put glue 10-15 inches (between your reference lines you put on W/S and door in pictures 1 and 2). When glue is tacked, start pressing the W/S 90 degree to door 90 degree first, then face 1 (which is the narrower side of the 2 faces), then press the face 2. Getting the 90s on W/S and door to match good is the key. Also, make sure your reference marks on W/S and door match closely while you are joining the W/S to door, if not you will end up with access or be short on W/S when you get to the other end. I use 3M 08008 black W/S glue as in my experience it holds stronger than yellow 3M glue but it is less forgiving if you misalign and have to remove to reposition. Don't mind the old W/S residue on the door, it was hard and going to take too much effort to clean just for pictures.
  7. John I put the glue on both sides of the "90 on w/s" and both sides of "90 on door" where the w/s will be positioned. I follow the directions on 3M "black" w/s glue and let it tack. Glue sticks very good if you follow the directions, you will leave pieces of w/s on the door when you try to remove if you misplace the w/s while installing. That glue is kind of a one shot deal, when done right almost impossible to remove the w/s without tearing pieces; that's why I mark the door, w/s etc before applying the glue. You may want to mask the area on door where w/s will be installed so while you are putting glue on door you do not get it on visible areas of the door as it is kind of a pain to remove the residue from the door. If you can wait a day or two, I think I have a set of door w/s on my spare parts bin; I'll to post you pictures of the glue and where to apply the glue on the door and w/s etc.
  8. @Rcodenewf, it has been a long time since I installed a reproduction w/s (which I assume is what you are using). I looked at a few original doors I have with original w/s on them and on some one end of the w/s is little lifted, some are laying good; lifted ones did not have glue under lifted areas. If your w/s is a good quality (ie soft) then when you glue them, they should confirm. Follow the directions on the glue (ie put it on both sides, wait X minutes for it to get non-tacky etc). Last time I installed door w/s a couple years ago, I re-used the original w/s I removed without damaging it. I used the black 3M which I think holds a little better than the yellow one; do the aft side of the door first, then half of bottom, then other half, then front and glue it in sections. Before gluing, I install it with masking tape and mark the w/s and door in a few places so the ends of w/s matches to the screw holes at both ends of the w/s. Then glue section at a time, and attach per the marks I made on door and w/s. Attach one flat side of the 90 first while butting the 90 degree to the door 90 degree then press the other flat side. If you follow the directions on the glue and if your w/s is soft, glue will confirm the w/s to door. Good luck.
  9. Can you post pictures of the areas that are giving you hard time? The aft and bottom parts of the door has 90 degree angle for weather strip, but the front part of the door is flat.
  10. Hey Danno, did you get a chance to install the 20 for $10 led bulbs in the gauges? If so, how do they work (color and brightness) and do they dim? Thanks
  11. and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  12. Ignition switch connector for 69 and 70 are different.
  13. An other note. You can adjust the wheel about an inch away or close to you. To do that, you leave the clam shell a little lose and install the column. Pull or push the wheel to fit your liking then tighten the clam shell ( you can access to clam shell nuts to tigjten after everything is attached). There is about 1 inch slot on the column housing that clam shell tab moves in giving you about 1 inch of in or put adjustment of wheel.
  14. @RPM You should have retainer/washers on those 2 studs (carriage bolts) sticking out. If you look closely at the picture of one of my cars I posted above ( the one with green circles around the holes you were asking about) you will see the retainer/washers under the nuts on the studs. Those retainer/washers keep the studs in place so they do not fall out while you are installing the column. Without those retainer/washers, you may need 4 hands to install the column.
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