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aslanefe

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aslanefe last won the day on July 29

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About aslanefe

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  1. Holley Part # 12-305 in tank pump/fuel level sender is an other option.
  2. I was not there when he was carving them. Saw the carvings this century when they discovered the caves. :)
  3. I remember seeing “pink flamingo” carvings in prehistoric caves.
  4. https://www.npdlink.com/product/windlace-quarter-pillar/151811/200305 Quarter pillar windlace. Same for coupe, vert, fastback.
  5. Looking good. You will be doing a lot of welding with long runs; be sure to protect your arms, legs, neck etc too while welding (besides your eyes) for UV radiation. I did some tack welds for a short time without a welding mask one weekend (eyes closed of course), when I went to work on Monday people were asking me where I went over the weekend and got sun tan in the middle of winter.
  6. With rusted rockers etc, if you have to pay someone to do the rust repair, bodywork and paint, you will spend more money than what the car is worth after restoration. Installing and tuning Sniper to run good is not cheap and an easy task, I would stay with carb. I installed Sniper on one of my cars, my other cars will be staying with carb. I would drain the old gas and get the car running with fresh gas; later on add a couple gallons of the old gas to almost full tank and use it. Ethanol blend gas is not good for old aluminum parts like your old carb. It eats up aluminum, that may be why carb rebuild is not working. New aluminum parts that gasoline touches (like carbs) have a coating to prevent damage from ethanol. The cars I don’t drive at-least once a week get non-ethanol gas. Headlight cutting might be your headlight switch. Do you have higher output (compared to original) headlights? You can have a non-leaking factory power steering. If it is leaking from hose connections, you need to replace the seats. If it is leaking from every where, you can rebuild it or get Choke to rebuild it for you. I am in Warner Robins, there is a shop here that does rust repair etc but I do not have first hand experience with them as I do my own work.
  7. Are your spacers and wheels hub centric? Tire may be balanced when put on the balance machine but if it does not sit hub centric on the axle, it can crate vibration.
  8. Did you install a used Granada prop valve? If so, there is a high chance that it is frozen inside and will never tripp. You may want to open it up and rebuild it if needed. I would do more research on master cylinder size, I think 1" is small for a booster which will give you a low pedal when pressed. I would find out what size master was used on Granada with booster and use that size. I replaced parts store pads with Porterfield pads on one of my 70 Mustangs. It makes a grinding noise if you brake very lightly, also a lot more brake dust. Have not noticed any difference in braking performance during daily driving.
  9. The bezel fits/holds fine even if both tabs are broken.
  10. If you are talking about the right side dash bezel with clock hole, tabs are attached to the dash pad. You install the clock bezel to dash pad out of the car, then install the dash pad with clock bezel to dash.
  11. As far as I remember, they are welded and one screw at the rear end.
  12. Listen to Brian and drive it for awhile and enjoy it. Along the way, you can sort other smaller issues you may have. Usually (if not molested) the wires under the hood take a beating due to heat, check your wires to see of the insulation is hard and brittle. Midlife restored harness is a good option if you need replacement. If you add stuff that draws more current than factory, you should use relays triggered by factory wiring.
  13. Give it as much advance as possible without pinging. Increase the timing 2 degrees then drive it, if it is not pinging, give 2 more degrees. Keep increasing the timing as above until it pings; when it pings, take 2 degrees of timing. My engine is at 18 degrees timing and idles at 570 rpm when in gear (auto). Every engine is different, so you have to play with it to find the optimum timing.
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