Jump to content

aslanefe

Members
  • Content Count

    1,117
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    30

aslanefe last won the day on June 21

aslanefe had the most liked content!

About aslanefe

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster

Profile Information

  • Location
    : Mid GA

Recent Profile Visitors

2,501 profile views
  1. Removed the box from my daily driver just to take this photo for you p). Box is upside down on the photo and cable is not attached. Vacuum actuator on right side.
  2. When the glove box is closed, you can see both levers (lever with cable and level with actuator) if you look above the foot well.
  3. Yes, I was trying to describe you where the marked arm is attached to. On the photo I referenced above, the cable goes over the shaft because of the angle of the photo. When the box is installed, the lever that you are asking about is 2 inches directly below the lever the cable is attached to.
  4. You can see where the actuator arm is attached to on photo above (kind of). See the wire/cable attached to the lever that activates the vacuum switch? Follow that wire/cable to the left of the photo. At the edge of the photo that wire/cable is going over the shaft of the lever the actuator arm is attached to. If the photo was about an inch or two wider, you would see the end of the actuator arm and the end of the lever it is attached to.
  5. For future reference, the purpose of the can is to store vacuum. If you choose the above solution, make sure to put a check valve on the inlet side of the can so it will hold the stored vacuum when you get on the throttle. Otherwise the vacuum will drop when you get on the throttle and your AC/heater will not blow from your set position until you get off the throttle and vacuum builds up again.
  6. On my 69 with factory air, the green wire to compressor is molded as part of the bundle where NSS and wiper motor wires come out, about 2 inches inboard of the gas pedal cable.
  7. By the way, you need to remove all of the rust where you are going to solder. If a spec of rust is left, solder won’t stick.
  8. You should be able to solder that. Tin the area first; if the solder does not bridge the gap get a piece of 14–18 gauge solid copper wire, tin it, bend it to fit on the open area, lay it over the gap and solder around the wire. Make sure you do not get the side with inlet/outlet get hot. I think there is a rubber valve inside that inlet/outlet piece that can get damaged. Putting the can on a cup of water (with inlet/outlet submerged in water) or wrapping with wet cloth while soldering will work.
  9. If my memory serves me right, the switch also activates the vacuum actuator on the first photo. So when switch is pressed by the lever of blend door 1" (activated by the cable of hot-cold lever) the heater control valve closes and stops hot coolant going into the heater core. And at the same time the vacuum actuator closes the "blend door 2" and eliminates the air going "through" the heater core.
  10. Generic can will work, you may have to drill new holes,or fashion a way to install it. Usually the original can rots at the bottom edge by the inlet/outlet. If it just a small hole, you can try to solder it or use epoxy or something like that to seal.
  11. It has 2 blend doors, kind of. Vacuum actuator operates one, cable operates the other. You need to open up a unit to understand how the 2 doors work together.
  12. Look at this thread. You can see the switch in the video and the photo.
  13. You do not need a prophane torch to solder that, soldering iron will do. You do not need to drill out the rivets to remove the clips. If you look closely to the clips where the fuse is held, you will see small tabs at the outsides; press those little tabs inwards both at the same time (with two small screw drivers or a small needle nose pliers) and the clip will come out. You have to do one clip at a time for that double clip, push one clip out a little, then when you push the other clip, both will come out.
  14. How about, stick solid copper wire under the terminal (between 2 rivets), wrap it around while capturing the broken end under it. Twist the end and solder the copper, broken tab on the wire to the terminal.
  15. I would measure the intake by the temp sensor. It is an area before the coolant goes to the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...