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aslanefe

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aslanefe last won the day on March 25

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About aslanefe

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    : Mid GA

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  1. Here is the link. for the person parting out a 69 Grande.
  2. Some member here is parting out a 70 Grande. Look in parts for sale section and ask him if he still has the torsion rods available.
  3. Few months after I started daily driving my 69 Grande that has not been run for a long time, the rear main started leaking. Removed the C4 and replaced rear main seal. About a month later, the pump to convertor seal on the C4 started leaking. Was so glad to have a transmission jack and 2 post lift.
  4. Yes you need a 70 filler neck and your flip cap should fit.
  5. Looks like you got some good pictures with dimensions. The pictures latoracing posted looks like they are for a vert as it has additional inner rocker used on verts (or may be coupe or fastback he added the vert inner rockers). Use the dimensions from Casgar's pictures. On latoracing's first picture, you can see the 2 holes close to the frame rail on the torque box; inner hole (round one) is for fuel line, outher hole (D shaped) for parking brake cable (with a channel for the cable).
  6. If nobody has the dimensions, I will take picture (of a 70 Cougar, which should be the same) this evening with dimensions.
  7. As far as I remember, the parking brake goes through the toe board (not floor) into torque box and comes out of the torque box outside of the frame rail buy the gas line. There is a channel (like a slide) inside the torque box that guides the cable.
  8. Does it matter for the lighter if the doors are open or closed? I think clock and lighter are on same "always on circuit".
  9. Not sure if it is 5/16 or 3/8 hose, if 3/8 fits over the vent tube and clamps, use it.
  10. My 70 Grande has map light, foot well lights that come on with roof light, trunk light that comes on when trunk is opened but no ignition switch light (which is for only 69 I think) and no hood light and I don't remember a hole under the hood for attaching the light.
  11. If I were you, I would chart my vacuum and mechanical advances before trying to adjust/change them. For vacuum, I attach a handheld vacuum pump with vacuum gauge to advance canister (with the vacuum line on carb or manifold plugged), set the idle speed to about 750 rpm and after that set the advance to about 10 degrees. Then apply 2 hg vacuum to canister and measure the advance reading. Increase the vacuum to 4 and measure the advance. Do this all the way to 24-25 hg vacuum and record the readings (hg vacuum applied vs advance increase which is advance reading minus your initial 10 degree). For mechanical, remove and plug the vacuum to canister. Start the car, set timing to 8 or 10, and rpm to 500 (check and make sure advance is still 10 or 8). Increase the rpm to 750 and record the advance, increase the rpm to 1000, record the advance, do this all the way to 3000-3500 (till advance stops increasing). Record the rpm vs advance increases advance reading minus initial advance). Make 2 tables or charts, one for vacuum vs advance increase, other for rpm vs advance increase. I would check the mechanical advance curve first as it looks like it may need adjustment. Now you know how your distributor is set up and make the necessary adjustments (spring changes, stop limits, vacuum adjustment etc) needed for your engine.
  12. How are your vacuum and mechanical advances? If they are not set correct, a slight rpm and/or vacuum increase will advance the timing.
  13. If you have your original hood, there should be a hole on the under brace for the light. But I am not sure if the under hood light was a part of convenience group.
  14. I can use them if they are black.
  15. Looking good. When I have to hammer inside close/tight areas, I use a dolly as a hammer instead of a body hammer with a handle. By using a dolly as hammer, you do not have to swing it as wide to move the metal compared to a hammer. Close to the ends where you can't get a hammer or dolly to swing, I push the dent out in very small sections with one of my body picks (like the ones used by paintless dent removal folks), a pry bar or a flat screw driver I modify the end.
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