newstang

when you buy a car like this you are only buying the vin, you will be replacing everything, make sure that the dash and fender apron vin are the same. unless you have a shop with lift, rotisserie, and lots of welding materials this is not a car you want to start with.

I ended up ordering the plugs from summit, (Scott Drake) Ill just need to put in the pins/.

Thanks, it runs pretty well (well at least engine starts and keeps running) Im just not used to the older style anything anymore. I know it sounds silly, but once you do modular engines, you forget simplicity/

well, i think i solved the problem. the pigtail is not made, but for some stupid reason, only the plastic part of it is. Luckily for me, I have the pin connectors to go in them from other plug connectors i use. http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C8AZ-14489-K.aspx?wid=141

I can not believe that doing a search for this brings no results! Is it possible these are not made?

haven't kept a tally on this one because i thought id do this on the cheap. but so far in the last 3 weeks I've spent over 13k, not including anything before :-(

Its Alive, now just chasing leaks IMG_1510.mov

you get rid of all of it. cap off any wires coming from the ignition switch that go to the stator. yellow wire to bat terminal on alt, white wire goes to single terminal on top of alt, green wire really not used but goes to "Alt" dash light. of course, run the 4ga battery cable to the battery.

EFI Fuel tank is in and wired. For a Canadian product, it sure feels and was packed Chineesey.

I dont know why none of the hoses come without a spring in the hose anymore. the rubber is no stronger and probably softer than before, so i doubt technology will be there for us when it collapses and overheats. So in case you cant find one ( like me) here is how i made mine in 2 min. 3/32 stainless steel tig wire 1" black pipe and vise grips/ Problem solved! Pics are out of order, but you get the point,

Calm under pressure !, thats what Xanex is for :-)

ok, i decided to cut off a bit at an angle. it is now clear.

thinking of using a header flange to make it come out 3/8 https://www.racemufflers.com/Ford-Stainless-Header-Flanges-s/2086.htm

Its on its feet today!. I put it up on the lift and the clearance of the exhaust to the block/ bellhousing is closer than i thought. This is the 3rd set of different headers to have this issue. I may have to cut off an angle of the block or anyone else run into this crap? Or-- what are the the thoughts of adding a spacer between the block and manifold to bring it out a 1/2"

all my 9" centers do, this 8" doesnt