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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on January 14

Mach1 Driver had the most liked content!

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. Also consider aftermarket "strut rods". Its a little terrifying to see how much the control arms move forward and back with stock strut rods. The suspension came from the Falcon, and is really pretty bad. Watch these two videos and you'll see why: This shows after installing Street or Track: Also, FPA Ford Powertrain Applications are expensive long tube headers but generally well liked with no ground clearance issues
  2. Our old girls will never be a 1000 hp ZR1, but you can definitely pep them up and have fun doing it, so here are my two cents. So if you are planning on bumping it to 392 in the future it must be a 351w. Is it a 2V or 4V? The 4Vs have higher compression. Keep in mind that a 351w in a 69 doesn't have a lot of hood clearance when planning for a intake and air cleaner. The stock manifold in either 2v or 4v is only 3" tall. If you don't mind drop down air cleaners its not a big issue. The carb would pencil out at 550, but 650 won't kill it. I like the Summit M2008 series because they fixed all the problems of a Holley and they were actually designed by them. AFR has been owned by an investment firm for a few years now and I haven't heard how that has affected the products, but TF is still good as far as I know, and new aluminum heads will definitely wake it up. If you go with roller rockers be sure to get a high quality set. When one of those comes apart it dumps a lot of parts in the engine. I know most people go with headers, but tests show that they really don't help all that much and are not as quiet as cast iron manifolds. IMO, A big lumpy cam, headers and loud mufflers will make you smile only if you drive it for short distances and don't plan on talking or listening to tunes while doing it. It depends on how you are going to drive it. Back in the day, most muscle cars had a nice rumble, but still allowed conversation. If you don't mind changing points occasionally, you don't have to go with an electronic ignition. They raced these things with points, and nothing electronic lasts for 60 years. Proof of this is that none of these cars have the original radios- they died long ago. The only thing an electronic ignition will do is relieve your wallet- it won't make it run better. Once you get it running again, you will want to do the Arning drop to fix the pathetic Falcon suspension in these cars. This type of suspension is designed for hydraulic shocks. Roller perches are the highest recommended upgrade. https://www.youtube.com/user/EatonDetroitSpring
  3. I didn't see much that was specific to heater only in a Mustang, but there are over 70 pages devoted to the various combinations in the shop manual. There is always the WCCC video, but since its a Cougar its heat and A/C:
  4. As always, Jim performs miracles. Its really interesting to watch it all come together. Excellent work Ridge. Bob, I could post pics here if I wanted to find a place to host the pictures (and probably have to pay for it) and then there are the added steps to make it all come together here on this failing site. Sorry, but it's hard to feel otherwise. I don't see the point when VMF makes it so much easier (and how it used to be here). It is sad to see this place go away though. The site just told me "Sorry, can't add anymore notifications today". I was just trying to give Jim some more "likes". Jeez, what a decrepit mess this place has become.
  5. So far we have responses from TX, S.C., and southern California. I lived a few hours drive from Ridge in southern California for most of my life and now I'm in Georgia, a few hours from Dave in S.C. I was concerned how badly my car and tools started rusting after a few years in Georgia- and they were all kept inside and "dry". The humidity is MUCH higher here, and keeping things inside in a dry place really didn't help. If it were me, and living here in the high humidity, I would sand and epoxy them as soon as possible, just to keep the rust down and probably save myself more work later. I guess it depends on where you live- is it 20-30% relative humidity like where Ridge lives, or 70-90% in the summer like where Dave and I live on the east coast.
  6. Yeah, and its in such a convenient location (NOT). Yes that should work; disconnect the battery, turn signal on, unplug the front light and connect to the correct wire and the output side of the flasher with your ohmmeter, and you should get continuity if all is well.
  7. Guys, it would be easier to discuss on VMF where Ed already has a post going: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-front-blinkers-not-working.1228947/?post_id=11028934#post-11028934 The meaning may become obvious with pictures. That's why I didn't bother posting here.
  8. Indeed I did. May you and yours have a brighter new year.
  9. And a Happy New Year guys
  10. What tool in particular are you referring to? Belt tension?
  11. Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9". https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-traction-lock-differential-assembly.1228092/page-3?post_id=11016895#post-11016895
  12. From the Chassis Assembly Manual: Standard suspension 27.02" GT & IMP, Handling 36.72" (obviously an error- it's probably 26.72") Competition 26.62" all are +1.00, -0.70 Mine is still stock with 14" rims and 27.375".
  13. Oh yeah, that was the article I found to increase the sensitivity of the ammeter. I still intend to play with that and let you all know how that worked. In the article he doesn't mention to first clean the contacts in the firewall plug, as is mentioned in other articles. Our cars also have the plug going to the flex circuit added in there. His method was to increase the length of the shunt (wire 38A in our cars), thereby increasing its resistance and forcing more current through the ammeter. The theory is solid and should work with no problem (easy for me to say), and I'll let you know the details... just don't hold your breath ;)
  14. I had a wooden double garage door that sagged in the middle and was high enough at the ends to let the little buggers to get in. I replaced it with a steel door 3-5 years ago and haven't had a problem since. I used glue traps when I had the problem.
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