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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on September 11

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. Is this a recent rebuild? The head gaskets can be assembled with the water passage to the front or rear. If the passage is positioned in the front, then the rear of the engine won't get any water. If its positioned to the rear, then the entire engine gets circulation.
  2. There ya go! Two big car restorers Barnett and MTF on different sides of the issue. So ya see, it just doesn't matter
  3. A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  4. Here's some stuff from another forum: Bryonl, 11/27/2011, VMF Avoid DOT 5 fluid. The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away! DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY! That leaves DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. These fluids are compatible with each other and may be interchanged or mixed with no ill effects. I am an aircraft hydraulic system mechanic and just wanted back up info. on DOT 5 fluids and the moisture problems it has and discourage its use as quickly as I could. Ivy66gt The reason the military uses DOT 5 is because it’s good to -40 F. You aren't likely to drive much in that kind of weather. The military has also considered giving it up and using more normal fluids. If that happens then the entire DOT 5 market will likely collapse and it will only be a memory. As you go up in altitude the bubble and spongy pedal problems get worse. Its not just bubbles from pouring; at high altitude the bubbles can form on their own. A DOT 3/4 fluid actually works better with initial moisture contact. It has additives that absorb up to a few percent of water and make it harmless. DOT 5 allows any water to puddle and cause rust. Its only after the DOT 3/4 gets more water than it can handle that water becomes a problem. The answer is: Change your DOT 3/4 brake fluid often, BMW says every year. And BMW, don’t spill any of its as its not good for paint. The DOT 5.1's are not the same stuff but are more like conventional brake fluid except with higher boiling points.
  5. The transmission you are referring to is an FMX, and is a good stout 3 speed automatic transmission. If you are looking at automatics, most people upgrade to an overdrive trans, the AOD, AODE, or the 4R70W. These are in succession of age and the 4R70W has improvements over the previous years. These will bolt right up to a 351w. The overdrive will slow the engine down when crusing and extend its life, reduce freeway noise (because the engine is going slower), and make it seem more like a modern car which all have overdrive. It will require some modification to the shift linkage, a new trans support, and driveshaft. The AODE and 4R70W will also require an electronic transmission controller and wire harness. I have no idea what a shop would charge for the modification, but the transmission alone can be around $1300, and a controller and harness $750. It would be a pricey upgrade if you aren't doing it yourself.
  6. I can't say with certainty because I don't know what you or the previous owner have done. Just taping off those wires would not be per PA Performance's instructions though. Also, for some reason they (PA Performance) assumes the car already has fuse links, so that presents more problems. Fuse links weren't added by Ford until 1970. The ramifications of that is explained in the attachment. I would wire the car the way shown in my attachment. I recently found out exactly what is inside their pseudo regulator (conversion kit 462802C ) and explain what it does and show how to wire everything. I like the kit because it makes all this pretty painless- if you can connect everything as shown in my diagram. This is a pretty big file and I'm not sure this will upload. If it doesn't contact me here via the private message service. Edit, my original concern with using 462802C was that if you're out on the road and the alternator goes out, you couldn't replace it with one from the local auto parts store because 462802C wouldn't be compatible with it. After reviewing what is in 462802C I have determined that isn't the case- see the summary just below. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to alternators. Anything over about 95 amps will require two v-belts to turn it, or a serpentine system- and that will require dumping the fan and replacing it with electric fans which will drag another 20 amps. If you don't want to go down that rabbit hole, then go with a 95 amp alternator or less. 3G, 95A Alternator Summary 1. You can use the PA Performance “1G to 3G conversion kit 462802C” with any 3G alternator that has a gray regulator (that is most) 2. You can use any auto parts store 3G to replace the PA Performance (1614E) when on the road and the 462802C will not affect its operation. It may be difficult to find a 95A Alternator on the road, but the cars using them are listed below. 3. If the belt squeaks, you can use a bigger pulley like WAI 24-2104 with 2.988 OD. Stock is 2.7. Dead-nuts-on makes 3.87 OD, AL2026-B2 (43% bigger). Just remember that you are slowing the alternator down with a bigger pulley and too much could affect the RPM your alternator begins charging- which is the advantage of the 3G. 4. If belt squeaks at start-up use a 6 second delay regulator F5RZ-10316-BA, F5RU-10316-A GR818 F786 5. Get 14ga fuse link from picowiring.com, on pg 23 #5554PT 6. Fuses and cables are available for PA Performance 9904, or Painless 30831 7. List of cars that use a 3G, 95A alternator: 92, 93, 94 Aerostar 3.0L 92, 93, 94 B600 5.9 Diesel 92, 93, 94 B700 5.9 Diesel 92 E150 Econoline and Club wagon, 5.0L 92 E150 Econoline and Club wagon, 5.8L 92 E250, 5.8L 92 E350, 5.8L 92 E350, 7.5L 92-96 E350, 7.5L 92 E-series 5.0L 92 E-series 5.8L 92-96 E-series 7.5L 96 Econo Super Duty 7.5L 95 F-250 7.5L 95 F-350 7.5L 95 F Series 7.5L 95 F53 7.5L What is inside the PA Performance Dummy Regulator.docx
  7. It looks like that's the dipstick tube bracket attached under that bolt? Normally its attached to the inboard head bolt hole, along with the coil. Would that allow the bolt to go in far enough? If not, maybe you could grind a little off the bracket where the bolt seats. On mine the belt must be a bit longer allowing the alternator to swing out further and they never come close- so you could try a little longer belt too, and that may be the easiest fix. So there are potentially three ways to resolve your problem. I hope one of those works.
  8. How to reclock your 3G alternator https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+clock+3g+alternator+case&oq=how+to+clock+3g+alternator+case&aqs=chrome..69i57.9300j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_DXS1X6PNJdCUtAbX7qjwBw8
  9. Thanks, no problem from the back. You're making my brain hurt!
  10. Ditto, something like the starter must be in the way?
  11. I did a bit of digging and found this from George Reid in his book High Performance Ford Engine Parts Interchange. It appears (much to my surprise) that the 351W already has a manifold comparable to the 289 HIPO- who knew- way to go Henry! The 289 High Performance exhaust manifold is obviously different and offers improved breathing. Here, we compare them with standard 289 manifolds (B and D). These manifolds are C3OE-9431-B (Left Side/Arrow C) and C4ZE-9430-A (Right Side/Arrow A) from 1963-66. For 1967, they are C7ZE-9431-A (Left Side) and C7ZE-9430-A (Right Side). The 289 High Performance exhaust manifolds are available as reproductions from Ford parts vendors. 289 standard= B & D 351W standard 289 HIPO= A & C The 351W exhaust manifold is similar to the 289 High Performance pieces just mentioned. It offers improved breathing over the 289/302-2V and 4V manifolds without excessive header heat and clearance problems. As you can see, 351W manifolds vary from left to right. There is a right-hand 351W exhaust manifold similar to the manifold on the 289. Edit, looking at the pictures I see that the bolts don't appear to be in a straight line on the passenger side manifold of the 351W, as they are on the drivers side, but I don't think that's the case with mine. It's too crowded on the car to get a good look, but it makes me wonder about the validity of pictures. I pulled up some pictures of the gaskets and they appear to be mirror images right to left, which wouldn't be possible- has anyone noticed offset bolts like this on their manifolds? Methinks there may be an error here.
  12. I've read that these cast iron manifolds will fit 351w heads, but will they navigate around everything else? I suspect they have a good chance. I'm just asking because they won't be as loud as headers or have the heat problem. Obviously they are a step down from long tubes but should be better than stock. Anyone tried these in our beasts? https://www.dearbornclassics.com/exhaust-manifolds-hi-po-289-351w-1963-1965.html
  13. http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm
  14. Mach1 Driver

    Rat Wax

    I got this tip on another site- has anyone used Rax Wax? Its for flat, matte, and satin finishes like our hoods. He couldn't testify that it worked. https://www.ratwax.net/
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