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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on July 13

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. don't dumb it down to the point that you don't add the two fuse links to protect the car properly ;)
  2. If you break down on the road with a PA Performance alternator you won't be able to go to the auto parts store to replace it. PA Performance has its own special regulator so you have to use their alternator. All of the 3Gs require rewiring- nothing is plug and play. I would go with a Ford style 3G so if it breaks you can replace it on the road and get going again. Since you have to rewire anyway it just makes sense to add the two fuse links to protect the car properly.
  3. If the slip ring on your aftermarket wheel doesn't line up with the steering column then adding a relay won't solve your problem. Many of aftermarket wheels are made for GM cars and don't match Ford columns. GM is a bigger market. Before adding a relay I would check the position of the slip ring track in relation to the contact button. The button is probably slipping off the track and shorting to ground, and since it is hot that takes out the fuse. Also you could check the amp draw on the horns- it should be around 13.9A for both.
  4. this may help with the wiring https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/10003191.html
  5. You may need 1/4 wave resonance tubes to kill the drone. There's a good post on VMF. Search for "Drone help" and see post #3 for the formula. A resonance tube is a specific length of exhaust pipe added behind the muffler. It branches off of the existing exhaust pipe and is a dead end. You calculate the length of pipe you need based on the speed the drone occurs. The sound wave zips down the pipe, bounces off the end and returns to the main pipe at exactly the same time that the next sound wave is coming down the pipe and they cancel each other out. Pretty nifty. We used to do the same thing to cancel out microwaves in microwave oven door seals- its the same principal and is called a 1/4 wave choke. Don't worry, its simple math and any good muffler shop can do it.
  6. That's interesting, the 205/70/14 should be 1.181" narrower and .098" taller. I found this explanation of what should happen with taller side walls: A taller, more compliant sidewall has an easier time keeping the contact patch on the ground. With a wider patch and more grip, the car rolls more, lifting the inner part of the tread off the pavement and suddenly reducing grip. So, without retuning the suspension, handling can actually suffer. So what do you actually notice- a softer ride?
  7. Thanks I called them up. They said it has a very lopey cam, and since I don't want that they suggested 2182, which has an LSA of 112 like Barnett suggested. That will drop 30-40HP. The intake with this package is 7581 which is a dual plane. Since I'm going with a Sniper, a single plane 5081 is probably more appropriate, but I'll have to ask. Its also .65" shorter. Can you run the big stock blue bucket air cleaner, or does it hit the hood?
  8. The shrink sleeving fooled me- that looks good
  9. Nice work- whose connectors are those in the last two pics? Is that rubber or plastic hose?
  10. I like the visuals
  11. We've been over this before and I appreciate your interest. After reading that the 4V had 10.7:1 compression and wasn't merely the addition of a four barrel, I was curious how those engines fared with today's gas. It will be some time before I actually get to the engine part of the restoration, and I'm considering how far I want to take it. Do I want to bolt some go-fast parts onto a basically stock but refurbished short block, or bore it for more cubic inches? The stock block may be enough for me. For crude estimating purposes and given a 351W 2V short block, how much extra HP might one expect from : AFR 205 cc heads, Edelbrock 5081 intake with a Sniper (strictly for convenience), FPA 4 tube step headers, and here is the big variable- a mild cam (not lopey). I have read others estimate 40 HP for the heads, 20 HP for the intake/carb, 20 HP for the headers and wild numbers for the cam ranging from 25-100 HP. I'm guessing 20 for the cam. Would a total increase of 100 HP be an unreasonable estimate? I know all the stuff to make it breathe better doesn't do much good without a big cam, but I don't want to constantly hear and feel all the racket.
  12. Mine is a completely stock 2V that I will probably stroke. I remember when they made the switch to unleaded and lowered the octane. I would occasionally go to a station that sold what they called avgas at the time- it was 105. I'd get a few blocks away and the idle would smooth out and she would purr like a kitten. Since your CR is fairly steep for today's pump gas, I was curious how it behaved. I was planning something around 10.1:1. I figure that if I get stuck some place where I can only get 89 it will still run ok. I have a Sunoco very close that sells 90 with no ethanol. Thanks
  13. I've got a 2V which only has 9.5:1 compression. I've seen different numbers but believe the 4V to have 10.7:1. Is that correct? I assume the pistons, intake and carb change- anything else? Do you have any trouble running 91 octane? Thanks.
  14. He is correct about the depth issue. The Kenwood speakers sold by WCCC do not have the depth issue. The will fit a Cougar or Mustang door panel.
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