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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on September 11

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. A schematic shows how a circuit works. It is the document that a wire diagram is made from, and is much easier to follow than a wire diagram, but even in this simplified form it can be difficult for most people to follow. The turn signals begin in the middle on the left, goes through fuse #1, through the flasher and hazard switch, then down to the turn switch. There are three examples of how the switch works on the right. Power goes through the switch to the bulbs that have two filaments in them, but only the filament marked as "turn" is used for signals, and then it goes to ground.
  2. If you do have a 140 amp alternator, why would you want a 60 amp fuse? IF you increase the wire size the fuse will blow when there is a big enough load or the battery is discharged to a point that the regulator tells the alternator to charge at full amps. You need a mega fuse and the wire to go with it. We need to know the exact wattage of all six light filaments to figure out how to make the system work- but they should improve to "stock quality" with a properly wired relay system. You'll still need to fix the alternator wiring problem- that is a major bottle neck and could potentially start a fire with an undersized wire.
  3. 1. One thing at a time- first you need to pick the headlights you want. You can't go forward without this step. 2. Decide how to adequately get power to the lights. We can help there. 3. Modify the circuits to provide the desired results.
  4. From a previous post I believe you indicated you had a 140 amp alternator- if so the 10 ga wire must be heating and limiting the current so the 60 amp fuse doesn't blow. Wire gets hot in the engine bay which increases it's resistance so a 10 ga wire from the 140 amp alternator will only handle 51 amps. The 4 ga will handle 136 amps. It does no good to have 4 ga wire on the negative side and only 10 ga wire on the positive side. You have to balance the equation- right now the system will only handle 51 amps.
  5. There is ample volts at the battery- install relays and things should brighten things up. You are loosing it in the harness, light switch and connectors along the way. Stock low beams are 35w/35 w and the high beam is 50w. Your halogen high beam is probably 50w? Don't skimp on the relays, get a good brand like Bosch, and 40A like 0332019157. You want short runs from the battery to relays to lights with heavy gauge wire, something like the attached HEADLIGHTS.pdf
  6. Remind us- do you have stock lights now? Did you determine why your lights are browning out, even though you have a "large" alternator? IMO, lights that aren't DOT approved are dangerous to you and other drivers. Without a properly tested light pattern they can reflect light back at the driver in fog or rain, or blind oncoming cars. I would check with Daniel Stern Lighting and see what he says. Because of our unique size (5-3/4") we have limited choices, and low volume makes it unlikely that manufacturers will perform expensive testing. I think there is at least one approved LED, but it is multi-faceted like a bug eye and ugly as sin. There are DOT approved halogens (and they look like a normal headlight), but I am not aware if any HIDs are approved. Halogens have higher power requirements than stock, and LEDs have lower, but I am unfamiliar with HIDs. With a properly wired relay system even halogens should work for you.
  7. I've researched this some, and all the aftermarket columns that I'm aware of are made for GM steering wheel slip rings. They do not line up with the Ford slip ring, so the horn will probably short out or not work. That may not be a problem for you, but I like the original wheel and want to keep it. In that case get a used tilt column. Lots of higher end Ford models used them so they are available. There are two versions- the tilt/swing-away and just the tilt. The tilt/swing-away are considered too complicated and troublesome, and most people have them converted to just tilt, and you can still tilt it up to get in and out of the car easier. These columns have a flaw- there are two pins that are press fit and if they come loose it damages other parts. Find a rebuilder who will use oversize pins, or better yet- longer pins with c-clips to hold them in place.
  8. They make at least three coatings- the silver rust sealer, AG111 and chassis black. If he followed the directions like he said he did, then this test has two coats of the silver rust sealer and one coat of black AG111 on top of that. The silver rust sealer had no affect after 30 days of xylol, toluol, alcohol, glycol, ethyl glycol, gasoline, diesel or JP4 . Acetone would soften it after 10 days but it would reharden upon removal. Methylene chloride destroyed the film in 2 days. AG111 (which goes on top) was much more resistant- still good at 90 days in hydrochloric acid ethylene glycol, sulfuric acid ethyl acetate, nitric acid methyl ethyl ketone, castic soda methyl isobutyl, ketone ammonium chlorate, perchlorethylene, Hydraulic oil tricresyl phosphate, oxalic acid Skydrol A500, citric acid, JP4 jet fuel, gasoline, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, Mil-e-23699 hydraulic oil, oleic acid, Skydrol A500, tricresyl phosphate. It had good resistance after 60 days in tolulene sulphuric acid, xylene phosphoric acid, methanol lactic acid, ethanol oxalic acid,, acetone, anonia, formic acid, but got a poor rating for methylene chloride. Look at actual test results- AG111 blows all the others away, and I doubt if this guy works for Mastercoat. He's doing this in his garage in a converted fish tank:
  9. Yep, it looks good. Say, I noticed that you may have a trunk light- I see a wire. Could you post a picture- and where did you get it?
  10. OK, and thanks for the link. I'm going to try that, but it will be a while still. BTW, they say this stuff will glue the lid on the metal cans it comes in and to use Seran Wrap under the can lid, or transfer it to plastic bottles if saving leftover material (before mixing with catalyst). If it dries on equipment, then industrial paint stripper has to be used to remove it. It sounds like if you don't get the equipment clean, its toast. It also works well as a glue- crazy stuff. They suggest using a fresh air hood when spraying and don't get it on your skin- it must be toxic as hell.
  11. Well you're not going to rust anymore. Mike, is that the gloss or simi-gloss black?
  12. Since all of our cars have some rust, I've investigated anti-rust coatings and found Mastercoat to be the clear winner. If you go to their website they have a video by an individual that made a salt fog chamber and ran all the popular brands through a month long test. Its very eye opening. Mastercoat recommends you use a wire brush and get all the crusty stuff off, use their "Ultimate Prep Prime and Paint", then two coats of "Permanent Rust Sealer", and lastly one coat of AG111. They recommend a 2mm tip if you want to spray it, but a version is made for brushing. The obvious places to use it is the chassis, inside the doors, and the cowl. The 69s are blessed with the removable panel, and since I had heard horror stories about rusted cowls I inspected mine this morning. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was painted black inside (I read that earlier years weren't even painted) and mine had zero visible rust! I'm the original owner and know its all factory. Until I retired 6 years ago, it was in southern California and always garaged. The inside of my doors have surface rust so that's a good place to use it (Mastercoat). I could brush it on, but would prefer to spray it (particularly in the cowl where it is somewhat visible). How did you guys spray these areas? I have read that one guy used an air brush in the cowl, but they typically only go up to a 0.5mm tip (I think), and this material is too thick and they only recommend thinning by 10%. Many people use 360 degree spray wands like the 3M 08851, but how would you attach that to a spray gun, and with so little control you are really just flooding the area. What are your thoughts and what did you do?
  13. I haven't tried it but that carpet is much nicer than the cheesy mat that came with the car
  14. now lets be reasonable- they are Biden's fault
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