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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on July 14

Mach1 Driver had the most liked content!

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link below, you have free access to all the documents in this directory. Since we can't post pictures anymore here, get the "69 Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf" and see page 2-E29: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
  2. The video isn't quite correct. I'm the original owner of a 69 Mach1 that by coincidence is the same color as in the video. I was 19 when I bought it new. The reason there were no screws in the kit for the lanyards to attach to the core support is because the loop in the lanyard was simply pushed down over the pin, not screwed to the core support. Also, the lanyards were not routed through the grill, they just lay on top of it. The only difference I see in the kit and the original parts is that the swaging sleeves used to make the loops in the lanyards are much larger than on the originals. Its too bad you can't buy just the lanyards from Ford anymore but this appears to be the closest reproduction available now. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced those over the years because the protective plastic covering on the lanyards cracks and falls off as it ages.
  3. I haven't tried it yet, but it seems so, if you believe CJ Pony: https://www.cjponyparts.com/windshield-wiper-control-module-intermittent-mustang-1969/p/WWS25/
  4. Hi Dave, I looked on their site and didn't see anything- any idea what the brand is? Ace has independent retailers, so they could have anything in their stores- mine sells locally collected honey.
  5. I get a message to "Please contact us for assistance" whenever I try to insert a picture, and get a "failed upload" notice. We all know that Ben has bigger fish to fry than this seemingly little problem. I'm happy the site is up and running again, but it's pretty useless without the ability to post pictures. I assume that this is an unintended consequence of the effort to keep the bots off the site. Perhaps all uploads have been blocked? Does anyone have some insight into this problem? Edit, it seems the only way to get a picture is via a hyperlink, but obviously you need someplace to park the pictures for retrieval.
  6. Mike, I can't attach pictures anymore- I assume you have the picture shown above because of the hyperlink? I get a message to "Please contact us for assistance" whenever I try to insert a picture, and get a "failed upload". We all know that Ben has bigger fish to fry than this seemingly little problem. I'm happy the site is up and running again, but it's pretty useless without the ability to post pictures. I assume that this is an unintended consequence of the effort to keep the bots off the site. Does anyone have suggestions? I'm going to start a post on this topic to draw more attention.
  7. Here are some suggestions from various places around the web: The good news is that once the trim is on the car, there is not that much stress on the pins. There are two ways to make a repair. 1. If the base where the pin is big enough, carefully drill a hole where the broken pin was. Then using a bottoming tap put some 4/40 or 6/32 threads in the hole. Using thread locker screw the correct size screw in that hole. Grind the head of the screw off. You now have a stud for that mount. 2. If the broken pin spot is to small or shallow to do the drill and tap method. Use a Dremel tool and cut the base of the broken pin out. Cut the head off of a 4/40 screw. JB weld the screw in place of the broken pin. You can use masking tape to hold it in place until the JB cures (others complained that it fell off almost immediately using this method). I drilled and tapped all 6 spears in front fenders with a 1/8th bit and after 8 years of driving it is all still good. If you have the material there, drill and tap (use a bottom tap to utilize every thread) Cut a stud to length, insert it using red Loctite. I think Loctite might make something even stronger than red. Try Muggyweld.com, that's what I use to weld pot metal, works great. Just don't breathe the fumes and be patient and not cut corners. Follow directions. For about 60 bucks you can get a couple of sticks and some flux. Pricey but it's the only one that I'm aware of that's made for this specifically.
  8. here is a link to the gasket set: https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-set-heater-box/103212?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dheater%2Bdoor%2Bfoam%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969
  9. Two different Hedman headers are mentioned above, 88660 and 88308- which did you use to get around the 4R70W?
  10. I don't know what you need specifically, but I just happened to notice today that for my car both of these kits to rebuild the master cylinder are available from NPD: 2004-4 and 2004-2a
  11. I tried to upload a picture earlier today too, but no dice. Ben (the owner) may not be aware of the problem, since he is hopefully still battling bots. He's a difficult man to get a hold of at the best of times.
  12. It isn't shown on the Mustang drawing, but is on the Cougar. I don't think it is on the flex circuit for the Stang. Aslanefe has made the switches in the past and should know how to wire it. It may require a socket or something. The switch provides the ground, and it goes to the light, the other side of which goes to a keyed positive source. You can wait for him to show up, or send him a private message.
  13. rwcstang, I assume copb8 was talking about his MC. So you think the rebuilders will have the parts for the MC even if NYPD doesn't? It's worth a shot.
  14. I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: There are several places that do booster rebuilding: boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC) mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang) Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM) Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.
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