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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on August 21

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. Vic, that sounds useful, can you attach the excel file here?
  2. That's interesting and definitely the first time I've heard that. What other suspension mods do you have? Anyone else have this experience?
  3. Here are a couple of references, and its best if you read it from the experts: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/understanding-shelby-arning-drop-changes/29324. https://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html I've only heard positive things about roller perches. Well OK, some people complain about the cost, but not the ride improvement.
  4. Thanks Ridge, we needed that. Whats ya workin on?
  5. Heres a couple, but since you don't know the amp rating its safest to have it run a relay that runs the pump XF3Z9341-AA: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185037073495 Ford Switch ASY : Automotive - Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com › Ford-XF3Z9341AA-XF3Z-...
  6. I was looking to see if I could find a time vrs current chart for fuse links to compare it to a circuit breaker time/current chart. I haven't been successful yet, but I did find clarification on the selection criteria for fuse links. See my EDIT two posts above. Now it finally makes sense to me.
  7. As you probably know, when the gauge number gets bigger, the wire size gets smaller. The fuse link needs to be smaller than the wire its protecting. In the past I have seen fuse links 2 wire sizes smaller than the wire they are protecting. I just googled it and found two references that say it should be 4 times. That would say a 10ga wire should have an 18ga fuse link (10, 12, 14, 16, 18...). While that is certainly safe for the protected circuit, I tend to think you may get nuisance tripping at 4 times, and personally would go with 2. I base this on Ford's use of a 14ga fuse link on a 10ga wire. EDIT: I did further investigation and found that you have to count ALL wire gauges. Normally we only use the even number gauges, but a fuse link site said to count all even and odd sizes, and the fuse link should be 4 sizes smaller, so my example about Ford above is correct. American Wire Gauge Sizes are 8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18, etc. If protecting a 10ga wire the correct fuse link is 14ga. which is four sizes smaller. Mystery solved.
  8. So yours is a swing-away system. Most people disable the swing-away and just use the tilt. West Coast Classic Cougar has a video on the system and sells what parts are available. They no longer rebuild tilt columns, since their expert retired, and use Tony Augustine 816-210-4779, tony6T8cougarguy@gmail.com. If you want to sell that column, please let me know, I'm looking for one.
  9. Tuff Stuff says that the alternator has a Ford style front case, a GM style rear case with heavy duty copper coils, spike resistant diodes, and an external solid state voltage regulator. From experience you know that the regulator can't be connected as the OEM regulator was. This is a combination of parts that doesn't operate the way the old system did, and you will never know what goes on inside their regulator. So, here are my recommendations: 1. Remove or disconnect and tape wires 904, 152, and 38. You will not have an alternator warning light. 2. Connect a 14ga fuse link between wire 37 and the terminal block. Do not bundle the fuse link into a harness with other wires- let it hang loose so if it melts it doesn't destroy other wires or harnesses. Its a fuse so let it do its job. If you need a source for this I can find it. 3. Put a mega fuse between the alternator battery terminal and the terminal block.
  10. I have read that its just regular copper wire- but smaller, so it should blow first in a high amp condition. By chance do you know the gauge sizes for 38 and 38A on the 1970?
  11. Mid, so from your description I'm guessing that wire 38A is the fusible link? Its probably just a wire that is a gauge or two smaller than wire 38.
  12. The techs are not familiar with individual year cars. Most of the car is unprotected- count the number of fuses in the block. Mine has only five fuses. Nothing in the ignition system is fused. The lights have two circuit breakers, but only after the wires get to the light switch. The gauges have nothing, the charging has nothing. The list goes on. Large portions of your main harness is unprotected. IMO a fuse on the alternator is warranted, but suit yourself. Ford did add fuse links somewhere on the 70s, but it's not shown on your diagram.
  13. Rich, you have already stated "The Alternator is running and charging great...no operational issue there. My issue is the Alternator light stays on and will not turn off. I called Tuff Stuff Tech and they told me I did not need to connect the I (ignition) wire (#904 Green/Red Stripe) from the regulator". They have told you to disconnect wire 904. Their regulator is electronic and doesn't function the way the electro-mechanical one does. I would ask them if anything needs to be connected to A, but according their document it doesn't. If you want to know how the OEM system operates, then take the time to read my paper- it is too lengthy to be discussed here. Besides, you're not using it anymore. The Tuff Stuff system is "electronic", while the OEM system is many decades older and "electro-mechanical". A tech on the phone is unlikely to have knowledge of the internal workings of their circuit. Its an apples and oranges comparison. They don't need the same inputs and outputs, and they won't publish details of the internal workings. Welcome to the wonderful world of generic aftermarket parts.
  14. The black wire you are referring to is 38? Power goes from battery+, to the terminal block, to 38, to 37, to the ignition switch B, to C in ON and Start, then back via 904 red/green to the battery+ again? That sounds like it is going nowhere. To alleviate any problems I would just remove 904, since it doesn't do anything anymore. As I mentioned earlier, I don't believe your wire diagram is 100% correct. I have found a number of problems on many wire diagrams- even my own Ford authorized drawing is incorrect in several places.
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