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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on April 28

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. There is an Autorestomod four part video series on how to rebuild a Trutrac that may help:
  2. I think Barnett was messing with everyone a little bit, but no one took the bait. He knows full well that Posi-Traction is a Chevy option, so as he said, the friction modifier would have to come from Chevy. Ford's version is Trac Lok, so directly above he finally said to only use Ford oils. Barnett, do you prefer Trac-Lok, to Eaton's True Trac?
  3. If you go here I think you may form another opinion. Go up to the top if the link drops you elsewhere. Click on Smily.
  4. Here's what it looks like electrically. As Mid said it could be the neutral safety switch, or you could be right and its the ignition switch. You could put the car in park or neutral, turn the key to "on" and jump from S to the battery lug on that side of the solenoid. If it starts but dies after you remove the short, then its either B to C in the ignition switch, the tach if you have one, or the resistor wire.
  5. Is it running rich or just stinking up the garage? Some carbs leak- it could be internal or external. I have an internal leaker that will smell up the garage for a week or more, until the bowl is dry. Its been that way since new and I've never found the source even when bench tested. If you have trouble starting after several days it could be because the bowl is empty like mine.
  6. Read the last paragraph on page 3 above and review the schematic. Putting a switch in the trunk is a good alternative but I elected to go another way.
  7. Statistics don't lie, but its something special to you, and that's all that matters.
  8. The top of page 1 shows how to disable a MSD 6AL box. This method comes directly from their tech line. With the purple wire connected to ground the box will not fire, and it will not harm the box per their technician. This is their preferred method to disable the box. The bottom of page 2 shows how to disrupt the fuel pump. The EFI will not know the pump is off and won't care... of course it can't run without fuel. You don't need to do both but it doesn't hurt. I wouldn't cut the power going to the EFI- they are very finicky and require a line directly to the battery to eliminate all electrical noise. If you want a glitch free ride I would do it this way and leave the wiring to the EFI as they instruct.
  9. In this version, with the washer pump connected as usual, you would turn the key to ON (not start), press the washer for a second, take your hand off the washer and then turn the key to start. If you change the washer pump power source to ignition C and add a fuse, you could turn the key to "on or start" and push the wiper to engage the relay. Either way it only takes a fraction of a second to engage the relay and pole C will hold it on until the key is turned to off. When the relay is on the car will run.
  10. Here is your suggested revision, although it is not without its complications. I used two different CAD programs to draw the schematics. The first was Cadkey, and the second was Solidworks. Cadkey is an easy to use old 2D program, but it can't output to JPG, so I import it to Solidworks to clean up the fonts and export it as a JPG. Then I use Shotwell to resize the JPG, and post it on Imgur. I save the BB code and it appears as below: Now on to the problems with the circuit: 1. I don't like the fact that there isn't a removable key (or magnet), but if that's your preference, then so be it. 2. As you can see, the washer pump is on fuse #1 which is connected to ignition switch A. The problem is that this contact is only ON in "Accessory" and "On". This means you would first need to turn the key to on (not start) and then push the wiper pump. This isn't too big an issue but it would be more convenient if you switched the pump to ignition switch C. Since the ignition circuit is not fused you would need to add a fuse. 3. AW Nuts!!! I just noticed that I have B and C on the ignition switch reversed at pole C on the NO contact. C should be on the left and B on the right in the drawing. This is what holds the relay on. A further complication of this circuit is that a general purpose diode like one previously shown is needed. If you don't add the diode the washer pump will come on, and stay on, as long as the ignition is in Start or On.
  11. The ignition circuit does not have any fuses- apparently they would rather burn up wire than stand someone because of a blown fuse. Since you are pointing at the battery cable connection, I have seen 200 amp fuses placed in the line. The line from the battery to the ignition switch runs the coil through the resistor and isn't normally fused. The resistor is 1.66 ohms on our Mustangs. If you had a 0.6 ohm coil you could expect that combination to be less than 6 amps, so don't go less than 20a.
  12. You should stop by more often Bob, there's some good stuff over here.
  13. I added a post over in the "How Tos" section that tells how to make a magnetic kill switch. Its titled "The Ultimate Kill Switch ?"
  14. I detailed how to make a magnetic kill switch over in the "How Tos" section. Its titled "The Ultimate Kill Switch ?".
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