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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on April 16

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do. With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced) (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.
  2. Wow, how do you rate Mustang Steve's help?
  3. Which one of the classics are you? Whats not to love about a 56!
  4. Talk to FPA. I'm not sure about the rack, but everything else they have covered. I assume you mean AFR instead of bow wow ;)
  5. Sure, everything under the sun degrades. Its electronic and susceptible to heat all sorts of things. I'm sure you'll hear people extolling the virtues and some cussing.
  6. The 70s aren’t exactly like the 69s, but the following should suffice. Fuse #2 is usually only used on Cougars, as they have more “stuff”. My car doesn’t use it but all you have to do is put a fuse in, and it’ll have power whenever the ignition is in Accy or On. My car even has a plug dangling there that is waiting to be used. Wire 19A blue/red stripe coming from fuse #5 (4A) above is for the lights and is on the light switch dimmer circuit. Wires 19a through 19e go to all of those lights listed above. You could tap into one of those wires or get one of those circular clips with a male terminal on the end, that one end of the fuse 5 can clip into. You would want the right side of fuse #5 to take advantage of the fuse. Personally I would tap into the wire, solder and tape over the joint.
  7. Yes 257 should have power. Yes connect to 257 and the other end to chassis- should be around 12vdc. Edit: with the key in Accy or ON As previously stated, fuse 3 will be 30A with AC or 14A if heater only. If you don't have power on 257 (with key on), check both sides of fuse 3 (key on). If the inboard side of fuse 3 doesn't have power, check both sides of fuse 1 (key on). The object here is to ascertain if there is a loose wire on the back side of the fuse block. There is a remote possibility that ignition switch B to A is defective, but that runs lots of things and should be noticeable, especially on a Tach car. FYI, fuse 2 is normally only used by Cougars, as they have more "stuff" that needs power than a Mustang.
  8. I would put in an Eaton Truetrac- try Quick Performance. The EATON Truetrac uses helical gears instead of clutches to perform its limited-slip function.
  9. That's spiffy Ridge!
  10. Some of the older cars do have the system you describe, but 69s do not. Ours is simplicity itself. Probably the easiest place to start is the blower speed resistor. Visually inspect yours to see if the resistor coils are damaged. If you have an ohmmeter you can verify its operation by connecting to the terminals- where should be obvious. If you don't have a meter, just sticking a jumper wire in the back side of the plug will give test results (as described below). This shows the heater circuit in its simplest form as a schematic. Its good that the motor works, so finding the problem should be easier. The circuit driving the motor is identical in cars without air conditioning. Heater only cars just don't use the lower half of the schematic. Above the red line traces the path for Low. Turn the key to Accessory or ON. You can see that it goes through both resistors in low, only the right resistor in medium, and goes directly to the motor in high. Does it work at any speed? If not the switch or fuse 3 could be bad. If it works on HI its one of the resistors or the switch. If it works on medium but not low, its the left resistor or switch. The diagram below is in the How To's section, and will tell you which resistor to jumper. This is page 2-E33 (just look for page 33). Oh, it only uses a 14 amp fuse if you only have the heater, but a 30 amp fuse if you have AC. Turn the ignition to ON or Accy, turn the heater switch to LOW. If it doesn't work, jumper 268 red to 269 blue (that's the left resistor on the schematic). If that doesn't work, jumper 269 blue to 270 black (that's the right resistor on the schematic). If that doesn't work jump 268 red to 270 black and that will bypass both resistors. If you still can't figure it out, tell us your symptoms.
  11. Yeah I've been there and done that, as you know. Time helps, but more than anything, when the time is right for you, find another person to share your life with. Life can be sweet again; maybe bitter-sweet, but sweet. I still think you should try the speed/gear calculator. If I remember correctly my ol' Vette (2001) when in OD is around 2k between 60 and 65.
  12. Hello again, and dang I love that color. An AOD overdrive gear ratio is 0.67:1? Many people prefer a 3.5:1 rear end. Play with a calculator like this to give you an idea: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator
  13. Didn't Ol' Henry say that if you think you can't do it, you're right? GO FOR IT DAVE
  14. The world is surely fortunate that not everyone thinks like an engineer. Several years after my first wife's passing I went on E-Harmony and found my current wife. When she read my bio and it said I was an engineer, she immediately turned the computer off, and didn't boot it up again for two days. Her first husband was an engineer and she didn't want a repeat performance... but fortunately for me, she decided to give me a chance to prove that I was more than just an engineer ;)
  15. Welcome to the forum. Before you reply to a post, you may want to look at the date of the last post- this one is 6 years old ;)
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