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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on February 9

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. 1. From the metal housing to the gauge posts? 2. Again- from where to where? With the ohmmeter leads touching each other what does it read? And when they are separated it reads u/l? 3. You'll need to find someone familiar with the assembly. I've never had mine apart, but have read many cases where a post contacts the metal housing and shorts out. 4. From the metal housing to the gauge posts?
  2. Disconnect the fuel gauge. Use an ohmmeter from chassis to each gauge post- it should be infinite ohms. If it isn't then check that the gauge posts aren't touching the panel and adjust its position if necessary. There is a possibility that the gauge has a short to chassis, in which case you need a new gauge. The line that runs to the fuel sender may have a short to chassis. Disconnect it at the tank and gauge then test with the ohmmeter from chassis to the wire- it must have infinite ohms. Lastly, it could be a short to chassis in the fuel sender.
  3. Oh, that's too bad, he has a 70. So in this case you would replace that line when you refurbish a 70 harness? Phil, you better get in contact with Mid:, he'll fix you up: http://midlifeharness.com/
  4. Yes, that's true Mid, he did say there are no gauges yet (I need to pay more attention), so its a no load condition unless there is a short to chassis. Follow it back to the ignition switch and check for a bad connection, wire, ignition switch- or a dead battery.
  5. There is a 10 ohm resistor wire that is violet in front of the voltage regulator. This lowers the voltage. What happens most often is that one or more gauges (oil, temp, fuel) are removed and when replaced one or more of the gauge posts contacts the metal housing of the panel. If any gauge post contacts the panel it creates a short and the voltage to all the gauges drops and none of them work. That sounds like your problem. The schematic below shows the gauge circuit. You will need an ohmmeter to figure out which one(s) are grounded. Shout if you need help diagnosing further.
  6. Nice car, but I've always heard that the back seat has to be made narrower for minitubs, but you seem to have the stock arm rest panels in the rear, so how much depth did the mini's add? Did you make them?
  7. That's interesting information in the Bilstein video that I'd not seen. I wasn't aware that the gas pressure is used to prevent cavitation in the oil. It sounds like a modified hydraulic shock to me. Eaton Detroit Springs has been in the spring business since the early 1900s and they say our cars were designed for hydraulic, not gas shocks, and will handle better on something like a hydraulic Viking or QA1. This is from a google search of the differences: The shocks absorb the energy of each jostle and dissipate it in the form of heat, reducing the amount of bounce in your ride. ... Gas charged shocks are optimal for high speed driving, as there is no risk of aeration (air mixing with the fluid, causing foam and decreasing performance) like there is with hydraulic shocks. Bilstein does say they were developed for off road racing, and I'm sure not going to be doing any Dukes of Hazzard jumps. Makes me wonder how a Viking would compare to a Bilstein. Is anyone aware?
  8. Ride comfort won't be improved by going from 15 to 17:
  9. We could make all kinds of jokes about wing nuts. Boy Howdy that'll hold it on there good.
  10. If you have a test light ($10 from Autozone) https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/test-light/innova-test-light/186543_0_0 I kinda think its the voltage regulator or alternator, and you can do some basic tests to help figure that out. Most of this is from Woodchuck, who did a pretty good write-up: Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and place a test light between the post and cable. You can hold the test light "probe" to the post with a hose clamp, and clip the alligator clip to the end of the battery ground cable. Make sure the doors are shut and the key is "off". If you have a glowing test light you have a drain somewhere. Start by disconnecting the voltage regulator. If the light goes off you have either a shorted alternator brush or bad regulator. If the alternator warning lamp goes off the minute the engine starts it's probably NOT the alternator but the regulator. Test light still on? Reach in the other side through the window with the door closed and pull up on the brake pedal. If the test light goes off, adjust or replace the brake light switch.
  11. OK, so Bob says to do it like the article, and he has good results, but no doubt your roll cage helps with overall rigidity. Jim, is there anyway to replace the rear torque box without removing the floor, or alternately the rear frame rail? Some of Jim's pictures below:
  12. They look good. I wonder if they are really DOT/SAE approved as they advertise. Since its probably low sales volume and testing/approvals are expensive, I don't recall ever seeing this claim for our 5-3/4 size. The problem is that oncoming traffic could be blinded by an inappropriate beam pattern, and fog or rain could also be an issue. I may bounce this off Stern Lighting just to get his response. Thanks.
  13. I've been wondering the same thing, and I'll bet that Jim (Ridge Runner), Bob (RPM), and others will have suggestions. Below are pictures of two passenger side rear torque boxes: The standard one is above and the convertible below- notice it isn't as wide: I'm wondering how difficult it will be to remove this, since I believe that the hump is visible from inside but the floor overlaps on top around the edge. I would want to save my rear sub frames and not remove them if possible. I don't believe you would get the full benefit of the torque box if you don't go into that area. Notice how the rocker ends further back at the rear wheel well in this example and this isn't a convertible.
  14. That is an odd one, but as Mid said, bad grounds cause all sorts of unexpected things, so I'm with him and check that first. 1. Do you have a VOM? 2. Are the side marker lights and or the license plate light also slightly on? 3. And it doesn't do it with the charger disconnected? 4. Is the voltage regulator the old electro-mechanical type or a new type electronic? 5. Do you have the old alternator or a newer 3G? 6. Any electrical components replaced recently?
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