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Mach1 Driver

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Mach1 Driver last won the day on July 13 2019

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About Mach1 Driver

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    v8 powered poster

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    Atlanta
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    I'm a retired engineer who is the original owner of an unmodified 69 Mach1 351w, H code with an FMX. It was a daily driver for many years and now that I'm retired I intend to restore the car of my youth.

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  1. You may want to rethink that. They recommend the EFI is connected directly to the battery. This helps eliminate electrical noise caused by other circuits. This electrical noise can cause the EFIs electronics to loose its little mind and act erratically, and since its trying to run the engine, that's not a good thing. You will end up chasing ghosts.
  2. Correct, it is a pink resistor wire. However, It is not a fusible link and I've never heard it referred to as one. Fuse links are intended to burn through in high current situations and act as fuses, the pink resistor wire does not have that function. Fuse links are short pieces of wire that are usually sized about two wire gauges smaller than the wire they are connected to. Ford didn't start using fuse links until 1970. I believe Chrysler products still used a ballast resistor at this time, instead of a resistor wire. GM and Ford, in a cost cutting move decided to use the wire they needed to connect to the coil anyway, and deleted the ballast resistor. The length of the pink resistor wire is long enough so that it dissipates the heat that would normally be coming out of the ballast resistor as it drops the voltage. The dropped voltage is dissipated as heat. The circuit operates in this way: the key is turned, the path is closed through ignition switch "B" and out "S" through the neutral safety switch to the starter solenoid "S". The solenoid closes, giving power to the starter motor through the top contact and out through solenoid terminal "I". This bypasses the pink resistor wire and gives you a full 12 volts to the coil to allow for faster starting. As soon as the key is released the path from ignition switch "S" opens, the solenoid turns off, which shuts down the starter motor, and opens "I". The engine then runs normally out through ignition switch terminal "C", through the tach if you have one, otherwise this path is connected directly to the pink resistor wire. This drops the voltage to the coil and points so they last longer.
  3. It shouldn't bounce around that much- there are several very qualified people that can answer this, but they (notice I didn't say me) will need to know the engine specifics: size, carb type, any other recent changes, big lopey cam, what isn't stock, etc. With any luck Barnett will chime in.
  4. West Coast Classic Cougar sells them and has a good video on it too.
  5. Well you already said you're getting spark so its probably not electrical. Are you getting 12V to the coil when starting? If you have a VOM connect one side to chassis and the other to the Bat. side of the coil. See below for the expected voltages. Make sure your battery is topped off. It could be a timing issue, a bad capacitor or point gap. BTW, there are no fusible links on a 69, they started using them in 70. This schematic shows you how it works:
  6. That is so cool! Very impressive. I don't want to steal your thunder, but I found a video showing how its done:
  7. Ok, thanks, so there is an AN fitting to connect two lines
  8. I've been following your posts on VMF in "Holly's Alternative Option for an EFI Fuel System". So you are using Holly's 12-305 which looks like a nice system. Do you have the hard line flared where you attached the EFI fuel hose, or did you just use an EFI clamp?
  9. Its a very clean and neat installation. Since there is no way to run the entire length in one hard line because of the geometries involved, I've often wondered how the lines are connected, thinking some sort of AN fitting was used. Your last pic shows two small connections of fuel hose and the first pic shows flares on the lines. So as long as you clamp the hose behind the flare (and its EFI fuel hose) I presume there won't be a fuel leak issue at EFI fuel pressures? Do some people use some sort of AN fitting for this or is this the more common practice- any idea? Since vibration will always be an issue, the hose sections should help in that regard as well.
  10. Hi Mid. My read on this is that the gauge remains stock- they don't sell a replacement, and there are instructions to calibrate the sender for full and empty. I'm curious how accurate it will be- it seems the capacitance of the fuel changes from tank to tank so it is recalibrated automatically at full. I would guess you don't want to leave the fuel in there for a long time. Adding Stabil will probably do something to the level reading. It has my interest, but there are some unknowns here.
  11. 1. If it clips on and outputs a constant regulated 5v, then that is fine. It will power fuel, oil and water which is ok. 2. I'm not sure what you are saying there. 3. No, just that you need to complete the circuit as they wish. You will be doing that with the clip on regulator (if it outputs a constant 5v), and there is no need to add a 7805 (its probably already in in the clip on regulator) 4. That's OK, I understand and we have the same apprehension. Its just easier for me to find it and fix it if I screw-up. I followed the link on the clip on regulator and that looks fine. I would still get the 12v from the same source as the clip on regulator- it is on in "Accy" and "On". That can be had at fuse #2 as I show. Its not good practice to power up the two sides of the circuit at different times.
  12. Yes 12v is needed to power-up the sender, as is the 5v from the 7805 regulator. The Centroid sender is an electronic device that uses capacitance to sense fuel level, instead of a float moving a rheostat on the stock fuel sender.. Then the Centroid sender mimics the stock sender and provides the correct resistance to ground for the fuel gauge. That is partly why the Centroid sender has a ground connection. Don't try to hook the Centroid sender up withot the 5v regulator in the circuit or you will probably fry something. Do the complete circuit they show (and is in my drawing as well). Any other questions?
  13. You are partially correct. The Radio Shack terminal strip has four vertical strips. For instance, the Vign tap goes to the bottom right screw. That is connected only to the top right screw that goes to the fuse. That is likewise true for the other three strips. What you see in my drawing is a schematic for centroids drawing for which you have a link above. The 7805 regulator takes 12v and converts it to a regulated 5v. Trust me my friend- I'm an electrical engineer. The 12v is applied to the sender (as you stated) and that powers-up the sender and makes it operate. It will then send the proper signal out the "send neg" terminal to drive the fuel gauge. Does that make more sense ?
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