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69RavenConv

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Everything posted by 69RavenConv

  1. Anybody seen the new Ford "MyKey" commercial? I can't find it on line yet but the Ford spokesman's daughter comes home flustered that she can't drive fast, play loud music or get text messages. Dude smiles at the camera and goes back to detailing his '69 Mustang as the camera pans away.
  2. FWIW, my 302 'vert is the same. Oh, and if you install a modern mini-starter, make sure you keep both the starter wire and the solenoid wire away from the exhaust manifold. Ask me how I know.
  3. I have to agree. I guess Shelby (or Ford by 1969) felt the need to make cosmetic changes to draw attention to the performance changes hidden within. For me, an innocuous Cobra badge would have sufficed. Why mess with the iconic Mustang taillights of all things? I love and respect all things Shelby but a sleeper approach would have worked for me. FWIW, I like the '67-'68 a lot more than the '69-'70 (although I would gladly drive and enjoy any of them)
  4. Those valve covers turned out nice. Falcon Sprint 447.
  5. Without digging too deeply into your photos, you may want to consider buying a new set of re-popped rods to go with your new handles. They're not too expensive and you know they're the correct length, etc. Since your handles were missing, there's no guarantee the innards are correct. I replaced my pitted handles with nice re-pops years ago and everything fit well on re-pop doors. I think Scott Drake acquired the company that made my handles so they're probably still using the same tooling.
  6. The wiper shaft has a cam that opens the circuit when it gets to the home position. The dashboard switch is in parallel with the cam switch - if the dash switch is ON there is electricity flowing to the wiper motor all the time, but when it's off, electricity stops when the cam opens the switch in the cowl. It sounds like your cam mechanism or the associated contacts may be open all the time.
  7. I was able to recreate the problem on my laptop by clearing my cache and search history in Google Chrome (if the site is working for you, DON'T do this, because it won't work afterward :) I could access the site by putting this in my browser: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php It also worked in Firefox. I can't explain why this is happening but this may be a workaround for now.
  8. ^This. 69stang.com redirects to 1969stang.com. Try entering 1969stang.com in your browser and see what happens.
  9. Your account is in good standing. You should be able to log on. It's odd that your mobile device is ok but your internet devices are not. Try clearing all caches and histories and check for malware. You may want to try logging on with your one good device and changing your password. I'm at a bit of a loss here but will keep looking. Your screenshot suggests it may be your internet provider issuing the message, not 69stang.com. Keep us posted, we will get it fixed.
  10. Good idea - that sounds like much less trouble than tearing down the box, then rebuilding it.
  11. Q3: I have a similar problem because the hole in the fiberglass housing where the shaft goes through is hogged out - it's now oversize and oval. It gives the shaft side-to-side play which allows the door to to get wedged. If I ever remove the heater box again (not likely) I planned to try installing a brass or nylon bushing. Failing that, replacement fiberglass is available.
  12. aslanefe is right on the money. Both the quarter and door glass are different between '69 and '70, and the reason is because they switched the location of the stainless weatherstrip piece. The easiest way to visualize this is to imagine laying '70 glass on top of '69 glass. They will be the same size, except one will be all glass and the other one will be partially stainless molding. In other words, the glass is a different size but the glass plus stainless makes them both the same, so mixing the two is not possible. I have a set of each and photographed them together, unfortunately my photos suck but give you the gist.
  13. Welcome to the site! Looks like you've got a Metuchen-built car based on the wavy tag ... Going from memory here, I have the book at home...no guarantee these are right* DK GR M Dark Green Metallic paint GT Heavy duty suspension (aka GT suspension) TT Two-tone hood (black out) DE Dual exhaust CL ? RM Racing mirrors MO Rocker moldings HP Hood pins *Buck tags varied from plant-to-plant and were changed on the fly, so there is no definitive definition anywhere. They were a short-hand memo to the assembly workers and used whatever code the plant manager thought was good enough.
  14. Welcome to the forum, Mike. It depends upon the model year and engine. You'll need something like this for a small block: https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-motor-mount-bracket-engine-frame-side-for-1966-plus-style-motor-mounts-pair-small-block-v8-1965-1970/p/EFB8/
  15. Changing spark plugs must be a delight.
  16. Nice restoration! I've said it before but I'm so glad you preserved this rare piece of Mustang history. Nice looking car!
  17. I'd agree about the 1.14 being right for an automatic 302. The size should be embossed on the carb body. I used to see boxes of 2100's at swap meets but as time goes by not so much. FI Fox bodies are the new classics now. I found the following chart on the internet, I can't vouch for it's accuracy. 0.98 = 190 CFM 1.01 = 240 CFM 1.02 = 245 CFM 1.08 = 287 CFM 1.14 = 300 CFM 1.21 = 351 CFM 1.23 = 356 CFM 1.33 = 424 CFM
  18. The 1.08 was correct for a 302 manual transmission car. I think the automatic got a bigger one.
  19. So my car's birthday came and went last week. I was in Minneapolis so I couldn't take her out. I did cruise on Memorial Day. Many more cruises to come. Really hard to believe the ole girl's 50. We started dating when I was 16.
  20. I read she passed away at age 97. Here's a scene from her TV show (She's not in it but I like the car)
  21. I forgot about NAPA's Echlin parts. Used them for years.
  22. Scott Drake makes this reproduction that's probably as good as any. Since we all know reproductions are a crap-shoot in this hobby, I keep a spare handy in case of failure. I've got an older repop on my car that's held up well for several years (knock on simulated wood grain) I don't know if anyone makes a male version, someone else will chime in I'm sure.
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