69RavenConv

Welcome. That car looks like could probably be saved, but as pointed out, it's going to take a lot of work and money. I'd offer less than $10K, since there's no drivetrain and nearly all the sheet metal is bad. As mentioned above, confirm it' what it's advertised to be, not all fastbacks are Mach 1's. It sounds like you've got the right attitude, it's gotta be a labor of love because you will end up upside down on the money and time invested but it can be rewarding if you end up with an old Mustang you enjoy. Not trying to discourage you but go in with your eyes open and know it's going to be a long haul.

LOL, thanks Bob. I've cancelled my next three birthdays so that should slow down the aging a little bit. :)

I retired earlier this year and have the same problem with being busy :) As for the site, there is a software update needed to bring things back to top performance but it seems to have lost momentum.

Yeah, it's a trend. Went to a small local show last August and there was a whole row of late model Mustangs and a few modern hemi's. Some very nice (and very expensive) but not my thing, at least at a cruise-in. I like built over bought, like the old-timer with the flathead-powered deuce that was there.

Awesome, I remember going through the same search.

West Coast Classic Cougar sells what you are looking for. If the link below doesn't work, the assembly is called "Fuse Block Accessory Wire and Bus Bar" There is also a switch on the e-brake pedal that I assume you already have. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/18740/32804/fuse-block-accessory-wire-and-buss-bar-rapro-1969-1973-mercury-cougar-1969-1973-ford-mustang.html

There is an auxiliary post on the fuse block that accepts a yellow pigtail, about 6" long. This is what the brake light bullet connector plugs into for power. Most Mustangs did not need the aux power and did not receive the yellow pigtail, so you'll have to source one or improvise. I thought I had pictures but I can't find any, I'll see if I can dig anything up.

It's a never-ending battle, the bots come back every day, sometimes more that once. We need the forum software upgrade - that should kill the bots and allow the site to be secure again which should fix the "unsafe" warnings and let the "like" feature work again.

Thanks, Ben that sounds like a good plan. Hope everything goes smoothly.

Ok, I misunderstood. I will look at my factory original bow tomorrow. I would assume the strip was glued into the bow but I'm probably wrong.

I still use the OEM which is soft and accepts staples readily. I would expect the replacement to be soft and accept staples like the original, certainly not metal. The front strip was toast on my car and I used a length of plastic body side molding that they sell at any auto parts store and it works well. I see West Coast Cougars sells something similar for the back, you may want to look into a section that? I would assume it's a good size to fit in the rear bow and it's cheap. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13541-Convertible-Rear-Bow-Tack-Strip-BY-THE-FOOT-Repro-1969-1973-Mercury-Cougar-1967-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?srsltid=AfmBOorJr3zqFjs0TQOo6nIBbKcf1dUDXWACH_508LDzTinWagj1aGk1SYU

Google tells me Northwest Mustang is now called Classic LEDs (classicleds.com). I'd probably try to contact them to see if they can replace the flasher. That might also explain your tail light issues.

It might be possible but only @bswor has the super-powers needed to do it.

Welcome back!. Been lusting after one of those lifts myself.:)

Did we forget to lock the back door again?

Welcome to the site! The deluxe, woodgrain dash would have come with the round rally clock. The standard, black dash would have come with the rectangular clock. Both styles could also be ordered with no clock at all. I'm not familiar with any type of square clock in a '69, GT or otherwise.

Please send them home. :)

Very clever!

I just replaced mine this last summer. I tried the sheet metal shim on the OEM and it worked but ended up replacing it with a new one just to be safe. If the new one lasts 50 years like the old one it will be someone else's problem :) My problem was the spring had fatigued to the point I had to stand on the brake pedal to get the lights to come on. The new one lights them with a very light touch. As mentioned above, there is a different switch for power brakes and non-power brakes, so make sure you get the correct one.

Confirm the choke is opening? Any evidence of running rich or lean? I agree about bypassing the resistor wire.

It is according to the label on the one I bought years ago.

It's been a while since I did mine and I remember it is a bit of a Rube Goldberg setup but I'm pretty sure I managed it the way it's shown on the averagejoerestoration.com page. (Sorry, site won't allow me to post the link)

Like just about everybody, I live in an area where mice are a problem in the cold months. I fight them every year but I had a small bit of damage to my vert last winter. This year I'm upping my game but it often feels like a losing battle. But I keep fighting :)

Very likely. Will our new friend come back with a build thread?

Lots of unobtanium parts on a Grande.