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69RavenConv

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Everything posted by 69RavenConv

  1. Here are some pics of my standard interior. The deluxe is the same as far as the white glove box switch is concerned. Welcome to the site!
  2. +1 Dearborn - radiator support Metuchen - inner fender San Jose - none.
  3. Nice car and welcome to the site!
  4. Gas, temperature, and oil pressure all work off the same voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Since only the oil gauge is malfunctioning, it's probably not the cluster. With the key on, if you unplug the wire at the sender and momentarily ground the plug to the engine block, the oil pressure gauge should peg to the H side. Only do this for a moment, don't leave it grounded very long!! If the gauge moves ok, you might need a new sender. If it doesn't move ok, it might be your gauge or wiring that's bad Don't know why it would fog, unless something's getting hot? Stuff getting hot is never good.
  5. First thing do do is measure the actual oil pressure with a real mechanic's gauge (even one from Harbor Freight). If your oil pressure is truly low, stop driving and fix it. If oil pressure is ok (and it sounds like maybe it is since you're driving it around) check your gauge and sender. The gauges on these cars are notoriously untrustworthy, and often old age and previous owners make them worse. There are some easy ways to test, you can google this and other Mustang sites for threads. Do the gas and temperature gauges work ok?
  6. I think it could fetch that to the right buyer - someone like you who can appreciate the survivor angle. Every day, there are fewer and fewer survivors out there. Can't hurt to price it high and see if you get any bites. Good luck and sorry to hear your 're considering selling but I totally understand how life marches on for all of us.
  7. 1. The dual diaphragm advance is generally considered an emissions control and engines can run without it. It just depends upon how "correct" you want restoration to look. In fact, many say you should run without it. 2. Pretty sure the yellow top was in use until at least the early 70's, so it should be correct for your 1970. 3. By 1969 (and maybe earlier) the thermostatic door was in use, so the "after" picture looks right. 4. You didn't ask but I think the oil breather should be black, not engine blue.
  8. Happy birthday to a fellow convertible! (I mean, convertible owner)
  9. I did it again this year -- Birthday came and went and I'm a week late remembering it. She turned 51 on June 4th. I'll take her and the wife out this weekend :)
  10. I hear ya -- surprised even myself when I looked at the date code. I didn't even realize I've had the car on the road that long, LOL I always keep it on a trickle charger, I guess that helped (or I'm just lucky). Picking up the replacement this afternoon,
  11. Yep, I understand perfectly, and that's why I asked. I was just curious if it was the factory who slapped it on funny or a careless restorer. It sounds like it was the factory in both your case and mine. Thanks for the reply
  12. Last time out, engine cranked a little slow. Charged it, tried again, still cranking slow. So it's time for a new battery. It currently has an AutoCraft Platinum from Advance Auto with a date code of 04/08 so I can't really complain about 12 years of service, LOL Autocraft is a Johnson Controls (now Clarios) battery. I'm tempted to replace it with the same. Well, I just looked and the Platinum series is now AGM but they still sell the 750 CCA as the Gold.
  13. You might check with AMK. I'm often surprised by what they reproduce, although it's sometimes hard to find. Might it be these? P/N B-91065
  14. Maybe a stupid question but are you sure the mounting brackets are attached correctly? Here's a pic of my bumper - re-pop bumper with original end caps. I still have the original bumper in good shape (but bad chrome) and the re-pop is a good match
  15. I've never seen a definitive answer but a generally accepted one is that the car was special ordered with a change to the normal trim. It could be a stripe delete on a Grande or a Mach 1, or a different color stripe than what the factory called for, something like that.
  16. Bumping this thread because I just re-watched the video above. I was wondering about some old members who don't visit anymore and ended up on Unfrozen's thread.
  17. Nice looking resto! Curious about the service decal on the inner fender, was it originally sideways or did you do that? The concours geek side of me wants to know.(mine was on the other side, the wrong side, from the factory)
  18. I know I'm late to this thread but I put the same Eaton springs on my '69 vert and they are great.
  19. I saw that too. Bad units are #61196, 61197, or 56371 I guess my old orange ones are ok (#38846). I think I'll use my SnapOns for the safety critical stuff :)
  20. Those one-size-fits-all don't look correct for a '69, or even useful. Mine is plumbed just like Brian Conway's, then secured to the inner fender with strap fittings that snap into holes in the inner fender.
  21. Sounds about right. Buying them together, they should all be from the same batch and the color should be consistent.
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