Kris

I have quite a few sport mirror parts I’m not going to use. The gold mirror is complete and is for the driver side. It is a 71 as the number on the base is D1ZB-17743-B. It is a remote mirror but the adjustment knob is broken off. The back mirror has a tall base and is D00b-17743-AW it needs a mirror. The dark blue and yellow are 69 passenger mirrors and are both C9ZB-17477-AW. The light blue is a driver side and is D0DB-17A703-AW. If you’re interested in any of these hit me up with an offer. I can also media blast any of them for a small fee.

Anyone interested in an original standard interior map light? No rust and functions properly. Tested on my car to verify. Will take $150 plus shipping.

I installed the seal on the back of the window if that’s what you’re asking. I still need to install the weather stripping around the top of my convertible top.

I went with the suesz measurements.

Are you needing the vent panel or the small vertical piece that comes with it? I have the vertical piece I didn’t use with mine. I actually have the whole panel minus the recessed vent section. I cut it out and grafted it into my original.

The temp sensor from what I can tell works. Not sure how accurate it is though. I will take a look at it and verify. Thanks

Thanks. That’s basically what I’m running. I have the Autolite equivalent of the Motorcraft plugs your using. I’m using msd super conductor plug wires that are supposed to be great at reducing emi. I think my O2 sensor is part of my problem along with it running rich overall. The car will idle in closed look but will eventually start to run rough when the plugs foul due to running rich. When I’m open loop it will only run for 30 seconds or so and then die. I’ve fully checked the exhaust and intake systems for leaks and have corrected them all. I used the shop vac with soapy water method and also used a smoke machine to pump smoke into the exhaust and intake and have no leaks. I’m going to talk to Holley again today and see what hey say. I have a 302 that is bored over but I’ve been keying it in as a 302 on the handheld. The tech at Holley said that’s fine. To me if that was the issue it would be running lean not rich.

What spark plugs are you guys running with your sniper setups? I currently have Autolite 45 copper plugs. They are resister plugs like they are supposed to be and I have MSD super conductor wires. I finally got it to run and idle by running it in closed loop but it still runs rich. The tech guy I spoke to at holly thinks I need to run a different plug.

Easiest way I know of is to use a pair of pliers and squeeze the back of the clip and the back of the bracket or cable and it will just pop on.

You can buy replacement terminals and rebuild your fuse block. Would be safer than rigging it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuse-box-repair-kit-1965-1969/p/HW2906/

Mine probably worked because I’m using a vintage air kit. It must have more room behind the glove box. I’m using my original factory non ac insert.

I went with vintage air in my car. I was able to use my original non ac glovebox liner. If I remember correctly I had to trim a small piece off the back side of the liner that isn’t noticeable when it’s installed.

My new idle air controller came in today. Put it on and still have the same problems. They only way it will stay running is if the idle air screw is bottomed out. Once it’s running if you adjust it more than a 1/4 turn out it falls on its face and dies. Talked to Holley tech support for another couple hours and they think something internal is defective. They’re sending me a shipping label so I can send it back for them to go through and determine the issue. Hopefully it’s something they can fix as they don’t have any replacement units to send me. They are on back order till the end of August.

I was thinking of painting them black so that works. Thanks

I have the splash shield and will be installing it. Rpm, where did you cut a wedge in it to make it fit better?