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Kris

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Kris last won the day on July 19

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About Kris

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 11/01/1980

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  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Occupation
    Industrial Maint.

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  1. Progress was a little slow the last month or so. I injured my right hand and couldn’t really use it. Back to 100% now and making progress. I put the motor and trans back in yesterday. Today I installed the power steering, tri-y long tube headers, and the ac compressor / brackets. Also finished up some wiring, and installed the heater hoses.
  2. First time painting a car. I’ve painted a couple motorcycles when I was younger.
  3. Are you using standard bulbs or LED’s?
  4. Original ones have a tube that is inside the torque box that goes straight up to the hole. Did you replace your torque box too?
  5. This weekend I finished final prep on the fenders before pain. I also installed the fuel lines, drilled the hood for a Mach 1 style scoop, drilled the doors for mirrors, and painted then installed the hood hinges.
  6. There’s a salvage yard in Tulsa called fraileys that has a bunch of 67-70 cougars they are parting out. They may have one. I’ve been meaning to go by there and see what they have but haven’t had the time.
  7. Not sure about a 70, but I’m pretty sure there is no grommet in the floor. The cable goes through the floor into a tube in the torque box and comes out the back of it. My 69 didn’t have a grommet. There is a rubber piece of hose on the cable but that’s it.
  8. The convertible frame for 1969-70 is not reproduced so you will have to track down an original one. They are pretty hard to find and usually sell for 500-2000 from what I’ve seen. The best source I can think of is ebay or a classic mustang salvage yard. There’s a few parts on eBay currently but no full frames. The top off a 1969-70 cougar will also work but is still hard to come by.
  9. The messed up switches are actually fixable. I’ve don’t it a couple of times. Must of the time the only thing that happens is the copper strip gets pushed out of the little channel causing it to stay in contact with the other side. If you just pull the strip out and feed it back through it will typically work as long as the copper isn’t bent.
  10. Depending on what your ac needs it may be cheaper to replace it. Classic auto air has a kit that looks very similar to what you have. It’s a little on the pricy side and why not upgrade to the in dash unit at that cost if you have to. Your upper controls should be an easy fix. Your cables are probably broken or locked up. https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/
  11. My guess on your frozen switch is the cable that operates it is bad. If your controls the factory installed ones there is nothing to them so it could only be the cable. If you go with vintage air or classic auto air they reuse your factory non ac gauges. All the cables that originally operated them are deleted also.
  12. Even if you welded it to the lip like your thinking of it will more than likely cause the paint in the trunk to peel above it due to the heat from welding. I would just drill out the spot welds and replace it properly rather than try to do a patch job on something structural. Once you cut it out I’m sure the rust is worse than you can actually see as it usually always is. Depending on how your trunk is “finished” you can always have the paint matched and blend it and a trunk mat will cover it also.
  13. That’s what I was wanting to do was put the relays in the engine bay but with the connectors they won’t fit and I’m not going to spend time pulling the wires out of the connector. I’ll just mount them under the dash where I can still reach them.
  14. Ok now it makes since. Thanks for all the help.
  15. Ok Got it figured out. My directions are incomplete and the relays are suppose to stay inside the car. Only the circuit breaker goes through the wall and that wire can be disconnected so it can fit through.
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