Kris

The strip itself is rubber and I have it. The strip itself was originally stapled to the metal bow it sits in to hold it in place. Then the convertible top is stapled to the rubber strip.

What have you guys with convertibles done to attach a new tack strip to the rear convertible frame bow? My tack strip was basically dust so it had to be replaced. I know it was originally stapled. I have heavy duty staples and an air stapler. The staples either bend or brake and don’t penetrate the metal like the originals were. I’m considering drilling and using countersunk rivets but wanted to see what others have done first.

The switch you have is for a c4 and bolts on the side of the trans between the shifter bracket and trans. The fmx neutral safety switch has the shifter light built in while the c4 switch and light are two separate parts. On a c4 setup, the light wire goes through the shifter like the picture I added. The neutral safety switch wire goes down the tunnel and up the firewall to the plug at the center of the firewall by the gauge feed wires.

They reproduce this unless you’re looking for original only.

Looks nice. I had my visor brackets and interior windshield headed powder coated black. To me with all the trim around the sides of the windshield being black it looked off having it be chrome at the top.

I put dynamite under my carpet in my convertible. I’ve been contemplating putting it in my doors. Where did you put yours in the door and how much did you use?

I installed my reproduction handles recently and had the exact same issue. From everything I saw online the part you are talking about that comes on reproduction handles won’t work for a 69-70. I had to take that part off of my original door handles and put them on the new ones. After they that they worked perfect. I believe it’s because the repro handles are sold as being for 65-66 & 69-70. My guess is the mechanism on the back is for a 65-66 which is why it won’t work for our cars even though the rest of the handle is the same.

I have quite a few sport mirror parts I’m not going to use. The gold mirror is complete and is for the driver side. It is a 71 as the number on the base is D1ZB-17743-B. It is a remote mirror but the adjustment knob is broken off. The back mirror has a tall base and is D00b-17743-AW it needs a mirror. The dark blue and yellow are 69 passenger mirrors and are both C9ZB-17477-AW. The light blue is a driver side and is D0DB-17A703-AW. If you’re interested in any of these hit me up with an offer. I can also media blast any of them for a small fee.

Anyone interested in an original standard interior map light? No rust and functions properly. Tested on my car to verify. Will take $150 plus shipping.

I installed the seal on the back of the window if that’s what you’re asking. I still need to install the weather stripping around the top of my convertible top.

I went with the suesz measurements.

Are you needing the vent panel or the small vertical piece that comes with it? I have the vertical piece I didn’t use with mine. I actually have the whole panel minus the recessed vent section. I cut it out and grafted it into my original.

The temp sensor from what I can tell works. Not sure how accurate it is though. I will take a look at it and verify. Thanks

Thanks. That’s basically what I’m running. I have the Autolite equivalent of the Motorcraft plugs your using. I’m using msd super conductor plug wires that are supposed to be great at reducing emi. I think my O2 sensor is part of my problem along with it running rich overall. The car will idle in closed look but will eventually start to run rough when the plugs foul due to running rich. When I’m open loop it will only run for 30 seconds or so and then die. I’ve fully checked the exhaust and intake systems for leaks and have corrected them all. I used the shop vac with soapy water method and also used a smoke machine to pump smoke into the exhaust and intake and have no leaks. I’m going to talk to Holley again today and see what hey say. I have a 302 that is bored over but I’ve been keying it in as a 302 on the handheld. The tech at Holley said that’s fine. To me if that was the issue it would be running lean not rich.

What spark plugs are you guys running with your sniper setups? I currently have Autolite 45 copper plugs. They are resister plugs like they are supposed to be and I have MSD super conductor wires. I finally got it to run and idle by running it in closed loop but it still runs rich. The tech guy I spoke to at holly thinks I need to run a different plug.