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Kris

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Kris last won the day on September 9 2021

Kris had the most liked content!

About Kris

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 11/01/1980

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  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Occupation
    Industrial Maint.

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  1. Easiest way I know of is to use a pair of pliers and squeeze the back of the clip and the back of the bracket or cable and it will just pop on.
  2. You can buy replacement terminals and rebuild your fuse block. Would be safer than rigging it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuse-box-repair-kit-1965-1969/p/HW2906/
  3. Mine probably worked because I’m using a vintage air kit. It must have more room behind the glove box. I’m using my original factory non ac insert.
  4. I went with vintage air in my car. I was able to use my original non ac glovebox liner. If I remember correctly I had to trim a small piece off the back side of the liner that isn’t noticeable when it’s installed.
  5. My new idle air controller came in today. Put it on and still have the same problems. They only way it will stay running is if the idle air screw is bottomed out. Once it’s running if you adjust it more than a 1/4 turn out it falls on its face and dies. Talked to Holley tech support for another couple hours and they think something internal is defective. They’re sending me a shipping label so I can send it back for them to go through and determine the issue. Hopefully it’s something they can fix as they don’t have any replacement units to send me. They are on back order till the end of August.
  6. I was thinking of painting them black so that works. Thanks
  7. I have the splash shield and will be installing it. Rpm, where did you cut a wedge in it to make it fit better?
  8. I’m fixing to install my rear bumper and was curious as to what everyone has done for the color. Did you paint the most color or just black? I’m not sure if they are visible at all as my rear bumper was already removed when I purchased the car.
  9. My tps sensor was bad and wouldn’t zero. They replaced that and still had issues. The guy today had me to quite a bit more tests and he was a little stumped too. He finally had me turn the idle screw in and uncap the vacuum port on the back so it could get more air. Did that and checked my idle air reading and noticed it wasn’t working properly. Hopefully this will fix my issue. He was going to send me a whole new unit but they are on back order until end of august- September. He said due to supply shortage they can’t get the parts to make any new ecu’s.
  10. I spent 2 hrs on the phone with Holley tech support for a second time and they determined my idle air controller is bad. They’re shipping me another one so hopefully this will fix my problem.
  11. I pulled all the plugs already and cleaned them yesterday. There were all black with carbon buildup. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install a relay so the voltage will have less chance of fluctuating. When I metered the green/red wire with a fully charged battery, it still has fluctuation when cranking. It was still within the Holley suggested range but it’s more of a drop than straight off the battery so a relay should help with that.
  12. I went through my exhaust system and found the Holley o2 sensor flange to be the only thing leaking. It was leaking all the way around the gasket. I took my headers off and welded the plate directly to it. Went back through and found no leaks using the shop vac and soapy water method after I reinstalled the header. I didn’t get a chance to start it tonight as it was getting late and my battery was a little low from cranking. I’ll put it in the charger tomorrow and see how it works now that there isn’t an exhaust leak directly at the o2 sensor. I have a factory wiring harness. I’m running a msd box and msd pro billet distributor. Non of that is tied in with the pink Holley wire.
  13. My bullet connector off the voltage regulator is green with a red stripe. That’s what I was using and the voltage seemed adequate but it would run then die. When I connect pink wire straight to the battery it runs good. The Holley only has a red wire that goes straight to the battery positive. Unless your using the additional connector for other inputs / outputs. If you have another wire it must be from a different device you have.
  14. The only thing I can think of or find is possibly interference coming through the log wiring that’s affecting it at the bullet connector. My voltage at that connector is fine and the sniper display never flickers at all. It will just start and die when connected to that connector. If yours is working with that there’s no reason mine shouldn’t. What think red and thin black wires are you talking about? If you have any pictures of how you have that hooked up too that would be great. I’m considering running another relay to power the switched 12v ecu power if I have to. I wanted to see what others with 69 mustangs have done with their sniper systems for this wire before I do that though.
  15. I installed a Holley sniper system on my car and I’ve been fighting it for 2 weeks now. It will crank and run great for 2-15 seconds then die. It will flood itself out and won’t start back, just crank and crank. I had the pink ecu signal wire connected to a bullet connector on the passenger side that has has a green wire with red stripe. At the bullet connector I get 12v on run and 10-12v while cranking. I though I had a timing or distributor issue but I disassembled it tonight and it’s perfect. I decided to connect the pink wire directly to the battery to test if this was the issue after doing hours of reading and research online and it fired right up and ran perfect for 2 minutes when I finally killed it. It also started back perfectly each time I tried it afterwards. So my question is where should I connect the pink signal wire to since the bullet connector doesn’t seem to work even though the voltage seems correct. It needs to be a 12v crank and 12v run and dead when the key is off.
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