Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CarZombie

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 08/28/1955


  • Biography
    Own a 70 Mustang convertiable with 351C engine with the 4 barrel heads. Color is Black Jade Poly.
  • Location
    Brunswick, Ga
  • Interests
    Shooting and cars
  1. Here is a link to a thread on this problem, which also contains a link to a thread I started. A little bit of a synopsis of the threads. Low battery can cause turn signal problems. Dirty connector in the fuse box will cause problems. Bad bulb can cause problems. Poor grounds will case problems. I have had all of them both together and separate. . So I would suggest, charge the battery, clean the clips which hold the turn signal fuse in place and check your grounds. I hope this helps. Please let us know what fixes the problem. Electrical problems are the worst and we are dealing with 50 year old wires and connectors. My apologizes if you have already reviewed these threads.
  2. Just wanted to let every one know that I installed the carb on my Mustang about two weeks ago. It fired right up on fast idle. Once warm I adjusted the idle screws to get a smooth idle and drove it. No problems. Easy. I want to thank Daytona Parts Company for the carb kit and more importantly Tim at Daytona Parts for all the tech help he provided to me before and during the rebuild process. I also want to mention that I used a new float in this rebuild from Mike's Carburetor Parts. Never had to call them, but the float fit right and seems to be working. Hopefully it will end the problem I had with the old float taking on gas and screwing up the float level. I have no interest in these business just hope that some one, some day finds this thread helpful.
  3. barnett468 and Vicfreg, thanks for the replies. barnett468 was correct, the ball went where I was pointing. The folks that sold me the carb rebuild kit, called me and confirmed this. Sorry for the slow reply. Just my luck, I put the crab back together and found that I let the throttle auxiliary lever get out of position so it would correctly interact with the throttle stop lever and other parts of the choke linkage. I had to pull the throttle body off the main body and one of the thread holes in the main body stripped. So now I have to do a thread repair before I can see if my rebuild went well.
  4. I am rebuilding my 4300 DOOF-AD carb for a 1970 Mustang with 351C, 4 barrel heads, AC and Automatic trans. As I was taking the carb apart a small ball dropped out of the main body. I am using a Dayton Parts rebuild kit and neither their exploded view/parts list, nor my shop manual's exploded view, shows this ball. However, the ball is in the Dayton Parts kit. I have an email on this question to them, but I am hoping for an answer this weekend, so I can get the rebuild finished and on the car. It is NOT the accelerating pump inlet ball check (that's straight out of the Ford shop manual). The picture labeled Pic 2 questioned ball shows the ball in question. I believe it goes into an orifice next to the orifice that the accelerator pump discharge valve goes into. The photo labeled Picture 3 show a wooden pointer pointing to were I think this ball goes. The photo labeled Picture 3 is an overview of the top of the main body. If anyone can confirm my thoughts or give me more information on proper placement of this ball, I would appreciate it. PS. Sorry about the picture label mix-up.
  5. Mike's Carburetor parts has a repo for the float: http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Motorcraft-4300-Float_p_3527.html Found it by using Duck, Duck, Go Only found one other list for this float and it was about twice as much. Still would like answers/opinion on other two questions.
  6. 1970 with 351 Cleveland motor (4 barrel heads), AC, with a Autolite Model 4300 Carb. It was rebuilt in Mid-2014 and was working fine up to Late Dec of 2017. It was rebuilt using a Daytona Parts kit. I choose them because they specifically said there stuff was ethanol compatible. Last 3 times I tried to drive the car, in Jan/Feb 2018, It would not idle or drive worth a damn. It appears to be running way to rich. Both with choke and with out. Car was driven about 1500 miles in Dec. Annual mileage typically runs about 1200 miles a year. I know I should drive it more. Questions: 1. How long are carbs lasting between rebuild in this age of ethanol? 2. The guy who rebuilt and tuned the carb said the float was taking in gas and suggest finding a new one. Of course, I keep putting it off. Does any one know of a vendor selling floats for this carb? 3. I have used fuel stabilizers is gas power tools, but not in my car. Has anyone used them in their Mustang and did it made a difference? Thanks.
  7. I just finished fixing problem turn signals. Hope this thread helps: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/54895-turn-signal-dont-work-with-headlights-on/
  8. Post scrip to this post: I ordered a driver side front running light from Mustangs Unlimited. They call it the driver side parking light. Prior to attaching it to the car, I tested it by plugging it in and grounding it. It did not work correctly with the headlights on. Without headlights, turn signal worked, but turn on the headlights or running lights and no turn signal. Turns our the bulb shipped with the parking light was bad. I replaced it with another bulb and all lights are working correctly. Luckily I remembered how the bad bulb screwed with me when I was determining the original unit was bad. I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS, but it is soooo nice to be driving my Mustang again.
  9. Again thanks to all who replied to this thread. I am 95% sure the problem is fixed. As I said in my 30 April post, I charged the battery and then cleaned the battery terminals and grounds associated with the battery. Using the wiring diagram and an old wiring harness I had from a parts car (1970 Mustang Fastback). I found three under hood grounds and cleaned them. The first is a ground by the passenger side horn. My parts car wiring harness clearly showed this to be the original factory ground for the headlights, running lights, and turn signals. I had added a second ground, by the driver side horn, years ago, and I cleaned this also. The third under hood ground is located just to the right of the driver side engine compartment brace at the top of the firewall. I am not sure if this is an original ground , as it may have been added when I switch to electronic ignition. I don't believe it is part of the lighting system, but what the heck I was there and it was there, so it got cleaned. The final ground for the lighting system is located in the trunk and is attached to the trunk brace surrounding the gas tank fill neck. Here is where the 95% part comes in. While testing the lights, everything was working correctly, but the driver side front running light, the one under the headlight, stop working. To make a long story short, after testing, complicated by having a bad bulb, I determined the running light had gone bad. I could switch the running lights from side to side and the bad one would not work on the passenger side, but the good one would work on the driving side. I have ordered a new front running light. When I install it and everything works, then I will call it done. So, it appears the problem was a low battery, possibly dirty grounds, and a possible intermediate problem with the driver side running light which went totally bad at the end. This is why I HATE electrical problems. Once again I have learned to always check simple stuff first. Now I know to check the battery charge before diagnosing a problem. If anything changes when I install the new running light, I will let you'll know, but for now I again thank you for the help.
  10. Thanks Mach1 D and R: The car has the stock electrical system. No LEDs, no high power headlights. I checked the battery and it was at 11.5 with the car off. I know that is low, for fun I checked at the fuse box and it was only showing 8.5. I hooked up my battery charger and switched it to the jump mod, 50 AMP, and I the turn signal worked with the headlights on. So I have the battery charging (the car had been sitting for a while). I also pulled the battery and cleaned the terminals and cables. I found the ground from the battery. I is grounded on the engine, with a cable running from the engine to the chassis. I replaced the cable grounding the chassis and cleaned each ground contact point. (the engine and chassis). I will see if this fixed anything tomorrow. Does anyone know where the ground points are for the headlights and the front running lights? The wiring diagram shows ground points for these, but not there physical location on the car. I don't know how to locate them with in the wiring harness. I would like to check and clean these points also. Thanks again.
  11. Sorry, forgot to say the Car is a1970 convertible and both the front/back, left/right turn signals are affect (or is it effected) by this.
  12. My turn signals work with the headlight switch off or in the parking light position, but if I turn the headlights on, the turn signals stop working (both left and right). I actually saw this happen. The headlights were on and I was testing the turn signals. As I watched, the turn signal slowed down and then stopped. They were working ok immediately before this. I did a Continuity Test on the headlight switch and it seems to be functioning correctly. Searching the past electrical problem threads tells me someone is going to suggest checking the grounds, if so please tell me where to find the ground points, and which ground points are the most important, if there is such a thing. Thanks
  13. Got some electrical problems with my 1970 Mustang, but at this time not ready to ask for advice on the problems. I need advice on what type of tester to get more fully ID the problems. 1. Any recommendations on what to look for someone who knows nothing about electrical stuff, other than it is 12 volts and is negative ground. Seriously, I have a weak understanding of what I would need in a test unit and what the various tests show me. 2. A recommendation of a specific unit? 3. Some general pointers on how to use a test unit ? 4. Finally some other sites, threads, or videos that might be helpful. Thanks in advance.
  14. Many years ago my antenna broke just above the base. There is enough metal that I was able to drill it fit it over the stud of the remaining antenna on the base. I then drilled a hole in the side of the antenna and used a set screw to hold it in place. This is actually pretty nice, because I can remove the antenna when I run the Mustang through a car wash. So, you could cut the antenna, drill it like I did and then remove it when you want to put the car cover on. The antenna still telescopes. If you would like pictures either PM me or ask for them in the thread.
  15. If you just want a modern blade assembly, the Trico will work. If you want to replace the arm (part coming off the wiper motor) and blade, then someone else will have to offer advice.
  • Create New...