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bigmal last won the day on March 14 2022
bigmal had the most liked content!
About bigmal
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Rank
v8 powered poster
Profile Information
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Gender
Not Telling
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Location
Sydney, Australia
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Interests
Shooting, fishing, herping, working on the Stang.
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I would be concerned running it without the drive shaft yoke in place. While I like the idea I don't know enough about any damage it could cause or fluid loss. Thanks
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Thanks Bob, will give it a go
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Hi mate, all mounts have been replaced. No noticeable difference
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Hi mate, thanks for the response The driveshaft is custom made by Hardy Spicer with new universals. The previous shaft was a replacement and turned out to be bent and out of balance. Changing made no differnce. As far as I know the diff is in good condition. No noises and traction lock function well. Rear brakes are drum. I haven't run with the wheels off yet but will try that on the weekend. For some reason removing and replacing the drive shaft has made it worse. I did remove the cross member and rear shock mount to remove the FMX extension housing but there is only one way to replace it. I will check that the pinion angles are still matched.
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Hi mate, yes a new tailshaft/driveshaft. I had the same problem with the previous driveshaft which is why I've replaced it with new good quality uni's. I must be close because what ever I did has affected the vibration (worse). Actually to the point where I am afraid to sit at that speed for fear of throwing the driveshaft. As I have disturbed the rear shock mount I will check the pinion angles again just to make sure nothing has changed. Juts need to be away from it for a few days.
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Well, an update. I had a new bushing fitted to the rear of the transmission, as suggested. There was a little play, and I was happy to eliminate this. Not only did it not fix it, it's now worse. This is doing my head in. It's not an issue with how I mounted the rear uni, as I triple checked it. I have to be close, as it's something I've disturbed. Both uni's are new and fitted by a reputable company. I'm thinking of taking the tail shaft back and getting them to check the balance and uni's.
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When I replaced the flex plate that I had damaged I told the engine shop bloke that I had replaced it. He said If I bring the old and new flex plates he can balance against the old. I had already thrown it out. Still kicking myself.
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I've just jacked the car and confirmed that there is up and down play in the yoke going into the rear of the transmision. On the weekend I will get the rear out and have the bushing replaced. I'll report back once I have an outcome. Thanks for all your help
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You are getting a little out of my area of knowledge here. The internals were supplied including harmonic balancer and flex plate. Pistons and rod were balanced separately. I understand the crank was balanced with the flex plate and harmonic balancer in place. The old flex plate had some metal remover during the process. Not a lot.
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Both the flex plate and harmonic balancer are new. When I told the company that internally balanced my engine that I had then replaced the flex plate afterwards, they said it should be balanced again. The engine vibration is not that significant, but something I would like to tackle at some point. Thanks.
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Sounds great. I will replace it regardless so at least its eliminated. I just need to source a bush.
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I'll be checking that first thing on the weekend. As I'm not a transmission man, just confirming I need to drain the oil, remove the housing, and a press to change the bushing? Assuming its worn.
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Don't be sorry. I'm really glad to have the input. The angles are parallel. Car on stands, digital protractor set to zero on the pulley and taken to the diff is also zero. As I haven't checked the car is level, I can't say what the true angles are, just that they both match.
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No, that's something I haven't checked. The yoke appears to be in good nick and I've replaced the seal so there are no leaks, but I haven't checked for a worn bushing. That is new territory for me. Is it easily replaced? I'm getting a little excited....
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Hi mate, I am using a digital protractor and I set zero on the front pulley. Then when I take it to the rear pinion it is also zero. Makes it a little simpler then using maths :) Yes, using wedge shims. I have 4 sizes 1, 2, 3 and 4 deg. I didn't know what tolerance was acceptable so used trial and error.