Jump to content
dbmac

Anti-theft for these old classic cars?

Recommended Posts

What are you all using to secure your classic Mustang? I love the classic '69 with the key on the dash, but that thing is trivial to steal with no steering column lock. The Club and similar are all limited by by the steering wheel which is easy to cut. What do you use to let you park it somewhere without sitting in it the whole time? I'm dying to take her out for the day but dreading leaving her parked all by herself... Its like leaving your toddler alone and telling her to "stay by the stroller"... ugh. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The above is the easiest way to add a kill switch. For the engine to run the points must open and close for the magnetic field in the coil to build up and collapse and thus produce a high voltage spark. The kill switch when closed makes it act as though the points aren't opening. I wouldn't worry about the coil overheating if the ignition is left on with the switch closed- this condition exists normally if the points are closed and the ignition is left on. That happens eight times for every revolution of the distributor, so it is quite possible that the engine is stopped with the points closed. I've used this method for over 50 years with no problem. If you want to get a little more exotic you can look up other methods right here on this forum- like using a magnetic reed switch ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! I was thinking about the neutral safety switch, I have a manual with a new Painless harness that still has it. But that's too easy to bypass under the hood. I like your idea - not expected and harder to find. Thanks!

Others? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a electric gas valve with a hidden pushbutton.  You can also do it with the method RPM suggested.  For my gas valve, I must push the pushbutton every time the car is started, either immediately before or after the car is started.   You can hide the pushbutton in a lot of places.  

A great option you can also do is to use an existing switch already in the car to latch a relay and turn on your gas valve or the idea of RPM. You can put a latching relay in it, so it only needs to be on for a half second. After that, it stays on until the car is shut off.   That means you need to hit the switch every time the car is started, but you never need to remember to turn it on when you leave the car. 

Your button  to enable the car to start could be the windshield washer, turn signal, horn or other switches already in the car.  Every time you get in the car to start it, you put the key in the ignition,  turn it on, and push the washer button, toot the horn or flash the turn signal to latch the relay so you can drive it like normal.  If the washer, turn signal, or horn button is not pressed before turning the key to the run position, the car will not start. 

I can explain the latching relay if you want to consider this method.  

The idea of tooting the horn every time you want to start the car is kind of annoying, and the washer pump will squirt on your windshield.  So the turn signal is least obnoxious. Turn the turn signal lever on every time you get in the car, and the car will start just like normal.  

With an electric gas valve, I can press the button after the car is started.  Otherwise it will run out of the gas in the carb and stall.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/23/2020 at 10:38 AM, Boss429Dreamer said:

I saw a video where the owner just removes the rotor under the distributor cap.

That is what I used to do back in the 80's when I had a modified 68 GT Coupe. I would even put the dist cap back on & pop the retainer clips back on to make it look like I did not fool with it. No one would ever think to remove the dist cap to look for a missing rotor.

100_1154.thumb.jpg.69e3e20dad5c17b56ad1e0bae760cfb9.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bah.  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it with me when I go into the store. 

If someone wants to use a wrecker to haul the car off, nothing can stop that (with the exception of a metal device that spits out metal or a trunk monkey).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am using MSD 6AL and it has a ground wire. I'm hoping to wire it to the cigarette lighter, so you pull it out to run. Hoping the Mustang boosters won't notice a cigarette lighter pushed in when they come calling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/23/2020 at 10:05 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

The above is the easiest way to add a kill switch. For the engine to run the points must open and close for the magnetic field in the coil to build up and collapse and thus produce a high voltage spark. The kill switch when closed makes it act as though the points aren't opening. I wouldn't worry about the coil overheating if the ignition is left on with the switch closed- this condition exists normally if the points are closed and the ignition is left on. That happens eight times for every revolution of the distributor, so it is quite possible that the engine is stopped with the points closed. I've used this method for over 50 years with no problem. If you want to get a little more exotic you can look up other methods right here on this forum- like using a magnetic reed switch ;)

Question....If you have Fuel Injection, could you disconnect the power to the fuel pump instead of putting the switch between the Dist and Coil, or maybe in addition to it?

Also I have read that if you have replaced your points with a Petronix Ignitor, leaving the key in the "ON" position without having the engine running for extended periods can cause the coil to overheat, and 'cook' the Ignitor. Always ensure that the engine is running when the key is switched to "ON", otherwise use the "Accessories" position for use of other electrical components (e.g. Radio, CB, 12V source etc). A "key left on" situation is not covered by the warranty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not aware of a safe way to disable Pertronix (that doesn't cause more problems)... there is for MSD. Yes I would disable the fuel pump. Too much is never enough for me- I lock the hood, disable the ignition, fuel, lock the transmission and have GPS ;)

But even then a tow truck can drag it away on the front wheels, so I tend to back into parking spots. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get my Stang.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rich Ackermann said:

Question....If you have Fuel Injection, could you disconnect the power to the fuel pump instead of putting the switch between the Dist and Coil, or maybe in addition to it?

Also I have read that if you have replaced your points with a Petronix Ignitor, leaving the key in the "ON" position without having the engine running for extended periods can cause the coil to overheat, and 'cook' the Ignitor. Always ensure that the engine is running when the key is switched to "ON", otherwise use the "Accessories" position for use of other electrical components (e.g. Radio, CB, 12V source etc). A "key left on" situation is not covered by the warranty.

Instead of grounding the wire to the points, you can just turn off the power to the coil.  The problem with that is that if the car is hotwired to start, the way this is done is to put a cable between the battery + and the coil +.  So putting a switch in would serve no purpose for this.

If you have fuel injection, then shutting off the fuel pump is the obvious choice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, danno said:

Instead of grounding the wire to the points, you can just turn off the power to the coil.  The problem with that is that if the car is hotwired to start, the way this is done is to put a cable between the battery + and the coil +.  So putting a switch in would serve no purpose for this.

If you have fuel injection, then shutting off the fuel pump is the obvious choice.

Yep.They typically use a jumper wire from the battery to the coil positive post, then use a screw driver to short from the solenoid positive post to the start terminal and its gone in less than 60 seconds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Midlife said:

Bah.  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it with me when I go into the store. 

If someone wants to use a wrecker to haul the car off, nothing can stop that (with the exception of a metal device that spits out metal or a trunk monkey).

This shits funny every time I read it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a GPS tracker which has remote disable functions.

I had already fitted an electric fuel shutoff because I believed fuel was draining out of the carby when parked without starting for a few weeks. I also have an electric fuel pump at the fuel tank. Incidentally, it's still a prick to start if left for more than two weeks.

If the car is towed, turned on or battery disconnected I get a text and email. I open the app and it shows the cars location and if moving. I can then click 'Disable'. Options include Immediately or <10mph (to avoid an accident). I have the disable connected to my fuel shutoff. The car will run for until the carby is out of fuel but the pump can still be heard running so the asshole is not aware of what is happening, All it needs is a 'Release Trunk Monkey' function.

The map also shows the cars route. This is an Australian service with an annual subscription (Mustrack) which is quite cheap. Not sure what's available in the US.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, bigmal said:

This is an Australian service with an annual subscription (Mustrack) which is quite cheap. Not sure what's available in the US.

That looks pretty good, but it doesn't appear to be available here in the US

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/23/2020 at 8:01 PM, danno said:

I have a electric gas valve with a hidden pushbutton.  You can also do it with the method RPM suggested. 

I've heard of some guys doing both. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Dave R. said:

The hood latch for a 1976 era Ford truck bolts right into our Mustangs and has a key lock on the release handle in the passenger compartment. You will need a helper spring to pop the hood up, but a quick trip to the junk yard will get you one. The spring mounts in the center of the hood near the latch. It all looks factory, cause it is, just for another model. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have EFI and installed a switch for the fuel pump. It actually comes in handy when working on the car as well. I can power up the ECU without constantly charging the fuel system. Simple setup with minimal wiring. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...