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69Stanger408

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69Stanger408 last won the day on January 20

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About 69Stanger408

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  1. I have EFI and installed a switch for the fuel pump. It actually comes in handy when working on the car as well. I can power up the ECU without constantly charging the fuel system. Simple setup with minimal wiring.
  2. She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun
  3. Recommendations to affix the MUSTANG letters to the rear deck lid. The "A" was loose and came off when detailing. I purchased the female receiver barrels that go in the hole but the pins on the "A" appear to be too thick to insert (the letters are original). Don't want to force anymore as I don't want to damage anything. Thoughts?
  4. Tinman, didn't know this was you. I followed you home a few months ago, I was checking out the rear flip windows on your original for fitment in comparison with mine. Small world.
  5. Traded my in at harbor freight, replacement 6 ton cost me $0.02 more. Replaced two sets, out for a nickel
  6. Is this just supposed to sit freely on the rear end with no attaching point?
  7. I used Dynocorn panels, best out there (closest to original). Doors, valance (front and rear), and quarters
  8. I do have the original, guess it's swap time to see
  9. IF staying stock I'd do the local auto parts stores, they will work per manufacture specs and have a warranty. I went with Wilwood, however I have a full 4 disc Wilwood setup so it made sense for me.
  10. Getting to the final finish and have a question on the dash pad alignments. I have an original tooling dash from Dashes Direct, all else is original. I removed the lower dash and everything else for paint. Trying to install and have misalignment issues as you can see from the pictures. The three screws are installed in the pad at the windshield side, however having trouble trying to screw in the lower screws. I removed the adjusting bolts on the lower portion of the lower dash (left and right door areas). Is there more that needs to be loosened? I know their are some adjustments behind the instrument cluster (the u-shapped horse collar) which supports the steering wheel, does this play a part? Any insight would be appreciated. Pictures are of radio area, instrument cluster, and clock panel.
  11. Have not tested it with the car weight, however it does retract the cables and brake shoes. Still have the car in the air for a couple more mods, then will test with car on incline.
  12. I have the Total Cost Involved (TCI) Mustang II coil over set up with power rack and pinion. Also have the CVF Racing Wraptor front runner system with their GM type II peanut power steering pump that flows 2.4 gallons per minute (GPM) with a remote reservoir. TCI said there is no need to reduce pressure, said as long as system is less than 3 GPM the mustang rack will do just fine. The pressure & return line is 5/16" power steering line with AN fittings. From the remote reservoir to the pump return is 10 AN. The inlet and outlet in the remote reservoir is 5/8 NPT. front tires are 10.5 inches wide. I can't seem to get this to work for more than 20 feet. Bled the system with wheels off ground, lock to lock till no air bubbles. Lower the car, start it, turn lock to lock, verify no air, all is well. Drive to end of driveway, try turning wheel and it's extremely difficult. On the road appear to be fine until I come to a stop, Same issue, won't turn when still. Bring it home, raise wheels, re-bleed, but no air bubbles present. Lower car, turn lock to lock, no issues, all is fine. Get to end of driveway, same issue re-appears. No leaks anywhere. CVF Racing just sent a new pump, swapped it out, same issue. TCI is sending a new rack this week. I'm at a loss, can't believe it would be the rack but everyone is standing by their product which is nice. Any suggestions?
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