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smh00n last won the day on January 9

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

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  1. Bad news on the fires here. A Canadian C130 Hercules with a USA crew crashed on Thursday 23 with no survivors in the 3 man crew. Pretty shocking, we've had helicopters and fixed wings crash but nothing this size. At this stage nothing is known why it went down. I am part of fire aviation and the flight trace looked normal until it went down. It dropped retardant for 2 seconds just before we lost sight of it. We have had a lot of US and Canadian aviation people over this year and they have been some of the best people we work with. Their level of expertise is very high and they all hit the ground running. They found that the word 'mate' has many variations from positive to negative but can be used in every social situation. It's bad enough to loose people in fires, worse still when they are miles from home and away from family helping out strangers. RIP B134 and thanks.
  2. Grabber I realised I've already written up about the MSD instal on my progress page.
  3. Grabber, yes I have it controlling timing. I did this after I installed it with the Ford distributor as even Holley recommended to get it running first then do timing control, just so you don't have 2 issues to chase if you have a problem (which I didn't and was a bit surprised after reading all the drama on the Sniper EFI forum). The MSD distributor can be locked out pretty easily and in my box the parts were included. I have pictures at home with the mods. Basically the obvious - remove the vacuum advance and lock the base plate. The info on using timing control I found confusing. One manual for either Sniper or the Distributor (I can't recall which) stated you needed to use an adjustable rotor, the other one said you didn't. When I started installing it, I'm pretty sure the Sniper manual said you didn't need to install the adjustable rotor. 60 bucks down the drain. The problem was I think both Sniper user guides had different stories about how to set it it and only 1 is correct. The Sniper kit has the cable to run from the distributor output to the 6AL. I recall you have to set the distributor at a point (15 degree's??) but that is all in the Sniper manual. You then change the handheld to set it as timing control and away you go. On the handheld you can see the timing in one of the gauges as well. Was a pretty simple process in the end. I have pics somewhere, now it is all finished I'll add to my build post with it all.
  4. Well down here our coldest day would be about zero (40F?) celcius so cold weather won't be an issue. Hot is.
  5. I put one on a tired old 302. I've not run it enough yet to fully complete learning but I have not done anything to any tables. Idles nicely, hot or cold. Starts pretty well first time, with both the original points distributor and the MSD billet/6AL combo I put on. So far, I am impressed with it and have no issues. I guess the challenge will be once I drive it in traffic and see how it goes. Which is what I wanted as I can't be bothered tuning either a carb or playing with EFI.
  6. I got an email this week saying that Car Craft was dropped and I would get digital access to another mag (Hot Rod, Motor Trend or 4WD) and 6 months access to Motr Trend streaming. No mention of Mustang Monthly. Nor money back. Lucky I only took a 1 year Car Craft subscription when renewing MM as it was like a few bucks more. Maybe MM has survived the cut?
  7. I just signed up for 3 years subscription. I hate reading magazines on a computer
  8. Thanks Vic. I only needed one to use as a kill switch - Trunk Monkeys are too dear - and the cost of shipping one down here is too much. We were on holiday over there but were moving hotel every day so I couldn't order a new one. We were in Charlotte for 2 days as well :(
  9. Apparently $125 according to a wrecking yard in North West GA. Is that right? Are cigar lighters for 70's so valuable? What annoys me is they wouldn't give me a price on the phone, despite me saying if it's 5 bucks I'm there but if it's $50 I'm out. I drove from Athens out of my way.....
  10. You need a speaker with just under 2" from the mount face to the back of the speaker (well in my car thats the case). I'm putting mine in the original position just under the door trim in the steel part of the door (I don't have a Mach 1 so not a full door trim) and keeping the original speaker grilles.
  11. Spend more money than you first thought. Speakers make the sound and if you enjoy your tunes it's worth it. My wife has a Kicker system in her daily and for me they need to be pumping to perform and lack bass and mid range. I went to buy a Rockfod Fosgate setup for my 70 but the shop steered me into Hertz Audio based on I wasn't after popping windows out of the car. Yet to instal tham but they reckon they do lots of systems with them.
  12. Another one for brakes and steering. New standard stuff is all I would use (and am using) The hourly rate is what I'd look at. To redo the front and rear with stock stuff I reckon a bloke by himself would do that in 2 days so a 'pro' should take less than that. In our part of the world mechanics would be getting around $80-100 an hour so that's 15 hours. If you're halfway handy you could have a go yourself. They are a pretty simple suspension set up and you do 1 side at a time so you can refer to the other if you get lost.
  13. Well I feel like a goose. Not checking properly and dirty terminal was the issue. Plus I was using an LED light which didn't have enough resistance. Used a bulb light, cleaned the terminal and all is working. D'Oh.
  14. No It's a no-name brand from here in Australia. It is internally regulated and self-exciting. The light I have needs a ground so I'm not sure how to do it (I am rookie sparky), plus it is LED. I was told I needed a filament bulb but not sure if that is correct for a self exciting alternator. If I wire in the light from the "I" terminal to a switched 12v wire on the ignition switch it only lights up when the engine is running, not when it is not. Do I need the resistor and/or a filament bulb?
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