Jump to content

smh00n

Members
  • Content Count

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About smh00n

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

Recent Profile Visitors

594 profile views
  1. Based on this experience I'd not hesitate to do it again. A few guys have dissed the concept as low rent but my needs were being able to fit it easily, it willimprove the performance and be able to adapt to performance improvements. As I have a 347 to go into it, I'm happy with not having to visit a dyno guy twice to get the thing running well.
  2. I'm about 2 months away from doing the same thing, but I am using a 302/8.2" deck block. Same specs, shorty headers, full MD kit. And I also bought all the bits 4 years ago... From what I have read the only issue is the brake booster clearance where the cable enters the firewall (I assume you are using MD cable clutch conversion?) with the 9" booster being the issue. The 8" booster (which I have) is better as the cable is supposed to go in right next to the booster. The motor mounts only seem to be needed to get the shaker sitting right, although I can't get my K&N air filter on with the current Torker intake. I've got a RPM air gap as well to go on the new motor so hopefully it is a bit lower. But I'm happy to chuck a shaker on it :)
  3. Thanks. I wasn't sure if Grabbers were anything to talk about. There's a website for them http://1970mgr.org/index.html if you didn't know about it
  4. I'll second that. My brake light switch works OK. The studs are way too long so the OEM cast dual reservoir cylinder cannot be removed without pulling the entire booster. One of the reasons I went with the local master which is much shorter along with a bit of rookie not knowing what should be correct on these things.
  5. It's a long way from Dearborn to Sydney and I don't have any history one the life of this car. All I know is that it was sold in NY State and was bought in Texas and exported to Melbourne, Australia. This is a Grabber pack, which along with a 302/auto supplied such things as a driver and passenger sports mirror, blacked out rear panel and 69 Boss striping. I bought it in 2015 and have only just started to get work done on it. House renovations with an endless scope creep slowed me right up. The car isn't too bad and seems to be rust free. Plenty of bog in it and a few dodgy lines but as you see in the picture it looks good for afar. I wanted a car that I didn't have to do paint and panel as I'm no good at that but mechanically I'm all over it. First issue I had was brakes that were like an on/off switch. A very long story here but the key points were the brake booster was missing the rubber reaction pad and the pushrod was the long length. After 2 total brake setups fitted I now have decent brakes. I had to go to an adjustable brake proportioning valve to get a decent result and I used a local Ford Falcon dual line brake master cylinder, which has the brake light switch built into it. The plan is to drop in a roller 347 with alloy heads, a TKO600 5 speed and keep the 8" but change to a true trac with 3.50 gears. I've also got a Borgeson power steer setup for it but unsure if that will get fitted. Our registration rules here forbid any welding on any steering item and all modifications need to be passed by a mechanical engineer. Borgeson have advised that they have had customers from here have the steering boxes Xrayed for certification. Unfortunately I bought all the bits I needed when I bought the car so don't have the new style cast case. So, the first thing to do after getting the thing registered was to fit a Holley Sniper kit. I wanted to do this before the new engine setup went in so I didn't have Big Drama's. So, here's the way it panned out. I bought the base system and decided I'd go for the EFI tank from Holley as well. I want a car that is integrated, reliable and works. So, the fuel tank arrived and despite being in a Holley box, was in fact a Tanks Inc unit. So at least it's a known quantity. However since then the in-tank senders and pumps have been released and I'd go that way if I did it today. Especially when the car had a brand new tank in it already. The fuel lines and filters I decided to do out of Aeroflow stuff - cheap, local and plenty of choices in fittings. My first plan of running -8 AN stuff was foiled, as the tank fittings didn't allow -8 fittings to, well, fit. They don't tell you that on the box. Dammit. Back to Evil Bay and -6 stuff is bought. Anyway, who wants to be a tryhard with 800hp fuel lines on a 250hp motor?? I'm using barb fittings and secured by one use hose clamps. Then I figured why I am running $14/metre EFI hose twice? So I bought some alloy 3/8" fuel pipe made by Aeroflow. I'd prefer to do steel but couldn't find it. This was run up the transmission tunnel with EFI hose joining at each end. Next, drop in the tank. The original mounting using tek screws didn't cut it so I put in nutserts and used 1/4" stainless button heads for a sexy finish. The way the pump is mounted in the tank is a pain the in ringthing and it means you have to have hoses exposed. Due to the bigger tank in the 70 it sits flush with the boot sides so a false floor will need some thought. Aeroflow came to the party with a 10 micron filter and neat billet alloy mount, so I cut up some 2mm sheet and mounted it to the lip under the tank. Makes for a neat hose routing and easy to remove and clean out. I ran the fuel hoses through the boot floor using the original power wire for the sender hole and another which I drilled in. I also sheathed the original fuel sender wire and the new fuel pump wire and routed then neatly. Up the pointy end the more observant may have spotted an issue - a 4bbl sniper going on to a 2bbl manifold. Easy fix - a Edelbrock Torker and 4bbl was for sale cheap. Sold. Routing the wiring was fairly easy. Holley are pretty clear on wiring right first time and not to run wires next to others, and to have clean power sources. In this shot the new 12v feed from the ignition switch is the sheathed cable and the main harness from the Sniper is cable tied to it. So, I spent about 2 hours trying to find clean power under the dash. The wiring had been hacked to out a better voltage resistor in, but it also has new coil wiring, a feed from the oil light and power back to a electric fuel pump. Everything I tried pulled 13.6v static but down to just under 11v when cranking. Time was a wasting so I plugged into the green/black wire after the ignition switch pink wire. At the coil there is a resister wire but stuffed if I know where they plugged it in - all the intel says a 70 has the resistor wire back to the switch. Don't you love old cars? On this wire I used some cable sheathing that is the same as what Holley uses, so it looks factory. The carb/injection/carbtion is pretty easy to hook up. Holley give you everything, down to cable ties and wiring connections so you just need to keep going back to the box to pick up bits. I ran the main power harness off to the right hand side of the engine bay as it had the most room, plus the battery and also fits in with future plans for power and starter wiring. On the battery I used Narva quick connectors so the battery can be pulled easy. The 12v switched supply I used a waterproof connector similar to the Holley stuff. The coil wire I just used a blue fitting and left the wire exposed. I'll try to get some real small sheathing and clad it in the next stage. The oxygen sensor I put into the LH pipe, simply because the wiring comes off the LH side of the carbtion. The accelerator cable hook up is simple - there is a plate supplied that has the correct square hole for the cable and also 4 different studs. I now have 3 spare studs if any laydeez are interested. I already had a new cable so in it went. Alignment is good. The original return spring is too heavy so I need to change that to a lighter one. Water temp sender I put into the manifold itself, as it needs water flow (thanks Mustang 360) and I put the gauge one into the thermostat housing. Fuel pipes I had terminated about block height and ran 2 EFI hoses up to the carbtion into -6 fittings. Nice and neat. The fuel pump feed wire was plenty long enough to go through the firewall, under the LH sill plate and back out into the trunk. This is run off a relay so plug and play. Last chore is to get the 3.5" screen (sounds great until you realise that's a horizontal measurement, not diagonal) inside the car. So far, so good. A couple of things I think I did good was to use a decent crimping tool for the electrical fittings. I bought a Narva one for about $100 and it was worth the cost. One shot crimping, no duds. I also have a Toledeo wire stripper so again, one go and it's done. I also thought about the wiring and routed it away from the other wiring. Holley actually say cross existing wiring at right angles and don't use the aluminium sheathing which I did consider to stop interference and their manuals have on there after all the 'don'ts' that you'll thank them later for doing it right. Thanks Holley. Now, to start up. Turn it on, the system takes 2.5 seconds to cycle on and power the fuel pump. It has a bit of noise to start but I never noticed it again. Go through some screens on engine spec (cubes, cam, nitrous, ignition type) hit save and boot it up. (I'm working on getting that 2,000 cube monsta motor delivered next week) Instant start up! I didn't read the instructions to the end so the idle was too high but a couple of left turns on the idle screw on the carbtion fixed that. You can set your own idle speed so I chose 775 rpm. Because I could. Driving it the first thought is no coughing or hesitation from dead cold. Response is much better and it's just a nice thing. Driving down the road the display is constantly changing as it picks up the data and adjusts 'things' to suit. So, as I stated at the start the base line was pretty naff but even on a dead stock 302 there is a big change in throttle response, the way it performs and the feel of the car. It now bags the rear up easy (OK, it's a single spinner with 14" tyres that are as hard as a steel track but let me have some glory). I took my time with this and did the install over 3 part days by myself. I needed to get new clamps for the oxygen sensor adaptor, as the supplied ones are 2 3/8" and were too big for my pissy 2" pipes. I can't get an air cleaner on there with the Torker manifold. I will be using an RPM air gap when I build the 347 so I'll have to think about putting either a hole in the hood or a shaker. This conversion cost me probably $2,000 all up but I wanted to use all AN fittings and run new fuel lines and to make it look a nice install. I think it's pretty good value for me, as I don't have to muck around with carbs, tuning and poor cold starts. With all of 30 minutes driving around the local streets so far I am sold on it and am really impressed with how it works. Next step is to plug in a MSD6AL, MSD distributor and coil and let the carbtion do the timing as well.
  6. I’m pretty sure it was the rubber pad missing from the pushrod inside the booster that was the on/off issue. Then the length of the pushrod caused a low pedal once I fixed the pad. I was chasing a rear brake locking issue so had a lot of mis-information to deal with. In the end I went with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear and removed all the original valve block set up. Brakes are good now about as good as my ‘14 daily drive
  7. Danno I'm following and I care. I want a kill switch that is stealth and this looks the goods. I get the base idea but not the fine details. I just looked and all the bits I need are available here. One question - if I hooked this into my Sniper and MSD ignition, would it affect either of them? As in, would either of those units 'know' their power was being interrupted? I am electric idiot so if I plugged this into the 12V feed that powers Sniper, it would cut both ignition and fuel as a default. If that is the case then I don't need to cut into either the fuel pump feed wire nor the power to the coil (??)
  8. Nice. I bet it has air con :)
  9. That pushrod length is critical. It cost me months and $$$ trying to figure it out. In the end I fudged it. I put a straight edge across the face of the booster to see the pushrod depth and then compared that to the depth of the piston iside the master cylinder and calculated the differnce which is how much the booster pushrood should protrude. Not exactly science but I managed to get it right and I have good brakes. When I got the car that dimension was wrong and it was like an on/off switch and really violent in brake application.
  10. I have an aftermarket booster, but can't tell you who or what. I bought it off ebay. Looks very similar to the Bendix 8" off the car originally. It's gold passivate but No hassles with it, same fitment as what came off. Performance is good, the guy who passed it for registration reckoned it was one of the better brakers he's driven for a while. Pressure to use is good, stops well and no hassles. I guess being able to tell you aftermarket boosters aint that scary is better then nothing :(
  11. Mate I honestly don't know. There is a two wire plug supplied in the kit which I suppose could go to a distributor. From what I understand this is then used for the MSD box and that controls timing, as you have to lock out the advance when you use it on a vacuum dizzy.. I'd already bought a MSD, billet distributor and coil before the Sniper so I am going to use that. My current distributor is points and vacuum and the Sniper just plugs into the coil negative. There is a whole heap of timing options but they went over my head (I'm still analogue in thinking). In Australia we only had Windsors with EFI from 1995-ish so very few V8 electronic distributors to choose, as they were full crank trigger ignition. I think most folks just go new like me, as getting a Duraspark would cost just as much as a new MSD setup by the time you dealt with ebay sellers.
  12. I just installed the Holley Sniper with a Holley EFI tank. I've driven it twice around the block so not really experienced with it but my initial thoughts are positive. The kit came with everything need, from the carb down to cable ties and everything in between. Started first time, drove well, performance is good and the (tiny) screen shows you what you need to know. Idle is good, throttle response is crisp, startup fast and shutdown with no run on. It can run 2 fans, all the connectors are waterproof, there is plenty of wire length supplied and the instructions are good. I went with Holley as they have done carbs since Henry Ford has been building cars and I trusted them. Next step is to put in a MSD 6AL box, distributor and coil and let the Sniper run the whole shebang. I'll post up a review soon.
  13. Yes. Long story cut short I think I managed to put the wrong thickness reaction pad on the booster pushrod so it was too short. This happened as I put the OEM master cylinder in along with a local master cylinder which used different pushrods. Changed it, budda bing great brakes. Not impressed with the shop - I told them to start from the beginning but they just made assumptions and wasted my money. Just another reason to do things yourself.
  14. Look at Mustangtech.com.au there is info there on using a Falcon Bosch 1.4Kw starter which are about $170 on ebay
×
×
  • Create New...