smh00n

They gotta pull a trailer to each track. Can’t do any outside help, only the driver and passenger can work on the car

Currently following Drag Week as a spectator. Bit of a disappointment as some of the well known guys and girls are not here, but lots of ‘regular’ quick street cars. 2 of ‘our’ Mustangs here; a white 70 sport roof rocking a 427 Windsor on nitrous in the 8.50 class, and getting close to the 8.50. The other is a 69 coupe that is a bit slower, about 13 or 14 I think (too many cars to try to remember). Also, in Rockingham was a driver quality 70 sports roof in Calypso Coral and black which might be a Mach 1 for sale. Now fitted with a 460. Pics attached if interested. IMG_0922.mov

Anyone going? I'm dragging my sorry a** on a 22 hour flight to follow the 5 days.

They bolt on fine, but the driver side leaks. I think the ports are too big for the headers, and its squeezing out the bottom of one pipe. I have tried *everything* to stop it. Funny, it only leaks on pone port on one side. The heads have been mildly ported so maybe the man got a bit keen on one port? Anyway, Stan has built and sent a new set for me. I pick them up September 14 when I go to Bristol for the NASCAR race. Cannot wait, even though they cost me $2,000 local currency.

I dropped the sump, added about a 1/3 tube of Dow Corning black silicone to each end. After about 50 miles, no leaks. Hoping it stays that way. Repop trash......

Closing this one off. First, I had been supplied 69 inner tie rod ends, not 70. Didn't think to check them properly when I fitted it all up. Then the shop I had do the wheel alignment must have done a hack job, as the second shop that came recommended made it steer better. I would not say it is fully happy, but it is very much improved to what I had. At least now I can join the people saying that the Borgeson conversion is good.

Update on this bump steer. Borgeson stated they had not found an issue in all their installs. They did suggest to pull the pitman arm and see if any paint was preventing it form sitting higher up on the sector shaft, which was going to be plan B. Whilst thinking about the steering I pulled the sump to fix the rear main seal leak. Half a tube (literally) of Dow Corning black silicone later it was back on. It don't leak so far, fingers crossed. Looked up and the p/s pump had a weep from the pressure hose. Reefed on that fitting to tighten it. Whilst under there I had a look at the tie rod ends. Found out that I had been supplied 1969 items, not 70 which may not have helped the steering issue. I replaced them with new 1970 ones. I thought I'd try another shop for a wheel alignment, so I went to one recommended by another Stang owner, which luckily was 20 minutes away. An hour later, the new shop had pretty much dialled out the problem. It's not *perfect* but it is much better than it was. I'm glad that is sorted. Last, found a helpful person on the Holley Sniper forum, who gave me some tips and provided a new configuration file. The PCV valve was the older flapper style so I spent 28 bucks on Amazon getting a fixed orifice one, and plumbed it into the front vacuum port of the Sniper. The oil breather cap was also puking oil out when I gave it a Big Rev, so I replaced it with a Cleveland (uurrgghh) style cap with the hose into the air cleaner. It still leaks, but only slightly. The new tune was pretty wild - lit up the rears in first and second on power, and rolling in second it would light them up at will. (I had some fun with a sports bike behind me, showing him the side stripe at will). Not really practicable but, so I pulled the timing back a bit which has toned it down. But I miss the sideways action so I might stick a couple of degree's more timing back in (insert evil emoji here). But it sounds alright I think. IMG_0523.MOV After all that, I finally washed it after 10 months of shop dust got to me, and hit with a random DA polisher and some Poor Boys EXP paint sealant. It's a good looking car from 10 feet but the paint is crud and I have managed to put all sorts of chips and marks in the paint. Lucky I prefer drivers not show queens.

Well I got a reply back from Patriot who tell me these headers are not designed to fit Dart heads. Summit don't say they will or won't :( Anyway, Stan at FPA has really stepped up and is building me a set to pick up when I go to the Bristol NASCAR night race next month. It's only a $2,000 cost, what else would I do with the cash.

@RPM I am grabbing false hopes I realise. And I am letting the interwebs know it :( The steering tie rods are on a different angle to the lower control arms on both sides, and I suspect that's my issue. They are facing up from the inner joint and that's my problem. Here Down Under, our road authorities will not allow any changes to suspension or steering especially with welding, and rod ends are also out. Remember, these decision-makers know better than us and are only saving our sorry asses. Makes me feel better when I see that tax money go out each week. Not. But, I have other issues, being the repop drag link I bought has the taper too large to fit the tie rods into. They bottom out before they tighten, and I have had to put washers under the nuts to tighten them. So, the drag link need is more to fix that than the bump steer and appease my OCD. And since I had to pull it all to drop the sump to fix the leak (thanks Scott Drake) I thought I'd replace it.

$400+ down here. Plus I have new roller idler and a pitman arm, so I don't really want to go back to that old stuff.

Sorry, it's a manual steer one. I need it for a Borgeson conversion which is giving me static

Yeah, I don't know why I am considering them. I have their repro B302 oil pan that leaks something fierce from the rear main. Doesn't even come close to the correct radius. Second Felpro one piece gasket just ordered and a gallon of RTV :(

Folks Trying to figure out my bump steer issue I thought I would try a new drag link. The one I have needs washers behind the nut of the 2 inner tie rod ends to snug up the taper on the joint, so something isn't right. It was a repro which was NOS and in a bag with an orange and yellow logo, but I don't remember much more than that. I see Scott Drake now have repro's and whilst I'd prefer an OEM Ford one, these might be the answer. Has any one used one or know of the quality? For me, its a $400 cost to buy one so I need to know if they are decent as it's a lot of cash if they are the same as what I have. Part number is D0ZZ-3304-CI (suffix is A for OEM)

You needed to post this 2 days earlier :(. I had a stock aircleaner but sold it on Saturday. My K&N is 14" diameter if that helps any.

I can't get SCE copper gaskets here, and the only Remflex are the smaller ones that need to be cut to match the ports on the heads. I'll try 2 standard gaskets I have here in the next few days and see how they go. I'm sort of resigned to buying new headers, which if I so will be FPA ones which will cost me a lot. Nothing else seems to fit with a Borgeson box and not hit or hang. Like someone else put on a review, these things have been around for 50 years, surely someone has made a set of headers that fit.