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smh00n

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smh00n last won the day on March 16

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

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    v8 powered poster

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

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  1. I used the Borgeson-supplied Saginaw pump. I had to modify the mount brackets, fit the correct width pully to it and change the outlet fitting to a 90°. So basically if I had known I would have got one from a wreck and used it, as that's probably what I will end up doing if this is Chinese rubbish that can't be rebuilt.
  2. I have not. I am sure I have installed the steering arms/drag link not centred as it does feel 'funny'. After a few miles the bump steer has settled down, or I have got used to it. Perhaps the whole suspension has settled down but I've not had time to look. Either way I need to get back under there and have a look. Plus the P/S pump has now developed a whine when hot which is pi$$ing me off. Not completely happy with this setup and have kept all the old stuff if I get too sick of it.
  3. Thanks guys. That’s what I figured I needed. Does the valve brand matter? CJ have a different one to West Coast Cougar (who I think are probs the better source for OEM stuff) but WCC are out of stock of the seal kits. And is it just supported by the hoses and not attached to anything? The vacuum hoses probably all need replacing as well. Who does them?
  4. My 70 with factory a/c seems to have destroyed the heater core, so I pulled the hoses off. Now I am in need of a heater soon and want to replace the parts. I know I need a core but what other hardware on the Engine side do I need? I’m currently on vacation in the USA so don’t have access to my parts books.
  5. I've been told that gas shocks are good for high demand use - where the piston is moving rapidly as the suspension moves such as in motor racing. The gas does not heat as fast as oil does. But the benefit is not seen with road use as they are not worked that hard. Probably opinion #3,597 of a gazillion but. I put Koni adjustables on mine mid-last year. They were on sale and about 25% cheaper then Bilstein which is why I bought them. Can't compare the old ones, they were 2 dollar shop items, but I find the ride a bit hard on the road, and doesn't 'soak' up the bumps like a modern car, but does hit them. They have been set to roughly half way on the adjustment scale. I have not really changed the settings on the front, but did dial up the rear to stop axle tramp. When I get motorvation I'll change the settings but you have to pull them out to adjust them so the fronts are not enticing. Our roads down here are probably rougher than US roads, especially main roads, and the KYB adjustable are a no-no here, for what that's worth.
  6. The man said 20% loss was typical so I’m guessing 420 at the crank. The cam is rated to 6,600 and it drops power at 6,000 so at least I have a reasonably low-stress engine. Never built a small block so I don’t know if this is ok, awesome or out of the ballpark for power.
  7. The engine is a late model 8.2" roller block, 347, Dart Pro 1 heads, scat rotating bits, 10.5:1 comp, Lunati 231/239 @0.50, RPM airgap, FPA 1 5/8" headers, all running on 98 octane gas (no corn fed stuff) with a TKO600. Sniper is the 600Hp 4 injector thing through a MSD 6AL box and billet distributor.
  8. It's Hammer dyno time! The story so far. Engine in, all systems go but still having issues with the tune. I tried a few changes, emailed back and forwards to my man in the US but I realised I was wasting my time. So I made a booking with a tuner that had previously tuned a carb'd car years ago and he got results. Not cheap but - $1,350 AUD which would be about $1,000 USD. First up he checked the settings, then spent about an hour running the engine and playing with the ignition and fuel maps. Really not much to see, just sitting on the dyno running at light loads. Finally, the time came to do power runs. I had decided to put a 6,500 rev limit on as I wasn't sure how much revs the standard roller block could take. I'd been told 6,500, 7,000 and 7,500 but none of them were going to pay for a blowed up motor, so 6,500 it was. Another factor was the cam was rated to 6,600 for power. First run: 325 hp at the treads. He made a total of 8 runs, with all but one increasing power as he tweaked tables and numbers. The final run gave up 355 hp and about 330 ft/lb at the wheels. But more importantly, it had a fat flat torque curve and the fuelling was much cleaner. Driving it revealed it was back to how it was without the timing and fuel management and basically drove like a modern car - no snatch out of third gear corners and 1,200 rpm, hauled the mail when it needed to. And the idle has come down about 100rpm and it is much cleaner. Hopefully now I just drive it and don't worry about it not starting, idling, or going. Yesterday was 37° C or about 98 F° and the engine temp stayed steady at 90-91°C (195) in traffic and came quickly back down to 84° C (184) whilst driving. Have to be happy about that. IMG_1910.MOV
  9. No, I just followed it as a spectator. Was a good week, the real big names/fast cars were missing but that meant a lot more focus on the 'real' street cars doing around 10 seconds. The 70 was pulling off 8.50-8.60 all week. I think it was a 427 Windsor on nitrous. I have lots of other videos I need to put up on You tube sometime IMG_1084.MOV IMG_1084.MOV IMG_1084.MOV
  10. I pulled mine through and attached to the new sender. My new fuel tank was a Tanks Inc so the pump/sender unit was towards the rear of the tank.
  11. Bad news and good news. Bad news? The clutch cable started to melt. I took it for about a 40 minute run, stopped at the shops and when I jumped back in the clutch was all sticky and shuddery. Thinking the worst I took it straight home. Next day, pulled the cable and yep, the wrap was burnt and the outer cable had started to melt. Dammit. Hard to see but the white discolouration is the area. As luck would have it I was recently in a parts shop up the road and they had silicone sleeving. Looked it up, rated to 250F so I went down and bought some 5/8" and 3/4" lengths. I put the 5/8" stuff on first (I had to split it and wrap it as it would not go over the end, then I put a length of the original silver stuff over it, then the larger silicone sleeve over that, and finally wrapped it with heat wrap. These are the 3 stages before wrap. If this thing melts again I am going to go nuts. When I put it back in, the cable still hit the headers, so employing my inner McGyver, I put a spring off the pan stud and tie-wired it to the cable to give it an air gap: The result? A tiny air gap but one that will not melt the cable. On the drive, I found the speedo wasn't working. So a quick check identifies that the clip on part to the speedo head is too long, the clip isn't engaging and the inner cable is not hooking in. So I had to trim back the steel part to get the clip to engage, the end result a working speedo but a heck of a noise from the cable as it is hitting something. Dammit again. I'll buy another one from MDL and pay the expense. Next, install a small throttle extension lever I had ordered and installed which lifted the cable and made the arc longer, but it gave a 50% improvement in throttle response - without it you could not give it a little gas when starting (this is a stick remember) and you either had 2,500 revs on or you smoked it out of there. Holley p/n 20-16 for reference. All good, but now the cable hit the air cleaner base. The expensive K&N 14" drop base air cleaner I bought especially to clear the hood when using an RPM airgap manifold. Another Dammit (I have plenty, I won't run out). So, off to the speed shop I go to buy a 1/4" air filter spacer. And then as the filter sits higher I need a new centre stud. Of course, you can't spend just 10 bucks at a speed shop so I walked out with a new rocker adjusting spanner and allen key, so I now look like one of them pro-fess-ional in-jun builders. Except no one see's me working on the car. I had preciously been emailing a bloke in the US about getting the Sniper working properly. When I changed to timing control it was all out so he was sending me updated GCF files (GCF is the data the Sniper uses to run and sets timing, fuel, and all sorts of other electrickery I don't get). Luck would have it, he was awake and reading emails, so therefore ensued about 20 emails going over the set up and tweaking it. The end result is the car starts and does not stall, does not have a massive air sucking issue at idle and doesn't stall as I drive to a stop. The tweaks were actually very simple, but having read and acted on internet 'experts' I had the settings all over the shop. To fix the idle air control (IAC) you have to increase the idle screw. But, because it has a TPS you turn the thing off before you move the idle screw and when you turn it back on again, the computer says, I'm at 0% throttle opening and therefore I will idle at my electronically set rpm. Kinda reverse to carbs which don't got no brains. Coupled with the lever and his tweaks, it is driving real nice again and is something I want to drive. And that was the good news. I still have to tweak the driver side exhaust pipe, as I put it too close to the rail. It's hard lying on your back by yourself trying to work out angles to cut pipes, the length to cut pipes and see clearances. It just needs a cut and a turn of about 1/16" but that will put the join angle out and I will need to trim and muck around. Or I just fill the gap with weld and not let anyone under there to look.
  12. Exhaust finished. Spent a day re welding the pipes into the existing system. As the FPA are long tube it was a matter of cutting off the down pipes, shortening the S bends and welding. I will be glad once I have a lift, crawling under cars trying to deduce angles to make cuts is hard. I also bought better lap clamps for the joins. If y'all are not using these already go and buy them now from Summit. 11 bucks each, so easy to use and clamps well. These cost at least 40 bucks each over here so we are getting ripped. Pretty happy with the result - the headers just come under the rails and sit nice and high. I went through and re-did the rear muffler mounts so they sit higher as well. The sound to me seems different inside (although, I also fitted sound mat under the rear seat to try to kill some drone). NO CHUFFING which makes the darn cost worth it. The only beef I have is the clutch cable is too close to one pipe. I had some left over header wrap so I wrapped both pipes all the way up to near the curve near the port, and also wrapped the clutch cable too. At $146US + shipping and taxes, no way I am melting that bad boy intentionally. The positive is they are further away from the speedo cable and rail. On the other side, the starter is touching the pipe so I may have to see if I can rotate it a bolt hole to clear The service FPA gave was outstanding. He was super helpful, did what he said and most of all the headers fit the heads and the car and I hope not to ever pull them off. Today Fedex delivered me a new speedo cable and axles seals from Rock Auto. It's sad when I can get all this stuff delivered to my door cheaper than I can buy one speedo cable here. The no-name cable came without the rubber grommet and o'rings, but for 11 bucks I ought to just shut up. EDIT; I will not be shut up. The end to the speedo head is a natch too long and it won't clip on. I should have bought the 17 dollar cable not the 11 dollar one. And I have a spare, as I bought two of them.
  13. Closing this one out, as a job done. Although, I do question the need for a relay as when I was proving the power wires, there was only 0.240 volts coming through when the ignition was on. I don't know if that beefs up when the starter is engaged or not. @Rich Ackermann the word description has you using 2 terminal 30. The picture is correct so the wiring sequence is 30 - power in from the OEM NSS wiring on the plug 86 - power in from the OEM NSS wiring on the plug - I jumped these at the #30 terminal with the piggy back wire 87 - power out through the relay back to the OEM NSS wiring on the plug 85 - ground from the NSS switch Basically all you are doing is grounding the relay with the NSS which allows power to flow through the relay and completes the circuit (Ignore the dodgy burnt wrap, I got too excited with a butane blowtorch) I cut the replacement 4 speed harness wires and soldered in two new wires. I should have kept the auto loom but the guy who box the gearbox wanted it so I chopped up a brand new repro. I got smart and put some red heatshrink on the power side, so I knew what way to wire the relay. For the life of me I could not find out what type of connector is used on the plug, so I replaced it with a Deutsch connector. First time I used one, I'm converted. Whilst they are easier to assemble than the Delphi Weatherpack, they are dearer and the correct tool is eye watering expensive. Once crimped, shrinked, tied and mounted (I hung the relay under the RH strut brace so it's somewhat hidden but easy to access), the proof was in the starting. It hasn't showed up real well but I started it in neutral and then shifted it into 1st. Cut out straight away. IMG_1468.MOV Tick that job off the list :)
  14. New parts fitted and new parts failed. After my trip to the US, I arrived home with a set of FPA headers. I have to thank Stan - he built these in about 8 weeks and shipped them to my motel 2 weeks before I got there. Before I fitted them I made up new, solid rear mounts for the mufflers. They are not pretty as I'd like so no shots, but they have 2 insulation rubbers each side and oth to the floor pan so I am hoping that issue is fixed. I elected to go with the dark gray ceramic coat and grabbed a spare set of exhaust gaskets. Total cost in local $$$ over $2,000. The quality is nice - neat welds, mandrel bent bends and thick flanges that have been dressed. Only question I have is why the join on the #1 pipe. The old set had been leaking on the #8 port on the drivers side. The RH bank never leaked at all so I'm stuffed why the LH one did. The design of the pipes is also much better for access; all of them go down where the Patriot set went across the top on the driver side. Resulting in having to bash a huge dent in the lower pipe to clear the Borgeson box. Fitting the new ones - super easy. Both had to come up from underneath but they fit in well. Cleared the Borgeson box no problems. But, I have concerns about the proximity to the clutch cable, steering idler and starter. The clutch cable is $146 from MDL so I will have to wrap it pretty well with decent wrap (my Chinese sourced stuff failed on the speedo cable and it has melted through). The idler is a roller bearing unit so all I can do is grease it regularly. The starter although it has wrap and is a small one (no way you'd get a standard one in there) will need to have the wires wrapped as well. As promised, the bottom of the headers are level with the frame rails, so scraping might be gone for the future. Next steps are to do the pipes from the headers to the X pipe. When I jacked it up, I noticed an oil stain under the LHR wheel. Having a good look, the axle seals are leaking and have spat oil all over the drums and inside of the wheel. Both are like that so I will need to pull the axles and check the seal, and probably replace the brake shoes. Dammit, you get stuff supplied that should be correct and it's not. Or, I fitted the seals wrong. Also when looking underneath I found the reason for the banging on the floor when giving it some gas. Initially I thought it was the exhaust as the previous owner made a hash of the mounts and one broke. But, the driveshaft has been hammering on the floor due to axle tramp. I need some advice here - I have adjustable Koni on it so will ramp them up harder to try to stop it. I have fitted 1350 uni joints and yokes to the 8" so I wonder if the 9" cars had a longer diff snubber rubber off the body. I can't see any marks on the rubber so it seems the diameter of the yoke is allowing it to hit the floor before the snubber is reached. Can anyone advise if the 9" car snubber rubbers are longer? Last, the old headers also were too close to the speedo cable and it has now melted and jammed. Only 26 bucks in US, $85 over here. I tried buying one in the US but no shop had them and I didn't go past a Summit or Jegs.
  15. smh00n

    Drag Week 2023

    They gotta pull a trailer to each track. Can’t do any outside help, only the driver and passenger can work on the car
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