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smh00n

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smh00n last won the day on January 9 2020

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

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  1. Guys I am thinking of going to the night race at BMS next September. Looks like this is a popular race as not many tickets available. Am I better to take a package deal from the BMS partner (or others) or just go it alone. Seems hard to get a single ticket and I would also prefer somewhere I could hide from the sun as I burn bad. The Busch terraces look good but I can’t see how Joe Public can book a seat. However, I’m not going there without having cars go by at 200mph right next to me, so I have issues. Any tips you could give me? I am flexible with plans, I may have a car as if drag week aligns I’d like to do that as well, otherwise I can fly in.
  2. There's no replacement for displacement.... and the torque of a big block will make the front of your shorts stick out. I had a 429/C6/9" in an Aussie Falcon years ago. Touched the towers, sucked gas but did it all with ease. With 2.75 rear it lit them up from a standing start in 2nd gear. But, unless you know what you are looking at most people won't realise it's not a Cleveland and so the cool factor is missing. For $6K I'd go with a 351 Windsor based motor, keep all the current hardware and swap it in on a Saturday.
  3. That's correct, but if you use them as a matched pair then they work. You can't put a 69 pedal on a 70 booster (and vice versa). From what I have learned over the past day the pedal box is the same regardless of brake. Looks like I am missing 2 brackets to the firewall.
  4. You in Brisvegas and you are cheering for the 'riff? What am I missing here
  5. Damn yes! If you could send me where the triangular bracket bolts on the lower bolt holes that would be great. Mine has A/C so trying to see past the vent hoses is a bit of a nightmare. If it is also easy to send a shot of the pressed metal brace that goes form the dash to the firewall I'd appreciate it. Can send you my email if thats easier.
  6. Just pulled the dash - I am missing 015A18 and 04510/01524 brackets. The triangular one and the pressed steel straight one. Spoke to Leigh and he confirmed the 01508 bracket is the same so I just need to check what bracket they have used. I'm sure I checked and it was a 69 power brake pedal with a 69 booster in the car.
  7. This has studs for all the booster mounts. But I don't know if it is original as the whole thing is a sh*t fight
  8. Thanks Rsanter. I will dial up Leigh and see if he can assist. Very few 69 and 70 Downunder so its a struggle to get bits.
  9. Are these any good and is the shop worth dealing with? https://www.macsautoparts.com/1970-mustang-brake-and-clutch-pedal-support-to-dash-bracket-set-3-pieces-44-48672-1.html
  10. Well, this thing is a total stuff up. They have put a 69 pedal and booster into it. I have had to replace the booster so went with what was in it. I've not pulled what I call the pedal box (P/N 01508) out but I need to when I convert it to stick. Hopefully it is a '70 and is a power brake assembly. If it's not, then that will explain all the hassles I've had with trying to get the brakes on this thing sorted. I'm pretty sure that P/N 015A18 is missing, as I think that bolts to the aluminium spacers on the steering column top mount (?). If so, then that is missing too. Any one have a complete power disc, stick trans pedal assembly for a 70 they have for sale?
  11. Gentlemens My 70 has been badly converted from manual drum to power disc front brakes. Recently I saw that a brace between the dash and pedal support is used on factory discs; P/N 01524 from the MPC My questions are a) Do I need to fit this brace b) if yes, does anyone have one? A search of the interwebs doesn't bring up the part number.
  12. That's a trusty BA Falcon RTV ute. Pull anything in comfort. They either had the Barra 6 cylinder or the apology that was the 5.4 3V V8. You'll get 500 easy out of a turbo Barra. They are even being sent to the US. Australia's response to the LS everything movement :)
  13. Thanks. I am converting the lights to LED and was going to use 10.0v as a reference for the load, but today I checked all the wires for voltage and somehow the voltage has now jumped to 12.5 on both light circuits. Dunno how I changed it, definitely some elec-trickery going on. At least now I can go forward with my lights and power box and not have to start again. I'm building the lights myself and not use a commercial unit.
  14. Another question - what sort of voltage should I see at both stop and tail lights, at the rear lights? I checked yesterday and I'm seeing about 10.5v on the stop and closer to 11.0v on the tail. It does change a bit with engine revs which I didn't think would happen (?). I suspect the stop light circuit is not correct as there is some replacement wiring, and it may be higher resistance than OEM but knowing the 'correct' voltage will make it easier for me.
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