Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


smh00n last won the day on January 9

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

Recent Profile Visitors

822 profile views
  1. Mine are dual pattern. Dart Pro 1 That's good to know
  2. Thanks. Might not be an issue with a manual
  3. What modifications? I looked at PH4010 but the small primaries are not ideal
  4. What's the options for full length headers for this car? FPA are beyond my budget so am looking at Dougs, Patriot, JBA, etc. I see Patriot H8403-B around $225 which suits my budget. Dougs D623-R are $482 which is at the very top. What's the options in between? My main concern is fitment with this combo as I cannot find any reviews on any header for this combo. I do have Patriot shorties H8433 but again I cannot confirm via reviews if I will have fitment issues. I'll also pay about $500 to get pipes made to suit so spending a bit less than that on new headers is OK, as I am only using drop pipes so the rest of the system is simples straight pipes. I am not really chasing power on this car. It has an HO roller block, Dart Pro 1 heads with dual bolt pattern, Sniper EFI and I have the option of either a Torker or RPM airgap manifold. Compression will be around 10.6 or so, depends on where the machining takes it. Won't be lower than 10.5 I'm sure. Aware of the limitations of a stock block I'll probs keep it to 6,000~ which fits with the Voodoo 20350711 cam which tops out at 6,200. From what I read a main girdle won't save it from splitting so I'll work to what I have and accept it.
  5. I spent lots of time and lots of money mucking around with aftermarket boosters. The combo I had also could only be removed as a 1 piece master/booster unit, the studs on the booster were too long to allow the master to come off. The master never hit the shock tower but. Went to Ford stuff, slept better at night :) If it was a manual brake, then perhaps there has been additional reinforcement put on the front of the firewall? Would have to be 1/4 - 1/2" but you never know with 50 year old cars.
  6. Nice. Gets my vote. Is that Acapulco or something else?
  7. So in the Land Downunder we fit master cylinders from our 1972 -1976 Falcon models, known as an XB series. These are much shorter than the OEM, are dual line with 2 seperate out lets for front brakes, and integral brake failure switch and they basically bolt straight on to the boosters, with minimal elongation to the mount holes. The pushrod needs to be adjusted fir the correct fit but a decent brake guy can do that, it's just measure and check. You can pull the cylinder with the booster in place no problems at all. You do need to use a proportioning valve as they won't solve rear brake lock. They are a 1" bore. They do look period to the car as they are all alloy with a pressed steel top, and the same sort of wire to hold the lid on. The only downside is the pipe outlets face the engine in a LHD car but some bending trickery can get the pipes away from heat. You should pay about $100US for one with shipping on top of that. Here's an example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-for-FORD-FALCON-XB-ALL-BODY-TYPES-MODELS-11-1973-7-76/252776170220?epid=21028745013&hash=item3adaa242ec%3Ag%3APYkAAOSwFnVfBsaG&LH_ItemCondition=1000
  8. My sister beat this. She's been over 5 years cancer free. But, she took a double mastectomy straight up. Your wife can do it, don't be afraid to take big leaps. It won't be easy for both of you but stay positive. Fresh, unprocessed food will be your friend from now on as well as anything not natural. You will find an amazing support network once you get further in. Keep smiling mate, you can do this.
  9. Easy. Flip the engine over, undo all the bolted bits on the crank and pull it out. No need for any of the top of the motor to come off, except the timing covers. You'll have it done by lunch :)
  10. I went to put an aftermarket kickdown cable on as it was missing. I have the shaft coming through the neutral switch but no OEM lever but the kit has a lever. However, I cannot get the kickdown shaft to rotate. One way it has a positive stop and the other it just tightens. It can move in and out slightly about 1/8" or a bit more. Having nil experience in automatics what could be the issue? It is leaking from the shafts and my searching today reveals there are 2 different length kickdown shafts which causes the oring to leak. It's not the original trans to the car and based on the way the whole car has been put together I would not be surprised if it was some hybrid thing put together from parts bin leftovers. I guess not too much force is needed to move it? I am thinking perhaps whatever plunger it moves may be stuck due to no use?
  11. The fuse box is a relay and fuse box, which I was going to put into the loom. My only real option is to cut the harness and run the original headlight and horn wires into the relays, then all new wiring from the relay box to the headlights and horn. The new box will be on the drivers inner guard. I'm not keen to cut into this loom as it seems to be good. I have previously pulled the original fuse box and not seen any issues there and theres no other wiring issues on the loom except for dull headlights and horns that are very sick. I need to run relays to the headlights as I have halogen lights and I figure replacing the wiring to thicker core will only future proof it. 70 Mustangs are not common over here so even finding a used harness would be hard let alone one I could hack up. If one of your looms has dud headlight and horn wiring but good elsewhere I could make use of one :)
  12. That car is sex on wheels :)
  13. So I was chasing an issue with high beam today along with going to put in a horn relay. Found I had a power supply issue to high beam which I don't fully understand why - possibly the connection through the firewall was a bit suspect. I stripped back the loom to chase it and wanted to know if this was the original loom. It has the washer hose running through it. The first layer against the wiring was wide black insulation tape, then the bright yellow cloth/gaffer tape and finally another covering of black insulation tape, about 3/8" wide. I have a fused relay box I can install so was wondering if I should cut up this loom so I can put new wiring in from the relay box. I was thinking of putting it in front of the drivers strut tower (image 2422 just in front of the sticker). So options are: Hack this harness and replace wiring What gauge is the original wiring? Buy a new repro replacement harness and hack it splicing in new wire The connectors won't be original if I replace the wiring but I can add new weatherpack type plugs easy enough. Or, is there an easier way?
  14. I forgot to check the voltage. Probably because of the gas issue. I have to do the horn relay too... My car has 6,235 problems it seems, everytime I check something it needs replacing. Like the headlight bucket that was put in sideways because it was from another car. Or the construction screws holding half the car together.
  15. Well I have had a productive 2 hours. Wiper motor is original to the car, built on March 24 1970. Still has the plastic cover over it, original bolts not been moved and the brushes still have a small bit of the original square ends on them; as in not even worn in yet. Also under the cowl is clean and original. No rust, no holes, no ugly. Funny, this car was built in Dearborn got sold up there somewhere and ended up in Texas. So I pulled the linkage too. Passenger side was nice and free but the driver a bit tight. With a bit of work flushing out the crap it's probably 50% better. Chucked silicone lube over all the joints, cleaned all the earths and put it back together. On a dry screen it was an improvement so happy about that. Then I went for a drive to celebrate.
  • Create New...