Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


smh00n last won the day on January 9 2020

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

Recent Profile Visitors

1,035 profile views
  1. Thanks. I am converting the lights to LED and was going to use 10.0v as a reference for the load, but today I checked all the wires for voltage and somehow the voltage has now jumped to 12.5 on both light circuits. Dunno how I changed it, definitely some elec-trickery going on. At least now I can go forward with my lights and power box and not have to start again. I'm building the lights myself and not use a commercial unit.
  2. Another question - what sort of voltage should I see at both stop and tail lights, at the rear lights? I checked yesterday and I'm seeing about 10.5v on the stop and closer to 11.0v on the tail. It does change a bit with engine revs which I didn't think would happen (?). I suspect the stop light circuit is not correct as there is some replacement wiring, and it may be higher resistance than OEM but knowing the 'correct' voltage will make it easier for me.
  3. The MSD white wire shuts it all off so I personally don't see the need for a pump cut off. Just another switch to remember to turn on. I have an inertia switch here somewhere, I should really fit it as I think the pump still runs if the engine stalls. I'll have to check that out myself now I've said it.
  4. I have a Sniper on my car and very happy with it. From first start it just ran well and I have never had an issue. I used the base kit. My set up is the Sniper with a MSD 6AL, 8479 distributor and a Holley EFI tank. I use the sniper to manage timing and electric fans. I have a Edelbrock torker manifold (the original, not a Torker II) on a tired old 302 ( I have a 347 just waiting to out together whenever I get time) Couple of points I'd change; The Holley tank is a pain as all the fittings come through the top. Basically you need a false floor to protect the lines which I am still thinking about how to do. I'd probably look at the fuel sender module with pump if I did this again. The pump is a little bit loud but that can be a wank factor as the people watching realise its not a standard car. The fuel sender caused me all sorts of grief. While the Ohms might be correct, you actually need to change the float level to have the gauge read right. I think I pulled it out 6 times trying to make it read right. I'm about 1/8" off I reckon to having it 'perfect' The wiring I followed to the letter, good earths, strong positives and no cross over of wires. Only hassle I had was the MSD and Holley guides had different instructions for wiring the distributor into the 6AL box (Holley instructions are correct, btw). Hot or cold, I have decent starts. I have a MSD hi torque starter and like 0 gauge wires all through the start circuit. I control the idle, I control when the fans come on and off, I can set the AFR, all sitting in the driver seat. You can change the fuel map but that's well over my pay grade or care factor. I know there are lots of horror stories out there for Sniper and Fitech, but when you read all the issues it comes down to power and earth (for Holley, I don't look at FiTech but they seem to be the same). Like I said, from the first start this thing just booted up, settled into a nice idle and has never let me down. Disclaimer; I've only done around 500 miles on it over the past year so it's not getting worn out any time soon. I went with Holley as they have been out there for over 100 years and were the original supplier to Ford, so they must do something right.
  5. The Fraud Motor Company outdid themselves on this one alright. I stripped back the harness on the driver side yesterday - soooo many black wires! I think I have identified the wiring I need; it turns out the PO had already run a new brake light wire and has hacked up the OEM harness, so I believe I can just cut one wire and put it to the new indicator bulb. Watch this space.
  6. Pgold that's similar to what I was thinking. I'll have to get time to look at the whole set up and see how I can change it. I'm thinking maybe change the side lights to just marker lights. The whole 70 alternating indicator and side light thing has stumped me, and now may explain why the repro front indicators I used seemed to not work properly. The indicator bulb was on at park and the side light bulb flashed (basically, reverse of what should have happened) so now I need to spend some time thinking this through. One of the joys of buying another mans project :(
  7. I have a Sniper but with MSD Pro-billet. Wiring that one component caused me more hassle than the entire carb/tank/wiring process. Holley really need a better instruction writer, as I found their instructions wrong too. Sniper instructions said wire this way, MSD said wire that way. Can't remember the answer now but I'm sure the MSD instructions were right and Holley wrong. You'll like the Sniper, just works when wired right. Cold starts are like a new car, no hesitation at all. Heck, all starts are like a new car :)
  8. Late to the party but I used Hertz 6x9" which didn't need much cutting to the steel panel. Little bit of trimming to the original square holes. Sound is good and they sit nice and flush. I had pictures somewhere of fitting them but can't find them right now.
  9. Thanks. So, do the stop light wires go through the turn signal switch? Would it be easier to run a new wire to the stop lamps? I was thinking that I could put in a divider inside the bucket/housing for the outer lens of the lamp, and use the outer third lens as the indicator light (I can use a red indicator lens) and use the inner two for stop lamps, again with a new holder to brighten them up. Would that be less effort? I'm a bit sick of idiots nearly rear-ending me due to being on their phones and dim stop lights not really indicating when I am stopping.
  10. Being in Australia, we have a crazy law that requires both stop lights to be illuminated together - so the red indicator function needs to go. Where in the loom does the indicator/stop light happen? I'll try to split the wires and put in a separate bulb for the indicator.
  11. High first gear every day. Unless you're running a 2.75 gear you'd be lucky to get to 6 mph before you started bouncing off the limiter with the lower first. And then the thing will fall off the cam into 2nd. I went with the 0.81 5th in my TKO600 as I don't see me doing a road trip in it. And if I do, I'll make sure my credit card is empty so I can gas it up each little town.
  12. Search Touring Car Masters on you tube. Also the track is Bathurst, THE best race track in the world. Tv and video don't show how steep it is going up and down.
  13. I have the Holley/Tanks Inc tank. I bought this before Holley released the stock tank pump/sender unit and if I were to do it again I'd go that way. But, my car had a virtually new tank fitted before I bought it and I didn't actually need a tank. For looks without a false floor I'd go the sender entry option. The Tanks gas tank has the hoses and fittings at tank skin level, so you do need to protect them somehow. I think a false floor on top of the tank is the answer as it is close to the frame rail height. See the pic (you also cannot use -8 fittings from the tank, it only takes -6. That's a -8 in the hole and you can't turn it ). You have to cut 2 holes to fit the supply and return hose. The pump is noisy regardless of fuel level but mainly noticeable at idle. I have not had any experience of the baffle as I don't corner this hard. The baffle itself is like an upside down cup that the pump sits in. As it has holes in the corners and the tank itself is reasonably flat I can't see it holding gas like a reserve pot would do. It would be good at a 1/4 and above but once you get real low in gas I don't see it doing anything outstanding. I had to run a vent tube from the tank as it just stunk the inside out. I also used a fuel-compatible gasket goo on all the cork gaskets. The sender - man, the sender. It is NOT plug and play and you need to spend some time getting it right. Somewhere on the interweb someone has posted the actual Ohm value for the gas sender, and it is like 50 Ohms at empty, not zero. I placed the sender on the bench, ruled lines for the tank top and bottom and used a multi meter to check readings. But it took a lot of time playing around. I have it just about right for Empty - about a poofteenth of an inch above E it runs out (I ran it to empty testing it) so it's close. But, full reads full too early but I'd prefer to know when I run out of gas so focussed on the Empty setting. Tanks Inc told me the only way to fix it is a new sender for 100 bucks but when you read the way the sender works I didn't trust that. The tank itself was great, fit really well, no issues fitting it and the bits went together easy.
  14. The Sniper fan wire green and blue are ground wires. You have to have clean, dedicated power and ground to a Sniper other wise they give you hassle. I would not link in anything to the power wire, nor would I take power from another source. Direct to battery for both, big fat wires. Mine booted up immediately on install, the Holley forum is full of sob stories and most of them relate to power and interference. My fan relays have a separate power circuit and only the ground relay wires are seen by the Sniper.
  15. I'm no expert on the subject, but I am building one right now. I had to buy pistons so the 347 versions were no dearer than 302. And the crank and rods were also not a lot more, especially if the rods come with ARP bolts. Everything else is the same as a 302 build. For me, Pro's: No replacement for cubic displacement A bigger cam will be less lumpy with bigger cubes More torque Virtually the same cost as a 302 rebuild, just the crank and rod cost Set the compression at your will, lots of choices out there for pin height on stoker rods. Mine will hit 10.5 easy 8.2" deck means no issues with fitting, different extractors, etc compared to a 9.2" 351 If I leave the 302 badges on it who's to know? Cons; Extra $$$ for machining to clearance the block and buy the crank and rods My Scat crank has a lot of variation in journal size. Not enough to worry a street motor but too much for decent power. That could have meant more $$$ for grinding and bearings (I bought std bearings with the crank) Oil consumption remains to be seen. I am told with oil ring lands the oil is not a problem (the gudgeon pin sits through the oil ring land on a 347). My combo is a HO roller block, fitted with main studs, windage tray and HP oil pump. In there are Scat cast crank and H beam steel rods with a .927 pin, pistons are Sportsman forged with -4cc bowl. Dart Pro 1 alloy heads - 2.02. 1.60 and 195cc runners, an old Edlebrock Torker single plane manifold (I have an RPM airgap but with Holley Sniper they seem to run lean in the end cylinders) and a shorty set of headers. Cam currently is a Lunati Voodoo @ 223/224 with .550" lift, but today I spoke with the engine guy who said it could use another 15 degree duration and .050" lift so I'll probably go that way; but I want a lopey idle and I'm not worried about spinning it to 6,000rpm most gears. The current cam would be just fine if I wanted to keep it. MSD 6AL & pro billet distributor means it boots up instantly, especially with a hi torque starter. I'm using ARP head studs just because I can and all critical bolts are ARP too. I'm not chasing power and would be happy with 400 at the flywheel. Depending on what expert you talk to it will make 450-500-550. The biggest issue with the Ford block is at decent power - say 500 or more - they fail and split. I don't want nor can afford that so what ever it makes, it makes (but I did spend another $500 on cleaning the ports up). The Sniper is a big ticket item but I am a convert. It starts everytime hot or cold, no hesitation when cold, timing is integrated with the MSD stuff, gas consumption seems to be good and I can set the idle and when the fans come on from my seat. For what it is, at the price it is, I think it's great. Plus when I install the new motor I change the cubes, the cam type and it will adjust fuel to suit. No going to the dyno for me! Dollar terms this will owe me somewhere around $5,000 US when done but the only part that is used is the block - everything else is new. One thing - beware of crate engines. A certain blue coloured brand has been making waves down here for some real dud assemblies. My engine guy has done a lot of value-added stuff; bearing checks on the crank, decking the block to suit compression, checked valve springs, skimmed the heads for flatness, balanced it, and generally taking pride in his work, I doubt a crate engine would see all that effort. Plus, I know exactly what's in it as I bought it and I will screw it all together.
  • Create New...