smh00n

That’s really helpful. It has the routing and the colours which are easy to read. NPD have this set https://www.npdlink.com/product/air-conditioning-vacuum-hose-set/103380 but not listed for our years.

Do you know how to source the hoses? If they are just a 1/8” rubber I can probably get them here. I’ll test the vacuum can for vacuum, if it is NFG are there kits or I just chuck any old one on? if there is a manifold under the dash chances are it is busted as well so clues on getting that?

Dragging this back up; this is a factory a/c car but I am not replacing/fixing the a/c as we live in a cool climate. do I need to replace all the vacuum hoses under the dash to just have heat from the cooling system? Or are all the hoses I see for the a/c side of things? We’ve just moved house so all my books are in a box somewhere. I've ordered the heater core from summit and need the heater box seals and everything else to warm me up. It looks like all the heater stuff is there, just old and tired. The cables seem to work although very stiff (I assume cables operate the blend door and vents?)

Dakota just ordered. looks like I might have to hack the harness unless I can find something that can adapt.

Did some more browsing and VMF have shiitecanned NVU gauges. Dakota here I come.

New Vintage have made some but I’m not sure what pin count we have. https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/snap-adapt-plug-and-play/

Men I need new gauges for my ride. whats the better choice? Looking at black with white needles. Has someone made an adaptor plug from the factory harness plug to either brand control module/cluster?

Check the control valve specs. The bolt inside it is torqued to inch Lb not foot Lb like everything else. That controls the steering and nearly all issues you state are control valve issues. +1 for Chockostang, he know his stuff.

I have the same tank but stock rotating gas cap. I’ve plumbed a 3/8” pipe from the vent outlet on the pump to the back of the car. Never had an issue like you describe. To me it is pressurising gas and air in the system which then needs to vent. The TPV6 valve is a pressure relief valve, not a vent valve according to Newton equipment. Their TRL valves are vent valves. I’m not across them but if you need a tank vent that closes in a roll over I don’t think the TPV valve is the product.

Lots to report this time round viewers, so grab a beer (not Bud Lite) and settle down. Mission tailpipe complete. 2.5" from the mufflers back. Whilst it has reduced the noise inside the car, there is still a drone at around 2,000 - 2,500 which is right at suburban drive speeds but it is improved. I can now hear the radio at a sensible level not thumping like before. The man also tweaked the LH pipe from the header to the X pipe as I had managed to sit that too high and it was hitting the frame. But the worst part part my expensive new FPA headers had a pinhole at the merge collector. Then we decided to move states. So, the car needs to go 800 miles away and not bust, overheat, or be bad. I had a few chores I knew that needed to be done, so these started getting ticked off; Replacing the front springs. Our go-to company down here is King Springs and I had a set of front springs in it from our local small caer, a Ford Cortina. Whilst the spring rate is the same as the V8 Mustang, they were an inch shorter. So sexy to look at with the tyre just touching the guard but it was too low. I kept scraping the pipes on roll overs, and one time it was so bad it tweaked the already-tweaked LH pipe even more. So, I bought a pair of springs and inch higher and chucked them in. Plenty of clearance but for me it sits too high. This is on the to-do list with a later chore at the rear. A by-proudct of this was the wjheel alignment was out - badly - so that was on the plans too. The brakes had never been great - I could never get the emergency brake (we call it a 'handbrake') to hold the car, and it also held still on hills, and I suspected I had goofed with the booster/master cylinder clearance. I bought one of them 20 buck H shaped tools off ebay and oulled the master. I needed to turn the adjustment screw about 8 times, so it was well out. Now, the handbrake holds it, it don't have an auto-hill-holder and the brakes aren't hot from a 10 minute drive. The tengine emperature on this had been gradually creeping up. It did run pretty well at 82° with the expected spikes at stops, but it started sitting at 86-87° and higher. I initially put it down to the crazy timing and hotter weather. The fix, I thought, was in buying some big-ass CFM fans, so I splashed out on some SPAL 12" puller fans rated at 1,480CFM, better than the ~1,100 CFM I had on there. I also thought to make up an actual shroud, as they were just fitted using some alloy angle to hold them top and bottom, then bolted to the rear sides of the core. Simple but effective. I bought a sheet of 4mm alloy and cut out 12" holes in it, mounted the fans to it and then bolted the whole thing back ont he radiator. Bit of black paint and it looked pro. Cost of $75 bucks all done. One quite warm day I set off for an hour drive in peak hour traffic to get a wheel alignment. On the way it got pretty hot - about 90° - and I had fans cutting out. Not great but I got it there. The wheel alignment resulted in a few things; 1. The $240 quote went to $440 without explanation. They did spend 4 hours on it, they have made it drive 1,000% better but sticker shock hit hard. 2. Borgeson conversions in Mustangs are crap. Earlier in the piece I discussed my issues with bump steer after the conversion and these guys confirmed it. The pitman arm sits too high when the box is installed, which I suspected as the drag link was not level. They had done a few Chev conversions, a Mopar facebook post rated them highly but for our cars the recipe ain't right. They did say they had seen elongated the bolt holes in the frame to fix them but not a great fix. So, I decided that I ought to rebuild the original steering box and ram, as I had a specialist in the next suburb and when we move the costs wil increase with freight. no surprise on this car, the steering box was NFG. What I think is the ball nut had broken and the guy told me I was lucky it didn't jam stuck. Eeek I drove the POS for 4 years like that. Luckily he mahaed to find another, so now I have a rebuilt box and ram to go back in at some stage. It was on the short drive to pick up the steering stuff that the temperature went bad. Near on boiled, the fans were constantly running and the circuit got so hot it tripped a 70 amp circuit breaker I had installed and near melted the 2 30 amp relays in the circuit. So, I removed the full-width shroud thinking possibly air flow was being restricted. No change. Another 70 hucks for relays and 50 amp auto circuit breakers, for just in case they were tripping too. Put back the 2 alloy angles holding the fans - I had to buy more material, 40 bucks thanks - but no change. Still hot, wouldn't cool down. This was strange as the SPAL fans pulled 250+ CFM more than the old ones and they did keep it somewhat under control. So, next was remove the cheesecloth filter sock that was in the top hose. It was slightly clogged but not blocked. No change. Last - the thermostat. Some of you may have already gone there in your mind but I was being methodical. And it was a new high flow unit installed with the new lump 12 months ago. Reefed it out, dropped it into a pot of boiling water. Nothing. Nix. Nada. No movement at the station there. Freakin POS cost me over 200 bucks in parts, time, stress and hassle. 15 bucks and a day later I had a new standard 82° thermostat installed. Took it for a spin just now, temp runs steady, fans pull it down from 84° to 82° in about 3 minutes. The Sniper stumble issue was getting to me so I took matters into my own hands and increased the cold fuel compensation up 50% to around 160° (F) and this has improved it an amount but it may need some more. I'm not comfortable playing with that kinda tuning stuff which is why I put up with it for so long. Last, I have massive axle tramp issues. So bad, the diff pinion is making a notch in the trans tunnel. Maier 4.5 leaf springs aren't available form shops here, so I've bought a pair of Scott Drake 4.5 leaf mid eyes on the recommendation of my favourite Mustang shop they will fix the problem. They'll go into the container to be shipped to the new joint and I'll put them in later. Depends on who you ask they either raise or lower the car. Duh, I hate the interwebs sometimes. I have lots of photos but I'm getting an error message so can't load them.

Found one locally, $400 AUD to buy and rebuild.

Yeah, my mistake. 16:1

Anyone have a half decent steering box they don't need? Mine has just been diagnosed and NFG and they are not exactly common down here. I can get it shipped to a US address so low hassle for you. 'Half decent' is one that is not broke internally and can be rebuilt. I have no idea what they sell for so a price guide would be great. Just found these ; https://www.holley.com/products/suspension_and_chassis/steering_components/steering_gear_box/parts/C8ZZ-3548-P Are they any good?

I had the same concern, and when I did my Borgeson conversion, I added a roller bearing to the bottom of the column. Had to machine a sleeve to loacate it as the OD's didn't match. Then just used the original rag joint.

If this is still an issue, I think the fans are under powered. I have had issue with my cooling of late - I had the radiator serviced and then filled it with red coolant, based on alloy heads, a bit of marketing and environmental claims. It ran 10 degree's hotter regardless of running, with a 24' radiator and dual 12" electric fans I did some research and the CFM recommend for this motor (347W) was about 3,000 CFM. The 2 original fans were only 1,100 CFM each so missing some airflow. I just bought 2 x SPAL 12" fans (SPAL Thermo Puller Fan - 12" - 12V - 1430 CFM - VA34-AP70/LL-36A) that pull 1,430 CFM each which hopefully will fix the issue. I'm also going back to good ol' Green coolant as it ran pretty much at 82° in suburban running.