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About smh00n

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

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498 profile views
  1. smh00n

    Just what every mechanic needs!

    I'll have a blonde in XL please. Now I'm wondering if my ass crack is worthy....
  2. smh00n

    It's Back! So WTF Happened?

    Another forum I haunt uses https://postimages.org/ seems to be the same as photobucket but without the hassle. No idea how/what/why/if as I don't do a lot of pictures
  3. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    I wonder if my repro master cylinder has that. From memory it is a Dorman (I think the box was green). The fluid in the rear cylinders I found may be because this cylinder does not have one. Might have to try a pressure gauge to see what pressure they have to the rear. I suppose a 2Lb aftermarket valve would be correct?
  4. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Doc, yep short shoe to the front. I'll rip this thing to pieces this weekend and make sure it is all right. As for experience I've played with cars for years but this is first Mustang so feeling my way a little bit on the nuances.
  5. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks. Looks like its on the bench, as I have the rear cylinders off. At least I can check the little bludger is working as it should anyway. Barnettt - my reply was a bit abrupt. I was lucky, the fluid was contained inside the boot so no contamination.
  6. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    No fluid here Barney, not my first rodeo
  7. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Hold the phone! Made a call to a decent brake shop, lovely lady looks up her catalogue and says I'll have 2 x 3/4" cylinders here tomorrow. So I'll give them a go and see how we fare.
  8. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks Stangs. I have found one part of the issue - my 6-month old wheel cylinders have rust through them. The old fluid must have had water in it. cars barely been driven whilst I sort this brake stuff out. I've ordered new ones and will flush the system completely to clean it. In Aus, the correct fix it to use smaller cylinders, to take pressure out of the system. I am using 13/16" or 20.64mm wheel cylinders. I think ideally 5/8" ones would fix it, or 3/4" at a pinch. Anyone know of a car that has cylinders in this size? To sleeve them is pretty dear here - about US$150 a pair. Otherwise that valve might do. That will make the 3rd set-up for the car :( Dumb question #2; how do you get the prop valve piston centred? I made up my own bolt but wondering how you ensure the valve is centred. Bit hard to see down there as well.
  9. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    righto off the the shed I go
  10. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    The second valve in the pictures is listed as 68-69 only. 70 have the style at the top. Are you saying the 68-69 with the angled valve piped in is what I need??
  11. smh00n

    70 rear brakes locking

    Thanks guys. My confusion is with the distribution block; I have bought one the same as the one in the top picture, but without the valve and piping. It takes the fluid from the 2 outlets on the master and splits it 2 ways to the front and one to the rears. It has the brake light switch in the body, so I assume this is also a proportioning valve. Barnett, the calipers are same diameter as the OEM Mustang ones and the fronts have never been an issue. With the booster, the feel is as good as you can expect so I don't think that's the issue. My problem is only in the rear. Maybe I need to try a doctors forum??? I didn't mention, the rear brakes are 10" x 1.75". I went to the smallest cylinders I could find (7/8"). Next step down is 5/8" but that's a $200 investment. I think I have the standard 13/16"? - 29/32"? in there now so could try the 7/8" again. I'll check today. Barnett the rears lock from dead cold and I've not got them hot. Another test I did was to put on a local master cylinder (1" bore, inbuilt proportioning valve) with an adjustable valve on but that did very little to change the rear. (I have tried a lot of things to fix this). Doug, is the prop valve you mention the same as pictured? I have the one without the valve and piping. I have read that you need to lock the shuttle piston centred when bleeding the brakes. The Ford manual does not mention that so do I need to lock the shuttle piston off when bleeding? Today I will back off the brakes so no drag, check the cylinder sizing, pressure bleed the brakes and try it out. Watch this space.
  12. This is driving me a bit nuts. I'll try to give you all the issues so you can advise. I have got the brakes working pretty well, but is still locking 1 rear then the other, under harder braking. Fronts lock fine when banged on but the rears will grab on light applications. The right side locks first then left. This is an improvement over both locking at once. To give you an idea of when they lock, you're driving down the road at 30mph and some goose stops in front of you, meaning you have to hit the brakes not hard-god-damn-I'm-dead but enough to pull up quick. This is when I have rear brakes lock. 90% of the time it's fine but do you want to be in front of me when I use that last 10%? I have a 70 which I think was a drum brake, non boosted car. When I bought it, it had been converted to front discs with a booster. What I have done and found so far: 69 pedal and booster have been fitted. I have checked measurements and definitely a 69. Unsure if the pedal box is a 70; will this cause issues? Assuming not, then the pedal and booster match as I replaced them. The booster was new from a US ebay site, it does look the same as what came off. It is a dual diaphragm one and is the 69 with the drop down eye on the booster to pedal rod. Repro disc master cylinder fitted. The booster and master have been setup by a local brake shop with correct push rod depth. Braking seems normal. Pedal may be a tad soft but. The front calipers and rotors are probably from an Aussie Falcon. Very similar to the OEM calipers. Front brakes are not the issue; I can modulate their performance fine. Distribution block and piping replaced with a later, although similar, distribution block Standard 302 with about 80 horsepower :( C4 auto robbing a further 20 horses Bled multiple times via the up/down pedal method. Pedal feels OK, firm, not too much movement before brakes engage New brake cables New rear std wheel cylinders New rear shoes, radius ground to match the drums New fitting kit for the rear shoes Rear brakes adjusted by locking drums then pulling back so there is a little drag. I can spin the wheel but there is drag there. So, am I missing a residual valve somewhere? My workshop manual does not show anything like that But I don't know why a virtually stock brake car has these issues. When I got the car the brakes were total junk and locked up at will. All the changes I have made have improved it but I am now chasing this last issue. I am a perfectionist if you were wondering... So, my questions are: 1. Do I need to get the bolt to stop the distribution valve moving when bleeding? I have not done this so far. 1a. Will bleeding them with a pressure bleeder make a difference? I'll probably have to do this anyway as I am solo worker. 2. Does it need a proportioning valve? I see Cobranda has the block and valve but only up to 69. What changed in 70 to remove it?
  13. smh00n

    Good quality grill moldings?

    I need the clips that hold the finishing panel under the main grill to the lower front panel. Is the centre one the right one? And what part number?
  14. I am too, so if there's 2 on offer....
  15. I want to update my stock gauges with new ones, like the NVU or Classic Instruments offerings. Any recommendations on what are better ones? I like the 4 dial setups better than the 6 dials.