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smh00n last won the day on January 9 2020

smh00n had the most liked content!

About smh00n

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    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

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  1. That's correct, but if you use them as a matched pair then they work. You can't put a 69 pedal on a 70 booster (and vice versa). From what I have learned over the past day the pedal box is the same regardless of brake. Looks like I am missing 2 brackets to the firewall.
  2. You in Brisvegas and you are cheering for the 'riff? What am I missing here
  3. Damn yes! If you could send me where the triangular bracket bolts on the lower bolt holes that would be great. Mine has A/C so trying to see past the vent hoses is a bit of a nightmare. If it is also easy to send a shot of the pressed metal brace that goes form the dash to the firewall I'd appreciate it. Can send you my email if thats easier.
  4. Just pulled the dash - I am missing 015A18 and 04510/01524 brackets. The triangular one and the pressed steel straight one. Spoke to Leigh and he confirmed the 01508 bracket is the same so I just need to check what bracket they have used. I'm sure I checked and it was a 69 power brake pedal with a 69 booster in the car.
  5. This has studs for all the booster mounts. But I don't know if it is original as the whole thing is a sh*t fight
  6. Thanks Rsanter. I will dial up Leigh and see if he can assist. Very few 69 and 70 Downunder so its a struggle to get bits.
  7. Are these any good and is the shop worth dealing with? https://www.macsautoparts.com/1970-mustang-brake-and-clutch-pedal-support-to-dash-bracket-set-3-pieces-44-48672-1.html
  8. Well, this thing is a total stuff up. They have put a 69 pedal and booster into it. I have had to replace the booster so went with what was in it. I've not pulled what I call the pedal box (P/N 01508) out but I need to when I convert it to stick. Hopefully it is a '70 and is a power brake assembly. If it's not, then that will explain all the hassles I've had with trying to get the brakes on this thing sorted. I'm pretty sure that P/N 015A18 is missing, as I think that bolts to the aluminium spacers on the steering column top mount (?). If so, then that is missing too. Any one have a complete power disc, stick trans pedal assembly for a 70 they have for sale?
  9. Gentlemens My 70 has been badly converted from manual drum to power disc front brakes. Recently I saw that a brace between the dash and pedal support is used on factory discs; P/N 01524 from the MPC My questions are a) Do I need to fit this brace b) if yes, does anyone have one? A search of the interwebs doesn't bring up the part number.
  10. That's a trusty BA Falcon RTV ute. Pull anything in comfort. They either had the Barra 6 cylinder or the apology that was the 5.4 3V V8. You'll get 500 easy out of a turbo Barra. They are even being sent to the US. Australia's response to the LS everything movement :)
  11. Thanks. I am converting the lights to LED and was going to use 10.0v as a reference for the load, but today I checked all the wires for voltage and somehow the voltage has now jumped to 12.5 on both light circuits. Dunno how I changed it, definitely some elec-trickery going on. At least now I can go forward with my lights and power box and not have to start again. I'm building the lights myself and not use a commercial unit.
  12. Another question - what sort of voltage should I see at both stop and tail lights, at the rear lights? I checked yesterday and I'm seeing about 10.5v on the stop and closer to 11.0v on the tail. It does change a bit with engine revs which I didn't think would happen (?). I suspect the stop light circuit is not correct as there is some replacement wiring, and it may be higher resistance than OEM but knowing the 'correct' voltage will make it easier for me.
  13. The MSD white wire shuts it all off so I personally don't see the need for a pump cut off. Just another switch to remember to turn on. I have an inertia switch here somewhere, I should really fit it as I think the pump still runs if the engine stalls. I'll have to check that out myself now I've said it.
  14. I have a Sniper on my car and very happy with it. From first start it just ran well and I have never had an issue. I used the base kit. My set up is the Sniper with a MSD 6AL, 8479 distributor and a Holley EFI tank. I use the sniper to manage timing and electric fans. I have a Edelbrock torker manifold (the original, not a Torker II) on a tired old 302 ( I have a 347 just waiting to out together whenever I get time) Couple of points I'd change; The Holley tank is a pain as all the fittings come through the top. Basically you need a false floor to protect the lines which I am still thinking about how to do. I'd probably look at the fuel sender module with pump if I did this again. The pump is a little bit loud but that can be a wank factor as the people watching realise its not a standard car. The fuel sender caused me all sorts of grief. While the Ohms might be correct, you actually need to change the float level to have the gauge read right. I think I pulled it out 6 times trying to make it read right. I'm about 1/8" off I reckon to having it 'perfect' The wiring I followed to the letter, good earths, strong positives and no cross over of wires. Only hassle I had was the MSD and Holley guides had different instructions for wiring the distributor into the 6AL box (Holley instructions are correct, btw). Hot or cold, I have decent starts. I have a MSD hi torque starter and like 0 gauge wires all through the start circuit. I control the idle, I control when the fans come on and off, I can set the AFR, all sitting in the driver seat. You can change the fuel map but that's well over my pay grade or care factor. I know there are lots of horror stories out there for Sniper and Fitech, but when you read all the issues it comes down to power and earth (for Holley, I don't look at FiTech but they seem to be the same). Like I said, from the first start this thing just booted up, settled into a nice idle and has never let me down. Disclaimer; I've only done around 500 miles on it over the past year so it's not getting worn out any time soon. I went with Holley as they have been out there for over 100 years and were the original supplier to Ford, so they must do something right.
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