Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About smh00n

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Fast cars, fast girls, Beer. No particular order

Recent Profile Visitors

632 profile views
  1. You need a speaker with just under 2" from the mount face to the back of the speaker (well in my car thats the case). I'm putting mine in the original position just under the door trim in the steel part of the door (I don't have a Mach 1 so not a full door trim) and keeping the original speaker grilles.
  2. Spend more money than you first thought. Speakers make the sound and if you enjoy your tunes it's worth it. My wife has a Kicker system in her daily and for me they need to be pumping to perform and lack bass and mid range. I went to buy a Rockfod Fosgate setup for my 70 but the shop steered me into Hertz Audio based on I wasn't after popping windows out of the car. Yet to instal tham but they reckon they do lots of systems with them.
  3. Another one for brakes and steering. New standard stuff is all I would use (and am using) The hourly rate is what I'd look at. To redo the front and rear with stock stuff I reckon a bloke by himself would do that in 2 days so a 'pro' should take less than that. In our part of the world mechanics would be getting around $80-100 an hour so that's 15 hours. If you're halfway handy you could have a go yourself. They are a pretty simple suspension set up and you do 1 side at a time so you can refer to the other if you get lost.
  4. Well I feel like a goose. Not checking properly and dirty terminal was the issue. Plus I was using an LED light which didn't have enough resistance. Used a bulb light, cleaned the terminal and all is working. D'Oh.
  5. No It's a no-name brand from here in Australia. It is internally regulated and self-exciting. The light I have needs a ground so I'm not sure how to do it (I am rookie sparky), plus it is LED. I was told I needed a filament bulb but not sure if that is correct for a self exciting alternator. If I wire in the light from the "I" terminal to a switched 12v wire on the ignition switch it only lights up when the engine is running, not when it is not. Do I need the resistor and/or a filament bulb?
  6. I changed the alternator on my 70 to a 100 amp unit. The PO had already done this and didn't use the original voltage regulator but had an idiot light installed. I didn't really check how it was done, but they had cut into the 2 wires coming from the harness, ran a wire to the light and back and then into the harness. The other wire came direct from the alternator into this harness. I've tried a few different things; a wire direct from the output terminal on the alternator to a switched wire at the ignition switch has the light on when the engine is running and off when not. If I try to plug the 2 wires from the harness, it powers the MSD box and causes the engine to diesel on shut off. 1 wire is hot all the time and 1 is switched with the ignition. I've looked at all the wiring diagrams and I can't figure out what to do. Any clues? Surely I can just run a wire to a new light on the dash and it will work??
  7. Upgrade 2; MSD 6AL system (and then starter, relay, battery cables scope creep) So, with the Sniper running good it was on to the next stage - fitting a MSD6AL, ready to run distributor and a blaster coil. First up, I had been supplied a vacuum advance distributor from the shop I bought the whole kit from. Duh; vacuum advance isn't used on MSD. So, lets remove the vacuum advance and lock out the rotor. Read MSD instructions, follow them and it's not right. The shaft for the vacuum unit won't come out the little hole. Despite trying, and making a bit of a mess I took matters into my own hand and pulled the top half off. Yabba dabba doo, easy. Dratted little stud caused all this issue. When you pull the top half off it's easy. So, now I have a distributor time to move on. The Holley Sniper instructions tell you that you also need an adjustable rotor. For why they don't say but I dutifully paid my bucks and bought one. Now, where to put the box. It's an a/c car so under the dash is no room. Lots of room on drivers side but all the power is on the passenger side. And there's a particularly ugly starter solenoid over there. Only one thing to do.... Change this: To this: I had a Tilton super starter on the shelf to install, so why not know? New 00 B&S cables to the starter and ground, a relay to cope with the starter loads and while I'm at it why not put in a power distribution block to handle all the power needs. To protect the alternator circuit I also made up a fusible link in 6 B&S cable. I would have liked a nice circuit breaker but nothing was sexy enough to put in. This is the business of the red cables. The alternator feed is plugged into the battery cable which is 8 B&S. The other side has power going to the relay for the starter and across the other side the relays for the headlights. I also pulled the original wiring harness down and hooked the power feed into the distribution block. The wire sitting up is the coil feed ('I' side of the original solenoid) and the original amp meter wires I have left. I'l run an idiot light from the alternator to the dash until I make a decision on what gauges I am going with. The battery cables are probably too big, but I want a reliable car that is over-engineered. As well as crimping all teminals to the big wires I dropped some solder in as well. No electric failures I hope. So with the new starter installed, relay in place and wiring sorted now to put the MSD box in. I'm not totally happy with this, I should have put the power distribution block up on the strut tower and put the MSD box right down, but there's still time to change. The wires running across the top are the power and earth for the Sniper and I looped the 6AL wiring into the conduit as well. Now there's more hassle with MSD wiring. Both Sniper and 6AL books gave me different instructions (to my dumb-ass eyes anyway) and it wasn't clear how to do it. A quick watch of the Holley video on fitting a 6AL with a Sniper gave me the answer; distributor output to the CD box witht he included extension cable, grey wire from the box to the purple and green wire from the Sniper, using the included plug which had only the purple wire. The white wire normally used for a coil driver is not used, but you can use it for a kill switch. The yellow wire which was used to trigger the coil now becomes redundant. It is probably me but I found the instructions a bit confusing. I put the coil on the driver side as I had run out of room and just extended the power wires across (about a foot anyway). Now for the kick in the pants - the Holley video didn't mention anything about adjustable rotors, putting the distributor retarded 15 degree's. Just whack it in about 10 degrees BTDC and lock it in. So I have a spare, brand new adjustable rotor. Great. Last steps, install the plug wires (MSD 8.5mm) check for lost tools/wires/hands and boot it up. Yes, that K&N filter just misses the plug ends. Still need to put the wire routers on to make it neater, but that will come with the new engine. Started first go, timing was showing on the Sniper screen and all was good. First thing I noticed is it idled too high. So, I backed off the idle screw a tad and it settled down (this is in direct contrast to having to wind it up when first installed) Took it for a run, runs well but I haven't driven it enough to complete the learning. The install was nice and easy, the biggest issue was trying to find a decent spot to put things and to route the wiring nicely. Once I had the wires figured out it was fine. I used decent tools for this - a Narva (local go-to brand) pro wire crimper, a B&S terminal crimper and a decent soldering iron and blow torch. I used heat shrink on all connections and cable-tied it all back. They did make it easy, terminal crimps first time, no waste. If you're wondering I have a trickle charger on the battery which is what the clips on the battery terminals are.
  8. I need the spring for the hood latch on a 70. Can you buy them or have to go whole new repop?
  9. Based on this experience I'd not hesitate to do it again. A few guys have dissed the concept as low rent but my needs were being able to fit it easily, it willimprove the performance and be able to adapt to performance improvements. As I have a 347 to go into it, I'm happy with not having to visit a dyno guy twice to get the thing running well.
  10. I'm about 2 months away from doing the same thing, but I am using a 302/8.2" deck block. Same specs, shorty headers, full MD kit. And I also bought all the bits 4 years ago... From what I have read the only issue is the brake booster clearance where the cable enters the firewall (I assume you are using MD cable clutch conversion?) with the 9" booster being the issue. The 8" booster (which I have) is better as the cable is supposed to go in right next to the booster. The motor mounts only seem to be needed to get the shaker sitting right, although I can't get my K&N air filter on with the current Torker intake. I've got a RPM air gap as well to go on the new motor so hopefully it is a bit lower. But I'm happy to chuck a shaker on it :)
  11. Thanks. I wasn't sure if Grabbers were anything to talk about. There's a website for them http://1970mgr.org/index.html if you didn't know about it
  12. I'll second that. My brake light switch works OK. The studs are way too long so the OEM cast dual reservoir cylinder cannot be removed without pulling the entire booster. One of the reasons I went with the local master which is much shorter along with a bit of rookie not knowing what should be correct on these things.
  13. It's a long way from Dearborn to Sydney and I don't have any history one the life of this car. All I know is that it was sold in NY State and was bought in Texas and exported to Melbourne, Australia. This is a Grabber pack, which along with a 302/auto supplied such things as a driver and passenger sports mirror, blacked out rear panel and 69 Boss striping. I bought it in 2015 and have only just started to get work done on it. House renovations with an endless scope creep slowed me right up. The car isn't too bad and seems to be rust free. Plenty of bog in it and a few dodgy lines but as you see in the picture it looks good for afar. I wanted a car that I didn't have to do paint and panel as I'm no good at that but mechanically I'm all over it. First issue I had was brakes that were like an on/off switch. A very long story here but the key points were the brake booster was missing the rubber reaction pad and the pushrod was the long length. After 2 total brake setups fitted I now have decent brakes. I had to go to an adjustable brake proportioning valve to get a decent result and I used a local Ford Falcon dual line brake master cylinder, which has the brake light switch built into it. The plan is to drop in a roller 347 with alloy heads, a TKO600 5 speed and keep the 8" but change to a true trac with 3.50 gears. I've also got a Borgeson power steer setup for it but unsure if that will get fitted. Our registration rules here forbid any welding on any steering item and all modifications need to be passed by a mechanical engineer. Borgeson have advised that they have had customers from here have the steering boxes Xrayed for certification. Unfortunately I bought all the bits I needed when I bought the car so don't have the new style cast case. So, the first thing to do after getting the thing registered was to fit a Holley Sniper kit. I wanted to do this before the new engine setup went in so I didn't have Big Drama's. So, here's the way it panned out. I bought the base system and decided I'd go for the EFI tank from Holley as well. I want a car that is integrated, reliable and works. So, the fuel tank arrived and despite being in a Holley box, was in fact a Tanks Inc unit. So at least it's a known quantity. However since then the in-tank senders and pumps have been released and I'd go that way if I did it today. Especially when the car had a brand new tank in it already. The fuel lines and filters I decided to do out of Aeroflow stuff - cheap, local and plenty of choices in fittings. My first plan of running -8 AN stuff was foiled, as the tank fittings didn't allow -8 fittings to, well, fit. They don't tell you that on the box. Dammit. Back to Evil Bay and -6 stuff is bought. Anyway, who wants to be a tryhard with 800hp fuel lines on a 250hp motor?? I'm using barb fittings and secured by one use hose clamps. Then I figured why I am running $14/metre EFI hose twice? So I bought some alloy 3/8" fuel pipe made by Aeroflow. I'd prefer to do steel but couldn't find it. This was run up the transmission tunnel with EFI hose joining at each end. Next, drop in the tank. The original mounting using tek screws didn't cut it so I put in nutserts and used 1/4" stainless button heads for a sexy finish. The way the pump is mounted in the tank is a pain the in ringthing and it means you have to have hoses exposed. Due to the bigger tank in the 70 it sits flush with the boot sides so a false floor will need some thought. Aeroflow came to the party with a 10 micron filter and neat billet alloy mount, so I cut up some 2mm sheet and mounted it to the lip under the tank. Makes for a neat hose routing and easy to remove and clean out. I ran the fuel hoses through the boot floor using the original power wire for the sender hole and another which I drilled in. I also sheathed the original fuel sender wire and the new fuel pump wire and routed then neatly. Up the pointy end the more observant may have spotted an issue - a 4bbl sniper going on to a 2bbl manifold. Easy fix - a Edelbrock Torker and 4bbl was for sale cheap. Sold. Routing the wiring was fairly easy. Holley are pretty clear on wiring right first time and not to run wires next to others, and to have clean power sources. In this shot the new 12v feed from the ignition switch is the sheathed cable and the main harness from the Sniper is cable tied to it. So, I spent about 2 hours trying to find clean power under the dash. The wiring had been hacked to out a better voltage resistor in, but it also has new coil wiring, a feed from the oil light and power back to a electric fuel pump. Everything I tried pulled 13.6v static but down to just under 11v when cranking. Time was a wasting so I plugged into the green/black wire after the ignition switch pink wire. At the coil there is a resister wire but stuffed if I know where they plugged it in - all the intel says a 70 has the resistor wire back to the switch. Don't you love old cars? On this wire I used some cable sheathing that is the same as what Holley uses, so it looks factory. The carb/injection/carbtion is pretty easy to hook up. Holley give you everything, down to cable ties and wiring connections so you just need to keep going back to the box to pick up bits. I ran the main power harness off to the right hand side of the engine bay as it had the most room, plus the battery and also fits in with future plans for power and starter wiring. On the battery I used Narva quick connectors so the battery can be pulled easy. The 12v switched supply I used a waterproof connector similar to the Holley stuff. The coil wire I just used a blue fitting and left the wire exposed. I'll try to get some real small sheathing and clad it in the next stage. The oxygen sensor I put into the LH pipe, simply because the wiring comes off the LH side of the carbtion. The accelerator cable hook up is simple - there is a plate supplied that has the correct square hole for the cable and also 4 different studs. I now have 3 spare studs if any laydeez are interested. I already had a new cable so in it went. Alignment is good. The original return spring is too heavy so I need to change that to a lighter one. Water temp sender I put into the manifold itself, as it needs water flow (thanks Mustang 360) and I put the gauge one into the thermostat housing. Fuel pipes I had terminated about block height and ran 2 EFI hoses up to the carbtion into -6 fittings. Nice and neat. The fuel pump feed wire was plenty long enough to go through the firewall, under the LH sill plate and back out into the trunk. This is run off a relay so plug and play. Last chore is to get the 3.5" screen (sounds great until you realise that's a horizontal measurement, not diagonal) inside the car. So far, so good. A couple of things I think I did good was to use a decent crimping tool for the electrical fittings. I bought a Narva one for about $100 and it was worth the cost. One shot crimping, no duds. I also have a Toledeo wire stripper so again, one go and it's done. I also thought about the wiring and routed it away from the other wiring. Holley actually say cross existing wiring at right angles and don't use the aluminium sheathing which I did consider to stop interference and their manuals have on there after all the 'don'ts' that you'll thank them later for doing it right. Thanks Holley. Now, to start up. Turn it on, the system takes 2.5 seconds to cycle on and power the fuel pump. It has a bit of noise to start but I never noticed it again. Go through some screens on engine spec (cubes, cam, nitrous, ignition type) hit save and boot it up. (I'm working on getting that 2,000 cube monsta motor delivered next week) Instant start up! I didn't read the instructions to the end so the idle was too high but a couple of left turns on the idle screw on the carbtion fixed that. You can set your own idle speed so I chose 775 rpm. Because I could. Driving it the first thought is no coughing or hesitation from dead cold. Response is much better and it's just a nice thing. Driving down the road the display is constantly changing as it picks up the data and adjusts 'things' to suit. So, as I stated at the start the base line was pretty naff but even on a dead stock 302 there is a big change in throttle response, the way it performs and the feel of the car. It now bags the rear up easy (OK, it's a single spinner with 14" tyres that are as hard as a steel track but let me have some glory). I took my time with this and did the install over 3 part days by myself. I needed to get new clamps for the oxygen sensor adaptor, as the supplied ones are 2 3/8" and were too big for my pissy 2" pipes. I can't get an air cleaner on there with the Torker manifold. I will be using an RPM air gap when I build the 347 so I'll have to think about putting either a hole in the hood or a shaker. This conversion cost me probably $2,000 all up but I wanted to use all AN fittings and run new fuel lines and to make it look a nice install. I think it's pretty good value for me, as I don't have to muck around with carbs, tuning and poor cold starts. With all of 30 minutes driving around the local streets so far I am sold on it and am really impressed with how it works. Next step is to plug in a MSD6AL, MSD distributor and coil and let the carbtion do the timing as well.
  14. I’m pretty sure it was the rubber pad missing from the pushrod inside the booster that was the on/off issue. Then the length of the pushrod caused a low pedal once I fixed the pad. I was chasing a rear brake locking issue so had a lot of mis-information to deal with. In the end I went with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear and removed all the original valve block set up. Brakes are good now about as good as my ‘14 daily drive
  • Create New...