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danno last won the day on February 22

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About danno

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1954


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    Electronics Design Engineer

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  1. You are right, it has before on other recessions. The trouble is this crisis could be over in a few months, and we are back on the happy days again. Make an offer, you never know.
  2. Unfortunately, I had to make the system. I was working on putting together something I could sell, but have not got that far on it yet. There really is nothing out there on the market, and I can tell there is large demand. I am going to rework it this summer and see if I can make it easy enough to sell a kit so others can do it.
  3. On this one, each fuse has a LED next to it, the little green dot. I press the red button and all fuses that have power will light the LED. That way it is easy to find the blown fuse, it is the one that does not have the LED turn on. I would guess you do not want anything as elaborate, but ti might give you an idea about doing yours.
  4. I put in a box on the driver's side fender because next to the battery was too busy and jammed together. I removed the cover so you can see inside. It has a bunch of fuses on top, conections, circuit breakers, and 3 relays. ACC1, ACC 2 are relays that turn on with the key in accessory. One relay is for items I want on when the ignition is on. I might redo the whole thing and add the relays for my audio amplifiers. headlights and horn.
  5. Do you have a caliper ( micrometer)? You can measure the diameter and then use a chart to determine the size. Another way is to go to a local hardware store and clip a 1 inch section of wires they have that are close. Compare what you know from the sort sections of wire that you clipped to what you want. For both methods, check the wire, not the wire with the insulation.
  6. The fact that your horn does not work tells me you have the turn signal switch wires mixed up. The horn should have nothing to do with anything you did. if it worked before and not now, that tells me you have the wires in the "half moon" round connector in the wrong locations. All it takes is 2 to be in the wrong place, and that could do it. The easiest thing for people ( like those at AAW) to suggest is to simply replace things until it starts working, rather than diagnosing the real problem. If you had diagnosed the real problem, you probably could have saved the cost of a new switch and flasher. Part of the trouble is that most of us on this site have no idea of the wires in a AAW harness. The connections and colors could be completely different from an original Mustang. From your description, I would guess you have a short somewhere in the brake lights that is blowing the fuse. That will also cause the turn signals to stop working. I would disconnect the turn signal switch and make sure all of your wires are good first. I could explain how to do it with a factory harness and bulbs, but with AAW and LED taillihgts, I am not sure where to begin. Maybe others can help. In the mean time verify all the wires to your new switch are in the right places. It seems like you have at least 2 in the wrong place.
  7. Whatever AAW used, it might not be large enough for your alternator. According to the national electric code, for 95 amps, you need a #2 wire. Wires will create heat when you have current through them, and from the NEC, if you run 95 amps continuously through a #2 wire, it will get up to 60 degrees C, or 140 degrees F. As an engine compartment is already quite hot, that might not be enough if run continuously. So you should probably use a #2 wire with insulation good for high temperature. You would be much better running the wire direct from the alternator to the battery and not splicing a heavy wire like that into the AAW harness.
  8. Wait a minute, stop everything. We know the seller, he is on the forum! It is lilmike. I know he talked about selling his, and this is it. I would say ask him, he should be trust-able. That raises my confidence that he is not hiding anything. The price seems more reasonable now that we know the seller. Ask him if it is a real Mach 1 or if he has the Marti, maybe he is monitoring the forum?
  9. I am not sure, but a whole new motor seems like a lot of work to fix valve seals. I understand the whole motor could be tired, but the 302 is overall very reliable. I have one in mine, put new 351 heads on it 5 years ago at 180,000 miles. If you are happy with the performance and usefulness of a 302, I would fix the one you have and keep your car original. If you want more power, change to something else. Changing to a crate motor is probably about the same amount of work as reworking yours. There is always the option of just fixing the heads.
  10. This is interesting, what are the flaws you see? I noticed the emblem on the hood scoop not original, and that implies a lot of other stuff might not be Mach 1. Also has modifications like an aftermarket radiator and air conditioner compressor. Nothing wrong with that, but it needs to be considered. I also noticed the underside covered with some texture finish and painted black. It looks fine, but that could be covering some serious flaws. What did you see? Would you think if this was a real Mach 1, and the body was very good ( no repaired damage) or perfect, that the price could be reasonable.
  11. The one you pointed out looks great, but so much can be hidden. If it really is an original red Mach 1 and everything is perfect, it seems like the price is reasonable. Maybe a bit on the high end of what the car would get in other parts of the country, but maybe correct for where it is. Is it a true Mach 1? Does it have a Marty report? What is the body like? What are the factory options? What are the aftermarket features? I really would question the details when it is listed as a "Coupe" The seller is really missing knowledge or does not know what is going on. It obviously is a fastback pretending to be a Mach 1 or a Mach 1. In general, any old car will require work if you plan on driving it. The first step is to know what you are getting into. These cars are not like going to a dealer and buying it new. If you find one that has had most things upgraded or repaired ( it is never everything), and the body and details are like you want, then pay what you think it is worth. You can get an idea of what they are worth at several sites, including this one. If you are serious about a car and want opinions, you can ask this forum. If you want advice on this particular one, I would ask again with the subject line something like " Need advice on what you think the value of this car is"
  12. Disconnect the relay and put a voltmeter + on the red wire to the battery. Put the minus from the voltmeter on the amber wire. Push the trunk release button, and the voltmeter should jump up in voltage for a very short period of time. If you do not have a voltmeter, use a 12 volt light bulb between the +12 v and the violet. Press the trunk button and you should see the bulb flash on.
  13. That piece in my 69 vet is 102cm long, and has 5 holes. I do not think this has the correct profile to be the same.
  14. When you manually grounded the coil to the battery neg and had good spark, try grounding it to a good ground on the engine. This will tell you if the engine is grounded correctly. The problem could also be the points or condenser. I am not sure if this works, but connect the coil to a spark plug instead of the distributor. Then open and close the points and see if you get spark. This bypasses the distributor, but checks the points for proper connection. Randy, will this work to check the coil and points without using the distributor.
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