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danno

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danno last won the day on July 26

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About danno

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1954

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  • Location
    Minneapolis
  • Occupation
    Electronics Design Engineer

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  1. I looked at these sites, and I am guessing they are using your old car photos as clickbait. They do not really have 99% of the cars on the site, but it creates interest. You might give them a call and inquire about it. i will bet they tell you " that one is sold, but we have this other one..."
  2. I wonder if in a year+ of sitting, some spider or bug got into it? You might take it apart and see if it spins freely? A single drop of oil in the right place could fix it. But that means taking it all apart.
  3. The tach cars had a underhood and underdash wire harness unique for the use of the tach. If the connector to the alternator has 4 pins to connect it to the underhood harness, the odds are it is a harness made for a car with a tach. It it has 3 connectors, then it is definiately not a tach harness. For the underdash harness, there are clues that can be made if you have access to the connector that connects to the back side of the instrument panel. They colors of the wires and where they connect are different between a tach and non tach car. Someone else might be able to tell you what the part number is on them. I do not know. Maybe look at CJ pony parts for the part number and see what it cross references to?
  4. If you are still looking, I might have all the parts of a 69 tilt and tilt away steering column.
  5. You gave me the rare opportunity to answer a question first. Now time for my siesta.
  6. I am not sure which one pin 4 is, but the ground needs to be 2 black wires going to the same pin on the connector. Do you have a car with a factory tach or not? What year is the car? There should not be any wire from the seat belt warning light or parking brake light in a 69 with a standard dash.
  7. The other end either goes to the light in the door, or the 14 pin connector for the instrument panel. There is one pin on the instrument panel connector with 2 black wires, and one of the black wires is probably this one. To check it, open the door so the door light is on. Then unscrew the connection and remove the wire from making contact. If the door light goes out, that is it. If it does not, it goes to the instrument panel connector.
  8. I can't imagine answering a question like this before midlife. Maybe he is on a siesta? Anyway, the connector 2 pins is power. The Yellow with black is the +12 volts accessory power feed from the fusebox. The blue with red wire is the illumination light bulb. On the connector with 3 pins, the center pin (violet) is the common one for left and right speakers. The orange with violet is one speaker, and the white with violet is the other speaker. I am not sure which is left and which is right. You are correct, there is not a speaker in the dash with door speakers.
  9. Bending the steel rod that connects the fuel float to the potentiometer part is the simplest way to adjust the fuel reading, but draining the fuel to get at the rod is a very difficult process. I have done it on my factory fuel sender. If you adjust your CVR so the gas guage reads correct, then your temperature gauge will be wrong. I am not aware of any method to make adjustments to the needle or gauge that is in the instrument panel. If you took it apart, you might be able to bend the needle, but that is a very delicate process.
  10. Robert, you said you have the factory power disc brakes in you car, and they now seem to work great. I also have them, but I cannot lock up the front wheels in a panic stop. Can you?
  11. My car has the original booster and factory power brakes. I could stop by some day and let you drive it to see how terrible they were right out of the factory. I kind of remember where you live. For my car, the pedal feels firm. Stopping is good, but not great. I cannot lock up the front wheels in a panic stop. I think that is typical of the factory system. I am working on a change to different brake system this fall.
  12. Yes, you need to work on the fuel sender with an empty tank of gas. There is one brand of newer floats that can have an issue with leaking. If the float leaks, it will collect gas inside and not float very well. So after you remove the sensor, the first thing to check is to see if the float has fuel in it. Your problem is the sensor is reading too high, which cannot be a float with fuel in it. Your problem is it reads too high, so this needs to be fixed by bending the arm to the float. Adjusting the arm to the float is a trial and error process that can take a lot of time because you need to fill the tank to check it, and empty the tank to adjust it. Get the existing angle measured by tracing the arm with a piece of cardboard so you know how much you move it. This will give you a reference of a starting place. Then bend the arm and check with your reference to see how far you bent it.
  13. You might have plenty of other pains, but not that of us in the experienced age group. Just wait, kiddo, until you are 40! Have fun while you can Danno
  14. "The first to claim innocence are the first to be suspicious of the crime." Colombo
  15. I have mine set to about 18 degrees. As long as it does not ping when accelerating or run too hot, I understand 18 degrees is allowable.
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