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danno

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danno last won the day on September 10 2019

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About danno

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1954

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  • Location
    Minneapolis
  • Occupation
    Electronics Design Engineer

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  1. I am sorry, I did not see this reply. Do you still want it? I still have it. Send me an email to dj747@hotmail.com.
  2. I think you got that radio from me. Make sure to pass on my name to the new buyer in case it ever breaks. The work I did on it is guaranteed for as long as I am available to fix it. Danno
  3. The first two previous pictures are before, after ( on the wood table), and the last 2 photos are with it apart.
  4. OK, I did it on this one. We needed to get the heavy gauge wire in the center for a 69 connector. I actually think it works quite well. I after I pull them out, I re-insert them with new black silicon. They are in very securely, could be even better than before ( because of the new silicon). 1969_Mach, if you want it, you can have it. It will probably work fine for you. Danno
  5. You might try putting a jumper wire between the battery and the high side of the coil. Do this only when you know it does not work normally, and then do it for only a few seconds. Doing this will bypass the ignition switch, tachometer, resistor wire, and all dash wires. I have tried this and it proved my fault was in my coil. In my case, as soon as the coil warmed up, it would stop working. I tried my trick when the coil was cold and it showed that it worked. I connected the coil back up to the engine harness, and started the car. It ran for 8 minutes and died. I then connected 12 volts right to the coil, and this time it would not run. I replaced the coil, and it has been fine for years. So the next time your stops working, put a wire between your battery and the coil, and see if that works. You need to do it quickly, when the coil is still warm, to confirm that is the problem. This might not be it for you, I am just passing on what I found in mine. The coils stop working after they warm up.
  6. I am sorry, I did not mean you did it, but that you know it can be done. Maybe you did not know that it can be done? If you did not know about this, then it is a new trick. It can work well to achieve the results, but it might not be as perfect as the factory connection. I tell you what, I will try it on this one in the picture. I will re-arrange the wires to be correct. I also want to see how well it works.
  7. this is what I have. from what i think, the large wire is in the wrong location. One of the tricks that can be done is to pull the bullet connector out of the rubber support. The wire comes with it, they will pull out sometimes easily, sometimes not. Then rearrange the wires ( or even solder new wires to the bullet connector) and glue it back in using black silicon glue. I am guessing Randy has used this trick. It could be done to put the large wire in the middle.
  8. I have one, but the colors are not quite correct. If you don't care about the exact colors of the wires, it would work. Which end to you need, the one that goes to the alternator or the one that goes to the harness?
  9. I would think fiberglass would work. Test it first. On the inside, sand off all finish, and apply your fiberglass in a test strip. Let it cure and see how well it holds. Maybe drill tiny holes in the metal, something for the fiberglass to grab on to. Maybe put tiny screws in the holes, more for the fiberglass to bond to.
  10. Generally this is a sad point of life, but as we age we get shorter. This could work in your benefit. Maybe in another 20 years you will fit fine in the car?
  11. There were 2 on some models. All had the idler at the top left of the compressor, some had one between the compressor and crank. That long span between the compressor and crank can vibrate and make noise. If you need the one at the top, I have one. How does $5 plus shipping sound? I can get you a photo.
  12. I have a 1970 Bendix power brake booster I want to get rid of. I have no idea if it works. I bought it 20 years ago when I did not realize it will not work in a 1969. It would be great to send in for exchange on getting a new one. If you want to buy a rebuilt one, they will typically charge $200 extra if you buy a rebuilt one and do not have one for exchange. Buy this from me and sent in for exchange and save some. I know the rebuilders (like West Coast Classic Cougar) will buy it from me for $25 to $50. I will be putting this on fleabay for a higher price if it does not sell here. $40 plus shipping. email me at dj747@hotmail.com. Thanks, Danno
  13. Instead of cutting the car, maybe there is a way to cut off the track on the bottom of the seat that moves it back and forward?
  14. That is almost a shame you had to scrap it, but I understand. I already have an extra top frame for mine, I have had it for 30+ years, just in case I would need a new one. As long as I do not move, it will stay tucked up in the roof of my garage for another 30 years.
  15. Yes, let us know what you did. Newstang, that looks very cool. I can see advantages to doing it this way. I do not have a welder, so my way also worked.
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