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danno last won the day on May 3

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About danno

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/30/1954


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    Electronics Design Engineer

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  1. Just to be clear, what you thought was an oil pressure light is not that at all. The standard instruments do not have an oil light. It has 2 lights by the fuel gauge, one for brakes and one for seat belt. The seat belt light lights for about 1 second after the car is started. So that is what you were looking at.
  2. One way to be sure is to add an oil pressure gauge. You can add it temporarily until you find out if we are correct. But it is also my understanding the oil pressure always starts low, so the light will be on. As the engine runs, a few seconds later, the oil pressure increases to where it should be, and the light goes off.
  3. I had this problem with my car that I chased for 5 years. I replaced a lot of parts, and nothing made a huge difference. I suppose that in 1969 that was as good as it got. People lived with poor steering because they did not know better. But now I drive other cars with better steering, and I wanted that in my 69. So I gave up and put in power rack and pinion. One of the best things I ever did for my daily driver. I used Randall's Rack because that was all that was available 15+ years ago. Now I understand there are other systems that are better. The big and only problem with Randalls Rack is the turning radius is large. Other systems are better. That is a real nice Mach 1, KMD. I was considering buying one to go with my convertible. someday....
  4. Another minor complication with either the magnet or washer button idea is when someone else drives your car. Suppose you take it in for a wheel alignment, the shop will need to be able to start the car and drive it. So you need an override to temporarily disconnect the inhibit kill system to the car can be started and ran as usual. I have a toggle switch in my trunk that allows the car to operate normally. More details to the schematic.
  5. See details of this in the "Ultimate Kill Switch" discussion.
  6. Yes, you understood exactly what I meant! I know the diode was needed. I figured B would go to the ignition ON, not start on. But I can see you know what I am thinking. I can see the complications you are mentioning, I just wanted to get the idea out there. I am not sure about the box with the dotted line at the lower left. It is not needed. Accy will work fine, as long as you are only doing the initial engagement of the relay. When the key is turned to start, the ACCY power goes off, but by then the relay is engaged and held on my the NO contacts. I know about solidworks, I have not used the others you mentioned. I have used Visio for schematics, otherwise Cadence if it gets tied to a circuit card. Too much of the time a pencil, paper, and a pdf scanner work perfectly well. Thank you for adding the schematic. Thanks. I wonder if anyone else is following these details, or if anyone else cares?
  7. I just posted an idea in the forum to take this a bit further. Use the windshield washer button to engage the relay instead of the magnet. Mach1 Driver, if you know what I mean, can you post a revision to your schematic? What did you use to draw your schematic? Maybe I can make the changes? It saves needing the magnet and reed switch. It just requires you to know that you need to push the washer button every time you try to start the car.
  8. This is a great idea, and I have a bit more to add to it. Take this idea a bit more. But instead of the magnet, use the windshield washer output. Every time you get in the car, you turn the key to the run position, tap the washer button right next to it for a half second, and then start the car. Tapping the washer button for a half second will engage the relay and allow the car to be started and run. Every time you go to start the car, you need to tap the washer button before cranking the starter. Without tapping the washer button, the car will crank but never start. A half second push of the washer will probably not be enough to actually get any fluid on you windshield. I think it is a brilliant idea. No secret or hidden switch. No secret code. No difficult installation. No magnets. And you do not need to remove the steering wheel or gas tank!
  9. I understand. You will never get the sound in the 69 as good as you might be used to with your premium systems, but maybe good enough is acceptable for the classic. I am the same way as you in my home and other car, but I accept a bit of a compromise in my 69 convertible. Danno
  10. I have added a separate input on mine for a MP3 player. I have done it for others on the forum, just in case you are interested. It has a headphone style cord from the radio that you plug into an MP3 player, and a separate switch mounted somewhere. You click the switch, and the radio changes to a MP3 amplifier. You adjust the volume, balance, etc, with the radio. I can tell you more if you are interested.
  11. There is a difference in what the cars are used for. Mine is sort of a daily driver. To the store, to work, etc. Your option would not work for us when you would have to take it off and put it back on 4 or 5 times a day. We need something simple yet effective. This thread has provided great suggestions.
  12. Those wires are a mess, they do not look good. You need solid connections and wires that are not corroded. No splices or wires held together with tape. Send it to Midlife and get it like new.
  13. good luck on this. I would try to get the existing parts repaired, but that is probably not possible. They can be repaired if they are aluminum, but not if they are pot metal steel. So find out what kind of metal they are. If they are aluminum, you need to find a good heliarc welder, they repair propellers for boats all the time. I also wonder if the hold down clamps are the same with a manual or power top. I do not know why that would make a difference. You need to find out what the differences are. I have a 69 vert with a power top, if it helps I can do some measuring. Look on fleabay for options.
  14. I can understand the problem. Wheels are not made to be centered on the hub, but on the lug nuts. You need a template of some sort, to know if there is a difference. There might be an adapter available to bolt to the lug nuts and the adapter has an exact center based on equal distance to each lug nut. Maybe use a caliper and measure the exact distance between the hub center ( when on the alignment tool) and each lug nut? This is an interesting problem, good luck!
  15. The compressor is maybe the only thing that would work in your coupe. If you have an AC car already, then it probably would work, but like Mike said, getting the fittings and hoses could be a problem. If you do not have a factory AC car, then go with a new kit ( maybe without the compressor??)
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