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dbmac last won the day on July 18

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About dbmac

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  • Birthday 01/01/1961


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    Mountain View CA

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  1. Nice! What company did you go with and how was the work to fit it up to the steering column?
  2. I did the same, I always thought the 69 looked like they forgot that back piece!
  3. I rolled a fender! Shocked that it actually worked. Kept it warm at about 100-120 and it actually came around to almost a closed hem. On to the other side, and then I'm dropping the front. ;-)
  4. You might try dropping the belt and spinning the alternator by hand. It should be completely smooth, no gritty/grindy feeling. And freewheel a bit when you spin it. If its rough, then it's the bearing. If that's good then it may be the belt. A single v should be fine; I have a 100a Tuff Stuff on a single vbelt with no problems. See pic here: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/81155-i-need-to-finish-serpentine-belt-help/&tab=comments#comment-250121 . Starting cheapest first, I'd try: 1. Tighten belt. 2. Belt dressing / grip spray. 3. New belt. 4. New alternator. New belt and pulley system will be way more than an alternator. If you do upgrade the belts, CVF Racing makes a serpentine style system with an 8 groove belt but no idler pulley. Or you could go up to a Gilmer style with toothed belt. I bout one but decided not to use it. Plus they whine. For sale cheap if anyone's interested.
  5. Rwcstang, sounds like you are in Redwood City. Any Cars n coffee between you and me?
  6. Hi Mark, I'm looking at the t5 also because my t-10 is about shot. Got a full quote from Modern Driveline, about $3100 by reusing my belhousing and clutch. It wont help with freeway rpm but if you just want a softer pedal, a newer clutch will definitely help. I put in a McLeod Super Street Pro with the stock zbar and is very gentle, smooth engagement. Let me know if you do unload the Toploader and RPM doesn't want it. BTW I am in Mountain View so not far from you, there is a meetup every Thurs at Mojo Burgers on Foxworthy in SJ that might be interesting. Any thoughts from the rest of the crew on dealing with a dying t10? It needs double clutching to get into third and fourth now, been steadily getting worse. Some options: Rebuild the T10 - might be fun, and an excuse to buy more tools Have somebody rebuild it - any recommendations? Buy a Rebuilt T10 - about $12-1500 on fleabay. Anybody ever work with Garage Motorsports out of WA? Buy a rebuilt Toploader - about $2400 from someone reputable like David Kee Convert to the T5 - about $3100. I like J's comment: "shifts like butter" ;-) BTW, Modern confirmed there is NO tunnel mods needed if you use their tail housing and shifter. Other options? Thanks, Dave
  7. Not sure what engine you have but for a windsor, I picked up a different thermostat housing with a bung in it. Try this from Summit RNB-902-1001 - Dorman Thermostat Housings or Oreilly Murray Climate Control Water Outlet. $11.
  8. Flannel sheets? You could probably get some with horsies - I mean MUSTANGS - on 'em!
  9. I have a 100 amp Tuff Stuff alternator with the CVF pulleys and it's been fine. Squealed a bit until I tightened it up. So it's more about if you want to look old skool or new skool. CVF makes good stuff. Just pick the look you like.
  10. This isn't that technical, but is anybody using the collector car insurance guys like Hagerty or Grundy? I dont think my State Farm guys will do me right if things go bad. Paying 320/yr with SF for liability only, Hagerty quoted 600/yr for full coverage at $50K stated value, and Grundy was even lower at $380. Seems like a much better way to go. Anybody actually had a claim with either? How did they do?
  11. Perfect! Thanks guys. I could feel the larger hole for the pivot but wasn't exactly sure which direction the triangle pointed.
  12. Hi, can anyone please shoot me a pic of the visor mounting location for the chrome triangle end? I did not learn the "leave the screws in" trick before I installed the headliner. Damn. Pretty sure I found them but want to be sure before I make holes. Have found pics of 67s but that location doesn't feel like anything in my 69. Thanks...
  13. You are a bunch of clever bastards! I used to pull the rotor, but this on is a Summit with a screw on cap. Doable but a pain. But I guess it's worth it. I like the hidden kill switch, but by hotwiring the coil it bypasses most of them. Maybe the have the cutoff disconnect one of the distributor leads? The hotwire lights the coil but the distributor is not lit... my wires are all wrapped in power braid, not easy to figure them all out in a hurry. Not a big fan of the hood locks, I used to see them with the clip pin replaced by padlocks. Too lowrider for me. Anybody ever done a remote hood release? Not that you couldn't just crawl under and reach up to pop it. Smith and Wesson: not a good enough shot for that. Probably lose a toe... Fuel pump cutoff is good, they might still get the car but at least make the getaway a bit harder. Same on the GPS and shutoff. So that leaves... TRUNK MONKEY! Bummed that it's no longer available!
  14. Nice! I was thinking about the neutral safety switch, I have a manual with a new Painless harness that still has it. But that's too easy to bypass under the hood. I like your idea - not expected and harder to find. Thanks! Others?
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