Jump to content

Rich Ackermann

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Rich Ackermann last won the day on October 27

Rich Ackermann had the most liked content!

About Rich Ackermann

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. All my original diffuser are the same size. You can get different colored diffusers and use them with a clear LED bulb. Or check with HiPo Parts webside for the bulb size that works with or without the diffuser. https://www.hipoparts.com/. I know that you cant mix colored lens with different colored bulbs because the resulting color is not what you would expect. For example, the green directional arrow lens have to be removed to use a color other than green. Red LEDs are nice, but the red needles bend in with the led background color. Lacking contrast.
  2. I know its an old post, but for future reference... I bought the bulb for my climate control from Hi Po Parts... I think it is the one in the link below. Just give them a call and they can get the right one for any of the bulb type we use. https://www.hipoparts.com/non-polarized-ultra-bright-5-smd-15-led-bulb-ba9s-bayonet-base-super-wide-angle/
  3. Progress has been slow lately. But I have much of the electrical wiring done. I now have my exterior lighting mods installed and tested, including the led switchbacks in the front fender extensions and the sequential arrows in the power side view mirrors. I also used red led bulbs in the taillights. I used red instead of clear led bulbs to avoid the orange color effect in the lens, as a result of the brighter led bulbs. See the video link below. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuF11H1Kul6fwG98iUZuD52EK00T?e=X2qLZq
  4. Sorry for not replying sooner... I used two.. This one is adjustable... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0876VDWNN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Or this one is non-adjustable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0783MGVVW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title If you want a 3 wire plug for them... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O3H4DP4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  5. Randy, as you pointed out plug A does have a path to the battery side of the starter solenoid by way of a splice before plug A that has a black pigtail wire and a post hole connector which I suspect connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This would also then supply constant 12v back to the the thick black wire 38 to the black / yellow stripe wire and on to the ignition and flashers and headlight switch, etc... according to the wire diagram. I attached the wire diagram to my previous post.
  6. Thanks Kris. Its a factory tach car so I don't have an amp gauge. Only have an alternator light.
  7. Midlife, According to the wiring diagrams the green/red wire is 904 from the ignition switch to the alternator lamp pin on the circuit, board and then is 904A to plug "A" and then to the voltage regulator. My mistake the other wire it is 38 black from from the alternator to plug "A" where it is joined with 152 yellow to the regulator, and thru plug "A" as 38 black to the battery side of starter then as 38A it becomes 37 black/yellow stripe to a splice with 21 yellow to ignition, 25 black/orange to headlight switch, and 37A to a 20 amp fuse in the fuse box and on to 383 red/white for the emergency flashers I don't think i can leave these disconnected. Seems to me that 38 black should connect to the battery side of the starter only. Not certain what to do with 904-904A. But it seems to me that if I leave it disconnected my alt warning lamp will nolonger work.
  8. I don't know what a #34 is. I used a 3 wire adjustable flasher I bought on Amazon with a combination of standard bulbs and leds. I was able to connect the stock two terminal plug onto the 12v and load terminals of the flasher and then made a chasis ground wire for the third terminal ie ground. It worked fine.
  9. I have a 70 mach 1 351C with a factory tach. My understanding, which could be completely wrong, is when converting to a one wire Alternator, the stock Alternator/Regulator wire harness is eliminated and you run one wire from the alternator to the battery side of the Starter Sednoid or directly to the battery. If my understanding is correct, then how do I rewire the Black/Yellow Accessory and Red/green 12v constant wires (see picture below Circle "A". I believe both of these wires have constant 12v with the ignition switch is in the any position, including off. In other words, when converting to a one Alternator, where do I connect the two wires in circle "A", if the plug in circle "B" is gone? Do I just cut the plug ("A") off and add an inline fuse and connect them to the battery side of the Starter Sednoid? Thanks, Rich
  10. Very nice! Thank you so much for template. I suspect getting the bracket angle right is critical in mounting the panel. Would it be possible to get the measurement on either end of the bracket from the top mounting surface to the base. Thanks
  11. I checked their website. The brackets are not listed there. I'll try calling them. Thanks
  12. Hi 69stanger408, If you would share your templates, or the dimensions with me I would be eternally grateful. Even better I would be willing to pay you for a set. Please pm me if you would be so kind. Thanks, Rich
  13. Hi Vic, The car looks fantastic! Love the attention to detail. Glad to see you are getting back at it. Looking forward to following your progress. I was not aware that window felts were used. Where exactly are they placed? Thanks, Rich
  14. I saw the same video from WCCC. If you put a good original next to a repro, the repro is a hair thinner. I ended up using as many of the originals as I could by moving them around to minimized contact with their wear spots. I used the repros only where I had an original on the opposing side to minimize creating any looseness and put the unused repro guides on the shelf.
  • Create New...