Jump to content

Rich Ackermann

Members
  • Content Count

    214
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Rich Ackermann last won the day on October 27 2020

Rich Ackermann had the most liked content!

About Rich Ackermann

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Delaware

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Vic, The wood was only used with heat to mold the ABS plastic into the shape of the block-out plates and the tinted lens. I used heat to bend the ABS edges over the wood edges at a 90 degree angle. I cut the ABS at the corners to help create a "flap" that I could fold over. Making it easier to get the shape needed. Sorry I don't have more pics of the steps I took. Lost them a year ago when my phone memory became corrupt. Anyway, yes I used two screws thru the ABS plastic housing and thru the tinted plastic into the original block-out mounting holes in the Fender Cap. The spacers were there allow me to tighten the screws without crushing the ABS plastic housing. I drilled a small drain hole in the lowest point and also a hole for the LED wires to exit the assembly. I mounted with adhesive tape the LED strips in side the housing to the ABS plastic making sure there was a little bit of space inside the housing between the tinted lens and the LED strip. Once I was happy with how it all fit together and mounted to the fender cap, I used hot glue to seal and hold it all together. Below is a graphical drawing of the side view or profile of the housing with all the parts identified. I hope it helps make things clearer. If not, don't hesitate to ask ....
  2. Hi Vic, I like what you did a lot! They look fantastic! But I agree they are very bright. I have some pictures of what did that I posted below, unfortunately its not much, so I will describe it as best I can... I made wood mold the same shape and size as the plastic block outs used on our 1970 Mustang. I then cut some thin ABS the same shape the plastic block outs but a 1/2 or 3/4 inch larger all around. I then heated and flexed the ABS around the wood mold. Nothing fancy as it would not be seen. Then using a flat piece of plastic tinted license plate cover (the kind you can buy at any auto parts store), I cut out the lens again the same shape as the plastic block outs, but a little oversize to ensure I had some overlap to marry the ABS enclosure together with the tinted lens. I then drilled the mounting holes thru both parts. This was a bit difficult to get the holes in the right spot and angled correctly the way they are on the original plastic block outs. I then temporarily stuck the LED Amber White switchback Turn Signal Indicator strips to the enclosure and drilled a hole for the three wires to come thru the bottom of the enclosure. With a little trial and error I was able to adjust them until they were position perfectly in each of the horizontal slots. My preference was to have the LEDs hidden when not on so the ports still looked blacked out as they originally did. Furthermore, I wanted to prevent the LEDs from glaring brightly, so I was prepared to add another layer of the tinted license plate plastic to darken the lens further if needed, but in the end I did not need to. Finally, the LED strips are weather/waterproof, but I felt the enclosure sealed properly with a small drain hole in the lower bottom end would help keep them clean and dry. I originally used a heavy duty LED two prong Flasher relay in the factory plug and it worked just fine, but later I decide to try a three prong Adjustable flasher relay to help keep all the incandescent bulbs I still had along with the turn signal arrows in my side vie mirrors and these LED switchback strips all in better harmony. The three prong still fit in the two prong factory socket with the third wire being ground, so I just wired it to the dash. I made mine about two years ago now. The LED Amber White switchback Turn Signal Indicator strips I used were 12v compatible without a transformer which made it easier to thread the wires. Today, I see that there are improved 12v LED switchback strips that are one continuous rope light and cat be cut to length as needed. I may have to try these next go-round. Here is what I used... The last picture is one of the new rope like LED switchback turn signal indicators I found on ebay. I think these would work even better than the ones I used. BTW: I bought the LEDS on eBay and the two prong heavy duty flasher relay from NAPA, and the three prong adjustable on Amazon.
  3. I did my 73 vert roof 4 years ago. Fortunately it was straight and all the hardware was there and usable. I replaced the rubber weather striping with repro stuff. I have had three 73 verts over the years and know them real well, but never had a 69-70 vert.
  4. All my original diffuser are the same size. You can get different colored diffusers and use them with a clear LED bulb. Or check with HiPo Parts webside for the bulb size that works with or without the diffuser. https://www.hipoparts.com/. I know that you cant mix colored lens with different colored bulbs because the resulting color is not what you would expect. For example, the green directional arrow lens have to be removed to use a color other than green. Red LEDs are nice, but the red needles bend in with the led background color. Lacking contrast.
  5. I know its an old post, but for future reference... I bought the bulb for my climate control from Hi Po Parts... I think it is the one in the link below. Just give them a call and they can get the right one for any of the bulb type we use. https://www.hipoparts.com/non-polarized-ultra-bright-5-smd-15-led-bulb-ba9s-bayonet-base-super-wide-angle/
  6. Progress has been slow lately. But I have much of the electrical wiring done. I now have my exterior lighting mods installed and tested, including the led switchbacks in the front fender extensions and the sequential arrows in the power side view mirrors. I also used red led bulbs in the taillights. I used red instead of clear led bulbs to avoid the orange color effect in the lens, as a result of the brighter led bulbs. See the video link below. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AuF11H1Kul6fwG98iUZuD52EK00T?e=X2qLZq
  7. Sorry for not replying sooner... I used two.. This one is adjustable... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0876VDWNN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Or this one is non-adjustable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0783MGVVW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title If you want a 3 wire plug for them... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O3H4DP4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  8. Randy, as you pointed out plug A does have a path to the battery side of the starter solenoid by way of a splice before plug A that has a black pigtail wire and a post hole connector which I suspect connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid. This would also then supply constant 12v back to the the thick black wire 38 to the black / yellow stripe wire and on to the ignition and flashers and headlight switch, etc... according to the wire diagram. I attached the wire diagram to my previous post.
  9. Thanks Kris. Its a factory tach car so I don't have an amp gauge. Only have an alternator light.
  10. Midlife, According to the wiring diagrams the green/red wire is 904 from the ignition switch to the alternator lamp pin on the circuit, board and then is 904A to plug "A" and then to the voltage regulator. My mistake the other wire it is 38 black from from the alternator to plug "A" where it is joined with 152 yellow to the regulator, and thru plug "A" as 38 black to the battery side of starter then as 38A it becomes 37 black/yellow stripe to a splice with 21 yellow to ignition, 25 black/orange to headlight switch, and 37A to a 20 amp fuse in the fuse box and on to 383 red/white for the emergency flashers I don't think i can leave these disconnected. Seems to me that 38 black should connect to the battery side of the starter only. Not certain what to do with 904-904A. But it seems to me that if I leave it disconnected my alt warning lamp will nolonger work.
  11. I don't know what a #34 is. I used a 3 wire adjustable flasher I bought on Amazon with a combination of standard bulbs and leds. I was able to connect the stock two terminal plug onto the 12v and load terminals of the flasher and then made a chasis ground wire for the third terminal ie ground. It worked fine.
  12. I have a 70 mach 1 351C with a factory tach. My understanding, which could be completely wrong, is when converting to a one wire Alternator, the stock Alternator/Regulator wire harness is eliminated and you run one wire from the alternator to the battery side of the Starter Sednoid or directly to the battery. If my understanding is correct, then how do I rewire the Black/Yellow Accessory and Red/green 12v constant wires (see picture below Circle "A". I believe both of these wires have constant 12v with the ignition switch is in the any position, including off. In other words, when converting to a one Alternator, where do I connect the two wires in circle "A", if the plug in circle "B" is gone? Do I just cut the plug ("A") off and add an inline fuse and connect them to the battery side of the Starter Sednoid? Thanks, Rich
  13. Very nice! Thank you so much for template. I suspect getting the bracket angle right is critical in mounting the panel. Would it be possible to get the measurement on either end of the bracket from the top mounting surface to the base. Thanks
  14. I checked their website. The brackets are not listed there. I'll try calling them. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...