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Rich Ackermann

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Rich Ackermann last won the day on April 16

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About Rich Ackermann

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  1. This may help... Here is the wiring on my 70 mach. I have a repro map light, but the rest is factory. The repro map light male/female plug did not match up with the male/male plug on the original wire harness. So I made a pigtale adapter to connect them.
  2. Thanks! I have a long way to go. Needs rear quarters and trunk drop downs and maybe a tail panel. Then I start panel fitting, primer, block and sanding.
  3. Moving on with replacing the footboard or lower part of the firewall, top of the driver side torque box, and floor pan. I am relieved that the rockers are great shape. Decided not to replace the floors under the rear seat as they are also in great shape, so I just cut the full floor off at the top of the riser. Also using a one-piece seat support and Tinman sub- frame connectors to add some rigidity.
  4. I have not installed it yet, but I am planning to use this kit in my 70 Mach 1. The kit uses commonly available modern GM window motors. They also sell a quarter window kit.
  5. My lower cowl was not salvageable. I also need to replace the footwell or lower part of the firewall over torque boxes, passenger side torque box and the inner passenger kickboard/vent area below the A-Pillar. With all that needed to be done, it just made sense to replace the cowl instead of repairing it. I was able to salvage the original outer cowl with its date stamp. I should give credit to my buddy John who has done this work before, and without his help and experience, I would not have tackled it by myself. Next, we will install the upper cowl and replace lower firewall and floors. Stay tuned....
  6. Thanks, but the picture is not my interior yet. I have a ways to go, but when done that what it will look like.
  7. Converted my non-A/C dash to use the stock left and right lower dash A/C vents. Someone had punched a 3/4" hole in my original dash in the area where the A/C vents go, so it was either trash it or turn it into an A/C dash. Made left and right templates of the holes from an original A/C dash and then cut the holes on my non-A/C dash. Fortunately, that allowed me to salvage my original dash and use it with a pair of stock A/C vents I bought. I'll go with a Classic air aftermarket system for the rest. Does anybody need a real nice original bare-bones 69-70 Mustang A/C dash? I have one for sale.
  8. 0n 70s the driver side plug the third/red wire is for the key reminder buzzer. The buzzer sounds when key is in the ignition lock and the drivers door is open and. The passenger side has two wires. Blue w/black strip and green for 12v power to interior lights. These two wires are also wire 1 & 2 in driver's side plug.
  9. Glad you found it. Sometimes it's hard to chase down those electrical gremlins.
  10. As Midlife states, when you ground either socket pins you are essentially completing the circut directly at that bulb which circumvents the way the system would seek ground normally. It will always test good that way. Remember the brown parking wire is positive and seeks ground thru the white/blue and white/green passing thru other bulbs to get there. That ground connection can come from the ground wire for the hood signal lights if you have them or the dash ground, etc. The directional switch in the column plays games with the + and - when LH or RH the blinker is on. It's a mess, if you ask me.
  11. Did a stock 1970 351C (m-code) engine have a carb spacer or some kind of egr plate, or was the carb mounted directly on the intake manifold? Thanks
  12. The 70 side marker wiring is a rube golderberg. Ford engineers were trying to be clevor by making the side markers blink alternately with the front and rear markers. I don't care if the side markers flash alternately with the front and rear markers. So, I just converted my 70 parking light wiring over to work as it does in a 69 and 71-73 years. I used 69 front markers with three wire plugs (the plug includes the ground wire whereas the 70 marker does not). I changed the 70 front marker harness from a two plug connector to a three plug and wired the third plug wire (ground) from the 69 front marker to chassis ground by way of the new three plug connector on the 70 harness . I then rewired the LH green/white and RH blue/white front and rear side marker wires to go to chassis ground. I left the brown (parking light) wire alone as it is. That's all. Now the side markers work only as parking lights and no longer flash alternately with the front and rear markers (same as it does on the 69, 71-73 cars), and chasing down ground and bulb issues is much more straight forward and easier.
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