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Rich Ackermann

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Rich Ackermann last won the day on July 23

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About Rich Ackermann

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  1. That number is for a Torino or Mercury Montego. I think the housing is the same but the pedestal is different from a Mustang. Are you still looking to buy a 2100 carb. I have one. Maybe we can work a trade.
  2. Thanks all for taking a moment to share your experience and expertise. You have all given me lots to think about as I prepare to take on this new challenge... quarter panel replacement. I will let you know how it goes.
  3. Looking for good 69 to 73 sport mirror housings and/or pedestals. Don't care about the rest of the assembly... Broken or missing glass and cables are ok.
  4. Still looking for Cleveland 2v heads? I have a set.
  5. Got it. I am planning on TIG welding it and moving around the seam to keep the heat down. Do you recommend flanging it with an overlap instead of overlaying the new panel on the old and cutting thru both the new and old and then butt welding the seam? Thank so much!
  6. To anyone who has replaced their Fastback quarter panels. I am getting ready to replace my 70 fastback original quarters with Dynacorn Skins. The skins replace the old panel from the front door jamb lip to the rear quarter extension lip, and from the rocker, wheel well lip, and drop down on the bottom of the quarter to about two inches over the top of the quarter shoulder. See the picture attached. My quarters are mostly good and only need to be replaced from about halfway down the quarter, this would include the section at the door jamb/rocker in front of the wheel well, the wheel well lip and the lower quarter behind the wheel well where it meets the dropdown and the tail panel and valence. So my question, is it best to use the entire replacement skin, which means cutting the old quarter panel over the shoulder (just below the quarter window and thru the top of the trunk deck area), or is it better to cut the old panel a few inches down the side of the panel below the top of the quarter, and trim the new skin down to meet it? Seem to me, that it would be easier to patch them together on the side of the panel where you have a more "wide-open" surface area to work it. I would appreciate feedback, from anyone who has done this before. Thanks
  7. There are kits like this which require more radical mods: https://www.heidts.com/part/ifs-for-64-70-mustang-and-67-70-cougar-and-60-65-falcon-and-64-65-comet/ or Coilover upgrade kits that basically bolt in where your old suspension did: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html
  8. I really like your choice of motors. The SN95 Mustang motor is the same as the T-bird motor for the same years (1989-97) I tried using a while back, but I chose not to use it because the vertical diameter of the mounting disc was a very tight fit and I did not think it would not clear the housing. Looks like you trimmed the bottom and top of the mount (circle with the mounting clips on the back of the plastic mirror base) and removed the clips off the mirror base. Question: Even without those clips on the top and bottom the base will stay clipped firmly on to the motor (disc)? I may have to give it another try.
  9. Yes I used the two wire with the built-in sequencer. Yes I hooked it up to an electronic flasher module when I first got them and it still worked. I will video it. Another option is to add a small capacitor in line with the mirror sequential lights, but I have not experienced a need for it. Here is the video. The flasher helps to keep the sequential arrows in sync with the other flashing bulbs. 20190803_015147.mp4
  10. Center console is an option. 69 have the cigarette lighter hole in the front of the compartment. On a 70 console you drill a hole thru the woodgrain top. Under the woodgrain in that spot is a space where 69 years had the seatbelt buckle holder. Just a few ideas.
  11. If all the previous suggestions fail, and you still need a bit more length to get it all connected, you could consider using a longer cable connector. A cougar has the same cabling but uses a longer connector.
  12. Well I still am working on refining the mod before I shared it all. I have not completed the drivers' side yet and I am looking at using different motors. Here are pictures of what I have done so far....
  13. The glass is a "standard" reproduction you can get from CJ or any other distributor. They are semi transparent and dont have the mounting back plate so the LEDs will show thru the glass from the back.
  14. A relay is the way to go. The headlight switches are prone to overload issues, especially as they age. Another possibility is to get a 70 headlight switch (A 70 switch looks the same and has exactly the same plug configuration but must be internally different based on part #) and connect the P wire to R.
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