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Rich Ackermann

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Rich Ackermann last won the day on May 22

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About Rich Ackermann

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  1. Fantastic job! I wish I could fabricate like you. I can barely mold something from ABS plastic.
  2. Yep. That was how my kit was. Sorry I guess I was not clear enough in my earlier post. I did relocate the compressor relay they wired for under the dash to the engine compartment. I wanted it next to my other headlight relays. Make sure you can access the calibration wire under the dash. Its short and you need to be able to ground it to calibrate the controls.
  3. You should use the same Amp fuse size as the one in the harness provided. Mine came with a 30A inline breaker. The original yellow wire is 12 or 14 guage so it can handle the load. I did not use the original wires and 14A/30A fuse slot. I had re-purposed the fuse slot and the original yellow heater power wire for my aftermarket power windows which required 30A. I ran the AC wires provided thru the hole provided in the block out plate to the battery. They were plenty long enough and have no terminators, so no issue passing them thru. I did relocate the compressor relay they wired for under the dash to the engine compartment next to my other headlight relays. Make sure you can access the calibration wire under the dash. Its short and you need to be able to ground it to calibrate the controls.
  4. I think you made the right decision. Concourse trailered/street driven levels are over rated. Its just more trouble than its worth and you will not drive the car as much for fear of cleaning it endlessly or something doing damage to all your work. Restore just the things that you want to and you will enjoy your car more. Good Luck!
  5. Thanks Midlife. I don't understand when you say "to the green fuse box backing, where it is tied in with Pin 7"? I went back and retraced the resistor wire in my harness. I think whoever made my harness deviated a little from the schematic and ran the resistor wire from the black/green striped wire at the ignition switch plug to pin 7 where it joined with the green/red striped wire also at pin 7. I have no Resistor wire anywhere in the fuse box. I guess whoever that was also knew it was electrically the same. You can see in the pics below the two wires in PIN 7 (my red and green wire colors are washed out in the pic) and also at the ignition plug. I'll note the deviation in the diagram and re-post it. Thanks again!
  6. I have looked everywhere for a good (accurate) diagram of the Dash Gauge Cluster PC circuit board plug PIN out for a 70 Mach with Factory Tach with no luck. At least something that resembled what I have on my 70 Mach with Factory Tach. Soooo.... I decided to study the Ford electrical diagrams and compare it what I see on my car. The Ford diagrams are bit off with respect tot he various resistor wires for such things as the CVR, Alt warning light, and the tach (which BTW has nothing to do with the PC circuit board plug). I believe I have it right and though I'd share it for anyone else that might find it helpful. I am sure Midlife or someone else will want to correct me and I welcome any corrections or comments. BTW: The pictures of the plugs at the bottom are of my 70 Mach 1 with Tach. I did plagiarize someone else very nice diagram of the plug...I would credit them, but I don't know who to give credit to.
  7. Question....If you have Fuel Injection, could you disconnect the power to the fuel pump instead of putting the switch between the Dist and Coil, or maybe in addition to it? Also I have read that if you have replaced your points with a Petronix Ignitor, leaving the key in the "ON" position without having the engine running for extended periods can cause the coil to overheat, and 'cook' the Ignitor. Always ensure that the engine is running when the key is switched to "ON", otherwise use the "Accessories" position for use of other electrical components (e.g. Radio, CB, 12V source etc). A "key left on" situation is not covered by the warranty.
  8. Welcome! You have a very nice looking, unmolested vert. Color is a personal choice and your red vert looks great, and if you like it, that is all that matters. I once painted a very original 1973 red convertible Mustang Gold Glow Metallic, and some folks scratched their heads wondering why I would do that. Anyway, Mustang Club of America publishes their Concourse Judging rules for Trailered, Street Driven classes, and so on. It will give you an idea what they consider a concourse car and what the finish on various parts/areas on the car should be. If you apply MCA Judging rules as the standard (which is debatable) for a concourse restoration, then I recommend reading before attempting a "Concourse" restoration. See attached... MCAMustangRules69-70-2019.pdf
  9. I am converting my 70 Mach 1 fixed rear seat to a fold down. I have all the fiberglass panels, the trap door, the panel above the trap door, and have the aftermarket fold down rear seat kit. I have watched all the videos and read all the online info I can find. What I cant quite understand is how the panel above the trap door and the bottom of the rear window attaches to the car. Best I can tell I am missing the brackets and clips (see pic). Anyone haves a picture of where the brackets and clips go? Where can I go to buy them or can anyone provide the bracket measurements so I can make them? Thanks much!
  10. Has anybody with a vintage Air A/C conversion kit tried installing the optional lower vent center dash bezels instead of installing them in the stock location above the radio? I want to use the stock A/C vent location above the radio bezel for a pair of gauges (Volt & Oil) as I have a stock tach in the dash cluster., so I am thinking of locating the vents below the dash on either side of the heater controls and center console. Looking for any feedback/pointers on placement and air duct routing from someone who has tried this with their Vintage Air kit. Here is a picture I spliced together of the upper dash with the gauges installed in in the stock vent location and lower dash with the Vintage Air optional vents placed below the dash on either side of the console. I am not very good at computer graphics, but the picture shows what I am thinking of.
  11. I picked this up a few years ago. Not sure how different a '73 Mustang switch is from a '71-72 switch. My understanding is Sorensen was an OEM manufacturer for these switches. Should be better quality than the repros.
  12. Had the rear glass and quarter windows tinted 30%. Had them done off the car. Held off on getting the door glass done until after I get the car thru DMV inspection to avoid failing. Installed my Nu Relic power window regulators and door glass. Also installed the tinted quarter glass, rear glass and my motorized side-view mirrors. Also inserted my custom made set of Tri-Bar Pony center caps on my new US Mags Bandit wheels, they fit like they were made for them. Happy to get the manufacturers name off them. Next up installing the Vintage Air air-box and work on the dash wiring.
  13. Well, I really don't know. I have never had window tinting done before. I know its not the metallic kind. I am not getting the door glass done until after I take the car thru DMV inspection.
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