Rich Ackermann

Years ago a guy on another forum asked if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.

A quick internet search and up pops a few leads about people associated with Warren - Anderson Ford past. These folks may be will ing to help you.. Before 1933 the dealership called "Johnson Motor Company" when it was bought by Warren Anderson and renamed Warren-Anderson Ford. Now the "Ford Warren-Anderson" company DBA Fritts Ford" is privately held/owned by Marie J. Fritts. Corporate Address: 8000 Auto Dr Riverside, CA, 92504-4118. Write her a letter asking for copies of the companies history. Worst that can happen is she ignores you letter or respectfully declines. What have you got to loose? Maybe Jim Johnson, an auto dealer most of his life and whose father, Harold Johnson was affiliated with the old Warren-Anderson Ford dealership in Riverside, Try contacting him, he may be able to help. These sold on eBay some time ago. Keep us posted and good Luck! There is another one for sale, but it is pricey! https://www.ebay.com/itm/374323536073?hash=item57276be0c9:g:ojMAAOSwp8BjWf0q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAH4ARnhGNtXiaAiBUW74NJlKAiw4tHAD4JemMhNNrRJWhR3D9gMtygl64fS3Y4Z2XqKn9ZkddOmgZX9DKYlliG52mi9M0BkPqLujxx71Uluac%2FSxD4Q0TISqRnUacVtSksiOGkQ4xocOGN7vBwpfDbrJFkLwaVMsmxFjBYgF39xtQFgLEyZkre74Z4kf9V6nr1GvFC1r%2BLzToP5GwgwSBd%2B9yK%2FzdGkOqX2DNb5JiF%2BB9LPs4uj3eG%2BIK5ZtELhZbGExQJe6Enx%2BNy7kpchm9IPWoA9OTIppy3AqzmH18iiabCTh64mvOrSeekY1t%2FH1x67kqoPEiPo4e1PxdX%2FxOXk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9Tr17_hYQ

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory.

Here is the way I wired the NNS and Backup Lights Switch on my factory 1070 Mach 1. Manual 3 and 4 Speed cars had basically the same NSS/Backup Light harness out thru the firewall to the four pin plug. Automatics had the NNS safety switch harness to the trans, whereas manual shift cars had a loop back wire in the plug on the trans side. If you wan the NSS to function with your Tremec TKO, then you will need The Tremec NSS harness, and the Tremec to Ford Backup Light harness, (Scott Drake has a nice one). Also some 14 AWG wire ( blank ground wire) and a 4 or 5 terminal 12v 30 amp Relay and some blade connectors or matching relay plug (a mounting bracket optional). The relay is needed because the NSS will trip the relay on or off when it completes or disconnects the the ground circuit, which in turn will connect or disconnect voltage to the starter solenoid. I read that you should not pass 12v thru the Tremec NSS, if you do it will eventually stop working. Fish one or two ground wires thru the Tremec to Ford Backup Light harness (only need to fish one wire thru the harness if you ground the second wire in the harness to the undercarriage near the Tremac). I brought both ground wires to the the firewall. One near the four pin plug and the other I grounded to the firewall with the wiper ground wire. One NSS ground wire goes to relay terminal 30 and the other as mentioned before to the chassis ground. If the Backup Light harness four pin plug has the red/blue striped loopback wire cut the loop wire in half so yo have equal wire lengths. Identify which of the two Red/Blue striped wires that you just cut is coming from the ignition key/switch side and mark it as such and connect it to the 30 terminal on the relay. Make a 3 inch pigtail wire when crimping the relay terminal spade to the end of this Red/Blue striped wire and connect the pigtail to the relay's 86 terminal. Finally, connect the other Red/Blue striped wire you cut to terminal 87. Here is a diagram of what I just described... And a Video explanation... https://www.google.com/search?q=tremec+nss+operating+instructions&rlz=1C1RNOE_enUS743US744&sxsrf=AJOqlzWMKee-Og6jW4d4Lx6FuN1Jjrw-TA%3A1679098093900&ei=7QAVZNfMNrOpptQP7Ye_iA4&oq=tremec+nss+oper&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQARgAMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABOgoIABBHENYEELADOgUIIRCrAkoECEEYAFCED1jrMGDoSmgBcAF4AIABtgGIAcADkgEDMi4ymAEAoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:50bbc5eb,vid:lJ8B6Iim_F4

I am jumping in to the middle of this thread, so just ignore it if this is not helpful.... You can permanently or temporarily bypass the NSS by connecting the two Red- Blue Stripe wires together in the four pin plug coming from the firewall. It the same as the loop-back Ford used on manual cars. I bought the manual safety switch wire harness for my Tremec. It had the correct factory 4 pin plug on the one end and the tremec plug on the other.

I'm guessing you already know this, since you have replaced the rotors. The 70 to 73 Factory Calipers are a floating design. They are held loosely in place on two pins with a rubber boot over each pin to keep the caliper from rattling. Spraying brake cleaner, Gumout, or other solvents dissolve these rubber boots which makes the caliper looser to the point where it may rattle when not applying the brakes, and possibly come in contact with the rotor on the front side when applying the brakes. Try replacing the rubber boots if they are old, worn-out or damaged. You can get them at NAPA for a few bucks.

Kris, sorry for the delayed response. I have Motorcraft ACF 42CA Plugs and Moroso Ultra 40 Race Wire sleeved 8.65mm 40 ohms. Rich

Not sure what the hole is for, but looking at a picture of mine before I disassembled it, looks like the threads of a screw coming thru the hole. I had small round rubber insulators at the base of each gauge terminal post and a thin gray strip of cardboard over the posts and between the metal gauge cluster body and the circuitboard. Pics below..

Vic, Just a suggestion, with metalic two stage paints, have seen instances where painting fenders, headlight buckets, and trim parts when they are not sitting in their "natural" position as they would be on the car, causes the metal flake in the paint to be effected by gravity. In another words, painting a headlight bucket by it laying down on a table, instead of hanging it vertically, gravity causes the flakes to to lay flat as the paint dries. When put on the car the paint reflects differently. That what happened on my 73 Mustang's Medium Copper Metallic when the hood trim was painted. You can see it if you look closely at the pics below...

Here is a picture of the green wire with a black round female plug at the firewall. John is correct it is part of the harness that includes the wipers, tach wire, neutral safety switch, oil and temp sender wires, and PRNDL shifter light. The other end of the green wire should terminate near the airbox blower motor with a single square spade plug, along with a couple of other related green wires with square plugs.

Hi Vic, Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70. The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together. They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots. https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left).

Congratulations and good luck! Is the paint shop painting the panels on or off the car? I used a Mach 1 hood stripe temp from NPD. The shop laid down the black and then a mat clearcoat on, after painting the body color/clearcoat and sanding the clearcoat over the stripe area. The mat clear holds up real well to the elements and does not become shiny from wax. Others folks use Hotrod black. It has a nice rich black Mat finish that also holds up well. My rear trunk lid stripe is a tape stripe.

1969 Mach 1s had Quad tips and 1970 Mach 1s had oval tips.

You might want to pull a plug as see if there is any carbon build up. If there is, better off taking time to clean them all. If you have not done so, I would strongly recommend installing a relay connect it to pink wire and to the battery for 12v and use your red/green ignition wire to trip it. That wire was not meant to carry a lot of current and its not a clean power source to be used with the ECU. You will know if you have a power issue by looking at the voltage number fluctuation on the hand held. below 12v even for a moment is bad for the ECU electronics. Good Luck

I can't explain why it been working for years, but the green/red wire (904 on the Ford wiring diagram) is correct for constant voltage during the start and run ignition switch positions. Assuming you have your factory ignition/ Prove-out wiring is intact, The correct wire to connect the Pink ECU wire to is one that provides constant 12v during start and run ignition switch positions. The red/blue striped wire (32 & 32A) on the Ford wiring diagram) does not, it only has power in the start position. The green/red stripe wire (904 on the Ford wiring diagram, not to be confused with the #16 red/green striped (or sometime called the pink #16A resistance) wire depending on which of the two wire diagrams you look at) has power when the key is in the start/prove-out and run ignition switch positions, and that's the one to connect the pink wire to. Also I suggest tapping this wire as close to the ignition switch plug and run it to a relay and have the relay tripped by the red/green wire and supply the 12v to the pink wire to the ECU. This will take the additional 12v current draw to the ECU and ignition box (if you have an MSD or Hyperspark ignition box) off the factory green/red wire and ignition switch and insure that the pink wire is getting 12v directly from the battery. Here are a few wire diagrams showing the Start/Prove out for a factory tach and non-tach car.