lalojamesliz

i like this seat ...

It looks like you just have to go by the description- the Moog part doesn't say it has roller bearings, even though it costs more, and Opentracker does:
Crafted to outperform OE replacements, Moog's idler arms are solid one-piece designs with all new hardware and grease fittings for serviceability. This durable design, coupled with the ability to flush out contaminants and re-grease the idler arm ensures that you'll not only restore your vehicle's performance, you'll also make it last much longer. Plus, Moog covers all of their idler arms with a lifetime warranty handled in-house here at DST.
Improve the steering of your classic with an Opentracker roller idler arm. A roller idler arm reduces steering effort and allows greater feedback to the driver by keeping the steering geometry in check. Replacing the factory rubber bushing with  grease-able bearings maintains proper position of the center link as it moves from side to side. Manual steering cars will especially appreciate this upgrade as the reduced steering effort results in more precise steering input while cornering. Slow speed steering is also greatly improved making it ideal for street cars as well. Opentracker roller idler arms are made in the US.
 

I read on another forum that a guy shortened them but it could have reduced the stiffness the add. 
Maybe its something a cutoff wheel and my welder can fix. I'll find out.
 
Glad your still around! I bolted that crossmember and it fit perfect Bob. I even lifted my front end and it worked as I hoped it will. 
I'm a long ways away from installing that 408w but ill find out if it clears the pan I got for it.  

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

Nah lol
I enjoy reading ALMOST everything here ha ha ha

I have 1 PCV,  the other valve cover is plumbed to the air cleaner housing

Anybody think Eddie minds that we hijacked his thread?  :)

The B302 gusset would be my first choice for reinforcements. Use poster board for your template and get it fitting like you want it. You can easily cut out your own plates from 1/8" material with a grinder / cut off tool. Your 140a welder should be able to handle this with ease.

If you're wanting to do the big block style reinforcements it might be a little more difficult, but some 3/16" plate and some creative bending will result in quality parts. Fitting these pieces will take a large hammer to adjust various components, trim and tack weld in place. This thicker material may be a little much for your welder as you will have to run it wide open. Bevel all weld joints to help with the lack of penetration.

A little grinding, and it will look better than factory.

If you are wanting to go a little overboard, you can reinforce the UCA attachment area. More cardboard templates and 1/8" material will be needed to build your own. Fully welding all factory seams and using several small filler pieces to fill in the recessed areas then plating over all of it, fully welding all seams with added rosette welds in the middle, and re-drilling your holes, you'll have some pretty strong towers.

 

whats the area code so we can ALL call you?

Are you describing a hand job?  Hmmmm?

Similar https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=27613.0

I have a 100 amp Tuff Stuff alternator with the CVF pulleys and it's been fine.  Squealed a bit until I tightened it up. So it's more about if you want to look old skool or new skool. CVF makes good stuff. Just pick the look you like.

I'm really liking the cheaper simpler one.  Thank you for showing me this. I wonder if it will work with the contour fans....

I used ATI PN#: 917511AK.  it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak
 

Ford has one a dampener that can be neutrally balanced.
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6316-D302
They also recommended the this flex plate.  Not sure what you should use if you are going manual and need a flywheel.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pma-pax30213/overview/

I've been driving the car around for a few days and it's better, guess I'm getting around 10-12 now.  At least I'm not seeing the needle move when I put my foot down.

To me the kit is still a good deal. Just buy a few added bolts from them to make the kit exactly what you need.
also, this may be just me but I don't use the kit exactly as they specify anyway. Very few people will see my car from the looking up perspective and some of the bolts on the engine really can't be seen.
so I use the oil pan bolts for misc things in the engine compartment and I use the motor mount bolts for where the export brace bolts to the he firewall
 
bob

I used an ARP engine bolt kit to assembly my motor.  And yes, you usually do not get all the correct length timing cover bolts.  After I figured out what bolts I needed that were missing in the kit, ARP gave them to me.  Don't get the polished stainless steel bolts.  The finish on them is so smooth they keep coming loose.  I haven't had that issue with the black oxide finish bolts.  And the black oxide seems to last without any discoloring or fading.

The sets from ARP are great but very generic 
the majority of the bolts for the engine will work fine, some of the bolts are not none enough or too long depending on variations or the accessories you may have.
in some cases you can get individual bolts from ARP to modify the set into what you need, in some cases they may not have the exact bolt you need and will have to perhaps modify the bolt (shorten/lengthen) the bolt.
 
keep in mind that external accessory bolts are not as critical as actual engine parts, so you can get away with more
 
bob

Dude, get in your car and drive over to Ventura. You can load up at NPD, then drive around the corner to ARP for your fasteners. Then have a burrito for lunch at Johnny's. That's something I've done, more than once.

it seems there are a few flavors/differences in water pumps/timing covers, etc resulting in some fasteners not working out.  if a few fasteners don't work, then you can always measure and purchase something different (length, thread size, etc) from ARP.

I first started using ARP head studs in 1969 on hemis never used anything else on a engine since their quality is the best there is.
Muscle cars like Ford made many changes over the years even 2 or 3 in a production year ARP stands behind every product they make & they're Made in USA.

You can also use ARP's website which is easy to use just create a purchase list then either print it or use the links to buy from any of their online sellers.
 
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/Make.php?_Make=400&_EngModelID=*

This is why I had to get a distributor with a vacuum advance instead of a just mechanical type. I knew it would make a big difference 

Does the distributor have a vacuum advance and does the vacuum advance hold vacuum if it does have one?