jmlay

Stock will work fine except the lines that previously connected the master. This will require custom bent lines between the hydro boost unit and the distribution block.

Did you apply a sealant in the corners, between pan and gasket and gasket and block? Just a small bit.

I will take it. I will send you a PM.

That is a good catch. You better offer better BBQ than Rudy's! Lots of great places in & around Austin.: https://apps.statesman.com/austin360/eats/lists/43/best-barbecue-austin/

What I was referring to was a complete assembly, everything from the rear frame rails to the front frame rail supports. Dynacorn and at least one of the major companies make these assemblies for the 65/66 vert as well as coup and fastback of all years. I have not seen one for a 69/70 vert but I am sure someone has a complete assembly. There was a company that was assembling & selling the 65/66 before before Dynacorn and the others, they would build others upon request. Can not seem to find the company name at the moment. Just found it, Thoroughbred GT (http://www.thoroughbredgt.com/ 330-533-0048). They may now be out of business or the home page URL has changed. May be worth a phone call the phone number still works, 330-533-0048. If I were working on a car with that much rust if I could get a quality fully assembled pan I would jump on it in a heartbeat. It takes a lot of time and dedication to do the work right, what is your time worth TO YOU.: https://www.prlog.org/12053498-100-premium-quality-mustang-real-steel-floors.html https://www.facebook.com/ThoroughbredInt/

Have you considered one of the complete floor pans/trunk assemblies? May save quite a bit of time and aggregation. Remember time is money. Below is for a fastback or cupe but a little searching I’m sure a vert version may be found.: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Floor-Trunk-Seat-Pans/One-Piece-Floor-Pans/Dynacorn-1-Piece-Floor-Trunk-Pan-1969-1970-Mustang-Coupe-Fastback.axd

Bracket to hold the fold down trapdoor open.

If your 100% positive the headers will slide in around the aod, and everything else in the way, the go for booting them on before dropping the engine in. But bolting them in as you go may save some headach. Also you might want to remove the tower braces as those are sure to be in the way.

I think your going to find the rust through is mush larger that you think. As stated get all of the rust and start poking around with a pick of screw driver to see what it thin and needs to be replaced. Do it once and not need to go back in a few years and do it again.

I think I would see info it cleans up with some emery cloth

Not true. My 1993 ranger with the 4.0 had rear drums.

If the trailer is going to be inside the wood will last much longer than if left outside, either way I would use some type of sealer as well if going wood. 18’ will work but will be tight especially if it is a dovetail trailer. 18’ does not provide allot of room to move the load around to balance the weight. Last trailer I had was an 18’ with a dovetail and the one axle sat on the dovetail. Personally I would not buy a trailer with a dovetail again. If more clearance is needed loading drop the jack and jack up the front of the trailer while hitched to the tow vehicle. If the option presents itself opt for a C channel -vs- angle iron frame.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1969,mustang,5.8l+351cid+v8,1132401,steering,idler+arm,7328

Both links are to the same. That being said I moog has a history of quality and likely what I would choose. Also keep in mind these manufactures sell parts to your neighborhood auto parts store. No need to buy from one of the online mustang parts vendors.

Seems bit pricy but if you save a party at would it wise not be usable, like the common racks in headlight buckets, it may be well worth the $65 a pound. https://www.aluminumrepair.com/buy-now/