jmlay

Did you fill the converter when you installed it or is it dry?

As long as the hinges are in good shape & lubricated this should never be an issue. Problem is after all of these years these cars are not maintained to last 50+ years.

Yes. However I would take a shop vac and suck out as much water out of the heater core before capping.

I believe it is an injected plastic to hold the aluminum blocks.

Normal bodywork May straitened the panel. New wood grain vinyl may be purchased from a 3M supplier.

Good thing about this internet thing, I don’t need to remember everything: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=search2

I believe this is listed on the ppg color chart if you can find it online. Going from memory all metal parts, lower dash header panel trim, steering colum, trap door, etc... were charcoal and all plastic was black, assuming black interior.

Well it would be more expensive without one, all that oil and burned up parts on the ground. Maybe it is like a divorce, expensive but worth it. Or so I have heard... Please excuse my it is time for my cough syrup. The big spoons are a tsp right?

I know I have another burn for the life of me I am unable to find it. I will keep looking and let you know.

I believe I have a spare c6 trans crossmember. Will take a look this evening and let you know. Mike

This is a mustang part. It clips to the gage cluster to take up the gap between the colum and the gage cluster. If you need a picture installed let me know.

Stock will work fine except the lines that previously connected the master. This will require custom bent lines between the hydro boost unit and the distribution block.

Did you apply a sealant in the corners, between pan and gasket and gasket and block? Just a small bit.

I will take it. I will send you a PM.

That is a good catch. You better offer better BBQ than Rudy's! Lots of great places in & around Austin.: https://apps.statesman.com/austin360/eats/lists/43/best-barbecue-austin/