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jmlay last won the day on March 21

jmlay had the most liked content!

About jmlay

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 02/03/1971

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  • Location
    The Colony, TX


  • Location
    The Colony, TX

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  1. 64-73 have the same spring pad center to center width of 43”.
  2. @TexasEd I know of one for sale here in Dallas, my body guy. Complete minus drums. If your interested I can put you in touch.
  3. While there are always variances I do believe the spring purch are 43” center to center same as the frame rails.
  4. Thanks for the confirmation @Caseyrhe
  5. @TexasEd, While my measurements are accurate to this housing it appears my housing is NOT for a 67-70 Mustang/Cougar. I never intended to mislead anyone and apologize for any problems this may have caused! Good news is now i get to spend some more money. 54 1/4” is what I have read elsewhere for flange to flange. This falls inline with @det0326 measurements. Add 5” to that and you 59 1/4” for axle flange to flange. This is also what I have read elsewhere. Mike
  6. Removing post to help avoid any further confusion.
  7. I ASSUME what CJ is selling is the same as the rest you may find that will slip on a #8 screw. If it is to loose perhaps squeeze them with a pair of pliers to tighten them a bit. If to tight you might try to split the internal socket with side cutters so that it may expand.
  8. Yes, add a fuse or breaker.
  9. I believe 81 ish was the switch to 50oz.
  10. Some relevant reading hear: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/progression-ignition-installation.1205703/page-2
  11. @TexasEd, Thank you very much. You confirmed I do have an incorrect piece but it is NOT the one the body shop thought was incorrect. I have one coupe/convertible and one fastback. Coupe/convertible are longer than a fastback.
  12. I do not have the answer to your question but I do have a suggestion. Please consider buying the tools or take the parts to someone that has the appropriate tools to measure rather than trust plastigage. On edit, here is the answer to your question in regards to "A-2" & "B-1", at the end of the video.: https://www.dragzine.com/news/video-mahle-talks-markings-on-engine-bearings/
  13. I was inferring you were just replacing the rails forward. Guess I should work on my reading comprehension as I get older.... I see now! My car is currently with my body guy or I would happily take some measurements for you. As I recall the inner rocker & outer rocker should lineup & the bottom 90 deg bend should be even with the inner & outer rockers. I think I would start with getting the frame rails lined up per the drawings above & then line up the floor with the bottom of the rockers then clamp tograther. Next I would start clamping in the frame rails, core support per the drawings above. If all of that looks good put on your doors, fenders & hood to see how things line up. If you can adjust everything to get the lines correct start welding it all together. DO NOT weld anything until you have trial fit everything.
  14. Your not there yet but note in the liskey diagram, first attachment, the cross measurement from the rear frame rail to the front frame rail support, 59 1/8", is NOT incorrect. The diagram indicates to use the incorrect hole in the frame rail support to measure.
  15. Sorry for the poor quality, picture from mobile....
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