jmlay

If the width is stock 28 spline axle in a big housing would utilize an 88128-RA.

Read the voltage at all of the connections of the red/blue, with the ignition switch in start position. I would start in the middle a d work back toward the ignition switch until you find voltage. The problem will be between where you have voltage and where you do not. Could also start at the ignition switch and work toward the starter solinoid.

I have one. The spot weld holding the retaining has failed. Otherwise very nice piece. Let me know if your interested.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seal-quarter-latch-pillar/144763?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DWindow%2Bseal%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

Try this: I missed the convertible portion... This should help: https://www.motorclassiccorp.com/used-vehicle-1970-shelby-gt-350-mustang-convertible-c-53/

The connetor is pinned differently for a dash with a tach vs without tach. Verify what you have and the look at the diagrams and schematics. Some great resources on this site for electrical. Visit the how to portion of the forum for wiring diagrams and schematics.: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/forum/45-how-to039s/

A simple voltage meter solution is a usb phone charger with built in meter: https://www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger-Display-Voltage-Current/dp/B01M9IKYVH

All of the below match the specifications of your original: National 7300s National 7296s National 5203

Cheaper options do exist. Scott Drake has a couple of pair, Scott Drake C7ZZ-5258-C & C7ZZ-5258-GT2. Another option is United Pacific, FM003. All "correct" are going to fit a 2 1/4" pipe.

All 69 Mach1 received the stainless rolled tips. The "exact" repo are quite expensive. But there are several lower cost alternatives.: https://www.npdlink.com/product/tail-pipe-extensions/214326/200414?year=1969

I hate it when the garden hose gets a kink in it…

Peter, Are the bushing and spacers installed with the switch? https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-brake-light-switch/185676/

I would start with measuring between the frame rails near the radiator support and where the frame rails enter the rail extensions. Compare to ensure they are the same. If the are not the same one or both rails are not strait. Next I would find fixed points on the rails to make cross measurements to decide what if a thing has moved. Assuming all of the above checks out I would note all of the dimentions as listed in the attached thread. Note: There will be variances between cars. If your afraid the rails are going to move, they should not if there is no stress in the rails, one may brace them before cutting anything out.

Spray done into the cap and brush it on. or just don’t use it in those areas. Weld thru primers makes for lots of splatter as you burn through it as well as it makes porous welds. When I do use it is I scrape it or wire brush it from the direct weld area.