DocWok

I'm no expert but I think you should have no linkage connected to your pitman arm. Then wind your steering box from lock to lock, accurately count how many turns it takes then halve that for centre. Then lock your wheel there so it can't move (maybe wrap some masking tape around the steering boss and the steering column) Your tie rods should be the same length either side, this is important. Then adjust your tie rods equally either side to get the Toe-In you want.

Thanks Ridge, much appreciated. That will help, clearest picture I've seen so far.

I'm looking to make the scoop functional as a cold air intake on my 69. Have looked at the few pictures on the net, but they are usually taken at an angle so hard to gauge an accurate measurement of the pie-cuts. Would anyone have a hood with factory cut outs that they could put a tape against the holes to get a clear picture. It's a long shot I know, but worth to ask just in case I get lucky.

As aslanefe says the pitman arm is keyed, you can't just rotate it by a spline or two. Sounds like your problem is that the alignment shop simply did not bother to check that your steering box was centered before doing the alignment. As you stated you can simply do this yourself by counting how many turns it is lock to lock then turning it to halfway. You may have to remove your steering wheel and index it again so that it level. Put some masking tape on your steering wheel boss and the steering column marking the center point and get it realigned by a reputable shop.

Does anyone know if its possible to fit a 68 fastback rocker molding to a 69 fastback? I much prefer the thicker look of a 68 molding over the skinny 69 one.

In general up to 3 degrees mismatch between driveline angles is tolerable. Try your wedges to see if its an improvement, but I think it's possible your vibration issue may lay elsewhere.

Mal, You could take a measurement across the steel outer lip of your gearbox oil seal, just eyeball it to see if your degree measuring tool is straight up and down and not crooked. If not enough room, take your tailshaft out, then do your measurement. With the shaft out its also easier to measure your diff pinion angle, just rotate the yoke until its straight up and down then take your measurement. If your jacking your car up to get under it make sure it is level, you could put a level on your rocker sill to check. Support your diff on ramps or jack stands, don't take a reading with it hanging down unsupported. If as you say you have -5 degrees on your gearbox ideally you'd want a wedge to give you on your diff to give you +5, so that face of the yoke and pinion are parallel to each other. I'd be chucking a +3 wedge in the diff and giving it a test run. If you have room I've also seen where Ford used shims between the gearbox mount and gearbox to level things up a bit. Just be sure to double check the clearance between your fan and radiator if you try this. Good luck.

You would need both for the system to work correctly. A filtered air supply from your air cleaner to one valve cover OR a breather fitted to that cover. On the other valve cover you would need to hook up a PCV with vacuum supplied by either a intake manifold fitting OR a vacuum supply from your carb or carb spacer.

Sounds like you may have an accelerator pump issue with your carb. When you look down into the carb you should see 2 solid streams of fuel being injected as soon as you start any movement of the throttle linkage, if not you will need to chase down why it's not operating correctly.

It would seem that something in making your engine run richer as it warms up if you need to screw your idle mixture screws all the way in as it heats up. This symptom would seem to be the opposite of what a vacuum leak would cause, which would cause it to run lean. Maybe your carb floats are leaking and as the engine warms the float(s) leaks and sinks, causing the fuel level to rise? Did the engine have the same issues when you tried a different carb on it?

Really like your paint color. Not too light, not too dark, just right. What shade of Blue is it?

The fact that the shop did not supply you with the final alignment spec's would suggest they have not set it the spec's you required and have something to hide. RPM is spot on with his advice.

The observation from the OP that a feeler gauge could be slid along between the the Edelbrock manifold and intake gaskets on the alloy heads while it was correctly torqued in place would suggest the Edelbrock had been machined.

Your original heads had probably been milled by some unknown amount ,certainly not .200" but a substantial amount none the less in the past, for whatever reason (raise the compression, bad machinist, who knows.) Whatever it was cut, it was much more the a light surfacing and this in turn moves the position the inlet manifold bolt hole inwards , so then the standard Edelbrock manifold bolt holes would no longer line up with the corresponding holes in the heads, and so the manifold would have to be cut as well to allow it to sit lower in the valley to allow the manifold bolt holes line up again. This would explain the loose fit of the Edelbrock manifold in the valley when you fitted the alloy heads (returning it to stock bolt hole locations) and the Edelbrock now not quite covering the inlet ports of the new heads. Machining of the original heads would make the inlet ports on the aftermarket head appear to be situated higher from the deck compared to the original milled head. In my 47 years of working on cars I have seen this a couple of times and it would be easy to see why someone with lesser experience would become confused. Your on the right track now and I wish you the best of luck with the rest of your build.

Nobody (except Barnett) ever mentioned that the original heads had been milled .200". The OP only said that the tops of the ports are .2" higher than the cast iron heads. The new heads probably have larger inlet ports compared to a standard head.