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DocWok

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DocWok last won the day on November 1 2017

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About DocWok

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 10/06/1958

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    Australia

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  1. The fact that the shop did not supply you with the final alignment spec's would suggest they have not set it the spec's you required and have something to hide. RPM is spot on with his advice.
  2. The observation from the OP that a feeler gauge could be slid along between the the Edelbrock manifold and intake gaskets on the alloy heads while it was correctly torqued in place would suggest the Edelbrock had been machined.
  3. Your original heads had probably been milled by some unknown amount ,certainly not .200" but a substantial amount none the less in the past, for whatever reason (raise the compression, bad machinist, who knows.) Whatever it was cut, it was much more the a light surfacing and this in turn moves the position the inlet manifold bolt hole inwards , so then the standard Edelbrock manifold bolt holes would no longer line up with the corresponding holes in the heads, and so the manifold would have to be cut as well to allow it to sit lower in the valley to allow the manifold bolt holes line up again. This would explain the loose fit of the Edelbrock manifold in the valley when you fitted the alloy heads (returning it to stock bolt hole locations) and the Edelbrock now not quite covering the inlet ports of the new heads. Machining of the original heads would make the inlet ports on the aftermarket head appear to be situated higher from the deck compared to the original milled head. In my 47 years of working on cars I have seen this a couple of times and it would be easy to see why someone with lesser experience would become confused. Your on the right track now and I wish you the best of luck with the rest of your build.
  4. Nobody (except Barnett) ever mentioned that the original heads had been milled .200". The OP only said that the tops of the ports are .2" higher than the cast iron heads. The new heads probably have larger inlet ports compared to a standard head.
  5. More likely the the original heads had been machined sometime in the past and the Edelbrock was milled to match the original heads. I doubt Weiand machined an oversize manifold and foothilltorn just happened to find it and it solved a non-existant problem with new aftermarket heads.
  6. barnett468 v8 powered poster Members 337 3,400 posts Report post Posted August 12 "if the gaskets are not the problem, the heads are most likely the problem because it is extremely rare that someone mills down an intake manifold. You can do a few tests to try and determine exactly what part may be wrong. This will require a protractor which is cheap and a few spacers etc." I'm glad that you found the problem with the Edelbrock manifold having been milled, it always pays to check this with a used manifold no matter how 'Extremely Rare' it is that some machining may have been done in the past. I have come across this issue a couple of times before where cylinder heads have been machined and then the intake milled to suit.
  7. Before you unbolt the intake manifold, it may be an idea to try and see if it's possible to slide a feeler gauge between the manifold and intake gasket. It may give you an indication if you are getting any crush on the gasket. Sounds like one hell of a leak if you have both coolant and vacuum leaks.
  8. You should check that the 'used' manifold has not been machined. If it has been previously been machined excessively then this may explain your intake leak. Plenty of information on the internet on how to check this.
  9. If you correctly blue the valves i.e. apply it correctly, very thin - tap the valve up and down a couple of times without rotating it and it shows a correct seat, then lapping the valves will achieve nothing extra.
  10. Hey Ridge, What do you use to fill in the recesses where it was originally lead filled, do you re-fill them with lead or use something different?
  11. The Centreforce weights are there to increase the diaphram clamping force at higher r.p.m, centrifugal force tends to throw the weights outwards at higher speeds increasing the pressure the diaphram spring applies to the clutch plate. Best of both worlds, allows for reduced pedal pressure at low rpm with increased clamping force at higher rpm. I use a Centreforce DF on mine, had no issues, works great.
  12. Seems like you've already made up your mind, but if it were me and the motor runs ok, I'd just buy a 28oz flex plate and try it. It's a lot of extra work to get a engine balanced when it may not be necessary.
  13. You sound like your an experienced sort of guy, so at the risk of stating the obvious and not wishing to insult your competency, do you have your brake shoes facing the right direction? The shorter leading shoe lining should face towards the front of your car and the longer trailing shoe lining should be facing the rear. Just a thought.
  14. Jeff, Any chance of some pictures of the bracket in situ, I like the look of this set up. As you mention "looks factory stock".
  15. Yep, Lots and lots of members valuable picture records and resources that took time and effort to post simply deleted and lost forever at the click of a button. I think the forum has lost its mojo.
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