Bob & Sue

Last Friday May 25th this engine was on the stand with crank & pistons installed Monday we fired it up started on the 2nd crank banged & popped 7 & 8 wires were reversed. Broke it in for 30 mins everything went fairly well. I didn't do that much except setup the MSD system. 460 cu in Ford, all MSD, 950 DP, Isky Cam, Springs & Roller Rockers, Offenhauser Manifold. https://photos.app.goo.gl/OtfAj2UnKd9t9tE12 https://photos.app.goo.gl/X2jx49TyN8JMDafy1

Here's a clutch & brake setup that would be the correct one if the poster has it posted correctly. https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/d/1969-mustang-clutch-and/6589130416.html

That's a good video explanation was easy to understand. The only thing I would add is after you've done your math to determine center line geometry I think his number was .355, 7.1 turns. I always use a dial indicator even though it's not necessary, either setup a 1" travel indicator or setup a standard indicator at the top of the throw & use .355 Jo block. I guess it's the machinist in me. Didn't mean to add a new twist the OP will be fine doing it that way in the video. Going to setup a 460 with an Isky cam, push rods & roller rockers later today or tomorrow for a boat good refresher video.

These specs are for SA570 out of the box. Primary Main Jet 54 Primary Power Valve 8.5 Primary Pump Nozzle Size 31 Product Type 4150 Model Carburetor Secondaries Vacuum Secondary Main Jet 65 Supercharged Application No Mine is an older carb it came with 58 primary 66 secondaries & 31 pump nozzle. I found the 54 & 65 gave much better gas mileage & throttle response with one size down on the power valve. You can pull the primary bowl without removing the carb just disconnect the fuel line & 4 bowl screws. You can download the Holley doc's from their site with the list on your carb. https://www.holley.com/support/carburetor/

When you adjusted the pump was the throttle cable disconnected? You need to adjust it at WOT to a snug fitting .015, if it's adjusted to tight it won't come back to idle like it should & you'll smell gas.

No words can help they are more than just a family member never ending love that can always put a smile on your face when your down. We've owned German Shepherds since the late 60's we lost our last one to hip dysplasia 10 years ago we wanted another one but just can't take the pain of losing another friend. I honestly love our animals more than most people. We have a cat that's my baby going on 15 years dreading the day we lose her. I still get emotional thinking of our animals we've had during the years.

AZ actually sells them but they are listed on their website as a 4 pin instead of 5 pin, Amazon also sells them. The part # varies N005W or DF005W they're both the same. I bought a case from Grainger for a bit over $10.00 I'm going to use them on the headlights also. https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/relay-and-resistors/blazer-relay-and-resistors/548657_0_0 https://www.amazon.com/Blazer-International-Trailer-Towing-Accessories/dp/B00LCVZNPS

Barnett, Question about a Scott Drake t-stat housing I had another brand on mine that leaked no matter what I did. Found & bought a concours oem ford tooling t-stat housing when I was ordering some other parts it's a SD part # is C50E-8592-A. Hasn't leaked a drip since I put it on. Does SD have a line of oem concours Ford tooling parts? With a line of over the counter AZ, O's, NAPA cheaper repros. I'll be buying some more interior parts like window cranks how can I order from you? I agree on almost everything you suggested especially the PPG paint it's one thing you don't want to go cheap, lesser quality paint can ruin a build. I haven't heard anyone say anything good about AAW wiring kits. Sorry about the hi-jack Trips I was running an old Pertronix 1 conversion till the dizzy finally wore out after trying a couple other setups I went to a Pertronix Stock Look Cast Dizzy they sell them as either 1 or 3. I used a relay to power the coil with 12 volts using the fused stock wire to energize the relay didn't need to run a new wire from the key & the fused wire is still there if it ever goes back to points. The PO owner had a big mess of wires under the dash one was the 12v power for the dizzy, I'm slowly getting rid of the mess. Here's the Pertronix 3 for a 351c https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7134620?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-pertronix&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5dOE0bjd2gIVl8VkCh0ZOw0dEAYYAiABEgJ4wvD_BwE

This type of relay is referred to as a Bosch or European style relay with dual #87 normally open N/O pins.Mostly used for powering a set of headlights etc. A relay with 1 #87 & 1 #87A is usually referred to as a common relay with #87 N/O & #87A N/C. When #30 triggers the relay #87A will change to N/O & 87 will change to N/C. I'll try switching pins with dizzy & coil next time I'm working on it. It's working good now I hate to touch it. I'll take some pics after the harness is cleaned up.

Here's some pic's of a late 69 Mach 1 , early 69's had a domed head with C stamped on them if I remember right.

It powers both the choke & dizzy here a pic of the relay wiring there are (2) #87 powered on connectors. They 2nd pic is with car running. #30 fused 12 volt power, #86 fused link from key, top #87 to dizzy, bottom #87 to choke, #85 to ground

I took a different approach using a relay Blazer 30 amp N005W sp/st with 2 #87 connectors to power both the 12v choke & distributor. I ran a short fused wire from the plus side of the battery, since I wasn't using the fused 6v wire to the coil I used that as the power on for the relay. Ran 2 wires 1 to choke 1 to dizzy, still need to make a harness for it now that I know it works. It's been on there for over a month with no problems, plus I still have the fused coil wire if it ever goes back to a points system. There's a lot of good ideas in this thread Would have posted on this sooner if I had seen this thread.

All gone

Glad to hear he fixed ya up. If anyone else needs a set I will have them till next weekend. Trading a couple boxes of OEM parts to a restorer buddy of Cougars & Mustangs for some windshield wiper parts.

One other thought is to make sure wherever the ground wires are bolted on be sure to sand & clean the area of contact don't just rely on the bolt threads for a solid ground, then touch it up with some engine bay paint & cover it with dielectric I like using grounding blocks it gives you more connections in the future. I have a set of 16' Fluke cables that I can reach any point on the car to check continuity from all grounding points. I went through the car making sure I had continuity from neg battery to every grounding point I could find, I found several with poor connections. A bit off topic our last boat the PO had connected 12v grounds to the bonding side (120 volt system) & 120 volt grounds to some 12v grounds this led to stray current in the water when plugged into shore power which could have killed someone in the water or me in the bilge if there was water present. It took me several days of sorting out wires to get it correct. 4 AWG wire is plenty for your system here's a good calculator to to determine amp loss of anysize wire. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=0.8152&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=10&distanceunit=feet&amperes=60&x=86&y=18