Zefevinee

As the title says, I need 1 hi note, & 1 low note horn fr my 69 Mustang.
Mike.

I purchased a new accelerator pedal & spring & tried to install the spring today & I cannot figure out how to install the spring. It looks like the coiled section of the spring should go around the bolt that holds the pedal to the linkage arm, but the linkage arm is the same width as the space in the back of the pedal. I tried doing a google search & did a search here & did not get much help, a picture would be great.
 

Worked part day Thanksgiving day and all day yesterday to fill some orders .Last part finished and my compressor gives out a couple of coughs ,then stops and starts again ,coughs a couple more times and nothing ...DOA!
I had an email from Harbor Freight ,it showed a 1 1/2 electric compressor motor for $149 ,Sweet ,just what i need .Get to harbor freight and notice a member discount for $119 for the same motor YEAH! 
I buy the motor and take it home ,open the box and notice a piece of packing foam missing ,not a big deal .I take the motor out of the box and find leaves under it ...HUH, thinking ...Something isn't right here .Then i notice the cord is cut off ...Oh crap ! I wire it up and hit the switch and noting ...not a friggen thing .Someone had returned it after frying it and they placed it back on the shelf ...well, now i am pissed .I return it ant let them know i wasn't happy .Counter lady say's go back and get another one ...They aint no more !!! This was a 28 mile trip for me one way so i wasn't in the best of moods when i got home .It will be at least next Wednesday before i get my compressor going now .

It's been almost a year now since I purchased my 69 428CJ R-code. I've been floating around this forum for a little while, but thought it time to share and to keep a bit of a log with my car.
 
Ever since I was a little kid, all I have ever wanted is a 69/70 Mach 1. In February 2011 I flew to the USA, met up with a guy who I had been talking to for a few months, and purchased his 69 Mach 1 R-code 428 Cobra Jet with a 4 speed close ratio transmission and 3.91:1 traction lock diff.
 
Here's some pics of it during the purchase process:
 
The pics that were emailed to me when I found it
 

 

 
Coming back from my first drive in Louisiana. It was the first time I had ever driven a Mustang, first time to drive a LHD manual (the day before was the first time to drive a LHD car which was the hire car) and also the first time I've driven a big block. So it was a very quick learning curve.
 

 
It loaded up to go meet the truck for delivery to Los Angeles
 

 

 
Waiting 4 hours in a Wallmart carpark, the truck was extremely late even though we were told they would be 20mins after we arrived. Standing in that carpark was an eye opener on its own. Many people stopped to take photos which was awesome! And many others stopped to buy drugs from someone dealing not far from where we were. I've never seen anything like it.
 

 
Going onto the truck in Lafayette to make the journey to L.A.
 

 
After arriving in L.A. and giving it a wash
 

 

 

 

 

 
And me with my new toy, extremely over whelmed and extremely exhausted from all the travelling and lack of sleep.
 

 
I'm was so happy with my purchase, I couldn't describe the feeling. It's the one and only car I have ever really wanted and the one car I will never sell. EVER!!
 
I finally got word of it arriving in May and was quickly down to pick it up. Here she was waiting for me. Unfortunately it was running like shit! It wasn't running great when we dropped it off to the exporter but knew it had a few things needing attention.
 

I think Ridge's delivery guy may have a new job working at eBay's global shipping. After the best part of a month, the new A-pillars arrived today. It took 12 days to go from California heading west (?) before it was in the air heading back east. Then the guys in Sydney must have been stoked to have seen them as they held onto them, after clearing customs, for about a week. Either that or possibly Ridge's delivery guy must have been tired from walking across the US with them in hand that he decided to leave his employment at eBay global shipping and now resides in Sydney schooling Aus Post on the method of mail delivery by foot.
 
Any who....I now have them and I'm not letting them go. hehe
 

 
I lined them up in place on the 69 and realised they are going to need a little assistance to sit where they need to go. They will be ok, definitely stronger than the originals but I can see the difference between factory and aftermarket.
 
I drilled a few holes for some plug welds, cleaned it up and brushed on some epoxy.
 

I read a post of Max Power on the forum Oct 2013 that he had owned 2 1970 Grande Coupes with Vinyl roofs. I tried to send him a PM but it would't go through,so Max Power if you see this it would be great to hear from you. I am in Australia & am presently restoring a 1970 Grande Coupe with the Landau 1/2 vinyl roof. I bought the car completely disassembled in pieces. There were no clips that hold the chrome trim that goes across the roof. I have had great difficulty in trying to source  some. Would anyone have any photos of the clips or any spare Clips or would anyone know where I might be able to buy some. I am also trying to buy 2 of the plastic lugs (as seen in the attached Photos) that fit in the aluminium lower rear window trim & holds the window trim to the lower trim clips would anyone know where I might be able to get these. Unfortunately, we don't have any Mustang wrecking yards here in Queensland,Australia. It would be very much appreciated if someone were able to help me. Thanking you Regards Phil (v8ford70)

All these things added up make the interior of these cars so nice, very nice haul :)

I've been enjoying the information, wisdom and banter around here for a few weeks now and wanted to reach out and say hello.
 
A few weeks back, I bought my second Mustang (the first was a 1984 4-cyl turbo convertible, so I really don't know if that counts) but this one is a verified '69 GT car (Sports Roof, 351w, 4 Speed, GT Pkg...yeah, I'm stoked). Anyway, she needs some of the usual TLC (photos to follow when I figure that out), but there's no reason why she can't be running and driving by Spring of 2017.
 
My question: If it were in your garage, would you wind back the clock and restore her to when she first rolled off the line, or would you consider repainting, beefing up suspension, adding disks all around, etc.? She's one of 1,954 with this paint and trim. Driver's door has been replaced.
 
I bought her to drive, not to be a garage darling, but I don't want to paint a mustache on the Mona Lisa either....
 
I welcome your thoughts...
 
-Tony

Selling My Raven Black 70 Mach I needs a new home. Car is located in Raleigh NC
Older complete nut and bolt restoration I finished in 2004 that included Paint, interior, suspension, drivetrain, brakes
Original Shaker Hood car with original rear spoiler and rear sport deck fold down.
Car is not a concourse or matching numbers drivetrain. An H code car, triple black from the factory.
Professionally built D9 block 351w stroker, AFR heads, CC Hydraulic roller
Performance Automatic C4
9" 3.70 posi with Shelby underides, Roller Spring perches,  Eccentric Eliminators, Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods
Disc Brakes with stainless caliper pistons, Drilled and slotted rotors, Braided stainless steel lines.
Marti Report, Loius Eminger invoice, FOMOCO letter, buck tag, Clear title
Must go, kids braces, 4 wisdom teeth and new project cause the bitter sweet sale.
Will need tires
The car is not a trailer queen and priced more than correctly so serious buyers only please.
$27,500

This beautiful 1970 Ford Mustang Mach I with a built 428 Super Cobra Jet, 4-speed Toploader, disc brakes and power steering has just completed a full top to bottom restoration and has less than 100 miles on the restoration. A true Mach 1, this car started life as a 351 automatic car and had the 428 SCJ and Toploader swapped in by the previous owner. I purchased the car in 2004 and began the restoration that same year. As she spends most of her time in my garage, it is time to send her to a new home where her legs will be stretched regularly. Clean and clear Florida title in hand.
 
ENGINE:
 
The 428 was built by Bill's Speed Shop out of Fuquay-Varina, NC and features TRW .060 pistons with big valve cuts, a Crower solid lifter cam shaft, ported intake, polished Lemans rods, FPP rockers, stands, spacers and pushrods, shell lifters, steel roller timing chain, windage tray, 8 qt Milodan oil pan and ARP bolts. The motor also had all the necessary machine work done. The rear of the block prominently features the 'C' scratch mark, which indicates that it is a reinforced block used for 428CJ/SCJ's. I have added a Pertronix Stage III distributor with electronic ignition and a new Pertronix Flamethrower coil. The motor is fed by a Carter electric fuel pump and is topped by a Holley Double Pumper.
 
TRANSMISSION/REAR END:
 
The 4-speed Toploader has been rebuilt, is tight, rows the gears smoothly and features a Hurst shifter. The power is transferred to the pavement via a Ford 9" rear end with a 3.55 Detroit Locker.
 
SUSPENSION:
 
This Mach sits on a brand new suspension featuring a set of Shelby 1" drop springs (550#) on new spring perches and 1" lift shackles in the rear for a more aggressive stance. The bushings have all been replaced with urethane bushings and everything is tight throughout. The front shocks are KYB-GR2's, which when paired with the Shelby drop springs, makes for a great handling combination. The rear shocks are also KYB-GR2s.
 
BRAKES:
 
The front brakes have been converted to disc brakes with new rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. The factory soft rubber brake lines have been replaced by braided stainless steel lines. The rears are still drum brakes, however they have been rebuilt with new shoes and wheel cylinders.
 
STEERING:
 
This Mach has been converted to a power steering car with all of the necessary proper original Ford 428 pulleys and brackets being sourced from specialty suppliers. The power steering ram is brand new, as are all of the power steering high and low pressure lines. The car also had a recent alignment and drives straight and true.
 
WHEELS/TIRES:
 
The front Magnum 500's are brand new, while the rears are a little older and show a little wear (though that's only noticeable when you look closely for it). The front tires are brand new as well with less than 100 miles on them, while the rear tires have around 1,000 miles on them and are a little older. Plenty of tread left on the tires though.
 
GLASS:
 
The front windshield is brand new and looks fantastic. The rear glass is original Ford and is also in excellent shape. The rear quarter windows are in great shape and feature old school Holman-Moody race stickers (easily removable if desired). The door glass is in good shape, however the driver's side window does have a mark on it where I was told by the previous owner that a rock was thrown at it. The passenger side window also has a few small marks on it as well, though since this car does not have air conditioning, I rarely have the windows up and have never found this to be noticeable or an issue. As 70 was a bolt in door glass, replacement can be done quickly and inexpensively if so desired by the new owner.
 
INTERIOR:
 
The interior is in fantastic shape with freshly recovered seats (front and rear), a brand new OEM Ford tooling dash pad, new headliner and new deluxe door panels. The original rim blow steering wheel was refurbished and has a new switch installed. A custom Autometer gauge setup is located under the center section of the dash, which is covered in black vinyl that matches the seats nearly perfectly. Underneath the brand new carpeting is a sound deadening insulation (kind of like Dynamat).
 
The factory wiring harness was completely refurbished by Midlife and is in excellent shape. All the lights and gauges work, as does the AM radio. The Mach clock was working when I reinstalled it about a year ago, but now only works intermittently. I would imagine it's time for a quartz rebuild kit on it (~$100), or just leave it as is and enjoy the car as is. All of the lights have been converted to LED as well for a brighter display.
 
EXTERIOR:
 
The car was media blasted down to bare metal with any areas of rust being repaired. By and large, the car was in pretty solid shape after the media blasting. Torque boxes were installed to strengthen/stiffen the car and the driver's side floor pan was replaced along with a patch panel being installed on the driver's side lower rear quarter. After the metal work, the car was painted with a custom shade of dark grey metallic in base coat/clear coat. The paint is gorgeous and really pops in the sun due to all of the metal flake. There is a small paint chip on the passenger side headlight bucket from a rock. I've touched it up to make it less noticeable, but you can still see it in certain lights. The chrome bumpers front and rear are brand new and the front and rear window trim was refurbished by removing all of the dents and polishing out any scratches to a high shine. All other chrome parts were either cleaned up to look new or were replaced with new chrome.
 
OTHER INFORMATION:
 
Included with the sale is a second cowl panel painted the color of the car with holes drilled for the Autometer gauges that have been moved inside the cabin. This allows the gauges to be placed on the outside in direct line of sight and is ideal for drag racing. Also included with the sale is large box of spare and replacement parts, a binder of receipts and a full car car cover. Two sets of keys are also included with the sale.
There are too many other new or refurbished parts to include in this post, though all receipts from the restoration and some from the previous owner are available. She's an absolute head turner and gets looks and thumbs up everywhere I go. Additional pictures are available upon request. This Mach is located in the Southwest Florida/Fort Myers area and I am happy to help arrange for shipping. I hate to see her go, but it is time. Asking $36,900 or reasonable offer. Additional pictures can be found here - http://imgur.com/a/PmoiF.

I have found out after buying my car that the passenger side of the car was in an accident by the crude work that has been done to fix ti by a previous owner of the car. I am looking for a way to either stretch the b pillar out or a used mustang passenger b pillar to replace it.  any ideas on how i could fix it? 

Hey guys,
Hoping to see if anyone has an idea what may have happened here for someone to re-weld this patch next to the shift column.
 
I was removing the carpet and found this welded piece but it still had a square opening.
 
Any ideas??

For some reason I don't get any results when using the 'View New Content'. Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?
 

My new carlite windshield came with a 1970 mount preinstalled. What is the best way to remove without scratching?
 
Gobble gobble!

i have seen cars with 1 clip and some with 2 . . if your windows are aligned perfectly they arent needed for that . . try the mustang shop of concord and mustang vilage in california for them . they might cost 50.00 for 1 or 50.00 for both hard to say.
 
 
yes i consider myself fortunate to meet a lot of people and find a lot of cars etc but it has been a lot of work too . . it must have been fun meeting those guys . . i remember the hawaiian . they would race at ocir near where i lived . . racers are fun to talk to if you get them loosened up a bit . i was a professional motocross rider and ran the r and d dept for kawasaki and lets just say there are a lot of highly entertaining stories to be told lol.

I have brought this up on other Mustang forums. I own a 1970 Mach 1 that I bought new. I have been replacing certain items on the car that are old and worn out. I replaced the roof rail weather stripping and I don't like the fit of the new rubber. It's made well and the material is better than the original, but the fit or design is poor at the rear door jamb and up around the side flip out glass. I have adjusted this area of the molding every way I can, but the fit is still poor. The width of the rubber that runs under the window doesn't seem to be wide enough. It won't overlap the interior rear side panel if it is up against the "C" chrome molding. If I get the interior side to fit well, there is a good size gap at the "C" molding. The end of the rubber at the door jamb isn't a good fit either. It doesn't seal the gap between the door and rear quarter like the original did. Maybe I'm too picky. The weather stripping was advertised as being "made with Ford Tooling", but I wonder about that claim. Has anyone else had these issues? Also, my cars roof rail stainless steel molding channels only had one window clip on each side. I see other 70 fastbacks at car shows and some have two clips on each channel. Is this factory correct? Thanks.

Hey guys, 
 
I want better handling in my car. I want it to handle like a newer car (some say you can't do it, others say you can get it better than a newer car). I started out with 5k in mind, but I just got a quote from TCP for $10,500. Now that's a complete suspension (Rack, Upper and lower, coilover, strut rods, antiroll, pumps, hoses etc for front, Subframe Connectors and G-bar coilover setup with antiroll in the rear). I definitely want the internals of my car to be brand new since I'm slowly transforming this car into a daily driver for decades to come. 
 
I'm just double checking my work to make sure this is the route I should go or are there components I should switch out from TCP to another brand? Also, I would love to have a lower cost, but I've heard that Unisteer is a cheap rack from a few different shops. I've also heard cons about Flaming River. 
 
Who has switched to a Rack? How do you feel about it? 
 
As of now I have a pretty stock car with a fairly new manual steering box, Willwood disks all around, 18" wheels and it's fun to drive. I'm just getting sick of manual and I'd like it to handle better around corners and be easier to drive. 

Finally got the AOD all hooked up and ready to run last weekend. Started it up, there was a "Bad bearing" sound coming from the torque converter area, no TV pressure on the gauge and the engine acted like it was under a load and didn't want to stay running very easily. (and yes I did put 2 quarts in the converter before installation). A friend who's worked a lot with AOD's helped and I'm thinking he may not have got the converter on all the way. It's going to a shop next week, if I'm right the front pump is trashed at minimum, quite possibly my $350 B&M converter and at worst it sent metal through the trans.
Not a happy camper.
 
Matt  

I am getting ready to drop my shortblock into the car and I am looking for a good set of engine mounts for my Windsor that can hold up to a lot of extra horsepower.  Any recommendations?
 
 

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

Does anyone have any advice on crate engines and best places to get pricing and availability? Not too sure what to go with and was hoping for some advice to send me in the right direction.

I'm heading to Columbus this Saturday for the big semi-annual all-Ford swap meet. It's a big one (used to be bigger before eBay and the internet ruined everything, but it's still big :)
 
Post up your want lists and I'll happily keep an eye out for stuff.
 
 

Hi guys. My buddy had his 69 painted before mine and he went with the blackout flat black hood, mines a Mach 1 and had it originally. Now I have a question for anyone that has the blackout hood. I notice a step from the glossy paint to the matte black on the hood and I'm worried about the wear over time, has anyone gotten their hoods repainted flat black and had it last a long time? I'm worried of the wear as compared to just getting a vinyl put on for the flat black. Both seem about the same step but when the vinyl gets worn I can take off and put a new one. Paint is a much bigger process. Attached is the best pic I could get of the step.

What's a car like this worth....in basket case condition, missing most parts, with typical rust. are they worth rebuilding. are folks still looking for projects like this? Not really wanting to build it, since I already have one done., but may purchase to resell here if the market supports....Your honest thoughts welcomed. Thanks.
also have short marti report. clear title.
 






 

Looking  for some  insight  OR  help !!!   I recently  acquired a 69 Mustang right hand ( passenger  side )  remote control mirror I know  that  they  are  supposed  to be ONLY ???  manual  adjust  since  that  is  all I have ever seen  in my years  around the 69 70  Stangs.  I was  told  it  is  RARE !!!!  it has  the correct  base  a C9ZB on  it  the cable  is  long  to  reach  over to the drivers  area  and it  is old  and dirty  it  does  NOT  look  like  it  has  been  hampered with . IS IT  POSSIBLE  that  this  is  an ORIGINAL part  from Ford ??? Does  anybody  know ???  any insight would  be  greatly  appreciated
                                 Thanks  in advance!!!!!