rharden

I used Muggy Weld and it was like that. They recommended a 000 acetylene torch as low as I could adjust it. Still too hot. It was very difficult to use. I was repairing Ford/Mercury aluminum trim moldings. I somewhat gave up. This may be better. Thanks

I installed the headliner on my 70 Mach 1, and to do it right and have it look good, the rear glass and sail panels must be removed. The headliner goes in behind the rear glass rubber molding. So do the sail panels. You need to purchase a new rear glass molding and the proper 3M sealer for the rear glass rubber. Make sure this sealer is installed in the inner groove in the rubber molding, between the rubber and glass. After the glass is in, the sealer is installed between the rubber and the metal body, like cauking. Sealer can be installed in the outer groove, but it's very messy, because this is where the string goes when you install the rear glass. The stainless trim will cover this. It is messy, but it cleans up easily with mineral spirits. The front glass could be left in. I had taken my glass out, because it was cracked.

I started this post back over a year ago. I have tried to fit these rubber moldings, rear side windows and interior panels every way I can. I never did get a good fit, no matter what I did. When I installed the interior panel (the ones made of fiber glass) and then measure the distance the distance between the edge of the panel and the boomerang chrome molding, I get at least 1 3/16" on both sides. This means the rubber molding would have to be at least 1 1/4" wide along the bottom of the side window. The ones I have are not that wide, and I couldn't find any that were. I ended up taking the rubber used to install over the weld seam on the rear wheel houses, as installed in the trunk, and cut it in half length wise and to the correct length. I glued it to the inner part of the rubber roof rail molding, just where the rubber is to lap over the interior panel. It covers perfectly, looks good and there is no gap! It's not stock, but I don't care. My doors shut fine and I'm happy.

That's OK.

Thanks for both replies. I am at the stock height, all new springs. I may change this someday, lower it. I just wanted to know what other guys have done so I don't buy the wrong set up. I'll check out rims with about the same backspacing and offset. Do you two guys have any pictures? Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what is the widest wheel and tire combination I can put under my 70 Mach 1. I'm more concerned about the rears, but front info would be nice also. I don't want the tires protruding past the wheel opening and I don't want them rubbing. I have stock suspension, and I would like to run a 17" wheel, with a tire diameter of around 26" to 27" (rears). If anyone has any info, backspace numbers and tire size, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

When will you be going to coil over? I would be interested, but I don't want to wait too long. Let me know.

Thanks for all the help and pictures. I was out in the barn, digging through my old car stuff and I found the original 70 brake lines I removed from my Mustang. I thought I had pitched them years ago. There are six fasteners on the long tunnel line. All these are the same and they are identical to the new ones in my brake line fastener kit. My old firewall line is missing a few fasteners, but I can see exactly where they are located. I even found the original fuel line. No clips, but I can see where they were on the line. I think my problem is solved. Thanks again.

Thanks Matt. That helps for the firewall. Did you have any pics of the tunnel area, like where the drive shaft goes? Rich

I'm doing a forever restoration on my 70 Mach 1. It's been apart for several years. I should have taken more pictures of the disassembly. I'm installing the SS brake lines, but I'm have quite a time trying to figure out what clip goes where. I can't find anything in my manuals or other books and Google that shows me much. The fastener kit I bought is supposed to have everything for the brake lines and fuel lines. Why couldn't they have included a drawing? I need some help, so if anyone out there has any info or pictures they can share, I would really appreciate it. I mainly need the tunnel line clip type and locations and the firewall line. Thanks.

The old slapper bars I have are too short. I bought them years ago, 1970, from a local speed shop and they probably were not the correct bars for my car. At the time, I wouldn't have known. I trusted the speed shop sales guy to sell me the correct bars. My bar snubber is about four inches short of the front spring bushing or eye. I like the Cal Tracs and I think they would be the best as far as what is sold today, for a leaf spring suspension.

Thanks. I have never seen a set like this. Interesting. I talked to a Chevy buddy of mine and he installed the Cal Tracs, but he didn't install the aluminum bushing. He installed a poly graphite spring bushing and everything works great, at least on the street. He said the road noise in minimal.

http://www.gearheadtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?25774-Cal-Tracs-vs-Traction-Masters I read a few reviews on the net, from people who have installed both Cal-Tracs and bars like Traction Master. It seems like Cal-Tracs are bragged up more than most other types, no matter what car they were installed on. I just don't want wheel hop. The old slapper bars will hop and hopping isn't cool.

I have a 1970 Mach 1, 408C stroker and four speed. I need a good set of traction bars. The car will not be raced and I want to maintain a decent ride. I now have an old, slapper bar system that has the rubber snub that comes up against the bottom of the leaf spring. I don't care for it and was thinking about the other style that has the weld on, front mount. I still want to be able to connect my shocks and sway bar. Does anyone have a suggestion? I see several ones on the market. I like the Cal Trac, but I don't like the idea of replacing the front leaf spring bushing (I have poly-graphite in mine) with a solid aluminum bushing. Too much road noise. Thanks.