TexasEd

got the week off to tackle this, so far its been a crazy experience. Im looking forward to getting this girl back on the road!
 

Have the two halves of the mold apart ,and no damage to the mold or the two original pieces . The originals wernt to easy to get out of the mold but the new pieces should just jump right out . The first couple will be a practice run just to see what i have to do to get them to turn out like i want . 
My materials just made it in so i may try to make a couple in black this week end ,pieces this small are hard to make ,especially with my big fat fingers ! 

Thanks, that's a good find- now we only need the sides 8242-4A and 8243-4A  to match. Those would be tough shapes to tool in stainless, but its no problem to chrome the aluminum.

Do you mean NPD item # 8242-4B :) 
 

Step AWAY FROM THE BEDDING AND GLAZING COMPOUND for starters.... That stuff is utter Crap IMHO.
A guy I know that owned a restoration shop for a very long time turned me on to some stuff years ago.
Its Called CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. Its made by C.R Laurence Co. Inc.... Its Black, messy as hell and will do the trick the first time... Just be sure to tape up about 2" of the glass at the weather stripping and 2-4" on the paint around the window...When I say this stuff is messy that is an understatement HaHa...Wear Gloves also because its super stringy.
Here is a link, you can get it on Amazon.
 
https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-CRL7708-Windshield-Sealant/dp/B000KZWKE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406587&sr=8-1&keywords=crl+windshield+and+body+sealant
If link no workie go to Amazon and put in CRL Windshield and Body Sealant, you wanting the 7708 Stuff...Go ahead and get 4 tubes
 
 
 
 
Here is how my buddy showed me to do it.
 
Mark All your studs for the clips with some blue painters tape, which you should already have all around the glass on the body, then take a magic marker and make a line on the tape that's dead in line with your studs, extend the line to the edge of the tape in case you get sealer on it you will still be able to locate the line.
 
Install weather strip on glass after its been warmed in the sun for a bit, you could also warm it via a hair dryer or heat gun, just be careful.... Load the channel in the weather stripping with some good poly rope and set the glass in place, then have buddy hold glass in place from the outside, while you pull rope from inside to lip the seal over.... Im sure you know this already but figured I would relay it anyhow.
 
Next step... take the CRL sealer and cut the tip off close to the end, don't want a big gaping hole in the 1st tube, just a nice 1/4" thick bead.... now from the outside of the car, insert the tip between the weather strip and the glass and start squeezing. Its helpful to have someone help hold the rubber seal up for you so you can easily see how much your putting in. You MAY start to see a very small amount come out on the inside of the glass in the car...when you see it start moving working your way around the glass till you get back where you started. 1 Tube should make this pass, Possibly 1 & 1/4 tube...Really poke the tip down into the channel, don't worry about hurting the weather strip by lifting it up a good bit, I haven't torn one yet.
 
Next Step.....
If you went to a 2nd tube cut the tip a little bit bigger and start filling the space between the body and the weather stripping.... poke the tip down in there a bit and start squeezing till you see a little bit start to push out inside of the car...When you see it, start moving around the glass till you run out...load next tube and repeat all the way around... Be careful not to fill the channel up all the way tho...you still got clips to install.
 
Next step...
Install clips... I use a 1x4 board with a bunch of tape wrapped around then end and ALWAYS try to have new clips on hand, prefer to have NOS Clips if possible...Pop all the clips in place now and go ahead and add more sealer all the way around. Your basically topping it off and paying a lil special attention to around the clips.... Keep in mind that you still have stainless to install and if you fill it up 2 much you will have a tough time getting it on.
If I recall the last one I did we left the sealer just even with the top of the weatherstrip... Now just go back and smooth it all down with a rubber gloved finger tip and clean up all your mess off the glass and the car...
Install Stainless 24hrs later and your good to go.
This stuff doesn't get hard like silicone or anything else so putting stainless on is easy.
 
This method has worked on multiple occasions for me and should work just fine for you as well.... Hope I didn't forget anything

After I bought some ill fitting front aluminium trim pieces, I tried my luck at pounding out the dents in the hood lip and C moldings. Like others who have done this,  I was amazed at the outcome. After checking polishing prices, and not wanting to destroy an original piece, I decided to go another route. 
I'd read online where a guy sanded his trim with Scotch-Brite pads and WD-40. I figured I'd give it a try, with worse case scenario having to get them polished. I liked the look of the finish, and the cost saving. Since my car is my daily driver, and far from original, I'm not too concerned about it not being "correct ".  Just an option I thought I'd throw out there. 

Hopefully Ridge will chime in, he has a great method that doesn't take long.  He did my back glass and it doesn't leak. I did my front glass, and well, ya, it has a leak, so...

I used a penny to scrape most of the adhesive off the back side of windshield trim, then used solvent to make it purty.  Anything softer than stainless or aluminum will work as a scraper and not leave marks.

For rear window install the following may be helpful after learning from my mistakes from misinformation on other forums: 
 

I found that the front glass was easier for me than the rear glass. I found too that it is easier with  a helper.

Ridge gave you good tips. My most important tips are, do not push the part to wheel too much and wear as much protection as you can. Be careful of how you hold the part and how you feed it to the pad and where you stand; if/when you get the part wrapped around the shaft/pad, those stainless parts can spin around like sharp swords.

Dont buff until you get down to the finest grit or it is a lot more work .
I bought a buffer from Harbor freight years ago and it still works great ,i just mounted it on a pole . The buff wheels and compounds i would get a the Turlock swap meet ,those bars are at least 15 years old and started out about 12 inches long ,white is stainless and green is a polish grit . Final phase is mothers mag polish for a very bright glow . 
Make sure to wrap the nut at the polish wheel with tape or you will soon find out why . 
Wear gloves and keep a tight grip on the metal or you will find it right between your eyes ,hold the metal to the wheel gently and mage sure there is no edge to grab ,it is best to buff length wise so it doesnt  grab and wrap your stainless around the shaft . 
The longest hammer is from EastWoods ,one is actually a tack hammer ,i keep them polished so they dont mark the metal when knocking out dings . These tiny hammers also work great for very fine body work !
Sometime this summer i have all the stainless for two 56 Ford Fairlanes to buff and that is not going to be a lot of fun!

As you are probably aware, the headlight and grill surround trim is aluminium. Mine had some sort of clear finish that I removed with oven cleaner. 

Rich, beautiful!   
I put 2 speakers in my convertible rear seat panels.  One in the old ashtray spot, and one down low by the seat.   Can't find the finished pic of my seat panel speakers, attached a couple work in progress pics.  
Modified the fresh air vent, sealed it and wrapped in with DynaMat.  I also moved my parking brake out about 1/2" a spacer. That was pretty easy.
Have a DIN 1 Boss Head unit that is mounted in the original dash location, a Rockford Fosgate 600 watt amp, and subwoofer to complete the system.
 
 

I used RetroSound RPOD4 Surface-mount pods for 4" or 4"x6" speakers. I place them as low and forward as I could, especially on the driverside to clear the parking brake pedal. I also brought my whole parking brake pedal mechanism out another 1/2" from the kick panel. The P.O. cut speaker holes in the interior quarter panels, so i was stuck with those holes or replace the panels. I found flush mounting speaker grills panted them to match  thw panels. I mount a pair of kickers in an aftermarket rear panel. Made brcket from 2"  box steel to mount the amp in the trunk drop area behi d the spare tire.



No speaker grills and no window cranks makes for a nice clean door panel.

Update. Since I couldn’t find what I was looking for I made these boxes and mounted them. The rear quarters already had holes cut in them so I will paint the grilles and put them back in. I couldn’t find the electrical info to know the correct size of box but I think this will work fine. If not they can always be ported at the bottom. I’ll post pics once the grilles are painted. They are 6 1/2” speakers. 
Rich

I have had good experience and results using this stuff on the stainless.  Brian

Get the buffer (items 61557, 94393), not the grinder; buffer has longer shafts and better suited for buffing. The headlight trim is tricky to polish as it is thin and odd shape; you have to be real real careful otherwise it will snag on the wheel and get damaged. You can sand the deeper scratches with high grit sand paper (1000 or higher) then polish. I start with a coarse compound (with dedicated buffing pad) then with a finer compound later (with dedicated buffing pad). You have to be careful when you are feeding the trim to pad and not to get it snagged. There is a learning curve but not difficult to do. I also polish the old/tired anodized aluminum trim (hood molding etc) which brings them a little shine but not shinny like the stainless.

Posting these pictures a bit late since the event took place in the beginning on June 2022. Wheels National is one of, if not the biggest car show in Sweden and consists of 4 shows in different parts of the country. The Wheels National Norr (North) takes place in my town. Last year was the first year after a two year hiatus due to covid, and sadly the the usual area was probably around 50% smaller compared to previous years because they built a new arena there. Because of this only cars older than 1980 (I think) was allowed entry last year. Usually whoever has an old or somewhat special car is allowed entry as long as there is room. One corner of the show usually have a couple of hot rods and a truck or three. The day ends with a cruise around the city center for a couple of hours.










 

Ed, that is a KH style 4 piston set up, not Granada. Original 69-70 cars have single piston calipers. That kit you used comes with the bracket for KH style calipers to attach to drum spindles (attached with the 4 bolts that go through the dust shield). I  used the same KH style kit on one of my 69s to convert from drum to disc. 
You can't install original 69-70 Mustang (and Granada) single calipers and caliper brackets on a drum spindle. Original 69 and 70 caliper brackets do not mount through dust shield mounting points like the KH style.
Here are some pictures of 1970 drum spindle, Here are some pictures of 1970 disc spindle (69 spindle similar with smaller diameter pin and smaller tie rod); you can see the extra holes on disc spindle (not the holes for dust shield) to install the 69-70 caliper bracket you can see here. 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!
First I want to thank everyone that took the time to help me solve this problem, I couldn't have done it without all of you.
What solved the problem was getting rotors (with races) for a 1970 Mustang vs. the 1969.
Both model years use the same inner and outer bearings and as such I did not have to re-replace them.
I did notice immediately that the inner bearing sat further down in the race, the outer bearing I believe did as well since I now have plenty of clearance for the cotter pin through the castle nut.
So the spindle numbers I have are obviously a 1970 model year that require a 1970 rotor with the corresponding races. RPM pointed this out.....D0ZA
As I mentioned early on the brake job that was done prior had the incorrect rotor, the shop must have taken something off the pads to allow the rotor to function.
I hope this helps someone else out in the future.
PK

These things are so small and fragile ,i already dropped one twice! 
Sprayed the texture ,it looks like it is best to spray a light coat and then a couple of heavier coats after the first dries ,it is really glossy until it dries then is about an egg shell finish. Some how i will have to glue them to a wood block to make a mold because they are so small .
These will set a few days so the paint can cure well ,my materials are on back order so it should work out perfect .

I agree with this. However, if you don't have any damages, you don't have a claim. When I got my contractor license, the most important thing to consider was water flow. And if you did something to divert it and cause damages, you were liable. You might want to talk to a lawyer, not the county. 
 

Hi Guys,
so, my euphory after my first engine parts shipment came only after a week since order (Rockauto) is gone. I received connecting rod bearings, cam bearings, oil pump, timing chain but the rest of delivery (with main bearings of course) got stuck at our famous customs to. Since December 12th  I have no respond from them what I should do to get the parts. My “Christmas” build is gone, so I spent Holidays with some unnecessary work. After I build my custom steering wheel, I finished battery relocation pan with circuit breaker and kill switch.

Love those Grabbers. I have a 69 and doing a lot of the same things you are. Paint and a 347 are next and I may add the grabber stripes on it.