Jump to content

det0326

Members
  • Content Count

    1,510
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

det0326 last won the day on September 18

det0326 had the most liked content!

About det0326

  • Rank
    69 RUSTBACK
  • Birthday 03/26/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Anderson. S.C.

Converted

  • Location
    South Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If u are running this ground plane for stock things such as lights, motors etc it is a great idea. I did on my car and eliminated the problems of things not being grounded sufficiently because of new paint and other reasons.
  2. It being a factory power steering I would think the steering box is probably ok since it gets minimum wear. My guess would be the stud ball and socket on the control valve. The steering box that came on my car had very little wear if any at all. Think I still have it somewhere. I pulled it and replaced with integral power box.
  3. Sorry bigmal I have seen some nice racks but I know nothing about steering racks so I can't help u there. Not sure if CPP or Borgenson makes a right hand drive box or not but it keeps all your steering geometry correct. If u ever tried one I believe u would like it.
  4. Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else. I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering.
  5. I have found a lot of times if the gauge is reading low it is usually a ground problem, that is if the sender is in proper working order. I always run a dedicated ground from where battery ground connects to engine block to the rear of car. Speaking of the Dakota gauges the VHX series that I used on the chev had a menu selection for different resistance ranges. I don't think they were close enough tho if the proper selection does not work that you could select another one higher or lower to help correct the situation.
  6. Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.
  7. Never used the sniper but I did use the FiTech, I was mostly pleased with it but the programing to fine tune it in can get confusing. As terry said above their tech help wasn't to good to start with but I think it may have improved some. If I was going to put efi on another car I would use Edelbrock's multiport. Used one on a non Mustang project and am well pleased with it. More expensive but I think it is well worth it.
  8. sorry for delay sister had some medical problems and been helping her out. Never had the engine on a dyno or anything but on paper it was around 400HP 351W FiTech EFI
  9. I used the US radiator with 2 rows of 1 1/4 tubes and dual electric fans. I was always impressed with how cool it ran with A/C running in SC heat. I sold the car to a guy in Bakersfield Cal. a few years ago and we have always talked back and forth and he too has made the same comment.
  10. I think u are correct. As Midlife said if u are using a different ignition circuit that eliminates the resistor wire you don't need stock sol. if your starter has one.
  11. Yes Terry, I believe u are right if it is a PMGM, that I would assume OP is using. The only way it would work as I described would be to jump the two terminals on the starter with a heavy duty diode. lol
  12. I have given this a little thought also. I don't see why u couldn't leave stock sol. connected as is and jump the little terminal to the big one on the starter and of course put the big wire from stock sol to the big terminal on starter as it should be. What this would do for u is all power would be off starter when ignition switch is in the run position just like stock wiring was. I did connect mine as u have drawn tho and never changed it but again I think it would work and safer too incase of a hot starter wire getting burned by a hot header.
  13. As aslanefe said we would need more information. If you have drums on rear or all four could be a shoe adjustment problem If you converted to power assist and didn't change the pedal that could be a problem. Need to confirm all parts are correct for power assist.
  14. GypsyR check your message box please
  15. U are making way to much out of this. Buy the neutral balanced 164 tooth flex plate that is advertised for the C4 Aod 4R and when u marry the transmission to the engine check the clearance as I posted above and u have no worries.
×
×
  • Create New...