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det0326 last won the day on May 14 2020

det0326 had the most liked content!

About det0326

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  • Birthday 03/26/1947

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    Anderson. S.C.


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    South Carolina

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  1. I had a set of those too. Can't put my hands on them right now tho. If I remember correctly they came with full floor pan that I purchased and i did not use them cause i did not have a fold down rear seat.
  2. I used tanks inc. tank and ran supply and return on the passenger side. The only reason I picked that side tho was I came through the rear fender apron on passenger side and wasn't has much stuff on that side to work around.
  3. I am sure u have seen this guy around the forum used to be on alot. He did an excellent job I think. If u PM him I bet he could throw some numbers at you. New Center Console - The Garage - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
  4. I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.
  5. been a long time since I did one but I seem to remember some spot welds along each side on the lower piece u can't get to unless the upper piece is off.
  6. Bob is correct if the two tie rod ends are of unequal lengths would cause a short turning radius on one side. This could have been done intentionally because of a lot of wear in the center location where these old manual boxes are worn.
  7. Any sheet metal that might have been replace on the drivers side with after market panels could cause this issue. Check the length of all the panels on that side with the other side to see if there are any differences. I had an after market door once that was too short. DreamCar is right that would be my first move is to measure the wheel base on both sides, if the drivers side comes up short because the caster is set negative then check panels.
  8. also if I remember correctly the cables have to go back in the same hole or the knob won't be in sync with the mirror. This is because the knob housing is clocked to go into door panel housing only one way.
  9. exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.
  10. u can get trans tailshaft angle also from crank pulley if u can get to it.
  11. need to find the degree of transmission tail shaft (should be pointed down about 4 degrees or so. Then the yoke on rear end should be pointed up minus 1 degree. Example trans down 5 degree the rear end yoke should be pointed up 4 degrees.
  12. I used a tanks inc tank in mine. I seem to remember instructions saying to cut the float arm to a specific length for a certain depth tank. Even tho i cut it to there spec's mine always seem to read high (opposite from yours).
  13. well I missed your age a little but I do have a son 54.
  14. Bob, I have a son that is probable close to your age.
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