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det0326 last won the day on September 18 2021

det0326 had the most liked content!

About det0326

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  • Birthday 03/26/1947

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    Anderson. S.C.


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    South Carolina

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  1. I did exactly what u described and made it look pretty, not necessary but just me being particular. Mine was a Dearborn car and it appeared to me that the assembly plant filled those 2 joints and also the 2 where the filler piece and quarters meet with brass/brazing rod.
  2. just another option is if u don't mind the look and changing water pump to reverse rotation u can use late 80s to early 90s f150 brackets. that will get u serpentine belt and all acc's will line up. If u have stock A/C u would have to change compressors too tho. That might be getting into a needless money pit
  3. been a long time since I worked on an FMX but isn't there a bushing in the pump housing that the rear boss on the TC rides in. I would surely be checking all bushings on front of transmission that the input shaft is associated with. If they did rule out the TC that is about the only thing left
  4. I could not remember about how many doors but I am sure that the drive shaft I got was from explorer with v8. it has been quite a while and I am old.
  5. I used a drive shaft from a 2 door v8 explorer(i believe it was) on my 69. It fit perfect on the length had to change the yoke to fit the AOD I put in it. Also Centered a 8.8 rear from the same explorer and installed on the mustang. I doubt the explorer shaft would be the right length for 69 or 70 with stock tran and rear end.
  6. The guy using dry ice, body hammer and chisel would not be my first choice.
  7. I purchased one that was a terrible fit. The profile wasn't right at all. It came from Kentucky Mustang but I don't think it matters because when there is a bad lot out there it seems everybody's are bad. A friend of mine checked several places and never found a good one. If Ridge has a good one I would be sweet talking him into selling it.
  8. I was thinking maybe choke hanging which means less air through carb hence flooding and gas smell. If you are smelling raw fuel tho then yes I would be looking for a leak some where.
  9. not sure if you have a mechanical or electric choke. could it be hanging?
  10. It has been a long time since I did mine but isn't there a pigtail on one of the headlights or maybe both that plugs into the main harness.
  11. The only tip I can give is that cable does go through the driver side torque box. I know the replacement torque box, for lack of a better word, has a tube that guides the cable through. My old torque box didn't so u might want to tie something to the old one before pulling it through. May help in getting the new cable through the TB.
  12. Appears that the insert is missing or at least part of it, I also had one missing on one of mine.
  13. If u are running this ground plane for stock things such as lights, motors etc it is a great idea. I did on my car and eliminated the problems of things not being grounded sufficiently because of new paint and other reasons.
  14. It being a factory power steering I would think the steering box is probably ok since it gets minimum wear. My guess would be the stud ball and socket on the control valve. The steering box that came on my car had very little wear if any at all. Think I still have it somewhere. I pulled it and replaced with integral power box.
  15. Sorry bigmal I have seen some nice racks but I know nothing about steering racks so I can't help u there. Not sure if CPP or Borgenson makes a right hand drive box or not but it keeps all your steering geometry correct. If u ever tried one I believe u would like it.
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