det0326

I am in the market for another 69 mach 1 project and have been watching prices a good bit lately. I didn't see anything in the ad that said Mach 1 so I assume it is a sportsroof. Yes that is way to high I have seen sportsroofs in the last few weeks in this condition or better for around 12 or 13k. I bided on a 69 R code on ebay a couple of weeks ago a lot of body work already done and was in primer it needed paint and assemble and the interior restored. Had the 428 C block but not the heads (not original to the car but was a 69 date code that had been machined and all new parts just needed to be assembled. The 9 inch track lock was completely rebuilt and painted. I didn't see this ad on ebay until it had only a few hours left, I bided 25k on it and had the high bid for 24k. By it being on ebay and site unseen I got cold feet and pulled my bid the last few seconds to go. The reserve had been meet to, so it was mine and I chicken out. Turns out everything was legit, I'm still kicking myself.

I wouldn't run engine and trans with the drive shaft out because the transmission tail shaft would not have any support with the yoke out. May not hurt a thing but it really wouldn't tell you munch with the transmission tail shaft wobbling.

Can't comment on the electric power assist but I did put an integral power assist on mine similar to the Borgeson. I liked it.

Sorry to hear that Bigmal. when u found play there I just knew u had found your problem. I do feel your pain. When you mention tail shaft I assume you are talking about the drive shaft. Is the drive shaft the original or did u have a new one made? The reason I ask is I have heard that some older drive shafts had rubber internally that sometimes broke loose and caused a vibration. Never experienced it myself just heard of other people having a problem with it. The only thing that could of upset the vibration to make it worse by removing the drive shaft is it can be mounted back to the pinion yoke 180 degrees from where it is now. I drought very seriously that's your problem tho.

My bad, I must have had my head up my rear that day. Could you not just grind a bit off the caliper where the rotor is rubbing or is it in a place where u can't. I would check the dia. of that rotor tho because if it is a little oversize that would be an easy fix.

What a deal I'll take two at that price.

Wondered why my laptop kelp wanting me to capitalize Clarence. Long story about that word, hahaha good catch Professor Bob

You say new rotor u mean new after upgrade or it is the upgraded one. Check the dia. of that rotor where it is rubbing, may be a little over size. If not u may have to Clearance the caliper where it is rubbing a bit. Calipers are a bit loose without any pressure applied.

I would get car up far enough to get under and make sure it can't roll and put in neutral so there is no pressure on driveshaft. Then see if you can move it around if not it is probably ok.

I have jacked rear of car up far enough that the rear of transmission is higher than the front and never lose but a few drops of fluid. There is a tool to do that but with right size tubes and etc u could do it with a press I am sure. Don't know about Australia but here some of our car parts stores has a tool loan program where u pay a deposit which u get back when the tool is returned.

If it is worn u should be able to physically move it up and down and side to side also. Not that difficult to change. Tail shaft housing would have to come off.

Is the 2 angles tilted in the same direction. Sorry for all the questions just trying to figure out if we are on the same page.

I suppose u have checked drive shaft yoke at the transmission for excessive clearance between yoke outside dia. and the bushing in the transmission.

So Bigmal If I understand correctly when u check front pulley (for simplicity let say it is 3 degrees) meaning the top of the pulley is set back toward the rear by 3 degrees. When u check front of pinion it is set turned up by 3 degrees. If your answer is yes then that should work fine. are u using wedge shims between the leaf spring and spring perch to change pinion angle.

Not quite sure what u mean by 0 degrees. If u put a inclinometer on the tailshaft of transmission or on the front pulley of the engine then what ever that angle is the pinion angle should be the same angle minus 1 in the opposite direction.