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About Casgar

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  1. I don't really think pounding on a person is the same as destroying windows of a car, but following the officers logic you should at least be able to destroy the windows on the car of the woman.
  2. I have leveled the car according to the drawing and have some data, but I might have to level it again since there is some confusion again regarding where to measure from. Metric reference My measurements The red numbers are mine. In case of two number at the same place the first one is always the left side, or front left to rear right in the case of cross measurements. Feels like most numbers are within acceptable margain. Some notes: - K is shorter because the rear hole is just ahead of the spring shackle bolt on my car. No hole further back as in the picture. 69/70 differences? - The radiator support to floor support hole is about the same distance on both sides. The measurements differ because the outer plate of the front frame rail sticks out 5mm more on the right side. - E and F is not measured since the front suspension is off. The right shock tower is bent at the UCA mounting holes. Rear hole is 15 mm out and front hole 10 mm out compared to the left shock tower. Anything else that you guys think is wrong/weird? When reading the description for B and C they seem pretty specific on exactly where to measure. "Side rail" should probably reference the front frame rail based on the wording in B and C, and not the floor support. Around the X in top view for X-6 there is 3 layers of metal. They are from top to bottom; front frame rail, floor support and torque box. I measured from the floor support metal, which is a couple of millimeters lower than the front rail, and with that A is too high and the 11 3/16" measurement at the rear is too low. Now, if I measure X-6 at the front frame rail metal the front will lower and rear will lift makin those two measurements closer to reference, and the floor support and rails will be closer to level, which they are not at the moment (pointing up at the front). The left frame rail is probably too high anyway since I had some weird gaps between the left fender and the cowl grill plate before I took the car apart. Did you see a visible bend in the frame rails? My front frame rails themself seems to be completely straight when following the seam with a lazer level (best new tool this year) from the radiator to the firewall. I also can't see anything obvious with the fire wall, and the floor was rotted before I removed it completely. The floor support is also level with the rockers.
  3. Would it be best to fix the frame when as much stuff as possible is removed from the car (floor, right shock tower, radiator support)? Also, is the X-6 in this from the bottom of the frame rail? If so I need to lift the front like 2", which doesn't make any sense. Or does "side rail" mean the outward flange on the top of the frame rail? If so then the drawing is somewhat missleading. Not having english as your first language is confusing sometimes.
  4. Judging from the pictures here it looks like the driver side had a slightly bigger crease than the passenger side? Did you notice any obvious damage to the firewall? My frame rails doesn't appera to be bent like yours, but twisted relative to one another. See below. The firewall doesn't appear to be dented from what I can tell. At least nothing as obvious as the cowl. I'm gonna measure the tilt tomorrow and compare the rails to the rockers. Should they be close to parallel horizontally? The car is supported in 6 points, just behind the radiator support, on the rocker flange at the rear part of the front torque boxes and on the flange at the rear torque boxes. The floor is removed completely and I'm in the process of manufacturing and fitting inner rockers. The car was put on supports before the floor and export brace was removed, so any twisting was already in the car since before. I did take some measurements this evening with a level 1600 mm water level on the floor, which should give a hint of the side to side twist. The numbers are in millimeters and is the distance between the level and the underside of different parts of the car. 10 mm = ~0.4 inch. The measurements are from top down as follow: Front frame rails - between shock tower and sway bar mount - far rear end of frame rail Note: The distance to the center of the firewall between these 2 measuremetns are approximately the same. Rocker panel - just outside of the frame rail measurements - front part of the rear torque box Rear frame rail - middle of rear torque box - rear spring mount bolt The front frame rails doesn't look to be damaged, but apperare to have twisted with the firewall as the pivot point. The right shock tower, battery apron and radiator support is to be replaced, which would make the right frame rail the easter rail to fix before welding everything together. I would have to level the car according to the thread aslanefe posted to know exactly which side is twisted and how much before comitting to anything though. The passenger compartmens also seems to be slightly twisted relative to the rear torque boxes. I guess this should be the first thing to try and get straight before putting in the floor and inner rockers? Adjusting this to be straight would make the difference between the front frame rails even bigger. The front measurement would be close to 421/415mm while the rear would be 168/170mm. It's late here now, but I'm gonna go and check tomorrow exactly where the pivot of the frame rails would be. If they are an equal distance to the pivot then it would mean that the left rail would have to be moved down at the pivot point, or the right rail up. Or maybe the differences starts to be within accceptable marginal? It first needs to be adjusted to the factory measurements though. The car has also been hit in the rear left corner which is evident in the less than stellar floor repair behind the tail light. The left rail has a slight bend downwards from around the front of the gas tank which might explain the difference in the rear. This might also be a good thing to fix first, just to be able to determine where the reference point for the rest should be. I think that covers every thought I had while staring at the car for an hour after the measurements. :) Thoughts?
  5. I'm soon going to remove the upper cowl to repair and prep the rusted, but still leak proof, lower cowl. The upper cowl have a crease in it on both sides, but more sever on the driver side. Is there anyone that have an idea of what might have happened here, and if there is something I should check before I remove it? As far as I can tell from measuring the frame is straight and sqaure, and the frame rails under the floor is level after the car has ben leveled to the rockers. My first through was that since the car had been in some kind of an accident in the front right corner some time in the past the whole front clip had pushed up and bent the cowl. The problem is that I can't find anyting other than the cowl to support that. No damages on the firewall or the inner fender closest to the firewall. The fender to cowl reinforcement plate in the picture seems to conform to the cowls crease perfectly too, and it's pretty thick compared to the rest so I have a hard time beliveing that it would bend. Is it just some dropped part from the factory that they decided to install anywa since it would most likely never be seen? Crappy picture, but you can se what I mean.
  6. I'm from Sweden, and since Sweden seems to be one of the few odd ones in all of this I thought I should share this.
  7. As exact as I can measure on my -69 Fastback with no floor. Also in metric millimeters (+/- 1 mm), just because. :)
  8. I don't really know how it's over in the US, but I don't really buy that all of the stock market loss is because of the media. I mean China closed many of the trade routes, and I don't think they really care what the US media is telling everyone. I also don't necessarily thing the total number of deaths is a good indicator of how severe a disease somethig is. The mortality rate, or deaths per infected is more interesting, and the speed of which it spreads. Since no one is vaccinated against it it can run free and spread at a exponentially higher rate than a normal flu. That means that the health care is in risk of running over its capacity, which can result in more deaths from the desease and indirectly result in worse care for everyone else. Covid-19 have a global mortalty rate at something like 3%, which is MUCH higher than a normal flu, but if you add a health care that is working on 200% locally that rate is significantly higher. Italy is a good example (in a bad way) with a mortality rate at 5% at the moment. Some of that also seems to be partially atributet do an overall high average age in the country too, but still. Though I agree that it's abit blown up, but severe nonetheless.
  9. Does anyone have measurements from the wheel/hub surface to the outside surface of the spindle, or wheel/hub to centerline of balljoints (y1 and/or y2 on this sketch)? Edit; To add a bit of information, I'm having a discussion with some people on another forum where we speculate about replacing the stock spindle with the Wilwood Pro Spindle to improve some characteristics of the stock suspension, mainly scrub radius. To make a fair and correct reference point we would need some measurements of the stock spindle. I have a pair of -69 spindle laying around but everyting is still attached to them, including the arms, and I don't have the tools right now to remove everyhing and take accurate measurements. So I thought I'd take the easy route and ask around because I can't find any reliable information on the dimentions of the stock spindle.
  10. I'm in similar thoughts, mostly in the gathering-of-information part so far though. From what I've read about the input shaft it seems the Viper is better than Ford, 26 vs 10 spline. Consider changing the clutch instead. The Viper T56 also has its shifter 1.4 inch more forward than the Cobra T56 (https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances), which would mean you'll have to expand the shifter hole, or move the engine back for it to be centered in the stock hole. The Cobra T56 shifter is already more forward than stock according to Buening's thoroughly T56 build thread (https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/the-t56-conversion-into-a-70-mach.613843/) which would make it even harder I assume. For those willing to import there is also the Cleveland/Windsor to GM T56/TR6060 bellhousing (https://www.rodshop.com.au/gm-t56-6-speed-transmission-to-ford-cleveland-and-carby-windsor-289-351.html).
  11. So no other treatment other than removing loose debris? Have you put it to the test? From what I'm reading it does sound promising.
  12. I have started to cut up the old floor on my 69 fastback since it was rusted through. Now that the floor is gone I can inspect the frame rails more thoroughly and beside surface rust, some minor dent from a jack and a wasp nest they seem to be in very good condition. The rails under the floor is easy to get to now that the floor is removed, but the engine bay, over the axle and in the trunk seems harder to reach and clean without cutting up good metal. It's a couple of years down the road, but I'm not planning on leaving the car in the garage just because it's raining a little. The big question now is what would be the best way to treat the rails on the inside? Should I also open up the rear torque box and treat it while the floor is out? The front torque box will probably be opened up anyway since I'm planning on installing vert inner rockers. A second smaller problem is in the left rail under the floor/firewall. The inner overlap from the engine bay rail have rusted, cracked and expanded upwards. Anything that should be adressed too?
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