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Casgar

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About Casgar

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  1. Wow, repair it is I guess. Most time consuming think would probably be around the A-pillar since there are so many creases in different directions. The passenger side is slightly better than the driver side that you see in the picture. And don't worry ,the windscreen is removed, though it cracked during removal so I have to replace it anway. :( Do you have an example on what to search for if I decide to go this route? Chemical metal?
  2. Whats the verdict for a newbie restorer like myself, repair or replace? The cowl didn't leak until I started removing rust. A new cowl assembly cost 535 USD if I buy from a Swedish supplier. I will buy a batch of stuff from the US soon, so I might get away a little cheaper if I also buy the cowl from overseas and ship everything together. Sorry for the crappy pictures, I need a new phone.
  3. I have watched a couple of their videos and found them interesting. Just be aware that there is some strong indications of scam going on too, which, at least for me, undermines the credability of his platform. One example; charging $3 000 for courses on how to build a profitable business when his one and only company has been in the red from the start, and at the same time asking $250 000/month to keep it running. Edit; I haven't watched the documentary though, so can't comment on that.
  4. I'm also very close to order suspension for both the front and back. I can share my experience. The main benefit for removing the shock towers is more room in the engine bay (duh) which would make you possible engine list longer, and easier if you want to build a turbo engine. Other than that there isn't really much difference in performance between a Mustang II-ish suspension setup and one that uses the stock pickup points, though everything is supposedly better than the stock suspension. That is if you want to trust the internet because I don't have any actual experience. Regarding the rear, the difference between a 4 link or a 3 link/torque arm as I understand it is that the 4 link is better in straight lines and worse in curves and the 3 link/torque arm is the opposite. Not to say that both can work decent in both areas. Here is some pretty good summaries of some regular types of suspensions for solid axles. Here in Sweden if I want to have the car road legal with suspension othern than the original setup I have to get it inspected during and after the actual build before I can get it approved and registered with the new suspension. The inspector that I've been talking to didn't really like my first suggestion of a 4 link because he said that the arms usually bind at the extremes where as a 3 link or torque arm is virtually bind free. He aslo said that a 4 link will want to steer the rear axle when the car goes through corners. If you turn to the left the rear axle also turns a slight to moderate amount to the left (or right, can't remember), which can make the car harder to handle. His suggestions was to try and keep the self steering in the rear to a minimum and to try and reduce scrub radius as much as possible in the front (that's another story). He has been working as an inspector for modified veicles since at least 2002.
  5. From what I've read the TKO 500/600 usually fit with little to no modification to the tunnel. If you step up to the 6 speed T56 you almost always need to modify the tunnel unless you drop the engine 0.5-1.0" with special engine mounts. That might add some other clearance problems though with headers among other things. I might add that I don't have any actual experience, just internet surfin'. Nice looking car btw. What steering wheel is that?
  6. From googling (since I don't have my originals close by) it apperas to be of 194 style bulbs. I'm way too far away from needing to install lights at the moment, but when I get closer I'll be sure to contact you, if not for the side markers then for everything else. I really like the reverse/turn light combo. Since every car from -76 onwards are required to have amber turn signals here in Sweden-land the Mustang is exempt from it, but because of that most people have a harder time reacting to red turn signals, myself included, so the amber ones seems really atractive.
  7. Any plans on making side markers lights for the -69 too? Or are they perhaps interchangable?
  8. I don't know what they are for, but I don't have them in mine at least
  9. I don't really think pounding on a person is the same as destroying windows of a car, but following the officers logic you should at least be able to destroy the windows on the car of the woman.
  10. I have leveled the car according to the drawing and have some data, but I might have to level it again since there is some confusion again regarding where to measure from. Metric reference My measurements The red numbers are mine. In case of two number at the same place the first one is always the left side, or front left to rear right in the case of cross measurements. Feels like most numbers are within acceptable margain. Some notes: - K is shorter because the rear hole is just ahead of the spring shackle bolt on my car. No hole further back as in the picture. 69/70 differences? - The radiator support to floor support hole is about the same distance on both sides. The measurements differ because the outer plate of the front frame rail sticks out 5mm more on the right side. - E and F is not measured since the front suspension is off. The right shock tower is bent at the UCA mounting holes. Rear hole is 15 mm out and front hole 10 mm out compared to the left shock tower. Anything else that you guys think is wrong/weird? When reading the description for B and C they seem pretty specific on exactly where to measure. "Side rail" should probably reference the front frame rail based on the wording in B and C, and not the floor support. Around the X in top view for X-6 there is 3 layers of metal. They are from top to bottom; front frame rail, floor support and torque box. I measured from the floor support metal, which is a couple of millimeters lower than the front rail, and with that A is too high and the 11 3/16" measurement at the rear is too low. Now, if I measure X-6 at the front frame rail metal the front will lower and rear will lift makin those two measurements closer to reference, and the floor support and rails will be closer to level, which they are not at the moment (pointing up at the front). The left frame rail is probably too high anyway since I had some weird gaps between the left fender and the cowl grill plate before I took the car apart. Did you see a visible bend in the frame rails? My front frame rails themself seems to be completely straight when following the seam with a lazer level (best new tool this year) from the radiator to the firewall. I also can't see anything obvious with the fire wall, and the floor was rotted before I removed it completely. The floor support is also level with the rockers.
  11. Would it be best to fix the frame when as much stuff as possible is removed from the car (floor, right shock tower, radiator support)? Also, is the X-6 in this from the bottom of the frame rail? If so I need to lift the front like 2", which doesn't make any sense. Or does "side rail" mean the outward flange on the top of the frame rail? If so then the drawing is somewhat missleading. Not having english as your first language is confusing sometimes.
  12. Judging from the pictures here it looks like the driver side had a slightly bigger crease than the passenger side? Did you notice any obvious damage to the firewall? My frame rails doesn't appera to be bent like yours, but twisted relative to one another. See below. The firewall doesn't appear to be dented from what I can tell. At least nothing as obvious as the cowl. I'm gonna measure the tilt tomorrow and compare the rails to the rockers. Should they be close to parallel horizontally? The car is supported in 6 points, just behind the radiator support, on the rocker flange at the rear part of the front torque boxes and on the flange at the rear torque boxes. The floor is removed completely and I'm in the process of manufacturing and fitting inner rockers. The car was put on supports before the floor and export brace was removed, so any twisting was already in the car since before. I did take some measurements this evening with a level 1600 mm water level on the floor, which should give a hint of the side to side twist. The numbers are in millimeters and is the distance between the level and the underside of different parts of the car. 10 mm = ~0.4 inch. The measurements are from top down as follow: Front frame rails - between shock tower and sway bar mount - far rear end of frame rail Note: The distance to the center of the firewall between these 2 measuremetns are approximately the same. Rocker panel - just outside of the frame rail measurements - front part of the rear torque box Rear frame rail - middle of rear torque box - rear spring mount bolt The front frame rails doesn't look to be damaged, but apperare to have twisted with the firewall as the pivot point. The right shock tower, battery apron and radiator support is to be replaced, which would make the right frame rail the easter rail to fix before welding everything together. I would have to level the car according to the thread aslanefe posted to know exactly which side is twisted and how much before comitting to anything though. The passenger compartmens also seems to be slightly twisted relative to the rear torque boxes. I guess this should be the first thing to try and get straight before putting in the floor and inner rockers? Adjusting this to be straight would make the difference between the front frame rails even bigger. The front measurement would be close to 421/415mm while the rear would be 168/170mm. It's late here now, but I'm gonna go and check tomorrow exactly where the pivot of the frame rails would be. If they are an equal distance to the pivot then it would mean that the left rail would have to be moved down at the pivot point, or the right rail up. Or maybe the differences starts to be within accceptable marginal? It first needs to be adjusted to the factory measurements though. The car has also been hit in the rear left corner which is evident in the less than stellar floor repair behind the tail light. The left rail has a slight bend downwards from around the front of the gas tank which might explain the difference in the rear. This might also be a good thing to fix first, just to be able to determine where the reference point for the rest should be. I think that covers every thought I had while staring at the car for an hour after the measurements. :) Thoughts?
  13. I'm soon going to remove the upper cowl to repair and prep the rusted, but still leak proof, lower cowl. The upper cowl have a crease in it on both sides, but more sever on the driver side. Is there anyone that have an idea of what might have happened here, and if there is something I should check before I remove it? As far as I can tell from measuring the frame is straight and sqaure, and the frame rails under the floor is level after the car has ben leveled to the rockers. My first through was that since the car had been in some kind of an accident in the front right corner some time in the past the whole front clip had pushed up and bent the cowl. The problem is that I can't find anyting other than the cowl to support that. No damages on the firewall or the inner fender closest to the firewall. The fender to cowl reinforcement plate in the picture seems to conform to the cowls crease perfectly too, and it's pretty thick compared to the rest so I have a hard time beliveing that it would bend. Is it just some dropped part from the factory that they decided to install anywa since it would most likely never be seen? Crappy picture, but you can se what I mean.
  14. I'm from Sweden, and since Sweden seems to be one of the few odd ones in all of this I thought I should share this.
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