mikee

Damn, that sounds good :) Thanks guys, I'll do it that way - anyway till I came home from work any of that cam was still on stock...

Hi Guys, just a quick question... Finally I found some cam on stock at rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/melling,24211,camshaft,5260 Its Melling 24211 Advertised Exhaust Duration 306 Advertised Intake Duration 300 Basic Operating RPM Range 3000 Cam Type Hydraulic Flat Tappet Computer Controlled Compatible No Exhaust Duration at .050 inch Lift 234 Exhaust Valve Lift 0.520" Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 1.600" Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift 224 Intake Valve Lift 0.497" Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 1.600" Lifter Type Hydraulic Lobe Separation 112 Can I use it for stock engine (I just matched intake and exhaust openings on stock heads to gasket size)? Thanks a lot for some reply

Thanks Bob, I drew it as I liked it (handle thickness, diameter, and wheel rise) and local shop cut it for me. Beech plywood, epoxy glue, stain and approx. 12 hours of work.

Hi Guys, so, my euphory after my first engine parts shipment came only after a week since order (Rockauto) is gone. I received connecting rod bearings, cam bearings, oil pump, timing chain but the rest of delivery (with main bearings of course) got stuck at our famous customs to. Since December 12th I have no respond from them what I should do to get the parts. My “Christmas” build is gone, so I spent Holidays with some unnecessary work. After I build my custom steering wheel, I finished battery relocation pan with circuit breaker and kill switch.

Hi Guys ... after a while (that felt like forever) So my lesson learned - never judge engine after removing one cylinder head :) After I took down the second one o found some scratches in cylinder 6 and suspicious spot in cylinder 7 that could be a crack. So my optimism was gone and I knew I have to disassembly whole endine. I made penetration test of cylinder 7 - and it came out that it was no crack. The biggest disappointment was then I realized that the engine is already 0.040 over. The bearings of connection rods were also destroyed as well as on crankshaft. I spent hours on net to browse 351w topics and videos, what are my possibilities. To bore it over to 4.060" is to risky, to sleeve it to expensive and to find some good block for reasonable price in europe is impossible. So I decided to just refresh the engine (hone the cylinders, re ring it and change all bearings, timing, cam, lifters and oil pump), put it together so I can finish the car. With finished hone I was able to get roundness and taper to factory specs, but my bore is up to 0,002 inch over the top limit. Anyway, no option at this time, at least the crank is 0,010 under so I can let it grind to 0,020 and balance. Im looking now for parts to order. Except piston rings and camshaft it should be no problem. Rings - I'm not sure if I buy 0,040 over rings the gap will be not too big (my worn rings make 0,026" gap). I'm thinking to buy 0,060s and grind them to size, but I don't know if the shape of rings is already different because of bigger diameter. Camshaft - I can't find some stock cam or some alternative in any shop (everywhere is only edelbrock performer + )

Hi everybody, I started the most exciting part of my restoration – engine. My goal is nothing extraordinary, just to have reliable engine around 300-350 hp. I'd like to buy some top end kit in the future, but I can’t find anything reasonable anywhere around right now. Last time the engine worked was 6 years ago. As I remember, smoke was no issue, and it did run … For condition check I made cold compression test, no additional cylinder lubrication, the max. pressure was achieved after 3-4 cranks. My readings were from approx. 168 to 180 psi – what I think is pretty good. Even condition of cylinder is not so bad – the crosshatch pattern is still noticeable, and I didn’t feel any step on top of the cylinder in end position area of first piston ring. On lifters is almost none wear visible. What’s your opinion please: Can I leave the rotation assembly as it is (crank, cam, pistons), or should I replace some parts anyway? I don’t know the condition of timing chain yet. At this point I’m thinking to just reseal whole engine (inc. frost plugs) and just slightly port heads (remove and open overhangs on openings edges) and leave it as it is. Anyway, I think my next upgrade will be just EFI for better cold start and smoother engine run, until I start something more serious with replacing for T5 transmission. Thanks for you suggestions...

Thanks Roger, id checked them, but prices are already on Lokar level :( but at least nice details inspiration

Just finished my light panel for rear fog, reverse and license plate light. Will be mounted in rear bumper notch and is all LED. After I saw YT video from AtotopiaLA with Mercury Comet crashing because of brake failure, I decided to converse emergency brake to floor mounted that I'm more used to. Nice Lokar kit is way to expensive, so I'm going cheaper way:

Hi, its cheap module from china - aliexpress / ebay: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001959116063.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.de4a6c95A4Bao3&algo_pvid=708336d1-c8a7-4a66-94c2-843a22a47662&algo_exp_id=708336d1-c8a7-4a66-94c2-843a22a47662-23&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000018229388578"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!EUR!1.07!0.52!!!!!%402101fd4b16643416386241279eb17b!12000018229388578!sea&curPageLogUid=0oWMrz2ziqul I tested it for a while and it did survive, but how long will it in light is still a question :)

Thanks Victor, sooo, my tranny is ready to install. I got lucky a found one „new“ upper strut for 70 and up FMX on ebay. The lower one was easy, so I made that one by myself. Adjusted according manual specs now waiting for installation.

Thanks Bob, thats nice saying :)

Short update... So, thanks Bob, Kens videos are great, and to work on transmission with them really fun! My front band had to be replaced / relined so I decided to buy a flexible band. Unfortunately, use of this type of band requires other strut (as for 1972-73 fmx), so I’m still not able to assembly the trany – waiting parts to come. Maybe it might help someone, so I’m posting a picture how I solved installation of direct drum piston. I used thin plastic flowerpot (cut flash at bottom ad left some rest above for pulling it out) to press the seal ring, inserted inside the drum and by constantly pressing on piston I slowly removed the pot strip. Till struts arrive I started to rebuild side louvres an rewire the car.

no Bob, i have to download it and watch. Thanks!

It was raining this weekend, so I started something new – rebuild of my FMX. I ordered master rebuild kit C9ZZ-7005-MK, output shaft bushing, output and pump seal. After disassembly I inspected bearings, seals and bands. Can someone confirm my finding and answer some questions, please? - front band should be replaced - Bearing on direct drum ich chipped - should be replaced - is the lip on Planet bushing normal or its wear? - is it normal that replacement flat seal for forward clutch piston is about 1/3 thinner than original? - Is he wear on inside bushings (last two pics) OK? Thanks for any answer / opinion, I’m trying to find some info on web, but except rebuild kits are even other bushing and parts hard to find

Broken heating housing repaired, and restored with new seals, finally all upholstery done and tadaaaaa. after 5 years back on own wheels!