mikee 51 Report post Posted January 24, 2019 Hallo Guys, After hours spent on this forum getting inspirations, searching for ideas and how to’s, I’m sharing my project too. Mustang was my childhood dream, and I finally got mine in 2013. I knew it wasn’t perfect, but it’s not easy to buy one for small budget in Europe and especially in here Slovakia because of complicated procedure to register car like this. I drove the car for 2 years, but I had no chance to pass the technical inspection in 2015, so I decided instead of only repairing – rebuild this car as it deserves. I started with disassembly in spring 2016 and over a year I had no time to move forward. Finally this autumn I finished work around the house and I’m in garage again. 2 Ridge Runner and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 346 Report post Posted January 24, 2019 Why did you fail the inspection in 2015? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 24, 2019 Technical condition of body, rear brakes, leakage from steering and transmision..... :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 24, 2019 Som pics from 2017 - disassembly... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 346 Report post Posted January 24, 2019 The picture of the torque box explains why it failed, good luck with the project. There used to be very good body/ metal workers in Europe; if they still exist you can have almost every body part made instead of trying to import them from the US. Getting the seals etc to stop the leaks should be cheaper as they are small and light. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 25, 2019 Thank you Aslanefe. Yes they still are around J. And as you wrote, seals and probably engine / transmission parts will be only that I import from US. Some pics of paint (bondo) stripping. At some spots this car was “sculptured” from putty. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 505 Report post Posted January 25, 2019 mikee, My 69 Coupe had a lot of putty around the rear wheel openings & across the front of the roof above the front windshield also like yours. Keep up the good work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 792 Report post Posted January 25, 2019 Hi Mikee…. Nice work on that fender. Keep it up... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 Thanks Guys, Some pics of torque boxes replacement. Boxes came with car (previous owner ordered them from NPD), frame rails I drew in CAD, and let them laser cut + bend. After epoxy welded in place... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 346 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 Your driver's side floor has been replaced, you can see the drain plug towards the seat pan. If I still had access to those European metal workers, I would have the correct ribbing made and get rid of the area with drain plug and match it to passenger side. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 Very impressive on the framerails. 2 mikee and RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 Yes, you right aslanefe. Driver side has been changed in full length. The passenger side only the rear half. The replacement job was done very badly, so I have to correct driver side. Problem is, that after sandblasting the original passengers pan came out unusable... Whole car (except straight flat surfaces) was blasted in booth with steel grit. Rest was done with small dustless sander. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 792 Report post Posted January 28, 2019 Nice fabrication work. 1 mikee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 29, 2019 After blasting I sprayed epoxy primer to seal the surface. In shock tower I spotted some weird sharp edge around one of spot welds. When car came back home I stripped this area and did penetration test to confirm my concerns. In total I found 1 crack on left and 2 cracks on right shock tower. So next step … shock tower reinforcement. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 346 Report post Posted January 29, 2019 5 hours ago, mikee said: After blasting I sprayed epoxy primer to seal the surface. In shock tower I spotted some weird sharp edge around one of spot welds. When car came back home I stripped this area and did penetration test to confirm my concerns. In total I found 1 crack on left and 2 cracks on right shock tower. So next step … shock tower reinforcement. Before you weld the shock tower reinforcements, measure between shock towers spread and alingn them if needed; most probably they are bent inside if there are cracks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted January 29, 2019 On 1/24/2019 at 7:54 AM, aslanefe said: The picture of the torque box explains why it failed, good luck with the project. There used to be very good body/ metal workers in Europe; if they still exist you can have almost every body part made instead of trying to import them from the US. Getting the seals etc to stop the leaks should be cheaper as they are small and light. This is typical of these cars in snow condition areas, thats why we call them Rustangs. This car must kill you with the cost of fuel there ! Either way, looks great. 1 mikee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 30, 2019 18 hours ago, aslanefe said: Before you weld the shock tower reinforcements, measure between shock towers spread and alingn them if needed; most probably they are bent inside if there are cracks. Ups, you scared me, one side was already done. I did as many measurement I could, but it seems to be nice parallel and equal on both sides. Thanks for your tip! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted January 30, 2019 16 hours ago, newstang said: This is typical of these cars in snow condition areas, thats why we call them Rustangs. This car must kill you with the cost of fuel there ! Either way, looks great. Thanks, Yeah its gonna be a weekend car :) fuel gallon price is around 5,9 USD right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 792 Report post Posted February 1, 2019 Mikee, nice work on the shock tower repairs. Mine were cracked also. You should probably drill the holes for the 1" lowering of the upper control arms while you are working in that area. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted February 1, 2019 Thanks Vic, yeah, I have to patch two rust / wear spots (battery holder area and hood hinge mount) and next will be a Shelby drop, and I should be ready with the engine bay this weekend. Next -flor pans... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 505 Report post Posted February 1, 2019 mikee, if the floor needs a lot of work I would go with the one piece floor pan. https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-full-floor-1-piece-coupe-fastback-1969-1970/p/3648D/ The one piece floor pan was not being reproduced when I purchased the sheet metal floor pieces to fix the floor in my 69 Coupe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 200 Report post Posted February 4, 2019 Great fabrication. I am enjoying your progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikee 51 Report post Posted February 4, 2019 Thanks Ed, Mike 65, I found Czech company that sells vintage Mustang part in Prague and requested floor pan, so I’m looking forward to get answer. My progress is gonna slow down little bit, I need to finish my air system – need to build air dryer to be able spray at home. I´m finally done with engine bay welding and could try out my body filler on battery holder area. Marking for Shelby drop is done, but I didn’t find the right drill bit size at home so I have to buy one. Started to fabricate subframe connectors... 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 346 Report post Posted February 4, 2019 For the UCA drop, I think I used 1/2 inch drill bit and filed the holes with round file for a few seconds instead of buying the 17/32 or whatever the drill bit people buy. If you have 12 or 13 mm bit, use them and file if needed. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 200 Report post Posted February 5, 2019 Yeah, It is an uncommon bit size. Having recently done this I recommend drilling a pilot hole and then widening it with a stepped bit. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about: Then finish with the specialty size bit that is specified. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
