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Everything posted by TexasEd

  1. Interested in this. I have a C4 so I’m guessing it is more complicated
  2. Did some interior work today. Touch up on original parts. I have new seat covers and door panels on the way.
  3. I have a stock 302 now. I may go to a 331 in the next year with an AOD. These will work with that. Don't see the need for long tube and clearance issues. I know these have worked in many applications and I did not want a hassle. Wheels and tires are: Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear You can see it here:
  4. Just took off my door panel on driver side. This is what I saw inside. It looks like there was some sound proofing sprayed in and a piece chipped off and revealed rust. Is this correct. How bad do you think this is?
  5. Fitment was great. I had to pass the drivers side up from under the car because of the brake booster being in the way and you have to tighten spark plugs 7&8 with a wrench attached to the spark plug socket but other than that it was easy.
  6. New plugs and headers installed. Now to get to the muffler shop.
  7. I got my old exhaust manifolds off. They were leaking and I thought the passenger side was cracked until I got them off. Turns out that the collector gasket was bad. No matter. Going to install the DBA shorties.
  8. Working on the old exhaust manifold bolts and the driver's side came loose with a little elbow grease. The bolts on the passenger side are loose but the three studs (2 in front and 1 in back) are, shocker, stuck. I don't want to remove the engine so I am going to try and heat the manifold with a torch and see if that will free the bolt. I'll have one of my kids standing by with the extinguisher.
  9. I'll be pulling mine off because the right side leaks. I don't know where until I get them off. Ping me if you still need a left one.
  10. Good Luck, but this cements my decision to say with my fixed seat.
  11. Some of my best part finds have been on this forum including a rear quarter extension and the bracket for power steering cables.
  12. I have been dealing with a cracked 2 spoke Dark Red steering wheel for a long time. Been thinking about the replacement options and all the aftermarket ones and then I found a generic ebay seller that must have gotten one from an estate sale or consignment and it was listed $40-60 cheaper than from a retail store. The Dark Red ones were also harder to find in general. No more worrying about the aftermarket ones and another part on my car stays original looking! List the great finds or hard to find items you needed that you finally got or something at a great price.
  13. Very sharp looking. It's come a long way.
  14. The plastic looking hatch in the trunk. I would love to get your dimensions or plan for the trunk pieces. That is a work of art.
  15. I don't think I ever posted in this thread. Wheels and Tires: Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear Suspension Mods Sourced from Opentrackerracing : 1" UCA drop, 560 1" drop coil springs, 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators, 1 1/8" front sway bar kit, Roller spring perches, Standard Upper arms, Standard Lower arms, New Strut rod bushings, KYB Front shocks, Grab-A-Track rear shocks, 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit
  16. Call John at OpenTracker https://opentrackerracing.com/ You might want to go with roller spring perches for the lower control arms and they come with the new pads. I think it makes a big difference. Also if you have not already done it do the upper control arm drop. (Shelby Drop) John supplied 1/4" Poly spring cushions for mine. Here is a link to my build thread starting at the suspension:
  17. I've found you have to finish with a manual bleed because you will see bubbles in the bleeder hose from air getting in from the bleeder threads or from a hose leak on the connection to the bleeder. Maybe my vacuum pressure was too high but it was a lesson learned and a container of brake fluid wasted.
  18. Should be direct fit for my stock 302. I don't have them in hand yet (shipping from NPD) but the plan is to get them installed and take it up to a muffler shop and tie it into my existing exhaust. If it is too loud with the combo of the new headers and old mufflers then I'll look around. A friend has Dynomax Superturbos on his 65 with an 80s 5.0L conversion. I like the sound of that car, rumbles but not deafening. I need to figure out the gasket situation. I've seen conflicting info to go with no gasket, get a thick paper gasket, or go with a copper/aluminum. Advise?
  19. So far so good with the new radiator. I would endorse both the radiator and the clutch fan. Just note that the shroud takes some trimming to fit. Drove it on a warm 70 degree day an hour to an air show/car show and temps were steady. I think I could get it cooler with a lower temp thermostat but my car seems to like what I have now. I should get an infrared thermometer to see what temp I am really running.
  20. Pretty excited to get these new headers in https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 I've been driving around with an exhaust leak at the manifolds for a couple years and my daughters do not appreciate smelling like exhaust. Big $ purchase but excited to get them in and get rid of the exhaust smell in the interior.
  21. I think that's how many it takes to get the driver side control arms and spring off.
  22. nice tip on using the tape to help make sure you are placing it in the right place.
  23. Same but how would it work with a 3.50 rear
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