TexasEd

Mine are installed and look great. I found paint prep was really important so be thorough there. Keep them separated to avoid excessive overspray.

My body shop used All Metal filler. It's like a putty but with a metallic texture and is close to lead.

I also have the Scott Drake ones manufactured by Seatbelt Solutions. I did a video of the install and it came out good. I like them. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCeaaECx_vw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

ok, I'll take the door card off and see if I can figure that out, but I tried to do it in general before I put it together and could not figure it out. Thanks

I tried loosening the quarter glass at the top but did not do the bottom.. You know I did remove the quarter glass and reinstall it between when it fit and did not fit. You might be right

very clear description. I think I did this when I glued it but I also had the marks from the original glue spots.

My Passenger side door and window are about as good as you can get. I thought I had my driver side glass in good shape but now it has a gap at the top front where the curve goes horizontal and the metal gasket holder on the back now hits the rear vent window metal to metal when fully up.. I've reglued the glass a while ago. It seem like if I could shift it forward in the tracks it would work better. I don't think there is a way to adjust the glass forward and if it is glued in too far back I need to remove it and reglue it in a quarter inch further forward. Any experience on this? One of my least favorite things and no, not interested in swapping to bolt in.

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I have some pictures to share. Let me see if I can host them somewhere I can link.

@Sulphur2 Here is a post with a lot of the pictures of my interior. The seat back and the steering wheel are in there too. Anything else you need I can take special for you. https://www.instagram.com/p/DFA1hLjxKE9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I wish I could help but I have the standard interior low back seats with headrests. I do have Dark Red though and just wanted to say I love the color. Mine were done with TMI upholstery with the additional bolstering and I added one of the full length center consoles. I have the imitation stitching on the back panels and it looks good. I don't know if you're going for what looks best or originality but I'd say it looks good. My instagram has pictures and video but it does not do it justice on how well it came out. No pictures of that panel. I could send you one, https://www.instagram.com/p/DEpcCn6RAgz/ If you need an original style dark red 2 spoke steering wheel I also have one of those for sale. It's a repro with no cracks in the handle. I don't have the horn ring though. I notice you're in AUS. If you wanted it I could collect the parts you need and send it all as one order.

So I pulled the firewall harness off today. I'll post pictures on the other site. I had one pin that was low. I think it was for the brake warning light that I've never seen come on or not sure I have one. One of the pins for the LH Front turn signal was not in the connector at all, the pin did not go through the plug. Got it hooked back up also figured out I had some wiring wrong with the hood scoop harness. Everything works now.

OK, that's what I thought you meant. Before I disconnect the square connector from the fuse box I'm going to try continuity from the flasher module to the plugs at the front of the car. I can use the tail lights to see if I'm correct. But at this point I'm already 90% sure I have a problem in that firewall plug to fuse box. Need to just bite the bullet just reluctant because everything else works and so many pins go through it.

What do you mean by this? Take the plug off and to a test from the block to the end connector? Or is this something about testing from the wiring at the blinker controller to the end without unplugging. Sorry if it’s supposed to be obvious.

Thanks, Randy. I did that a few times. I tested the harness with volt meter and the hazards on and no voltage at the hood blinkers or valance blinkers. I had a front end accident in about 1990 and I think the lower blinkers was replaced. Both are in sad shape so maybe I’ll get repros. I’m somewhat resigned to needing to disconnect the block at the firewall and check all the pins but not excited about it. How long is the turn around for a harness rebuild?

I've put my car back together. The hood scoop and front valance blinkers do not work. They have a good ground but not getting any voltage to the harness when the blinkers are on. I had the engine bay harness out and re-installed (Disconnected at the firewall). My dash blinkers work and the rear blinkers work. Ignition, engine temp, marker lights, headlights, etc all work. Thoughts are that somehow two pins in the square firewall block could have a problem, the think that bothers me is why just those two? Any other troubleshooting tips? @Midlife do you have thoughts? Secondary problem is that my driver side valance blinker is a 69 with 3 wires and the passenger side is a replacement 70 with 2 wires. I'll probably need to replace it. I don't think it will work correctly even if the voltage was getting the the three wire plug.

My car went through a lot of changes. Went from bare metal tp painted and assembled and a new engine. I have some more work to do but here is a video timeline. Brian I hope you don't mind me posting here instead of making a new thread. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DD4shB4R1_Q/

You can also use vinyl decals with a carbon fiber, brushed aluminum or other finish of your choice.

Can you share where you got the vinyl or brand/manufacturer? I painted mine and had to use latex house paint to get a texture.

I can measure it but your best bet to make one is to use cardboard to make a template. I'd bet you can make a better one out of Masonite than the dense card stock available in reproduction.

They fit on my car with original steering box but it was tight until we had the transmission attached and cross member in to get the engine angle correct. Before that the engine was sagging in the rear and pulling it too close to the steering. Do you have an export brace in your car?

This is why I went with JBA shorty headers on my 351W build. I have factory power steering, cable clutch and power brakes.

I bent the tabs open and disassembled the parts in the way of adding the spring. Been fine for several years now bought an assortment of springs and found the right size

I have standard interior so no carpet on the inside of the door. Anything bolted would have to be behind the door panel or from the bottom

I've had the actuators laying around for a while and just bought a relay and remote set to activate them. My question is how did you mount the poppers? So far thinking about doing an L bracket in the bottom of the door to hold the popper vertical under the latch. @vicfig I think you did this?