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TexasEd

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Everything posted by TexasEd

  1. Yep 8" vs 8.8" . they are not the same differential.
  2. The panel was not tightened down during that, I was test fitting it. Yes, I am missing the screw. It looks better with the panel screwed down, the bottom is still a mess. Anyone have a pic showing how it fits under the sill plate?
  3. Don't dim. https://www.customcarlight.com/ford/mp-6970-led-ga-xp-aqua-69-70-kit-mustang-gauge-led-lamps/ If I was doing it again I think I would get blue instead of Aqua.
  4. No I was talking about the ground screw. I just wanted to make sure it was not wired to the chassis for ground. My gauges get good ground from the top two mounting screws. I think the plastic parts disintegrated from age. I did not replace them.
  5. All gauges working Gas gauge shows a third with half a tank. I tried to adjust the sender before I put it back in guess I’ll live with it.
  6. @Midlife here is what I did. After this there was no more short on the other gauges so I left them alone. the second picture is of the ground between the circuit and the housing. No wire goes there, correct?
  7. Thanks, I was careful about getting the carboard insulation in what looked like the right place but I did not check continuity/resistance between that and ground. Pulling the gauges is a pain in the ass.
  8. I recently replaced my dash lamps with LED, new circuit board and new voltage regulator. Gauges worked before. LEDs work - does that mean I have a good ground for everything else? Gauges do not work - Is this most likely new voltage regulator. Thinking of taking it out and putting old one back in. Thoughts?
  9. I've got all the mechanical and electrical buttoned up (I think) Going to get some gas and bring it back to fill it up and start it. :)
  10. I had rotator cup shoulder surgery last year after I was unable to sleep through the night because of pain. After physical therapy and all I'm back at it. New carpet, new seat covers, painted new package tray, LED dash lights and refurbished instruments, Bluetooth radio and installed a Classic Auto Air perfect fit AC system. I had big plans to do an install video on the AC but now I have all this video I need to edit and don't feel like it.
  11. Figured out it is on the correct side but the flat flap goes under the fiberglass. Does this look correct?
  12. Need confirmation that I have this upside down and wrong side. When I close the door it pushes the windlace off the body panel. Anyone got a photo of it properly installed? My old ones were so bad I did not get a good idea.
  13. More interior work. I trimmed the rear carpet installed the rear fiberglass panels, got a custom color paint for the package tray and installed the rear seats.
  14. New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters.
  15. I had an exhaust leak at the manifolds (bad collector connection) so I used the opportunity to add JBA Shorty Headers. I have the original 302W and no drone
  16. I've done one side of my glue-in glass repair and the other side is almost done. I did not get the applicator so I wasted some and had to get a second tube. I had a shop put in all new exhaust front to back with Dynomax Super Turbo 17733, cross pipe and curved turn downs behind the valance. I love the sound.
  17. My interior is dark red. the package tray matched the interior color until it faded. I have a new one and will paint it to match the interior.
  18. Through the firewall. I had the heater box out and that made it relatively easy. I actually installed a heavy gauge amplifier wire to the battery and to a junction box mounted to the right of the glove box. I then used a relay with the original radio wire as the trigger.
  19. Here you can see wher I put it above the original radio and under where the AC vent goes.
  20. It works great. I don't have my car back together because I decided to get it painted while it was already torn apart. I have this radio/amp imstalled and it does what I expected. I mocked up the speakers to test it and it sounds really good. I will probably have my antenna deleted and I already installed the original AM radio in the factory location. I only hooked up the light that comes on when dash lights are on.
  21. Does it matter? At least in my case the front fenders and hood will be painted off the car so doing the engine bay first would not matter.
  22. I was going to post the same stuff the majority already said. Dan at Chockostang.com Stay manual with upgraded parts is the simplest, economical, and happy path If you go power assist Dan can help with that too. He set me up for my factory PS car. I also have the roller idler arm. It drives better than new with the new bushings, UCA drop, roller spring perches and modern alignment for radial tires. Borgeson, Flaming River, Rack and Pinion/Mustang II all add cost and complexity.
  23. I like the idea of using actuators connected to a remote. No need to add a switch inside the car, just want something to make it easier to lock and unlock.
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