TexasEd

I already bought the transmission. The gears are: 3.35, 1.93, 1.26, 1, .068 I have 26" Diameter tires The engine will easily spin up to 6000 RPM in aggressive driving if I put in 5500 rpm shift points this is what it looks like with 3.8 gears For more moderate driving I did the math and these are my speeds at 3,000 RPMs in each gear The different between 3.55 and 3.8 is 1.3 MPH in first but in 5th cruising at 70 MPH is 2184 RPM with 3.55 and 2338 with 3.8 gears. Fifth is not usable at 3.55 until about 65 MPH (2000 RPM) but with 3.8 2000 RPM is 60mph. I think the 3.8 is the best balance of high and low. 3000 RPM Speeds 3.55 3.8 Difference 1st 19.52 18.24 -1.28 2nd 33.88 31.63 -2.25 3rd 51.9 48.48 -3.42 4th 65.39 61.09 -4.3 5th 96.17 89.94 -6.23

What do you know about the headers?

It has a 3.35 first and .63 overdrive gear which is why I’m going with the 3.80 rear. The transmission is already bought but not the new 3rd member. I was told the 2.95 first gears were in the v6 cars.

I have an 8” and planning to go with 3.80 gears

@JayEstes Love the GT style stripe. Beautiful car.

A couple questions to clear up my assumptions: Are all the fastback rear seat panels the same for fold down and non-fold down? I think so. Are they the same for 69/70? Are the coupe's and convertibles different?

I'd love to see the white upholstery

Yes, doing the modern drive line conversion. Pretty excited to make the car faster than my 2013 F150 twin turbo truck.

So I never posted it in this thread but it was at that point that I was taking it to get the AC system charged and it backed into a tree damaging the passenger door, front fender and ripping the side mirror off. I couldn't even look at the car for a few weeks. I took it to a couple shows with the dents and then I got in touch with a new body shop since the one I was waiting on was taking forever and it ihas been at that shop since Feb 2023. The engine was pulled and inspected and found to not be the original 302 block so I sold it and the transmission. Will be installing a built T5 and the plan is to build a roller 351W with stock bottom end and new intake, headers and carb. I already have the carb.

@AusTex70 I saw this post and I live off Anderson Mill in Cedar Park. If you want to get together, drink a beer or work on stuff let me know. My 69 is in the paint shop for a while. I've taken about every part off it and put them all back on so I could help with your reassembly.

You need to look at all the steering and suspension components together. Play in suspension leads to steering problems. Idler arm center links Control arms ball joints sway bar bushings strut rod bushings steering box adjustment rebuilding the steering control valve and power ram and on. I did all of that stuff at once, lowered the UCA and stiffer springs. I loved the results. Then I wore out my strut rod bushings again and it is less precise.

Lol, I was coming here to share that when I had this problem it turned out that one of my door switches was bad. It was like the door was always open.

You need to tell me if that progressive ignition distributor is worth the money or not. Considering one. Which intake is that?

yes, this makes sense. 69 has concave panel but it is flat where the fill tube goes in. 70 has a flat panel.

I think you can probably make anything fit. It looks like that one will need a lot of extra holes drilled.

Here are some before I took it apart. I don’t know if it’s perfect

Hope Ridge is ok this time around

My build list has a Quick Fuel Brawler on the list. 650 is what I was looking at for the 351W. Glad you like it.

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

Thanks, I see a facebook add for one out of a 67-70 Mustang in Dallas. I think they want to much for it, only 28 spline and open diff. I may try to negotiate it down. I'd have to make a trip to get it.

Thanks, this is what I need because a lot of the ones I see list different things. Some with axles some without, etc. I would like to avoid modifying the axle width so I will focus on that 55 3/4" tube end to tube end. If they have the right spring perches then I'll take that as a bonus.

If I had my car now I'd measure my 8" rear to get the info but it is in the shop. What is the width of: Drum face to drum face? End of Tube to End of Tube? Outer edge of spring pads? Spring pads are supposed to be on the bottom, right? If you get a truck one they will be on top and have to be moved, correct?

I'm thinking of getting one of these. I saw a youtube video on it I think they did the install like you did but then generated a timing map before they started it. Here is a guy who had a failed install and figured out he did not have 12V to the distributor.