TexasEd

Resurrection Alert!!
Doing some research on possible future upgrades to my 351c and came across this thread. Would love to know what the OP ended up doing.

I had same problem, Took saddles out and used rubber inner tube to insulate lower rad and opened up mounting holes to scure rad sides.
it dropped shroud down enough to center it. Something to look into.

I had the same problem even after changing the motor mounts.  Had to keep playing with the adjustment of the fan shroud.  Would be interested in others' solutions.

All the parts are in from WCCC and the car is backed into the garage to get started on this project.  I'll keep you updated here.
 
 

to answer your first question: 
my current 392w stroker had a "street fighter" c4 from performance automatic with a 2500 stall convertor and I had stock open 3:00 diff, it was a good platform and nothing ever broke as I was on street tires. I would definitely look into performance automatic if you decided to stay with the c4 or you can buy their 4spd auto. I decided to go manual as that was the original goal, so I went with a TKO0600 and went with a trutrac ford 9 w/3:50 gears. I was able to put down 360rwhp and 400rwtq after dyno and tune.
if there was a 5-6 speed auto that could fit with no cutting/mods I would have gone this route.
For the 302/351w:
both 302//351w are great platforms, though the power you are wanting to make, I think the 331 should be easy build, but the 302 block has limitations if you are trying to achieve max power, thats when the 351w comes in to play, they can take up to 600hp no problem. 
price is roughly the same with both engines, with a 351w you are limited to intake options, if you stay with the stock hood, I wanted the edelbrock airgap but I read there was clearance issues with the stock hood and some ppl recommended going with a cowl hood. I went with the weiand stealth intake instead, to keep my stock hood and I make good power overall.
the 302's are easier to work on, they are smaller and no clearance issues, 
351w are somewhat wider and taller and can get tight under the hood if you go with big heads and headers, servicing the 351w can be tiresome, which is why some ppl tend to stay with a 302 but 351w can take more power. 
of course, these opinions can be eliminated if you went with a dart block, then I suggest going with the 331. 
 

if you want a super high revving engine, then build a 331, if you want monster low end and mid range power then build a 351 in to anything from a 393 to a 410.
9" as mentioned for the rear end.
 
 

sub 11 could be done with both motor combos.
roll cage not needed but a 5 point bar minimum. I would suggest swing out on the drivers side..
ran a pump gas 393 and it put print out 11.15 slips all day..

I started with a 70 sports roof with c4 and 2bbl 302. I currently has a T5, 8 inch rear (3.89), and a 351w roller block that is about 430hp/430tq (thread is below on engine build). I have lowering engine mounts and a drop base air cleaner, but have proper clearance for my rpm air gap intake manifold. FWIW, I have been driving it this way for years and the T5 and 8 inch rear end have not exploded. I would do it again. Plenty of power now and room for more if i want to make it a stroker later on. 
 

Seems like I've seen this thread before somewhere. But anyway..
When people say they want a bunch of power and there's a choice between a smaller engine and a bigger one, the answer is the bigger one. Pretty much just that simple.
Getting around 400 HP from a 351W isn't too hard. Stroke it for more. 
8 inch rears rule of thumb are good up to 400 HP or so if there's no drag racing with slicks. Sounds like you'll need a 9.
The "sub 11 second" thing kind of throws this. Such times aren't that easy to achieve. Plus if you do, they're going to say you have to have a roll cage if you plan to keep going to the track. Have a plan for that? 
An alternative to all this is to just hotrod the engine and car how you want to with an eye towards improving it's performance. If you forget about focusing on some arbitrary blue sky numbers the whole thing is a LOT more enjoyable. On the other hand, if you intend to use the car for competition then of course you need a thought out plan with realistic goals.

I'm also very close to order suspension for both the front and back. I can share my experience.
The main benefit for removing the shock towers is more room in the engine bay (duh) which would make you possible engine list longer, and easier if you want to build a turbo engine. Other than that there isn't really much difference in performance between a Mustang II-ish suspension setup and one that uses the stock pickup points, though everything is supposedly better than the stock suspension. That is if you want to trust the internet because I don't have any actual experience.
Regarding the rear, the difference between a 4 link or a 3 link/torque arm as I understand it is that the 4 link is better in straight lines and worse in curves and the 3 link/torque arm is the opposite. Not to say that both can work decent in both areas. Here is some pretty good summaries of some regular types of suspensions for solid axles.
Here in Sweden if I want to have the car road legal with suspension othern than the original setup I have to get it inspected during and after the actual build before I can get it approved and registered with the new suspension. The inspector that I've been talking to didn't really like my first suggestion of a 4 link because he said that the arms usually bind at the extremes where as a 3 link or torque arm is virtually bind free. He aslo said that a 4 link will want to steer the rear axle when the car goes through corners. If you turn to the left the rear axle also turns a slight to moderate amount to the left (or right, can't remember), which can make the car harder to handle. His suggestions was to try and keep the self steering in the rear to a minimum and to try and reduce scrub radius as much as possible in the front (that's another story). He has been working as an inspector for modified veicles since at least 2002.

I like the water line going past the choke.  Does that heat up the choke if the car is hot but has been sitting?  

Radiator Update:
Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC.  It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup.  I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/16324-Cooling-System-Upgrade-Complete-Kit-Repro-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-clone.html
 
Still thinking about the headers.

Radiator Update:
Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC.  It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup.  I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/16324-Cooling-System-Upgrade-Complete-Kit-Repro-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-clone.html
 
Still thinking about the headers.

10.30s in good weather...might have to go on a diet...still has full interior..10.5 in the heat...Texas style heat

It's been years since I did mine but I'll throw my 2cts in on the off chance it may help. I'm not sure of the size but I did order the larger radiator when I did my stroker build. I would see my temp gauge climb when I was stopped in traffic during hot summer day and had to do something about it. I got with my engine builder on it and the end result is we replaced the stock fan and spaced it where it would be located in the shroud better to promote pulling air through the radiator. I haven't had any issues with cooling since. That new fan blade moves a ton more air than the original. With the hood open and doing a rev it will about blow your hat off. It is a stock Ford flex fan, not one of those aftermarket ones that like to come apart. I just removed it yesterday in preperation for pulling my engine and googled the P/N. A link is below, there are some used ones on Ebay as well. It still kind of looks original which I like.
I went with FPA long tube headers and like them pretty well. At the time they were one of the best options for a long tube that tucked up pretty well.
 
http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1973-1985-ford-truck-bronco-f-100-302-351-5-blade-engine-cooling-fan-cf-d7ua-8600-adj/

My Mach is a 351w with factory AC so it came with the 24" radiator. The compressor still works to this day, but it vibrates a fair amount and bogs the engine down at idle. I've considered a Saden, but I really want the look of the original.This video from WCCC on cooling may interest you: 
 

For the radiator, I just bought one from CJ Pony parts.  It looks very much like the one you found, but about $200 cheaper.  Sometimes you pay for what you get, and the one you found could be a much higher quality product, but how would we know?
For the AC, if you are going to go to all the trouble of a new system, I suggest the original Ford factory installed one.  You can find the parts, but it is a huge task to install it all.  In the long run, I think you will be happier with the clean look of it.
For the heater hose, you do not need it connected at all.  Mine has been disconnected for years. 

Made my own console, just got back from upholstery shop. Started with cardboard, then 1/8" handy panel, followed by final product made out of birch plywood. Looking forward to installing it. The angled piece at the front is for the vintage air controls which ties it nicely to the under dash.

I looked it up and apparently you can.  Looking into it now.  I'll be redoing paint and interior in the next 3-6 months and want to get everything lined up to have it done as quickly as possible.
 

Unless acc has changed something, their mass backed carpet is no denser than their standard crap carpet. It merely has a stronger backing on it. The best carpet was made by Distinctive Industries, but unfortunately they stopped making carpet so you are stuck with the crappy acc carpet.
 
 

SM69Mach, you sure have a purdy car.
 
Here is mine
What’s been done:
frame off resto new interior 16x8 Vintage Wheel works V45s  4 wheel wilwood disk brakes with a MPB booster rebuilt engine with roller cam and ported Eddy RPM Performers and Air Gap (360 hp at the wheels) Magnaflow 2.5” exhaust with X pipe rebuilt C6 tranny with performance parts, “rollerized” needle bearings where possible, upgraded clutches, etc  TCP manual rack and pinion Complete Global West Cat. 5 suspension Holly 4bbl carb that was sent to Jet Performance for a stage 3 conversion Reen Machine Halogen lights billet front grill currie 9” rear 3.73 gears detroit locker What’s to come next
EPAS electric power steering ABS electric power brakes 408 stroker  Digital guarddawg push button starter  

I vision finding my next project car, with a realistic seller

Ya, no kidding. And an R code to boot. I figured Brian was 15-20 years younger than me at 64. Yikes, just looked at his DOB :)  You must have a young soul Brian.