BigDuke6

Horn suddenly stopped working. What are the best switches available today?

check them from end to end with a multimeter. https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Defective-Spark-Plug-Wires.html#:~:text=Use the digital multimeter%2C set,have recommended different maximum resistances. I was having terrible engine problems that a lot of money could have been saved if I had checked each wire first. I made the wires using a universal kit and one of my crimps failed and only had a few wires connecting to the plug. One new wire and the problem was solved. So as long as you are getting good resistance from one end to the other, you are prolly just fine.

Pretty much how I am going to go Vic except I want forged flat top pistons. I have ported RPM Performer heads that basically match the flow numbers of Vic juniors. I also have a ported Air Gap. I am planning on the Comp Cams 35-426-8 cam shaft.

the 9.48” deck height seems to be a limiting factor. I want to use a cast crank, 6.2” forged I beam rods, ugraded bolts, and flat top pistons that will give me a 10.5 CR using edelbrock Performer RPM heads. there was a stroker place based on the East Coast that shut down in the last few years that I was planning to purchase from that talked me through the process and was going to mix and match according to my needs but I wasn’t quite ready to pull the trigger on it at the time and now that I am, he is gone. Any suggestions?

Money

Just look at Remington and Colt and what the PE vultures did to them.

I don’t wish to seem indelicate here, but your question does call for the subjunctive.

So it is a standard base circle. I am shopping around getting my engine stroked and talked to a guy who claimed to have built several engines over the years and he assured me that these retrofit cams were reduced base circle cams and whoever told me I could use a standard base circle cam on a 1969 block did not know what he was talking about. Mild panic set in. I later called to comp which told me that all these cams are std. base circle cams and a reduced base circle cam would have to be special ordered and that these work in a 1969 block when using link bar lifters (which I have). I then perused the ford racing parts catalog and noticed this about the X303 cam The legendary X303 cam developed by Ford Performance for the 5.0L Fox-body Mustang. This cam provides a noticeable power improvement and lumpy idle while maintaining good driveability with a manual transmission. Works well with carburetors or mass air fuel injection. Fits 1985 and later 302 roller cam blocks Will also fit 1963-1984 non-roller cam 289-302 blocks when used with hydraulic roller lifters Will also fit 1994-1997 351W blocks with factory roller cam Will also fit 1969-1993 non-roller cam 351W blocks when used with hydraulic roller lifters needless to say, this guy will not be building my stroker.

I know that when retrofitting a roller cam on a pre-roller cam block, you can either use a spider and dog bone to run a reduced base circle cam OR a reduced base circle cam or a standard base circle cam when using link bar lifters. This brings me to the comp cams hydraulic cams such as this one: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-236-240-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-ford-351w.html#tab2.tab2 does anyone know if this is a reduced base circle or standard base circle cam?

these are the only pics I have from when I had an X junction installed. The pics were more geared towards the exhaust than capturing the subframes but hopefully you might be able to glean something.. My car was on a lift Tuesday and if I had seen your post earlier, I could have taken pics. This is from before the accident. The subframes were the only thing that kept the car from ripping in half

sorry for your loss. I have a PWR radiator that is a direct fit and I use a 2500 CFM pusher fan. I am running a hot 351 build that has 11:1 CR and a roller cam that makes 355 hp at the rear wheels and my engine never gets about 180. Even when sitting in traffic on a 90 deg day. PWR also makes direct fit radiators that have built in tranny coolers. They are available from https://www.crracing.com

are you saying you need an electric fan or you do not want an electric fan?

Nice. I have the magnaflow 2.5” system. I don’t have a video of me buzzing the tower yet but you get an idea of what mine sounds like https://youtu.be/y4ySeB3GwoQ

Holy cow. Those are the US prices. I got mine in 2007 for $399. It is now $999. Had the price gone up only by inflation, the 2020 price would be $495

I have this radiator from Oz. It looks like the US distributor is out of business but somebody else has to have them stateside. I can swear by this radiator. Note that the price is in dollary-doos so the US price is lower https://www.crracing.com/product/ford-mustang-1967-70-extruded-tube-crossflow-radiator-sbf-bbf