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cavboy78

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cavboy78 last won the day on December 23 2015

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About cavboy78

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    Colorado Springs, CO

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    Northern NY
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    U.S. Army

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  1. 351w rebuild decisions.

    f4te blocks are good for 650+ horsepower. If you are pushing more than that, than you have more reinforcements to do on your car than the engine block. hydraulic roller is also more efficient than a flat tappet, with less chance of wiping lobes during break in...
  2. 351w rebuild decisions.

    Also, i guess you could hold on to your old block because it's numbers matching. I sold mine fwiw, but mine isn't any special or low number car. Also, is option one to go down to a 289 block? If so, i would recommend staying with a 351w if that's what came out of it. Although some bits and pieces work on both, they all don't and there is $$$ in that. Plus, you'd prob be disappointed in a stock stroke 289 if you just came from a 351w.
  3. 351w rebuild decisions.

    i wouldn't limit yourself to a 69 351 block. Why not an F4TE roller 351w? came in a bunch of different vehicles in the 80s and 90s.
  4. Vic, I have a 351w with FPA longtubes, Borgeson, and the performer RPM intake. Manual brakes though. I used the Ron Morris adjustable lowering mounts. I have not had any issues with them over the course of the last 7 years or so. I feel like they were helpful for two specific reasons...First, was to ensure I had decent enough clearance under the hood for a proper sized air cleaner. It works, but it's a tight fit. I do have somewhat of a drop base cleaner, but nothing too drastic. Second, I do have the engine mounted slightly to the passenger side which was critical in ensuring clearance for the headers and the borgeson box, since it is slightly larger in the one critical space over the stock box.
  5. Need help choosing Leaf spring height

    so the coilover kit you bought incorporates a 1" drop at the UCA mounting point. This replicates the arning drop without drilling the holes. That doesn't necessarily translate into a 1" drop of ride height. But what you did buy is a full coilover kit that will allow for ride height adjustments, as needed. There are many threads on here that offer input on leaf count, spring type and where/who to buy from (meier, open tracker, eaton, flex a form, etc...) once you determine ride height. Couple of more questions... - What size tires/wheels are you running? Same all around or a staggered set up? If you're running a much larger tire in the rear, you may want to stick to stock or mid eye... - How much power are you running? Are you planning on using a traction aid like cal tracs? More leafs/higher rate will help provide less wheel hop - What kind of driving will you mostly be doing? a softer leaf is better for cruising and obviously a stiffer is better for road racing, corners, etc... stiff springs on a daily cruiser will provide an unnecessarily harsh ride.
  6. Need help choosing Leaf spring height

    well, a couple of questions for you first. - what kind of coilover? A full coilover, or the kind that attaches stock style to the uca? - A 1" drop in spring/ride height or the arning drop? - you said restomod...what ride height do you want? stock, lowered, pro street stance, etc... it sounds like you want a level ride height, but not sure. also, keep in mind that you can use lowering blocks to drop an 1", if needed. There are pros and cons about these that i'm sure others will bring up. Once you answer these questions, then we can provide some more specific feedback. In general, stock springs are way too high for my likings. I went mid eye and they were still to tall for me. But i like my car to ride lower than stock...
  7. New fastback

    i kept saying marti report, but i meant the original invoice.
  8. New fastback

    IIRC, my marti stated exactly what came with the grabber package...i.e. sport mirrors, etc... I was headed down the same path you were in wanting to do a trans am tribute car, especially since I just had a plain jane sportsroof. But then I did the marti report and found out it was a grabber special, so I rolled with that during my build. give me a couple of hours and i'll post up.
  9. New fastback

    I can post up my marti report when I get home so you can see where the grabber package is annotated. when I purchased mine many years ago, it had a severe identity crisis (Mach 1 mixed with Boss 302 stuff) so who knows what was original or not. What it did have was the sport mirror, hood pins, hood scoop w/ signals, and a 302 2v with C4.
  10. New fastback

    agreed. mine was the same...a 302 2v C4 car. Found out later it was a grabber special though.
  11. December Snow in NC

    yeah, i had to snap this last May.
  12. i think the picture makes it look busier because of the color contrasts. If everything was painted in the satin black, then i think it would look much cleaner. I think it's a great idea. If you do it, drive it for a while and hate it, then you're only out $25 and the labor/paint costs. I could go either way on the rivets. I would lean more towards rivets on a non shaker hood and without on a shaker to reduce the amount of "thing" going on. so..to answer the question...cool!
  13. Long Tube Headers?

    one other thing to mention on the FPAs which is nice, is it has the dual bolt patterns on the flange. The RHS 200 heads i have also have the dual bolt pattern which makes life so much easier for access/tightening purposes. I know you don't have those on the stock heads, but should you ever change heads, it will be nice later on down the road to have that option.
  14. Long Tube Headers?

    2 1/4" from the bottom of the frame rail to the very bottom of the clamp/lowest point of exhaust. I can do a measure from bottom of the exhaust to the ground, but that of course is all subjective to ride height. just let me know...2 1/4" from the bottom of the frame rail to the very bottom of the clamp/lowest point of exhaust. I can do a measure from bottom of the exhaust to the ground, but that of course is all subjective to ride height. just let me know...
  15. Long Tube Headers?

    the engine mounts drop it between .5" and 1". The measurement of 2 1/4" also goes to the very bottom of the clamps. The header itself terminates about 1.5" below the frame rails which jives with his measurements plus engine mounts. I could gain some more clearance by potentially positioning the clamps differently. Additionally, the exhaust is the standard flow master kit. Once i get "more complete" with the build, i will put on a custom exhaust that tucks up better. But not in a hurry at this point because i personally don't have any issues with it.
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