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cavboy78

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cavboy78 last won the day on February 27

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About cavboy78

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    Colorado Springs, CO

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    Northern NY
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    U.S. Army

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  1. I love my MTF headliner. High quality finish and great fitment. I used a layer of dynamat and a layer of dynaliner prior to installation and worked great.PM sent.
  2. Opentracker sells a rear disc kit that is easy to install. I have it on my 66 and works great. Mustang Steve has rear disc options as well if you want to use a late model mustang set-up, but i think they all require a 17" wheel for clearance.
  3. Yes, and if i remember correctly it's actually a very small clevis pin.
  4. @RPM, Bob, Here are a few pics that hopefully will help you. The fuse panel looks to get right in the way of where the cable routes through the firewall though. Let me know if you need other angles or shots of anything else. Matt
  5. No local engine builder available? These blocks are pretty durable and probably still have some cross hatching on the cylinder walls at 120k. Sounds like an intake/cam/heads combo with some new gears in the back would meet your intent...and keep you numbers matching, if you care.
  6. Left out a couple of things, the FPAs are expensive but are top notch quality. The ceramic coating still looks good after 10 or so years and they tuck up pretty tight underneath.
  7. I thought there were quite a few running FPAs?! Anyhow, 351w (F4TE), T-5 with MD cable clutch, Borgeson box with Saginaw P/S Pump. Exhaust is the 2.5 Flowmaster kit with h-pipe. I have the RHS 205 heads, which have the dual bolt pattern on the exhaust ports. This is what is really nice about the RHS heads with the FPA longtubes, since they also have the dual bolt pattern. Very easy to bolt up and remove as well. A couple of considerations: I do have adjustable motor mounts, which helped on the drivers side with both the cable clutch and the larger borgeson box. Also, i had to fabricate a bracket that bolts to an oil pan bolt and to the cable clutch itself. This helps secure the cable as it passes through the #7 and 8 tubes, which is pretty tight but doable. Hope that helps.
  8. No experience with those headers you have listed. I have the FPA longitudes on my 351w with the borgeson box (slightly larger than stock) and it clears just fine.
  9. A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).
  10. Not sure. I can confirm they are on my 70.
  11. Have you looked at CVF Racing? They have 351C brackets that look lke they work with the saginaw pump, but appears you have to also use their a/c bracket that only works with a sanden compressor. I'm a 351w guy, so not too well versed on the 351c issues. FWIW, i have their complete v-belt pulley system on my 351W for about 10 years. very high quality and no issues. https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-351c-power-steering-bracket/
  12. What heater hose are you using? I found that Napa Gold and Gates green stripe (which are the best imo) have a slightly larger outer diameter than basic heater hose. I was able to get the hose through the grommets (old ones) and to the heater box, but required some soapy water and brute force.
  13. I used RHS heads on my 351w. Good streetable power, non-stroked and about 430/430 at the flywheel. Link below:
  14. understand, but that should only be when the car is warming up. I would think this is the easiest way for someone who is not necessarily inclined to drill into their manifold.
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