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About Phils69

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 09/21/1968


  • Location
    Gibsonville, NC
  1. Thanks for the info guys. I'll take a look at the different options
  2. Hey Guys, Its been a while since I've posted. I'm trying to get my butt in gear and move forward with my car. I am planning on installing a new steering wheel on my car which I have already bought. My turn signal still works but it has to be held in one direction to stay engaged. I figured while I have the wheel pulled it would be a good time to replace the switch assembly. I am wanting to see if I can get some recommendations on a good replacement source for this. Thanks.
  3. Nope. Nothing quiet about it, 408w, AFR205's and Flowmasters. It's pretty loud actually but you could still hear the pump come on and off sitting in the drivers seat at idle. I found with my setup the canister works better for me.
  4. I have to say I really disliked the vacuum pump just because of the noise. It just didn't seem right to have that electric pump running buzz coming from the engine bay
  5. Have you tried a vacuum canister? I bought an electric pump and had trouble with the switch working properly. I then tried a canister, which is by far the cheaper solution, and it works well for me. I'm sure I have that brand new pump in a box somewhere in the shop if you do decide to go that route.
  6. Wel it is what it is. I knew going into the project I'd never get my money back but didn't care really as I had no intentions of selling. I might have to sell the boat and keep the Stang we will see. Thanks for the feedback guys.
  7. Thanks Guys. I do have a stack of receipts, more than I care to admit. When/if I get to that point I'm going to set the price at $15 firm. If it doesn't sell at that I'll just keep it. The engine is worth half that, man its a beast. It'll roll those 275 rears at will even with the 3.25 gear rear.
  8. Thanks for the input guys. I'm still not sure I'm going to try to sell it but if all else fails it may have to be an option. later guys
  9. I'd say to bring the car to top of the line show quality it would be around 25 to 30k if a shop was hired to do it. That would include new quarters, door skins, rear panel, glass,door panels and assorted odds and ends and high quality paint. The metal under the car is good except for two spots at the front torque box's It is a strong, solid car and I've done just about everything mechanically that I believe it needs. I'm not a body/paint guy though and don't see it happening any time soon. I've got at the very least 22k in it so I guess I need to set my bottom line price and see what happens. I feel that if I could get at least $18 for it that would give somebody that's good at bodywork a great deal. Do you guys think I'm way off base here?
  10. Thanks for the input. Dealing with the riff raff is the part I hate the most, I am not a haggler by any means. I would really like to see the car go to someone that can take it to the next level. I have been out of the game for a while so I am kind of lost as to what the Machs are going for now. I'll have to do some more research but its hard to get a feel unless you go see these cars in person which is hard to get the time.
  11. Hey All, Its been a while since I have posted but I am in need of your help again. I am debating on selling my car due to medical issues and other things. I know I would never get half the money that I have spent on it but I feel you guys can give me a good perspective on what it may be worth. I have pasted some info below along with a couple pics. 1969 Mustang Mach 1 - H code Wimbledon White with black interior The good – 408 Windsor balenced, AFR 205’s, FTI custom cam, Scorpion roller rockers, Stealth intake, 750 Holley DP, rebuilt and recurved distibuter, Digital rev limiter, FMS valve covers, vacuum Pump Kit Summit CCA-5500 4 row big block radiator, all new hoses and belts C4 with custom stall convertor from Ultimate Convertor Concepts Ford 9†Rear 3.25 Randals Rack Power steering kit Front suspension rebuilt, Opentracker upper and lower control arms & roller perch CSRP front disk power brake conversion. Swap 1.4/PBU/AT Global West subframe connectors Magnum 500’s with BFG’s 275/60/15 rear and 235/60/15 front Exhaust: FPA long tube headers with Flowmaster 40’s Interior approx 80% updated: New foam and seat covers, headliner, lights, sound deadener and carpet Misc: New main wiring harness firewall forward New fuel tank, lines and gas tank inlet changed to modern diameter The bad: Needs body work and paint Needs new glass, the rear glass is ok but the rest needs to be replaced Need interior door panels updated
  12. Yea. I would really need the chain to make it to. If you could post a close up of the pieces and maybe we can find one somewhere.
  13. If you could come up with a sketch I could possibly make one for you
  14. 408W stroker AFR205's : 10 light poles per gal
  15. I drew it up and programmed it then had my boss run it for me. I may make another with some holes in it for gauging one day.
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