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Phils69 last won the day on November 8 2020

Phils69 had the most liked content!

About Phils69

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 09/21/1968


  • Location
    Gibsonville, NC

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  1. I am ready to order the rear shocks/springs for the four link rear suspension I am installing. I need to know what what lb spring works good on our cars for street driving. Does anyone know the car weight on the front and rear? If anyone has some suggestions it would be appreciated.
  2. Here is what I have made to raise the lower arm well higher than the pic. It will tie the front in near where the existing leaf spring bolt point is but drop thye arm until it it level to ride height per the instructions. It will use the 1/2" bolt thru the leaf spring point and the front will be welded to the bottom of the rear torque box. I made a bracket for the rear that will have a pin in it to locate and center itself off the existing leaf spring bracket on the axle. It will use a 5/8-11 bolt through the axle bracket and the original u-bolts to the axle. I just feel better with this stuff up higher near the subframe brackets. Please forgive the welds, I'm definetly not a pro lol. Any thoughts?
  3. Looks like the pic I had added wasn't showing up. I added it again.
  4. I wish that was my garage. It is a belated friends. He was a good guy.
  5. Thanks guys. I am not a fabricator by any means but necessity is the mother of invention as they say. My neighbor did the welding so that sure helped.
  6. I pulled my mock setup out but here is a pic of the setup assembled to a rear clip. The kit I have is a generic less the shocks but on any car the lower control arm from the center of the axle would be the same distance I am thinking. Looks like the kit is designed for a crossmember style front support for the lower arms. I am going to make a bracket to move the lower control arm over closer to the axle and tie the front connection point in near where the existing front leaf spring bracket is. I have decided to keep the bracket from the kit that holds the lower ar and sway bar, going to cut off the bottom and make that just the sway bar bracket.
  7. I am starting to mock up my generic triangulated four link rear suspension and I am not happy with the ground clearance I am seeing. It looks like I would have only 5" under the front lower control arms to ground. I guess this is normal from a lot of the pics I am seeing online. I think I am going to make some brackets to raise it on the same plane as my Global West subframe connectors. I just don't like the idea of something hanging that low in front of the rear axle. Am I freaking out for nothing??
  8. Finished the front traction box repair. I am happy with the way it turned out. One less weak point on the car.
  9. I would go local like I did before. I used a guy that some friends recommended and could not be more satisfied. He is a small father/son shop and has helped me out a lot. He even came to my home for the first start on my engine after I installed it. Having said that a friend totally switched to crate morors at his shop.
  10. I had planned to remove the subframe connectors and add a welded to floor design but decided against it. I had to sit the car down off the rotisserie temporarily so I put it on jack stands. The rear was supported at the rear of the subframe connectors and the very front of the frame by the radiator. I noticed that on the left front there was a 1/4" gap between the frame and the jack stand when I rested it on the stands. If the car is that stiff to hold itself up like that there is no way I am cutting off those Global West subframe connectors. I am going to replace the torque box and a couple of other small issues then do the rear suspension. I have already bought the generic rear suspension kit but there will be some trial and error adapting it, should be fun though and I'll surely learn a lot.
  11. I am getting a little closer to finishing up the front torque box replacement. I had my neighbor (frame/body guy)come by yesterday to see what I needed to do next. He said drill 5/16" holes in the replacement panel where the original spot welds were. That way we can fill them in with weld and make it look as stock as possible. He also said where there are gaps put in a 5/16" self tapping screw to pull it up tight and we will fill the holes in after welding. This may be common knowledge to you guys but I wanted to pass it along in case someone like me is doing research on replacing the torque box.
  12. Well plans have changed to say the least. My friend who was the expert on car rebuilds/suspension died so I am on my own with the rebuild. As far as the car goes I did get it attached to a rotisserie. The first thing I have to attack is replacing the right front torque box. NPD was out of stock so I ordered from CJPony parts. Seems to be of good quality and thickness, so far I have had to massage it to fit my car. I am not a body guy so this may be normal, idk. What a pain in the butt taking the old torque box off. Some of the inner spot welds I could not drill out so I had to chisel them apart. I attached pics of the new box in place. Now I have to buy a welder. I have a old Miller stick / Tig machine I bought years ago but it seems Mig is the way to go with this type of work. My neighbor is going to help me where he can, he is a professional body repair/ frame guy. My neighbor recommends a Millermatic 211 but I believe I will go with a Hobart Handler 190. Basically half the price and it shoule be ok on the auto stuff?
  13. I am planning on pulling the engine/ tranny with the FPA headers attached tomorrow. Its going to be tight, I'll let you know how it goes. I thought I would post a pic with some gear head eye candy in the background...
  14. It's been years since I did mine but I'll throw my 2cts in on the off chance it may help. I'm not sure of the size but I did order the larger radiator when I did my stroker build. I would see my temp gauge climb when I was stopped in traffic during hot summer day and had to do something about it. I got with my engine builder on it and the end result is we replaced the stock fan and spaced it where it would be located in the shroud better to promote pulling air through the radiator. I haven't had any issues with cooling since. That new fan blade moves a ton more air than the original. With the hood open and doing a rev it will about blow your hat off. It is a stock Ford flex fan, not one of those aftermarket ones that like to come apart. I just removed it yesterday in preperation for pulling my engine and googled the P/N. A link is below, there are some used ones on Ebay as well. It still kind of looks original which I like. I went with FPA long tube headers and like them pretty well. At the time they were one of the best options for a long tube that tucked up pretty well. http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1973-1985-ford-truck-bronco-f-100-302-351-5-blade-engine-cooling-fan-cf-d7ua-8600-adj/
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