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Phils69

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Phils69 last won the day on August 5

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About Phils69

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    Gibsonville, NC

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  1. I am planning on pulling the engine/ tranny with the FPA headers attached tomorrow. Its going to be tight, I'll let you know how it goes. I thought I would post a pic with some gear head eye candy in the background...
  2. It's been years since I did mine but I'll throw my 2cts in on the off chance it may help. I'm not sure of the size but I did order the larger radiator when I did my stroker build. I would see my temp gauge climb when I was stopped in traffic during hot summer day and had to do something about it. I got with my engine builder on it and the end result is we replaced the stock fan and spaced it where it would be located in the shroud better to promote pulling air through the radiator. I haven't had any issues with cooling since. That new fan blade moves a ton more air than the original. With the hood open and doing a rev it will about blow your hat off. It is a stock Ford flex fan, not one of those aftermarket ones that like to come apart. I just removed it yesterday in preperation for pulling my engine and googled the P/N. A link is below, there are some used ones on Ebay as well. It still kind of looks original which I like. I went with FPA long tube headers and like them pretty well. At the time they were one of the best options for a long tube that tucked up pretty well. http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1973-1985-ford-truck-bronco-f-100-302-351-5-blade-engine-cooling-fan-cf-d7ua-8600-adj/
  3. Great engine bay. Those shock tower panels look really nice. What the heck is that upper control arm setup your have there on the right side of the pic?????
  4. I see its compatable with a rear exhaust too. That looks like its going to be a challenge with any coilover system in our cars. Going to be fun lol
  5. Thanks Jay. I'm looking forward to starting on it. With other things going on in my life the last few years I did lose focus on the stang. This is the first time in years that my overtime has been almost zero and I have cut back on my machine shop work at home to just stuff for friends so I have time to get back on it. My neighbor being a body man and having recently made friends with a car builder it just seems like things are falling in place to get back on the car. Just wish my 23 year old son would want to participate more.... Any talk of selling the car and he balks like its his birthright but when it's time to wrench on it... I am going to push to get it back together but It will take time. We are going to have to make some custom brakets for the four link setup I am sure and while I have the rear axle out it may be time to ditch those drum brakes. First things first is we have to have some rails made to join the front and rear frame rails together. Basically the end result will be like steel tubing on three sides and the top will be laser cut to match my floor pan. We will clean and weld it to the front and rear rails and the floor pan itself. He is saying the boxed effect will be light and day difference from the global west connectors I have now. I am hoping to pull the engine and tranny by the weekend and get the guy over to make a pattern of my floor pan so he can make a set. His company does mostly Mopar stuff but they did have a set for a 67 he let us try for free but there was just too much difference.
  6. Looks like a really nice and complete kit. Looking forward to the pics.
  7. Thanks for the feedback Jay. I had tags on it a few years ago and drove it occasionaly. One issue is that when I went around a corner it felt like the rear of the would shift over suddenly. I am like you, when I got the car I made it driveable first so I could get some enjoyment out of it instead of having it in a million pcs in the shop. Mechanicaly its pretty good but its time for body and paint. But before I do that my friend has talked me into fixing the rear shift problem first. I stripped it down a few weeks ago to get ready for the body work but It was still driveable until yesterday. Its always hard to see such a vitale pc of your car off of it lol.
  8. Thanks Grabber. Life gets in the way but its time I get back on it. Do you have a link to a pic of the suspension kit you are going to use on a 69? My friend is helping me with mine and he is the brains of the outfit as far as suspension goes lol. He is a racer from way back. He is retired now and builds high end cars frame up. I have sent him links on the kits out there I thought looked good but he didn't like the geometry . He buys a lot of frames and stuff from a company call Art Morrision, man they are nice. They don't have a four link kit for my car but we are going to get their generic kit and adapt it. Thats the plan at least. Have to make those floor pan rails and get them installed first.
  9. Powemaster here too, 10 years running.
  10. I have decided to start back on the stang after a long break. Needs body work/repair, paint, new glass and everything else under the sun it seems. It does have a functioning drive train and a lot of upgrades from original. The first hurdle is a four link rear suspension, rear disk setup, and developing a boxed frame rail to tie in the front and rear frames. The rail will tie both ends in and be laser cut to match the floor pan so it can be welding all along the pan to add to the structural stiffness. I have welded in global west rails now that tie the front and rear together but want to improve. I am going to work with a local company that makes the same for Mopar cars to match the 69 floor pans. They make a set for a 68 stang but it doesn't fit mine. Looks sad all stripped down on the lift. Pulled off the drive shaft, fuel tank, leaf springes/shackes, shocks, brake line and e brake cable. Looks barren back there.
  11. Thanks for the reply guys. I had my neighbor come over and take a look. He is the one thats going to be doing it, he is a body full time and on the side at home. I will need to buy the following: Both quarters. he is going to cut below the right angle seam and replace down from there Both door skins. He asked if it were possible to find replacement doors to reduce cost? I told him I doubted it The rear taillight panel one of the rear corner moulding pcs . the ones made out of pot metal The front bottom valence I'll check on the Dynocorn
  12. Hello all, It's been a while since I am posted. Since I have time on my hands now its time I finally start back on the stang. Body work is next. Has anyone used body panels from NPD lately? I am curious about their quality. I have a lot to buy and they are within a drivable distance so I would like to use them if the quality is good.
  13. Thanks for the info guys. I'll take a look at the different options
  14. Hey Guys, Its been a while since I've posted. I'm trying to get my butt in gear and move forward with my car. I am planning on installing a new steering wheel on my car which I have already bought. My turn signal still works but it has to be held in one direction to stay engaged. I figured while I have the wheel pulled it would be a good time to replace the switch assembly. I am wanting to see if I can get some recommendations on a good replacement source for this. Thanks.
  15. Nope. Nothing quiet about it, 408w, AFR205's and Flowmasters. It's pretty loud actually but you could still hear the pump come on and off sitting in the drivers seat at idle. I found with my setup the canister works better for me.
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