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GypsyR

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GypsyR last won the day on September 17 2018

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About GypsyR

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 03/02/1963

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  1. When you have an engine dynamically balanced they need the crank, rods with the bolts, pistons, rings, wrist pins, balancer, and the flywheel/flexplate you are going to use. When balancing they don't actually spin balance all your parts, they just want them so they can weigh them. So the pistons, rings, and wrist pins don't need to be assembled. Some builders will only dynamically balance the crankshaft with the flywheel/flexplate and the harmonic balancer and just weight match the other parts. Apparently you can get good results with either method.
  2. On it. If it were me and I didn't want to try a 3.8 flexplate I'd knock a weight off. Then I'd find a ball bearing that fit in the middle of the flexplate (maybe with some temporary glue) and set it up like I was hand balancing a motorcycle or bicycle wheel. That way I could grind off a tad bit more steel if I weren't happy with how neutral it turned out to be. Kind of curious how you ended up with a custom balance engine but it wasn't dynamically balanced before you got your hands on it. My local guy won't balance a crank unless you have all the involved rotating parts there for him.
  3. The PAX looks to be your best choice. At least they SAY it fits. All I know is the 3.8 flexplate I mentioned is zero balance from the factory, is the right diameter with the correct number of teeth, and I think has the correct offset. But the only one I actually have on hand is a flywheel for a 3.8, not a flexplate. Though I do have a 157 tooth 5.0 flywheel handy I'm not at all sure the comparison between those two would translate usually into pertinent info for what you need. I've personally compared the offsets between an AOD/e/4R70W flexplate and one for a C6/E4OD and found the difference surprising small. You about have to use a micrometer to tell them apart. But that tiny difference very much matters. Trying to say though I can do my best to compare two apples I can't say that what I find will the same for two oranges. In fact I doubt it would. By the way, I had to go to Summit and search up what you bought. When I look it says it would be backordered until mid-October. Link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pax30210
  4. Sounds like you want to look at a 1998 or so Mustang 3.8 164 tooth flexplate if you want a stocker but it seems to me with what you have going on you might be better off with an aftermarket and custom SFI approved flexplate.
  5. This is the working bay. Pictured in house remodel mode. All the crap on the floor to the right is that stuff (and my chili pot). Router on the left, table saw out, and I forgot why the welder was involved. As much as I hate to say it, the is situation normal. Too much stuff and too little room. As for tools there's an Atlas lathe and Clausing mill lurking back there I guess.
  6. I like cobalt whatevers. Lately I've been using a set from Harbor Freight. I have Drill Doctor I resharpen bits with. I keep a "to do" list on my phone which includes whatever bits I may have broken lately. I tend to pick up single replacements at Northern Tool mostly. I think those are Dewalt. Elsewhere I find Vermont American. I've seen some "cobalt" bits which are sort of rainbow colored. They aren't true cobalts and are instead just coated. I would buy plain black HSS black oxide ones over those. At least they aren't trying to fool me. Actual cobalt bits are a darkish gold color. Brighter gold ones are the titanium coated ones. They're OK until the that microscopic coating wears off (about 2 seconds into a piece of steel) but I wouldn't pay extra for them. Harbor Freight puts a set of their titaniums on sale sometimes as low as $12. They're not great but not bad either. A decent starter set. Just replace the ones you actually use, dull, or break with individual cobalts. If you're like me you'll use the heck out of just a few sizes and the rest will stay like new.
  7. I don't this guy tossing out any actual qualifications other than he authored a book and stood in front of a camera. Plus I might be inclined to give him a tad bit of credit if his personal cars weren't a generation one Prius and a Honda Insight. Jeremy Clarkson once spoke of the Insight as wanting to crash it into a tree just so he wouldn't have to drive it anymore. That and in the one video he claims he wasn't aware of how the curve at the front of "undertrays" had and aero effect. Reading between the lines this tells me this boob has absolutely no qualifications in the field of aerodynamics. Just no way. But as the saying goes "Just because the biggest fool in the world says the sun id shining doesn't make it dark outside." I long since have been quite distracted but about 15 years ago I stocked up on some PVC sheet to do essentially the same sort of things. It and the car are still out there but I'm still quite distracted. Though it may not be clear on every video, allowances are to be made to vent air from underhood. A side effect he mentions of all this that the air directed under the car this way has a bit of venturi effect and will draw that warm out through smaller openings than one might expect. If you do things right. Do a big lower like he shows on his Prius on a Fox Mustang and you will have an overheated engine PDQ. Because those cars draw the air for the radiator from up under the front bumper. I bet he has no clue about that. Aero stuff isn't a one size fits all science. For what little I know about it anyway. Far from an expert me, but I've tried to listen while smart people talked.
  8. I'm rather fond of the original factory IFS. With some upgrades ala Opentracker. I 've noticed that seems to be the preferred way to go with people that autocross and/or do some amateur level open track racing.
  9. Seems like I've seen this thread before somewhere. But anyway.. When people say they want a bunch of power and there's a choice between a smaller engine and a bigger one, the answer is the bigger one. Pretty much just that simple. Getting around 400 HP from a 351W isn't too hard. Stroke it for more. 8 inch rears rule of thumb are good up to 400 HP or so if there's no drag racing with slicks. Sounds like you'll need a 9. The "sub 11 second" thing kind of throws this. Such times aren't that easy to achieve. Plus if you do, they're going to say you have to have a roll cage if you plan to keep going to the track. Have a plan for that? An alternative to all this is to just hotrod the engine and car how you want to with an eye towards improving it's performance. If you forget about focusing on some arbitrary blue sky numbers the whole thing is a LOT more enjoyable. On the other hand, if you intend to use the car for competition then of course you need a thought out plan with realistic goals.
  10. If they went to good home then I guess that's all we could really ask for. (It's like we're talking about kittens here.) :)
  11. I used Google Pics back when it was Picasa and it was OK. Google bought it and changed about everything about how it worked. Ticked me off and I went to Photobucket. They sold out and the new owners decided to charge everyone buckets of money or deal with having a hugely annoying watermark across everything. So I jumped ship again and am now at postimage. Their setup is much like the same Winkflash, Picasa, Photobucket formula so easy to get a handle on if you've used similar software. I think about three years now without them doing anything stupid so I'm quite happy with them. Winkflash did something to annoy me. Too long ago and I can't remember.
  12. If not then I need them. You take Paypal? (For the shipping)
  13. I put a 1403 on our '96 5.0 over ten years ago. New to me at the time and I had my doubts. Still on there and I wouldn't trade it. The 500 cfm is a perfect match for all around driving with a little foolishness on occasion. The AVS with the annular boosters would be even better. Now that I say it. OK, maybe I would trade that old Edelbrock. :)
  14. Is it me or does that appear to be a "China" relay? I don't even give those relays the benefit of a doubt anymore, straight ou tof the box and into the trash they go. If it's not a Bosch or a Potter-Brumfield I won't use it. Seriously, I've had some really stupid issues with China relays.
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