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GypsyR

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GypsyR last won the day on September 17 2018

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About GypsyR

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 03/02/1963

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  1. If not then I need them. You take Paypal? (For the shipping)
  2. I put a 1403 on our '96 5.0 over ten years ago. New to me at the time and I had my doubts. Still on there and I wouldn't trade it. The 500 cfm is a perfect match for all around driving with a little foolishness on occasion. The AVS with the annular boosters would be even better. Now that I say it. OK, maybe I would trade that old Edelbrock. :)
  3. Is it me or does that appear to be a "China" relay? I don't even give those relays the benefit of a doubt anymore, straight ou tof the box and into the trash they go. If it's not a Bosch or a Potter-Brumfield I won't use it. Seriously, I've had some really stupid issues with China relays.
  4. Over the years I've fixed a couple of Fords (and one Dodge) that no one else could with a store full of alternators by simply adding a ground wire from the case to the ground point where engine block ground strap is. Or is supposed to be. You'd think it would be grounded by the bolts and brackets but in at least a couple of cases it was not and I proved it. After the second one I fixed it became my habit to add a ground wire to every alternator I owned that didn't have one already. The last one I caught I had since learned about voltage drop testing and was able to isolate the trouble area. Out of curiosity. It was between the case itself and the steel bracket. The aluminum case can develop a surface oxidation that apparently won't conduct electricity. Just like a coat of paint. Do you NEED a ground? Probably not. I've seen hundreds of vehicles that didn't have or need one. But I've seen it be an issue a couple of times and ground straps are cheap. It's not going to ever be an issue on MY cars.
  5. Good street performance is most often satisfactorily found with a planned combination of many small things, rather than making one or two changes and expecting a fire breathing monster. People have been porting these heads for many many years. Even after the aluminum heads became common they were still performance go-to heads in certain types of racing where choices were restricted to stock parts. Probably not really worth doing if you have to pay somebody full retail. If you want to do it yourself or can get a buddy deal on the labor, then do it. The recipes are out there to follow. Last I paid attention we weren't taking the "hump" all the way out. The guys with flow benches are saying to just reduce its height and give it a teardrop shape these days. If you plan to DIY you'd want to look all that up so as to have a good plan of attack. If you grind too much out of the wrong area you can literally turn a good head into unfixable scrap. Though a Dremel and it's 1/8" tooling is great to have, it's really only good for the final polishing and detailing. You really need a high speed 1/4" grinder for porting cast iron. Seriously, that power drill you have WON'T do it. Carbide bits don't work well at all unless they are spinning a lot faster than a drill can go. So porting some heads requires investing in a bit of equipment along with the time.
  6. Part of this is why some people say old vehicles have "personality", you have to get to know what they "like" and "don't like". Sounds like you are on the way. Another thought, when I feel like the engine is still pretty hot after stopping at the store or for a quick lunch I will take care not to tough the accelerator pedal at all, just turn the key. Most of the time it works best for me. If not then I will put the pedal down pretty far and hold it and continue cranking it like that. Three of my vehicles like this but a fourth does better if the throttle is cracked open just a bit.
  7. Kind of odd choices there. "Posi" is Chevrolet rear and "Danas" tend to be found under Dodges. What exactly do you want the car to do? What engine and transmission are in it (or will be in it?)
  8. Thanks. I have not noticed those during my recreational catalog browsings and didn't know they existed.
  9. I've seen the electric modification done here and there but never one with the turn signals too. Nice! Is that a modified original glass, a trimmed other-brand glass or what?
  10. I have no doubt, many people report they like their Nu-Relics just fine. However "modern" GM window motor caught my eye and tickled me. That motor design GM started using way back in 1982. 37 years ago, modern indeed. :) No worries about the actual design, though. They are very robust and reliable motors. Very much more durable (and more compact) than the Ford motors of the same era.
  11. I see a lot of people adding coolers apparently because they think it's a good idea or they've read advertising from the people who sell add-on aftermarket coolers but I often wonder how many people actually have used a temperature gauges to determine that they actually need one. Not many I expect. Lots of people seem to be concerned with cooling but hardly any seem interested into taking into account that a transmission also needs to come up to operating temperature. Mostly because if it doesn't then the condensation buildup in it isn't vaporized. And moisture is a mortal enemy of clutch material. If you insist on running a cooler without actually knowing whether you need one or not, at least install a thermostatic bypass. They essentially work the same as the engine coolant thermostat, only allowing cooling as needed. Bargain hunters can find them on 2000 up F150's and Taurus's (that I know of, probably others too.) If you can flare tubing, they are easy to fit. Such bypasses work great on engine oil coolers too but I don't know of any OEM ones practical for retrofitting.
  12. Interesting take on that part. My first thought on duplicating one was some round mild steel stock combined with some blacksmithing.
  13. I've been fooling with cars for a few years now. I've come to feel I'd very much prefer modification/repair work done by someone who actually CARES about what he is doing along with having the skills. There's a pretty big difference between a workman and a craftsman and their end products. The reason factories do spot welding is that's it cheap and fast. Basically the minimum necessary to produce parts quickly. People that work in such situations tend to take the same mindset, don't do what's best, do what keeps the production numbers up and keeps the bosses happy with the least effort on their part. Due to my unscientific and anecdotal observations of what happens in crashes and from taking stuff apart, I'm not personally terribly impressed by "factory spot welds".
  14. I kind of like to make my own but if I were going to buy some they'd be the Spintechs. They are the only ones that truly integrate into the unibody of the car and look like the factory might have done them to the uninformed eye. Never been a fan of the "piece of pipe stuck under the car" look. https://spintechmufflers.com/mustang-1965-1970-sub-frame-connectors/
  15. I've become sold on the teflon versions. Any engine I've had a chance to look at some time after installing one has been bone dry. Only a couple I've seen but one was a driver for a couple of years and that one alone was about enough to sell me on the things.Teflon rear seals seem to be mandatory on later diesel pickup engines for some reason. For whatever that's worth.
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