69RavenConv

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It probably goes without saying but don't click on any links they may post.

Its Alive!
 
IMG_1263.MOV

I agree, I don't believe the February date can be correct. There may be some late August '69 cars, just before the model year changeover, that got the round bezel but I don't believe it was many.

The 69 Mach 1 was in good enough condition to drive it to Florida and back,  so drive it I did.  Drove a total of 4,837 trouble free miles and 500 ft of not so good.  She averaged 16.77 mpg, ranging from 13.5 to 21 per fill up. After leaving California I went thru Nevada,  Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas and into Florida. She ran and handled great the entire way, even over Monarch Pass in Colorado at 11,000 plus feet. The suspension worked great, not too firm nor soft. 
Driving home just East of West Monroe  LA, the right front outer wheel bearing experienced catastrophic failure without prior vibration,  shimmy or any warning.  I was fortunate enough to get the Mustang out of the traffic lanes, and the bearing was the only real damage. The inner wheel lip contacted the upper control arm ball joint sleeve which caused cosmetic damage to the wheel.  And the rotor rubbed the bridge area of the caliper when the failed bearing allowed the hub to wobble.
 The tow truck company manager, their driver and the Napa counter guy went completely overboard helping me get back on the road. Gotta love Southern hospitality.  
As this was my first real trip in the 69, I was pretty shocked at the number of folks from all walks of life and ages who commented on the Mustang.  You guys are probably used to to attention the cars gather but I'm still telling friends and relatives about it. It was a heck of a trip, so glad I made it.
 

None of the above ...its just what we do

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Fixed it for you!

Well of course, it's a Rally Clock, after all. You set the green hand to your scheduled arrival time and, using the map, compass and straightedge in your lap, coach the driver into hitting the next checkpoint precisely on time. :)

I used a plastic Auto-Meter Gauge pod that I mounted to the left dash cluster using the factory lower cluster screw (zero modification) for my voltmeter and it blends in quite nicely at the base of the deluxe cluster ... could easily add a second one on the other side with the other lower screw. 
However, this style gauge pod has been NLA from Auto-Meter for a while, but maybe you can find NOS or something similar from a different gauge mfr.
Doug

As I posted in another thread, the Shop Manuals show you how to repair the car; the Osborne manuals show you how to assemble the car. Since restoring a car is a combination of repair and assembly, I've found both useful.
That being said, the Interior Manual is probably the least useful of the bunch, since the shop manual does a pretty good job of explaining how the interior goes together. Since '69 and '70 interiors are nearly identical, most of the '70 manual applies to '69. Since no prints survive from '69, the '70 manual is all we've got.
I guess I'm kind of OCD, so I got them all. You may not want them all - I've found the Osborne Body and Engine books the most valuable.

If I could ONLY CHOOSE ONE...
 
...it would be Mary Anne.

Those are the correct bulbs - 13007-A (3-prong) outboard and 13007-B (2-prong) inboard - so that's not your problem.
A couple more things to check:
If the high-beam and ground leads are swapped on the 3-prong connector to the outboard bulb, it will cause the problem you're seeing.
A bad relay on the low beam circuit, try swapping in another one (or swap the high and low relays) and see if the problem persists.
Good luck, electrical problems can be frustrating.

According to my Mustang by the Numbers book by Kevin Marti:
There were 128,451 coupes built    (118,610 65A;      5,208 65B;       4,128 65C;   505 65D)
There were 25, 740 coupes built with a 250 -I6
There were 40,150 coupes built with AC.
------------------------------------------------------------------
So about 31.25% of coupes had AC -- Taking 31.25% of the 250-I6's would be about 8,045 cars.
It's probably less than that since folks buying a I-6 were probably not as spendy as the V8 buyers and didn't get expensive options, so it's maybe as rare as the GT package (6,694 built)?
However, the survival rate is probably small today, given the lack of respect for sixes and their parts over the years, so in 2017 it's probably a pretty hard-to-find setup. (I'm not sure how the I-6 A/C setup would have varied from the 302 small block, if at all)
Yes, I'm a geek who likes crunching numbers :)
 
BTW, there were 33,191 Fastbacks built with the 250 engine - 96 were the E Package
 
 

Both the five volume blue Ford Shop Manuals and the brown Osborne assembly manuals (ok, one orange one, the 1970 Interior manual because there isn't one for 1969).

That sounds correct (you'll have to verify the wire colors). The conversion allows the tach to be wired like the aftermarket -- Power, ground, and the "dist" post of the coil. I've said it before but it bears repeating - wiring the tach in series with the coil (rather than parallel) was NOT one of Ford's better ideas.
I would probably solder and shrink tube the original wires rather than twisting but that's just me.

The Buckskin is cool but those late 1950's cars were just made for turquoise :)
Looks like a fun project.

Where are you ever going to find hubcaps for it?

I thought the same thing. Then I imagined what it would be like owning the car and I thought it might become a negative. Like, EVERY time you took the car out, you'd get the following;

"Hey, who signed your dash?"
"Rob Schneider"
"Who? Never heard of him. Some big Oldsmobile guy?"
"Nah, he was the 'making copies' guy on Saturday Night Live for a while"
Oh. So why did he sign your 1964 Oldsmobile?"
"it was in a movie he was in"
"What movie?"
"American Virgin"
"Never heard of it."
"Yeah, nobody has, except me. And I have to explain it EVERY time I take this car out..."

I'm torn. Your post didn't help any either!  I would love a T5 and discs. And yes. The manual drums and vague steering are scary!

If you have your old one, you can use it as a template. buy a piece of 3/8'' copper tubing, sweat a Ferrell at the base as the stopping point, and attach your old bolt tab to the tubing. Works like a champ.

Possibly.  Voltage to the constant voltage regulator is via a resistor wire from ACC power at the ignition switch, which gets its voltage from the battery.  When headlights are on (power from the battery side), voltage would drop a tad.  However, the bimetallic CVR and the resistor wire should isolate battery voltage fluctuations from CVR output.  Oh...wait a minute!  If you have a digital temperature gauge, it gets its power directly from ACC, so yes, the input voltage to the gauge should drop, which raises the needle a bit.  Your fuel gauge should also bump up a bit (free gas!).
Next time when driving around during the day, turn on the headlights and see if your gauge is reading a bit higher. 

Nicely done. I'm an electrical engineer myself and the archaic diagrams from the factory have always been a source of frustration. Thank you, I pinned the thread, I don't think Ben will mind.

Drop a 5.0L in it. Give them Cheby boys something to grimace about :)

Drop a 5.0L in it. Give them Cheby boys something to grimace about :)

There were some serious hotties born in 1969 (scroll down the page to see -- and no, i'm not talking about P-Diddy and Jack Black). Good link, I was 11 in 1969 and remember those tunes on AM radio...