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stangs-R-me last won the day on March 23 2021

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. Just went to the NPD site and there is says the Exact and Concours Correct Dearborn versions (011202-1C) are for Metuchen built cars too. My driver's side with the factory sealer oozing out really looks as if a valve was never there though. So now that I know where they go and how they install, I probably should order a set !! Doug
  2. I've had my car since 1981 and the drop-off metal is all original and complete, but these valves appear to have never been installed on my Metuchen built car. Until today seeing Briain's original valve in place, I had no idea how or where these things mounted !! Looking at the NPD catalog, they show 3 options for '69: 67-70 "Good Repo" 68-70 Dearborn built "Exact & CC" 68-69 San Jose built "Exact & CC" Is it possible that these were not installed on Metuchen built cars ?? Figured pics would be good to show OE metal without the valves in place. Doug
  3. Above the gas pedal from firewall to bottom of dash ...
  4. Most people that have seen my inners lamps "ON" call them "brights", mostly due to the fact that they are very bright 100W GE # 4537 Aircraft Landing lights. Outers are Cibie' 57-28-02's with 55/65W H4 bulbs, which put out decent and useful light on their own. Doug
  5. Body color engine compartment in the 60's-70's was mostly a MOPAR thing ... this is part of the reason I could not do it to a '60's-70's Ford as I'm a Ford guy and not a Mopar guy. I think most 60's & 70's GM cars were black too. YES ... modern Mustangs have had body color engine compartments since the FOX body (1979), but I just don't think it looks right on a classic Ford. I don't know how the Mustang II's were done, as if it even matters. Heck I had a powder blue '79 Fairmont Futura that I painted the engine compartment BLACK because it looked better than powder blue. There, you have my opinion !! Doug
  6. My linkage is the OE Ford 1970 Mustang for the OE Ford-Hurst shifter. Purists will notice I modified the linkage at the shifter eliminating the factory rubber bushings and replaced with custom made metal bushings and drilled holes for hairpins. I think the Hurst tailshaft mounting plate (shown in 1st & last pics of RPM's 10/13 post) is the same for the OE and the Competition Plus that it is based on. Looking at RPM's last pic, the 2 counterbored holes (upper left & lower right) mount to the tailshaft, the 3rd mounting hole is the non-counterbored hole directly above the lower right hole. On my installation, you can see this 3rd mounting hole in the 1st pic is next to the shifter with NO bolt in it since I don't have the mating boss & tapped hole for this bolt. The upper centered shifter mounting bolt goes in the tapped hole in the Hurst mounting plate just to the right of the upper left c-bored hole, and the lower right shifter mounting bolt goes in the threaded hole just to the left of the lower right c-bored hole. On mine, you can see in the 2nd pic that I've got a nut on the back side of the plate on that lower right shifter mounting bolt so maybe it is just a through hole in the plate (not tapped), or the threads were stripped out on mine and I fixed by using a longer bolt & nut on the back side. The Hurst Competition Plus must use the Hurst linkage for a Mustang application (and the OE Ford-Hurst must use the OE Ford linkage). Doug
  7. Your tailshaft picture shows that it was cast for both the Mustang and the Falcon/Fairlane/Torino. On a Mustang, the shifter is mounted further back and the F/F/T it is mounted further forward. Mustang uses the back holes (one of the already drilled holes of the F/F/T pattern and the 2 undrilled on your tailshaft). Reason I know this is the 4-Speed in my '69 Mustang came out of a '69 Torino ... unfortunately in my case though, the '69 tailshaft only had the F/F/T mounting ears cast in it. I also put a Hurst shifter on mine (OE '70 type), and just modded the Hurst mounting plate (added a counterbored hole) so it mounts to just the back 2 mounting holes of the F/F/T pattern since I do not have the rear Mustang mounting bosses on my tailshaft. In your case, you can machine (or carefully hand grind) down the 2 Mustang mounting ears to be level with the forward ears then drill & tap the back 2 holes. Pics of mine ... can't really see that the rear mounting bosses are absent, but you can see the unused forward mounting hole of the F/F/T pattern. Doug
  8. NOTE / FYI ... Mach1 original seat covers and earlier reproductions used actual knitted vinyl for the comfortweave centers. This Knitted Vinyl is no longer available, so all the reproductions use an embossed vinyl instead of the actual knitted stuff. I've got early repro seat covers in mine (from mid 80's) that are correct so when I rebuilt my seats a couple of years ago with new foam & spring sets, I re-used my slightly worn but still in great shape upholstery in order to maintain the correct comfortweave material. So if you still have the correct knitted vinyl in yours and at least the comfortweave is in really good shape you may want to see if an upholstery shop can salvage / re-use your comfortweave to make new seat covers. Before you commit to TMI or another repro seat cover set, have them send you a sample of the embossed comfortweave material ... especially if you have the real stuff in the car now. Doug
  9. The extra Ground is from the O.E. Hood Scoop Harness. And now off subject ... My Ram Air system consists of a 1973 Mustang 302 Air Cleaner Base & Cover (cover trimmed so it just covers filter), snorkel & air breather tube from a '69 302/351W Air Cleaner, and an '80 Camaro Z/28 Ram Air Seal. Pie shaped cut out in hood is styled after stock hood cut-out of a '69 Torino w/ ram air and the same style hood scoop. Reason I used the '73 Air Cleaner is it is smaller in dia. than the '69 and seal fits within the stock hood cross bracing. The '73 base had various other cut-outs for emissions related stuff that the '69 base does not have so all these extra holes were also welded up before painting. 1980 Z/28 Seal was FREE (freshly removed from a then new Camaro that a friend owned) and I was able to make it work ... could maybe source something from a Ford application too. Note that the '69 Snorkel on the '73 base puts the exhaust riser opening above the valve cover, so no way to add the riser pipe & related parts to add a little more "stock-look" appearance to the mod. Doug
  10. The Black Plastic retainer is not reproduced and is hard to find. The off-white push-in clip is more common and I found one in my pile of extra wiring to use on my repro AMP harness. For the black one, I just used a zinc plated steel / black rubber coated clip that provides the same function and looks like something the factory "could" have used. Doug
  11. I'm not an engineer but I play one at work. My degree is in Industrial Technology ... the orginal "IT" ... basically a step below an engineer. Or as the engineering students called us in the 80's "IT" stands for "I Tried" (engineering) but flunked out !! Not my case though, I knew up front my abilities and started there. Doug
  12. I did not know Open Tracker offered a kit like this ... looks nice ... and it does say 351W & 351C '67-70 so that should work.
  13. What you are describing would more likely be something in the bellhousing (pressure plate or the fork) rather than under the dash. Doug
  14. It's been 10 years since I had mine out, so details are a bit fuzzy. You do need the dash pad & gauge cluster out, and steering column is tied into it but just needs to be unbolted from it (steering column can stay in car still attached to firewall). I'd also pull the drivers seat out so you can lay in the car ... which I'd probably do 1st so you can get a good look up in there to check the bushings & support to see if there is anything broken or cracked. Doug
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