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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28 2018

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. All the reproduction Zinc Plated Necks come without the factory "vent dent" in the face that allows your gas tank to breathe with a non-vented gas cap (which all O.E.'65-70 Mustang Caps were). All the reproduction Painted / Powder Coated necks come with this dent as do the '65-66 & '67-68 Conversion Necks, it is just the '65-69 Scott Drake and CJPP Zinc Plated Necks that come without. Anyway, I started adding this dent on all these necks a while ago, and finally finished a write up on the subject. See attached PDF. Doug ADDING VENT DENT.pdf
  2. Lowest it got in NE Wisconsin was just under $1 for E10 87 and $1.699 for ethanol free 91 …. a few weeks ago. Just bought gas yesterday and the 91 is back up to $2.499 (was $2.399 last Sunday). Still pretty darn cheap. Doug
  3. The alignment an my '69 with all stock '69 parts and a new Scott Drake '69 neck looked like your pic of the '70 neck. In my case I'm guessing my misalignment is due to the fact that it had been rear ended when it was fairly new and instead of replacing the T/L panel & driver's quarter they pulled it out and this misalignment was "close enough". You have to slip the hose on the 2 stems with the neck partially out of the taillight panel anyway, so just get it together and pull it in the last bit with the screws. On my still original T/L panel, I used machine screws & nuts in place of the O.E. sheet metal screws to mount the neck and pull it in … at least one of the holes was partially stripped out, so this was more solid and a better solution for my situation. Doug
  4. USPS had a postage increase so I had to update my price list. Also, the darn '65-66 & '67-68 conversion necks keep getting more expensive (guessing not high demand & only one mfr.) so these prices have been adjusted too. I've also reintroduced the Painted '65-66 Neck as I've found a source for these that is quite a bit less than Summit. There can also be a gas cap clocking issue with the Scott Drake Zinc '65-66 Plated neck where the stop may need to be trimmed back a bit and this is not an issue with this painted neck. Interestingly, the '67-68 & '69 Scott Drake Zinc Plated necks don't have this issue, only the '65-66. Doug
  5. They say the paper version of the magazine is dead, but Mustang Monthly lives online. I don't see any NEW content on Mustang360/Mustang Monthly. Does new content actually exist somewhere online or not ?? If so, how do you access it ?? I've also not got any phone calls or mail regarding what to do with my recently renewed 3 year subscriptions to MM & MCR. Are they hoping they can just keep everyone's $$ ?? Doug
  6. I think there is more head room in the back of a '69-70 Sportsroof than there is in the current 2015-20 ... you need to be about 5'5" to sit upright in them. I'm 5' 10" and was able to sit upright in my 2011 without my head hitting the back glass but not my 2016. I'll have to remember to try and sit in the back of my friend's '70 Mach 1 this summer to see how it compares to my '16. Great progress on the car, I'm guessing Mike can't wait for it to be finally road worthy !! Doug
  7. The correct bulb is a # 256 which is a FLASHER. For a while they were NLA from the local auto parts store, but I recently found NPD selling them. Mine had burned out so I stole the bulb from a spare PB Light set that is for my brother's car ... glad I could finally replace the bulb I borrowed !! Doug
  8. Parking Brake Light goes to the Fuse Panel; if it came with it from the factory, there should be a pigtail with a triple YELLOW female plug coming off the fuse block (as shown in the diagram). This fuse & triple plug only came on cars with Parking Brake light, Seat Belt light, or other accessory options (cruise control or tilt-away wheel may plug in here too). Cars without just had the one end of the fuse holder in the fuse block. Been a while since i messed with dash wiring (2011) so I can't remember what that green & yellow stripe / red female terminal goes to ... possibly under dash light or door light ?? Doug
  9. Did the column rebuild in 2011 on mine ... wish I had that very well done 2016 write up to follow !! Bought all the seals from MCR, there were not even remnants of any of the originals. The lower plastic bearing was not being reproduced yet and mine was completely gone so I had to make something (cut out of a white PVC pipe coupling) to retain that foam seal in place. Also had to add a small screw at the bottom to retain my custom lower plastic bearing / seal retainer, other wise it would have eventually slipped out the end of the tube. Other issue I had was play in the upper bearing and a new bearing & sleeve did not fix it. The steering shaft itself was worn where it rides in the bearing (I'm guessing 150k miles of manual steering might do that). I had to add some adhesive backed shim stock between the bearing and steering shaft surface to eliminate the play. So there was nothing wrong with the bearing or the plastic sleeve it sits in ... 2 more parts I bought but did not need. Doug
  10. And the Jan 2020 Issue of MM that I received last week is still had New Subscription cards in it ... interestingly, the Muscle Car Review I received the same day had none. Doug
  11. What do you plan to use as an AIR FILTER ?? I'm thinking there can only be a few options out there for dual carb set ups and I'd guess most if not all Ford variations are open element types like what you typically see on 60's Ford's with dual 4's. From pic's, it looks like these oval shaped air filters are narrower as well as shorter than the round element used in a shaker. Possibly a Mopar factory dual 4bbl air filter is wider and possibly taller too. I'm no Mopar expert, but did they ever do dual 4's under their Shaker ?? If so, I'd certainly study that air filter base … however the Mopar Shaker scoop is much larger than Ford's too. I guess the point I'm trying to make is you definitely want to design your air filter housing around an air filter element that is readily available. Guess you could design around two round elements as you see on some dual 4 set ups, but I'd think these would have far less filtration surface area that one large oval element. Having your custom elongated shaker air filter housing clear the distributor cap & wires is another hurdle that may make this impossible. If you can pull this off AND give it a stock look under the hood it will be a huge accomplishment !! Wish you the best of luck, Doug
  12. I still get MM and dropped MM&FF a few years ago as it was too much new stuff and not enough classic Fords. I recently re-subscribed to MCR after many years and it had lots of good and refreshing content … was also good to again read features on other Muscle Cars other than Mustangs. These were the only magazines I was subscribed to so this really sucks … I'm not ready to read magazines online exclusively. Doug
  13. Just a follow up on this thread. I sold 21 insert kits and only two posted that they got them installed (Mike65 & Shep69), plus sirhk100 posted feedback on his install of my first to ship complete neck assembly. I've since sold 21 complete neck assemblies … plus my own … for a total of 22. As it has been almost 20 months since I shipped out all these insert kits, I figure there have to be a bunch more that have been installed. Anyone else care to share install and/or usage stories ?? Thanks to all, Doug
  14. Thought I'd follow up on this topic as I did eventually change the oil in my toploader this past summer from the GL-5 to the correct GL-4 and it still grinds on occasion shifting into 2nd. I had bought a complete rebuild kit from David Kee and had a local guy give mine an overhaul back in 2011. This Toploader had never been gone through before (short of a fluid change in the mid 80's) so the rebuild made a huge difference yet I still get the occasional grind going into 2nd. Doug
  15. Sold my remaining '67-68 and 1969 Painted Necks that were clearance so I removed them from the price list in the original post. I also added a note that if you have a 1969 with a 22 Gallon tank (either stock 1970 or an EFI Conversion Tank) you need to use the 1970 Neck. Also, any of you that bought insert kits from me back in March-April 2018 (17 people / 21 inserts total) and the neck you planned to install it in is either a stock style '65-66 Neck, '65-66 or '67-68 Conversion necks (that I realized later needed to be crimped down smaller due to different tubing used on these necks), I will do an EVEN EXCHANGE for the correct insert for your application. Just ship it back to me pre-paid and I'll ship the one you need back pre-paid. Doug
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