Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


stangs-R-me last won the day on July 3

stangs-R-me had the most liked content!

About stangs-R-me

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips. Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4". 1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips. Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here: https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES. To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips. My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984. Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway. In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have. They are works of art !! Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !! Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here: New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !! Doug
  2. To clarify, door panel o/a sizes are the same as is the woodgrain insert. The door cup pulls are LONGER on a '69 Panel than '70, and the pics posted appear to be the longer '69 type. Factory '69 Door Cup pulls were pot metal and you can get repro's in either pot metal or plastic. As easy as the factory ones broke, avoid the plastic ones. I'm thinking the breakage issue might have been the reason for the change ... but if the shorter '70 door pulls really hold up better than the longer 69's I don't know. Doug
  3. Yes, the AC Glove box insert is smaller than the non A/C one. Just replied in your other thread, but it looks like I'm too late with that tip !! Doug
  4. Before you install your "pristine case" in the car, you should add a brass tube support ferrule glued inside the fiberglass nipple as I did on mine. The nipple on my original and spare case were both broken off and I was looking for a way to repair and came up with this idea and it worked great. The brass tube support ferrule O.D. is the I.D. of the fiberglass nipple and was about the same length. Found at the hardware store ... IIRC its function is for use on soft tubing / hose inside a tube nut. See pics
  5. I guess I did not know or remember that little fact that they were 1969 only. Just looked in my old Mustang Recognition Guide, and sure enough the interior picture of the 1970 Grande' shows plain rear panels and they are also absent in the upgrade contents list. Doug
  6. Those of us with our worthless " red-headed-stepchild" Hardtops ... this is probably our only "ONE-UP" / bragging feature we (can) have that no big brother highly sought after Sportsroof car could have !! That and a back window you can actually see out of, a back seat that 1 or 2 average size people could sit in, and a larger / more usable trunk ... features that just don't matter in the '69-70 Sportsroof world !! Doug
  7. I have the Grande' rear interior panels in my 1969 Hardtop ... got them from a junk yard Grande' in the 80's ... a huge difference vs. the plain steel painted panels. I don't know if the basic steel panel is the same as a non-Grande' but padded vinyl is added along with the arm rests and woodgrain panels. The padded vinyl is also embossed around the woodgrain, which might be hard to duplicate if the vinyl need replacing. Mine are all original including the vinyl. Definitely a great upgrade if you can find as set in decent shape. Doug You can see the vinyl details pretty good in this pic:
  8. That has got to be it ... T5 cars had many heavy duty upgrades standard so I can see 5-Lug Wheels / Disc Brakes being one. Most T5's were pretty well optioned out too, so having a 200 Six in one has got to be pretty rare !! Doug
  9. In 1969, Power Front Disc Brakes were N/A with 200 Six (pic of price page from my 1969 Facts Book). Looking at the 1970 Facts Book online, is it was the same deal (page 22): https://media.ford.com/content/dam/fordmedia/North America/US/2013/11/18/1970_Mustang_Data.pdf
  10. It is a fact that the 250 Six came with the same brakes, 5-Lug Wheels etc. as the 302 cars did. However, the base 200 Six in 1969-70 DID still come with 4-Lug wheels and smaller brakes etc. like the '65-68 Six cars did. Doug
  11. Heated needle nose pliers ... YES. I even have a micro Craftsman pair that has smooth jaws that I've never found a use for ... well here we go !! I no longer need to do this as I shipped those lamps back for credit, but great discussion as this can pertain to refurbishing other areas of an automotive wiring harness. I actually bought a length 1-1/8" Heat Shrink when I bought the 3/4" as I was not sure if the 3/4" would go over the 3-wire plug. As I don't really need to have either laying around now, I really should return them (w/b $10.50 credit @ Menards). Thanks, Doug
  12. I was guessing the tool that does this has the heating element built-in, but YES something like that with a heat gun would probably work too. I wonder if a bag sealer could get warm enough to do it. Doug
  13. Figured I should share my back-up plan using the MUSCLE CAR GT lamps if I could not find a matched set of ACP lamps ... I first did a test re-tapping an M4x0.7 nut I had laying around with an 8-32 tap and threads seemed to be strong / not stripped out as I thought might happen. So, I was going to do this to the MUSCLE CAR GT lamps so I could use the correct O.E.M. screws. Then bought a 6" piece of Heavy Wall 3/4" 3:1 Shrink Ratio Heat Shrink Tubing and was going to cut in half and try and replicate the way the 80's vintage N.O.S. lamp was done with the heat shrink over the back end of the bulb socket This tubing is just large enough to slip over the 3-wire plug end. I don't know what I was going to use on the wire end to get it to seal flat around the wires like OEM, but I at least got this far. Doug
  14. As I stated in my post on 04/11, but not seen in my pic ... On my original harness, it exists the looming alone 16" further down about even with the trunk floor. Looking at the 1969 Electrical Assembly Manual, the Fuel Sending Wire departs from the main harness at the trunk floor in all the diagram variations. So yes, this is what both me and Randy believe to be normal ... thanks for adding this picture of what appears to be an untouched "as factory installed" image. Doug
  15. ACP Lamps came from Kentucky Mustang yesterday. They are BOTH Silver (or Clear) Zinc Plated so they at least match. Main benefit to being Silver instead of Yellow/Gold Zinc is I did not need to paint the inner reflector/bezel silver as ACP was NOT doing that on the yellow/gold ones either. The NOS Lamp I've got from the 80's is more silver than yellow/gold, so I'm fine with the color change ... better than my black painted originals for sure. The OEM 8-32 screws were tight going in on these (as they were on the yellow/gold one I got from NPD), so I chased the threads with an 8-32 tap. Even made little red wire loops like the OEM harnesses had out of some solid 22GA wire I had laying around. Smaller in OD vs. the OEM so 20 or 18GA wire would be better. Saga is finally over !! Doug
  • Create New...