Jump to content

stangs-R-me

Members
  • Content Count

    958
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

stangs-R-me last won the day on September 8

stangs-R-me had the most liked content!

About stangs-R-me

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

Converted

  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 8MM = 0.3150" 5/16" = 0.3125" As close as they are, 8MM tools work on 5/16" and vice versa. So ... bleeder screws could still be SAE threaded as Grabber stated. Doug
  2. I would think the stock Ford 2V & 4V 351W intakes would be the same height since you could get a Shaker on either one ... and as far as I know, there is only one 351W Shaker assy. Doug
  3. Your custom clock pod turned out really nice !! Doug
  4. I have a pair of the removal tools and don't remember having issues pulling the single DIN radios & CD players from my '94 & '98 Mustangs and my dad's '89 & '95 Taurus SHO's. Mayber there was a trick to it, but it has been so long ago so if there was ... I don't remember !!
  5. This should fit in a '69-70 Dash, as should most standard Ford 2-shaft radios from 1969-early 80's. My dad had an AM/FM Cassette in an early 80's Crown Vic that would also fit. I've got an AM/FM from a 1978 Country Squire wagon in my '69. Had another one from a '72 Country Squire that also fit ... these were both for a 4-speaker system, with the L-R Slide bar where the 8-track is located on the ebay one. I swapped because the '78 was 6 years newer and the L-R Slide bar was chrome on the '72 & black on the '78 ... more stealthy-looking, since the correct '69 radio did not have the slide bar as it only powered the 2 speakers. I also added rear deck speakers to my car, so need a 4-speaker radio. Doug
  6. Great video ... looks like it will be a fun project !! Doug
  7. Those tabs were broken on most of the deluxe clock bezels I found in the 80's when I would grab '69-70 parts from junkyards and swap meets. Thinking some were broke on purpose to save having to completely remove the dash pad to service the clock the next time ... which could be frequent with the factory clock movement. Doug
  8. The one end of of each hose has 2 staples holding them to their duct pipes. Looked under my dash and could see and feel the pipe with the kink in it ... the kink goes down to clear the speedo cable that goes above it. Only evidence of tape I see is at the far end elbows that attach to the dash vents (passenger side elbow is not shown as is still attached to my spare lower dash). I see no tape residue present where the hoses slip over the two ducts, so at least ways on my Metuchen built (& the spare Dearborn built) the hoses appear to have been just slip fit at these two points. Doug
  9. Guessing you are probably right about the staples ... that would make sense. I should have a spare set of ducts at home that I could check but I'm out of town at the moment. Doug
  10. Just looked through all my pics from when I had my dash apart in 2011 and did not find any with the ducts in place. I don't remember any type of clamps holding the hoses to the plastic pipes though ... pretty sure they were just slip fit and stay in place because they are relatively short and captive between fixed points. Doug
  11. Great car and awesome find on it and the much nicer set of rims !! For the 1st Ford I got with tire pressure sensors (2011 Mustang), you needed a remote control looking "tool" for car to learn new sensors. I had a 2nd set of rims with snow tires, but only think I had to teach the car once, then it recognized both sets of wheels. Got a 2nd set of rims for snows on my wife's 2014 Fusion and don't think it needed the tool. As long as the sensors are good and the right ones for the model year, most newer cars find them with no learning ... figured Mopar should be the same which you found out. Doug
  12. The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips. Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4". 1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips. Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here: https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES. To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips. My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984. Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway. In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have. They are works of art !! Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !! Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here: New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !! Doug
  13. To clarify, door panel o/a sizes are the same as is the woodgrain insert. The door cup pulls are LONGER on a '69 Panel than '70, and the pics posted appear to be the longer '69 type. Factory '69 Door Cup pulls were pot metal and you can get repro's in either pot metal or plastic. As easy as the factory ones broke, avoid the plastic ones. I'm thinking the breakage issue might have been the reason for the change ... but if the shorter '70 door pulls really hold up better than the longer 69's I don't know. Doug
  14. Yes, the AC Glove box insert is smaller than the non A/C one. Just replied in your other thread, but it looks like I'm too late with that tip !! Doug
  15. Before you install your "pristine case" in the car, you should add a brass tube support ferrule glued inside the fiberglass nipple as I did on mine. The nipple on my original and spare case were both broken off and I was looking for a way to repair and came up with this idea and it worked great. The brass tube support ferrule O.D. is the I.D. of the fiberglass nipple and was about the same length. Found at the hardware store ... IIRC its function is for use on soft tubing / hose inside a tube nut. See pics
×
×
  • Create New...