stangs-R-me

FYI ... If the Deluxe Belts was a "factory installed option" on a "non-tach / standard instrument cluster" car, the seatbelt light is in the instrument cluster (RH side of FUEL/TEMP Gauge Pod), not on the lower dash like it would be on a factory tach cluster car. The harness for the dash cluster belts light is different in that it has a twist-in plastic bulb socket (see pic) and is likely more common. Just thought I'd throw this out there too. Doug

1969-70 Cougars had a Power Window option. To be able to get the whole complete system from a parts car would be the ideal situation. There was a Cougar XR7 in a junkyard back in the 80's that had both Power Windows and a Tilt/Tilt-Away Wheel in it. I probably had gotten what I went there for that day and did not have the extra cash on me (and/or enough time left in my visit) at that moment to get these options completely out of that car. I kick myself today for NOT going back later and grabbing this stuff out of this car (probably pretty cheaply too) as it likely got crushed with these cool options still on it !! Attached are the factory wiring diagrams for the 1969 Cougar Power Windows. TODAY however, going with an aftermarket system is probably the easier and less expencive solution. Doug 2-E26 1969 Cougar Power Windows.pdf 2-E27 1969 Cougar Power Windows.pdf

Been a while since I visited & updated the Price List. If you need a new Filler Neck to Tail Light Panel Cork Gasket, Neck to Tank Hose, and/or the Hose Clamps I now stock these parts too: $3.50 ... C5ZZ-9076, Cork Gasket (Scott Drake or Daniel Carpenter) $11.00 ... C8ZA-9047, Hose (Daniel Carpenter) $12.50 ... C5ZZ-9040, Pair of Clamps (Daniel Carpenter) Have all neck variations in stock and ready to ship. Doug

If you still have a Ford steering column with Ford T/S Switch then splice the AWW harness with the Ford connector, as it would make replacing the T/S Switch easier if it ever needs to be replaced in the future. If you have an aftermarket Steering Column that uses a GM T/S Switch, then I'd go with the GM plug for the same reason. Doug

I bought and installed one in my '69 with factory A/C in 2011 and here is the write up I did on it back then ... - New Deluxe Molded Firewall Insulation Pad from Quiet Ride Solutions (MUST6970-CM1). After 7 weeks on back order with CJ Pony, I finally called the supplier (Scott Drake) direct, and their CS said they expected them in any day but had nothing firm. Not liking this answer, I searched other vendors, found one IN STOCK at Mustangs Unlimited, and canceled my BO w/ CJ. Paid $31 more for it but had gotten $20 / per $100 in gift cards from CJ (that I've since spent), so it was almost a wash. Anyway, it is a high-quality part ... better than the disintegrating OEM one I took out ... and fit nicely. All the needed holes were there, and I was able to re-use all my original hardware. Doug

8MM = 0.3150" 5/16" = 0.3125" As close as they are, 8MM tools work on 5/16" and vice versa. So ... bleeder screws could still be SAE threaded as Grabber stated. Doug

I would think the stock Ford 2V & 4V 351W intakes would be the same height since you could get a Shaker on either one ... and as far as I know, there is only one 351W Shaker assy. Doug

Your custom clock pod turned out really nice !! Doug

I have a pair of the removal tools and don't remember having issues pulling the single DIN radios & CD players from my '94 & '98 Mustangs and my dad's '89 & '95 Taurus SHO's. Mayber there was a trick to it, but it has been so long ago so if there was ... I don't remember !!

This should fit in a '69-70 Dash, as should most standard Ford 2-shaft radios from 1969-early 80's. My dad had an AM/FM Cassette in an early 80's Crown Vic that would also fit. I've got an AM/FM from a 1978 Country Squire wagon in my '69. Had another one from a '72 Country Squire that also fit ... these were both for a 4-speaker system, with the L-R Slide bar where the 8-track is located on the ebay one. I swapped because the '78 was 6 years newer and the L-R Slide bar was chrome on the '72 & black on the '78 ... more stealthy-looking, since the correct '69 radio did not have the slide bar as it only powered the 2 speakers. I also added rear deck speakers to my car, so need a 4-speaker radio. Doug

Great video ... looks like it will be a fun project !! Doug

Those tabs were broken on most of the deluxe clock bezels I found in the 80's when I would grab '69-70 parts from junkyards and swap meets. Thinking some were broke on purpose to save having to completely remove the dash pad to service the clock the next time ... which could be frequent with the factory clock movement. Doug

The one end of of each hose has 2 staples holding them to their duct pipes. Looked under my dash and could see and feel the pipe with the kink in it ... the kink goes down to clear the speedo cable that goes above it. Only evidence of tape I see is at the far end elbows that attach to the dash vents (passenger side elbow is not shown as is still attached to my spare lower dash). I see no tape residue present where the hoses slip over the two ducts, so at least ways on my Metuchen built (& the spare Dearborn built) the hoses appear to have been just slip fit at these two points. Doug

Guessing you are probably right about the staples ... that would make sense. I should have a spare set of ducts at home that I could check but I'm out of town at the moment. Doug

Just looked through all my pics from when I had my dash apart in 2011 and did not find any with the ducts in place. I don't remember any type of clamps holding the hoses to the plastic pipes though ... pretty sure they were just slip fit and stay in place because they are relatively short and captive between fixed points. Doug