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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28

stangs-R-me had the most liked content!

About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    I'm assuming you mean centering the distribution block piston. Best way is with it out of the car on the bench. On the '68-69 style you can push it from either end to center it with a punch or nail. On the '70-up style with access on one end only you can push from the one end, but would need to tap it on a bench top to get it to go the other way. If distribution block is new or newer, then the above instructions are good unless piston is difficult to move in the bore (see below). If it is an old block, it should be disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled with NEW seals ... also making sure piston moves freely in the bore before re-installing. Doug
  2. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    My set up is using the '68-69 style (lower pic) and instead of the round prop-valve I'm using a Ford replacement that looks like this ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-70-Ford-Full-Size-Factory-Disc-Brake-Rear-Proportioning-Hold-Off-Valve/190782903505?fits=Make%3AFord&hash=item2c6b8c14d1%3Ag%3AW0wAAOSwMXdaoY-p%3Asc%3AShippingMethodStandard!54241!US!-1&_pgn=2&_sacat=0&_nkw=ford+brake+proportioning+valve&_from=R40&rt=nc … along with a K/H (Ford Motorsport M-2328-A) adjustable one "in series" with the fixed one. If you want to do a fixed & adjustable in series like I did, it is probably better to do it with the '69 style dist. block. You could do it with the '70 style block, however only the built-in prop-valve will be bypassed if your front brakes fail and the piston shifts forward. Where with the '69 style block, both prop-valves are bypassed with a front brake failure. Not the best picture (should have snapped a pic while the master & booster were still out of the car) but here's a pic of my set up ...K/H on left and fixed one on right below the clutch pedal rod:
  3. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    1969 power disc brake cars had a separate rear proportioning valve and 1970 had it integral to the distribution block. If you do not have one in your system, that is indeed your problem. I'd get an adjustable one. I converted my car to PDB in the mid 80's using disc brake assy's from a '70 Mustang and brake booster / distribution block & proportioning valve assy. came out of a '69 Mustang. Rears are the big 2.5x10" station wagon drums that Shelby put on '65 GT350's. I also had lots of problems with the rears locking up. I then swapped out the stock prop-valve with an adjustable Kelsey/Hayes and it did not matter where I had the prop-valve adjusted they would still lock up. I finally fixed the problem in 2011. The original seals on the piston in the distribution block were shot and the one that divided the two sides of the proportioning valve was split, so the prop-valve basically did nothing. Got the repair (seal) kit for the distribution block from Muscle Car Research (since 2011, the complete distribution block with the proportioning valve became available as a reproduction so this is another option). I can now adjust the prop-valve for perfect brake balance. In my rework, I put a NOS 70's vintage Ford replacement proportioning valve in series with the adjustable one (which was probably overkill), but I wanted to make sure that I got the job done and since I can adjust the K/H to make the rears want to lock up, it certainly is not too much. Doug
  4. stangs-R-me

    Gauge cluster

    WOW … never seen this !! Got to be the closest to stock appearing option I've seen yet, nice find. As you said you need to ask for every option, wonder if you could get the blueish tinted background (instead of black) that deluxe dash clusters had to make it appear even more stock with the woodgrain. Minor thing that only a '69-70 Mustang nut would notice. Even the font used on the speedo & tach looks very similar to what was used on a standard black dash cluster. Doug
  5. stangs-R-me

    Clutch pedal not returning all the way to top

    Had the firewall to z-bar spring not have been missing, the problem could have been the clutch pedal support bushings. My pedal started returning all but the last 1/2" or so but not all the time back in 2011. Ended up being the pot metal bushings that the plastic pedal support bearings ride in had split. This pedal support was originally out of an A/T manual brake car (bushings like new) 30-40k miles ago so I was surprised to see them fail so quick. I had even swapped in a new pedal shaft at that time and it was gouged up a bit, enough so I did not like the idea of the Scott Drake Roller Bearing type conversion kit riding on this shaft so I went with a Mustang Steve Ball Bearing type kit instead (bearing race rides on the shaft, not the bearings) and all is good now. Doug
  6. stangs-R-me

    Tyres for Mach 1 225 r15

    I ran 225/70-14's all around on my car for the past 35 years. No problem with fit ever. As of last fall, I upgraded to 225/60-15's on 15x7" rims all around that are an inch wider but 0.77" shorter. I was tempted to go with 235/60-15's all around (0.3" shorter than 225/70-14) but decided against it due to the fact that I still have manual steering and thought this may be too wide. 255/60-15 is going to be a 27.05" tall tire (approx. 1" taller than 235/60-15) and is the maximum recommended width for a 7" wide rim. Whether it will fit out back with a 4.25" back space (or even different backspacing), I can't help you there. Doug
  7. stangs-R-me

    Finally completed I think

    Wow, excellent job and in such short time considering what you started with. Paint and panel fit is exceptional as others mentioned ... o/a very well done. Doug
  8. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    On the Scott Drake Set, the trans tunnel mount bracket is flat:
  9. stangs-R-me

    It's Back! So WTF Happened?

    I'm on FB, but have never been active. It was someone on a late model Mustang forum that abandoned the forum and started a FB page instead that got me to join. I find his page really annoying, and not at all useful / functional like a forum. As others have said, too many idiots posting dumb comments or inaccurate information. I don't have the spare time to follow the lives of FB friends nor do I have the time or even feel compelled to post anything about my daily life. So back to the FORUM … how do I fix my avatar ?? See that some of you have already done so, but don't see how to do it in my settings. Doug
  10. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    Did not mention this in my earlier post on June 19th, but the Scott Drake 3-PT Kit is also made by Seatbelt Solutions also. Still no complaints, absolutely love them. Doug
  11. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    My drivers side retractor squeaked quite a bit too when new. Sprayed WD40 on both sides of the mechanism and has been perfectly quiet ever since. Doug
  12. stangs-R-me

    Fuel Neck Filler Mods?

    I'm sure having the insert in there helps a bit, but having a new neck and cap is even more important. I went one step further and tested the cap & neck for leakage with water prior to installing. Obviously blew it out real good with compressed air afterward then let it air dry for a few days before actually installing. As I filled it likely fuller than it had been in years, I hammered on it a bit between the gas station and home and did not see or smell any gas around or below the cap when I got back home. So I'm really pleased with that as well. Doug
  13. stangs-R-me

    Fuel Neck Filler Mods?

    Well it took me a while, but I finally burned my full tank of gas from last fall down enough to go to the gas station and try this thing out first hand. Certainly did not help that I had my driver's seat out for rebuilding until early May, then was out of town for 4 weekends between then and now. So …. put unleaded nozzle in and locked it in at 2nd from max flow as I normally do on all my modern cars and stood back. Pumped in 13+ gallons and nozzle shut off like it does on a modern car with absolutely no drama … I.E. any splash or even the slightest amount of fuel past the insert that I could see. Had only driven 106 miles, so obviously was not as full on last fill up, and probably has not been for many years. Always figured it got around 10 MPG's so it will be interesting to see what it really gets now that I've got consistent shut-off at the pump. As much as I dreaded filling this car up (before yesterday), I can now say this has got to be one of ... if not THE MOST SATISFYING RESULT(s) of ANY MOD I've ever done to this car !! Doug
  14. stangs-R-me

    Horns blow fuses

    Does your car have or did it have factory A/C ?? If so, that metal spacer spaces the horn out so it does not hit the A/C dryer. Do not discard this spacer, they are not being reproduced and go for decent $$ on e-bay. Doug
  15. stangs-R-me

    Horns blow fuses

    My brother in law had this bumper sticker on a few of his cars … HORN BROKE, WATCH FOR FINGER … always got a kick out of that. As far as troubleshooting your horns, I think everyone else pretty much covered that. Doug