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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28 2018

stangs-R-me had the most liked content!

About stangs-R-me

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    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. stangs-R-me

    Santa Came Early

    Wow that sure is a nice and clean FOX … interior looks original and in great shape too considering it's age. My dad had an '80 Hatchback (200 I6 / 4 or 5-Speed) that he bought new and is what I learned how to drive stick in. My brother still has a '79 Hatchback 302 / 4-Speed that he bought in the late 80's. I had a '79 Fairmont Futura that I bought in '89 and basically turned into a roomier Mustang GT w/ '85 5.0L, AOD, 8.8 3.27 T-Lok, Quad-Shocks, 10-hole LX Wheels, SVO Seats & Console, etc. so I was deep into the FOX body world until the mid-90's. The FOX platform was so easy and fun to mod ... kinda miss those simpler times !! Doug
  2. stangs-R-me

    Adding Lumbar to '69-70 Mach 1 Seats

    Here is a pdf of the Rostra Circuit & troubleshooting page … no switch detail in the drawing, just an explanation how to test /troubleshoot the switch at the bottom of the page stating both sides are powered when switched to "inflate". I also scribbled up a quick sketch of how I would wire up a std. DPDT switch. Thanks DANNO on finding a Diode that will work … that route looks good and easy too. Thanks, Doug Rostra Lumbar Circuit & T-S.pdf
  3. stangs-R-me

    Adding Lumbar to '69-70 Mach 1 Seats

    Ground Wire runs to pump motor & dump valve. Power Wire runs thru 5A Fuse then to switch Two wires from switch go to positive motor & dump valve Switch is a momentary 3-way switch, however it powers BOTH the pump motor & dump valve wires when you want to ADD air to bladder then just the dump valve when you want to remove air from the bladder. I have normal 3-way SPDT momentary switches in there now, but being normal they only power either the pump or the dump valve. If you power just the pump, it runs but you get "0" air out of the hose. As I said in my 1st post, how this actually works has me sort of baffled. I'm a hydraulic/pneumatics guy and to me this should be a simple energize the pump to inflate and energize the dump valve to deflate. My curiosity got the best of me so I pulled the pump assy. out of the padded pouch it comes in to see if that helped me make sense of it. Pump does run through the dump valve, so maybe instead of being a single check in the dump valve to hold air in the bladder (which would allow the pump to pump air through it while de-energized) it is some sort of double check in this valve which would require it to be energized with the pump. And being in series with the pump, it actually bleeds bladder down backwards through pump when just the dump solenoid is energized. Pic of pump / dump valve assy:
  4. This past Spring & Fall, I rebuilt my Mach 1 Seats using new foam, springs, burlap, and felt. At the same time, I added Rostra Rear Mount Power Lumbar kits (250-1453). These kits come with 3-way momentary switches to pump up the lumbar bag and deflate it. Normally you would mount these switches in the side plastic trim of a modern car seat … something absent from a classic Mustang Seat. Not being able to think up a simple solution to this I instead modified the switch harness extending it to above the radio to use the two empty switch spots there and used two standard SPDT momentary 3-way toggle switches for a 1/2" hole. Problem is, the Rostra Lumbar switches are not normal ON OFF ON, instead the "inflate" direction energizes both the pump and the dump valve and the "deflate" direction energizes only the dump valve. So, since my std. switches only energize one or the other, the pump will run but not inflate the lumbar bag. Even though I can't wrap my head around HOW this Rostra circuit can possibly work this way, I've figured out how to duplicate the Rostra Switch circuit using DPDT switches and two jumper wires per switch instead of the SPDT that I have in there now. Question for you electrical gurus … I was also wondering if I could just add a Diode of some sort between the two switch terminals that would allow current in the one direction but not the other. The circuit uses a 5 AMP fuse, so I'd guess the Diode would need to be good for 5A. I would think you could even add this Diode at the pump which would not require me to remove the whole dash pad, etc. again to get to my switches. If this will indeed work, can someone recommend a part number of what I need to order ?? I did write-up with lots of pics on my seat rebuild / lumbar install … see attachment. Thanks, Doug Rebuilding 69-70 Mach 1 Front Seats.pdf
  5. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    I'm assuming you mean centering the distribution block piston. Best way is with it out of the car on the bench. On the '68-69 style you can push it from either end to center it with a punch or nail. On the '70-up style with access on one end only you can push from the one end, but would need to tap it on a bench top to get it to go the other way. If distribution block is new or newer, then the above instructions are good unless piston is difficult to move in the bore (see below). If it is an old block, it should be disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled with NEW seals ... also making sure piston moves freely in the bore before re-installing. Doug
  6. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    My set up is using the '68-69 style (lower pic) and instead of the round prop-valve I'm using a Ford replacement that looks like this ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/68-70-Ford-Full-Size-Factory-Disc-Brake-Rear-Proportioning-Hold-Off-Valve/190782903505?fits=Make%3AFord&hash=item2c6b8c14d1%3Ag%3AW0wAAOSwMXdaoY-p%3Asc%3AShippingMethodStandard!54241!US!-1&_pgn=2&_sacat=0&_nkw=ford+brake+proportioning+valve&_from=R40&rt=nc … along with a K/H (Ford Motorsport M-2328-A) adjustable one "in series" with the fixed one. If you want to do a fixed & adjustable in series like I did, it is probably better to do it with the '69 style dist. block. You could do it with the '70 style block, however only the built-in prop-valve will be bypassed if your front brakes fail and the piston shifts forward. Where with the '69 style block, both prop-valves are bypassed with a front brake failure. Not the best picture (should have snapped a pic while the master & booster were still out of the car) but here's a pic of my set up ...K/H on left and fixed one on right below the clutch pedal rod:
  7. stangs-R-me

    70 rear brakes locking

    1969 power disc brake cars had a separate rear proportioning valve and 1970 had it integral to the distribution block. If you do not have one in your system, that is indeed your problem. I'd get an adjustable one. I converted my car to PDB in the mid 80's using disc brake assy's from a '70 Mustang and brake booster / distribution block & proportioning valve assy. came out of a '69 Mustang. Rears are the big 2.5x10" station wagon drums that Shelby put on '65 GT350's. I also had lots of problems with the rears locking up. I then swapped out the stock prop-valve with an adjustable Kelsey/Hayes and it did not matter where I had the prop-valve adjusted they would still lock up. I finally fixed the problem in 2011. The original seals on the piston in the distribution block were shot and the one that divided the two sides of the proportioning valve was split, so the prop-valve basically did nothing. Got the repair (seal) kit for the distribution block from Muscle Car Research (since 2011, the complete distribution block with the proportioning valve became available as a reproduction so this is another option). I can now adjust the prop-valve for perfect brake balance. In my rework, I put a NOS 70's vintage Ford replacement proportioning valve in series with the adjustable one (which was probably overkill), but I wanted to make sure that I got the job done and since I can adjust the K/H to make the rears want to lock up, it certainly is not too much. Doug
  8. stangs-R-me

    Gauge cluster

    WOW … never seen this !! Got to be the closest to stock appearing option I've seen yet, nice find. As you said you need to ask for every option, wonder if you could get the blueish tinted background (instead of black) that deluxe dash clusters had to make it appear even more stock with the woodgrain. Minor thing that only a '69-70 Mustang nut would notice. Even the font used on the speedo & tach looks very similar to what was used on a standard black dash cluster. Doug
  9. stangs-R-me

    Clutch pedal not returning all the way to top

    Had the firewall to z-bar spring not have been missing, the problem could have been the clutch pedal support bushings. My pedal started returning all but the last 1/2" or so but not all the time back in 2011. Ended up being the pot metal bushings that the plastic pedal support bearings ride in had split. This pedal support was originally out of an A/T manual brake car (bushings like new) 30-40k miles ago so I was surprised to see them fail so quick. I had even swapped in a new pedal shaft at that time and it was gouged up a bit, enough so I did not like the idea of the Scott Drake Roller Bearing type conversion kit riding on this shaft so I went with a Mustang Steve Ball Bearing type kit instead (bearing race rides on the shaft, not the bearings) and all is good now. Doug
  10. stangs-R-me

    Tyres for Mach 1 225 r15

    I ran 225/70-14's all around on my car for the past 35 years. No problem with fit ever. As of last fall, I upgraded to 225/60-15's on 15x7" rims all around that are an inch wider but 0.77" shorter. I was tempted to go with 235/60-15's all around (0.3" shorter than 225/70-14) but decided against it due to the fact that I still have manual steering and thought this may be too wide. 255/60-15 is going to be a 27.05" tall tire (approx. 1" taller than 235/60-15) and is the maximum recommended width for a 7" wide rim. Whether it will fit out back with a 4.25" back space (or even different backspacing), I can't help you there. Doug
  11. stangs-R-me

    Finally completed I think

    Wow, excellent job and in such short time considering what you started with. Paint and panel fit is exceptional as others mentioned ... o/a very well done. Doug
  12. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    On the Scott Drake Set, the trans tunnel mount bracket is flat:
  13. stangs-R-me

    It's Back! So WTF Happened?

    I'm on FB, but have never been active. It was someone on a late model Mustang forum that abandoned the forum and started a FB page instead that got me to join. I find his page really annoying, and not at all useful / functional like a forum. As others have said, too many idiots posting dumb comments or inaccurate information. I don't have the spare time to follow the lives of FB friends nor do I have the time or even feel compelled to post anything about my daily life. So back to the FORUM … how do I fix my avatar ?? See that some of you have already done so, but don't see how to do it in my settings. Doug
  14. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    Did not mention this in my earlier post on June 19th, but the Scott Drake 3-PT Kit is also made by Seatbelt Solutions also. Still no complaints, absolutely love them. Doug
  15. stangs-R-me

    3pt Belts for 70 FB

    My drivers side retractor squeaked quite a bit too when new. Sprayed WD40 on both sides of the mechanism and has been perfectly quiet ever since. Doug