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stangs-R-me

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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28 2018

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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  1. Sold my remaining '67-68 and 1969 Painted Necks that were clearance so I removed them from the price list in the original post. I also added a note that if you have a 1969 with a 22 Gallon tank (either stock 1970 or an EFI Conversion Tank) you need to use the 1970 Neck. Also, any of you that bought insert kits from me back in March-April 2018 (17 people / 21 inserts total) and the neck you planned to install it in is either a stock style '65-66 Neck, '65-66 or '67-68 Conversion necks (that I realized later needed to be crimped down smaller due to different tubing used on these necks), I will do an EVEN EXCHANGE for the correct insert for your application. Just ship it back to me pre-paid and I'll ship the one you need back pre-paid. Doug
  2. That is amazing work !! Stock '69 hood pin clearance holes in the underbrace appear to be on the scoop contour lines, so stock location hood pins would be a no go ?? Doug
  3. Don't know if I ever posted in this thread as I typically start a new one with the subject. But figured this little mod was one of those things that should maybe be here instead of it's own thread. After who knows how many years of undoing my hood pins, popping the hood, and putting the BATTERY TENDER ALIGATOR CLIPS on the battery cables … I finally HARDWIRED a plug so I no longer have to pop the hood !! Took me a bit of thinking and studying before I found a stealthy spot … that you can tuck it behind the bumper when you want it completely out of sight for a show, or if your just running around town you can just cap it off and leave it hang. As the back of the bumper edge is sharp in spots, I added 6" or so of black convoluted tubing over the wire to protect it. I pretty much plug this car in at the end of every weekend and is probably the main reason this battery purchased in 2006 is still alive, so this certainly simplifies my routine. My headlight relays are tucked behind the pass side headlight bucket between the inner & outer lamps so I tapped into the hot wire here with length of wire and a female spade. Snipped the ring terminal off the B-T fused positive and swapped for a male spade. And the factory B-T ring terminal ground was long enough to reach the headlight bucket bracket behind the high beam at the same point I pick up the ground for the relays. Doug
  4. FYI: For those non-forum-members who find this thread, you will not be able to download the pdf's in the 1st post without becoming a member. If you have a 69-70 Mustang or have a passion for these model years, by all means join this wonderful forum full of 69-70 owners & enthusiasts that are very knowledgeable and helpful. if you have no real interest in the 69-70 model years you can instead send me an email at stangs.r.me@gmail.com and I will reply with the docs attached. Thanks, Doug
  5. I took 2 pics of '69 & '70 necks side by side and I think the '70 neck will line up with your tank as RPM said ...
  6. YES, 1969 & 1970 Necks are different … they are bent slightly different and the '70 is slightly shorter. Whether it is all due to 1969 having a 20 gallon & 1970 having a taller 22 gallon or if the different taillight panels are part of it as well I don't yet know. Since I sell modified filler necks to avoid splash-out, I searched at one point to see what neck is specified when a 22 gallon conversion tank is put in a '69 and did not find a firm answer. If the taillight panels put the neck in the exact same spot, then obviously you need a '70 neck in a '69 with the 22 gallon tank. But if this is NOT the case either a special conversion neck is required or you have to modify one yourself. I thought I had a 69 & 70 neck side by side picture but could not find one. I will take one when I'm back home Wednesday night if still needed. Doug
  7. Thanks to all you on this forum who bought insert kits from me in early 2018. I've since sold around a dozen complete necks to people who read the old thread and contacted me. Figured it was maybe time to actually "try" to sell these things, so I worked up a sales pitch and finally got around to posting it here as a brand new thread. Thanks again, Doug
  8. Are you tired of dealing with the possibility of splash-out when filling your classic Mustang with fuel ?? I was certainly fed up with gas pump drama with my 1969 and searched the internet for solutions a few times over the years and basically found nothing. In the fear of splash-out onto my bumper, license plate, and the painted surfaces around & below the filler neck I would squat down with my ear near the pump nozzle and listen to the fuel going in. Listening carefully, you can hear the sound change as the tank gets full and the goal was to release the lever in time to avoid splash-out. This was always a nerve-wracking routine, especially if there were other noises (traffic, etc.) to distract concentration so I dreaded the experience at each fill up. I've owned this car for 38 years and this problem has been a part of fueling since the late 80's when leaded gas disappeared. The leaded nozzles were designed to shut-off in an open filler neck, so my guess is they were more sensitive than unleaded nozzles. However a defective leaded nozzle could cause splash out too, so it was still a crap shoot even prior to unleaded gas becoming the only option. Anyway, I finally found someone who installed an off-the-shelf "unleaded fuel insert" that was a viable solution (credit goes out to forum member Mach1 Driver). His method however required major neck modification ... including cutting ... which was not appealing to me. So I ordered a couple of the same inserts to play with hoping to come up with an easier solution. After some brainstorming, I ended up adapting the insert to fit up the neck with minimal modification to the neck itself ... far simpler. I've now had it in my car for over a year and it is by far the most functional mod I've ever done. Like a modern car I can now just put the nozzle in, set the nozzle flow on the 1st or middle notch, let go, stand back, and wait for the nozzle to shut-off on it's own like it is supposed to do ... with ZERO SPLASH-OUT. To be able to finally fuel up my classic Mustang without any drama and "hands-free" is pure satisfaction. I then realized there are 9 different 1965 thru 1970 Mustang Fuel Filler Neck variations available, so I bought a sample of each and figured out how to adapt the insert to each one. There are both painted/powder coated and zinc plated necks and both styles are available for all years but 1970 ... which so far I've only found painted/powder-coated versions. I sell both complete new necks with the insert installed as well as insert kits with instructions for your own installation. If you want to do your own install I strongly recommend using a new neck, and I show all the necks that I know work on page 2 of my Price Sheet (page 2 of Tool List has even more details). See attached PDF files for all the details including pricing and contact info. Fuel Filler Insert Tool List-R4.pdf Fuel Filler Insert Instructions-R6.pdf Fuel Filler Neck & Insert Kit Price list.pdf
  9. I had bought the Scott Drake repro "Autolite" switches too and they went right back. On one of them the plunger would stick and then the OD of switch flange was smaller than original so that was the final straw for me. Something was goofy with the connector too, but don't remember it being that bad !! Doug
  10. Front Bumper corner brackets: When I got my car back from paint in 1982, I first re-mounted the old & bent up bumper that came with the car so these brackets did not line up at all with my brand new valance. When I finally got new bumpers, I got all new and correct hardware for these brackets and then painted the brackets black. With the new bumper in place, they still were off as far as lining up with the holes so instead of spending a bunch of time bending them to fit then re-painting them, I just left them off. Shortly after, I rear-ended a Nova (low speed) and flattened the nose of my new bumper and the upper valance behind it. The ends of the bumper also popped away from the sides of the car and if these two brackets had been in place they would have likely ripped though my brand new lower valance which I would have also have had to fix or replace and re-paint. Instead I just needed to straighten and re-paint the upper valance that goes between the headlight buckets and replace the bumper. May have needed to replace or repair / re-paint the lower trim panel and edge trim, but don't remember exactly. Not having to touch the lower valance saved me a bunch of $$. I bought a NEW set of these corner brackets about 10 years ago thinking I would finally try and install them but they needed tweaking too to fit so I again gave up. Quite honestly, I think the bumper has plenty of support from the inner and outer brackets that I doubt there is ever any "movement" way out on the ends. Doug
  11. 1969 has TWO switch holes 1970 has only ONE centered switch hole 1969 options included Cruise, Power Top, and Rear Window De-Fog Blower (Hardtop only). 1970 options included Fog Lights (Mach 1 only), Power Top, and Rear Window De-Fog Blower (Hardtop only). Pretty sure that is it. Doug
  12. I've been running my hood pins about 1/2" above the hood plates and the cables fed thru the grill with some foam centering the cables in the two grill openings since the early 80's when I bought a new O.E. Ford Set. They were not cheap to my then 19 year old self, so I did not want them rubbing anywhere including my new paint job. They only touch the front edge of the hood trim and the snap rings occasionally touch the inner top surface of the S.S. hood plates (there are marks, but being S.S., nothing other than shinny spots). When they do touch is out driving at speed if the wind catches them. Running them thru the grill certainly is NOT Ford Spec therefore the Concourse Correct crowd would not approve, but pulling them down and retaining them in those two locations in the grill make them curve nicely around the top of the hood and symmetrically towards the center that is pleasing to the eye and my OCD. I'm probably the only one in the world with my '69 hood pin cables running this way ... about time I share !! Doug
  13. My brother had a Winter Blue convertible ... it looked OK and I've seen pic's of Winter Blue Mach 1's and it looks better with all the black accents but don't think I could go with it. Always thought Acapulco Blue was nice but saw a 1969 Mach 1 over the weekend in this color at the Sturgis Mustang Car Show and it seemed kinda dull. Saw a few Lime Gold cars at the show too (my cars original color) so I was able to show my wife & sons that vs. the Calypso Coral they've only known it as. No '69's, but both a '67 & '68 Shelby and one looked to be original paint. So imagining this color with Mach 1 black accents, I think it might be a sharper looking combo than either Winter or Acapulco Blue. Anyway ... I think your son made a wise choice with the flashier blue !! Doug
  14. Beautiful car … I'd leave it alone too !! 2010-14 Mustangs with the SADDLE color interior just had the seats in SADDLE along with inserts in the door panels … everything else was BLACK (actually Dark Charcoal as Ford last used a true Black in 1999 or 2000). Anyway, this was a decent look and I almost ordered it with my 2011 with Kona Blue exterior … in the end I wimped out and went with all black as most people I showed the two interiors picked black. I was also worried about denim die transfer which is common on the lighter colors in these cars. As Barnett stated, vinyl die is really just paint and it will rub off eventually in wear spots which will look worse than if you left it black. Much better off leaving all your black plastic surfaces black. Doug
  15. Wonder if this is an early production car and Ford did not start doing it until later in the model year. Or it just was missed, as I'm sure this happened often enough too. Interesting, Doug
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