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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28 2018

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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    N.E. Wisconsin


  • Location
    N.E. Wisconsin

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  1. Did the column rebuild in 2011 on mine ... wish I had that very well done 2016 write up to follow !! Bought all the seals from MCR, there were not even remnants of any of the originals. The lower plastic bearing was not being reproduced yet and mine was completely gone so I had to make something (cut out of a white PVC pipe coupling) to retain that foam seal in place. Also had to add a small screw at the bottom to retain my custom lower plastic bearing / seal retainer, other wise it would have eventually slipped out the end of the tube. Other issue I had was play in the upper bearing and a new bearing & sleeve did not fix it. The steering shaft itself was worn where it rides in the bearing (I'm guessing 150k miles of manual steering might do that). I had to add some adhesive backed shim stock between the bearing and steering shaft surface to eliminate the play. So there was nothing wrong with the bearing or the plastic sleeve it sits in ... 2 more parts I bought but did not need. Doug
  2. And the Jan 2020 Issue of MM that I received last week is still had New Subscription cards in it ... interestingly, the Muscle Car Review I received the same day had none. Doug
  3. What do you plan to use as an AIR FILTER ?? I'm thinking there can only be a few options out there for dual carb set ups and I'd guess most if not all Ford variations are open element types like what you typically see on 60's Ford's with dual 4's. From pic's, it looks like these oval shaped air filters are narrower as well as shorter than the round element used in a shaker. Possibly a Mopar factory dual 4bbl air filter is wider and possibly taller too. I'm no Mopar expert, but did they ever do dual 4's under their Shaker ?? If so, I'd certainly study that air filter base … however the Mopar Shaker scoop is much larger than Ford's too. I guess the point I'm trying to make is you definitely want to design your air filter housing around an air filter element that is readily available. Guess you could design around two round elements as you see on some dual 4 set ups, but I'd think these would have far less filtration surface area that one large oval element. Having your custom elongated shaker air filter housing clear the distributor cap & wires is another hurdle that may make this impossible. If you can pull this off AND give it a stock look under the hood it will be a huge accomplishment !! Wish you the best of luck, Doug
  4. I still get MM and dropped MM&FF a few years ago as it was too much new stuff and not enough classic Fords. I recently re-subscribed to MCR after many years and it had lots of good and refreshing content … was also good to again read features on other Muscle Cars other than Mustangs. These were the only magazines I was subscribed to so this really sucks … I'm not ready to read magazines online exclusively. Doug
  5. Just a follow up on this thread. I sold 21 insert kits and only two posted that they got them installed (Mike65 & Shep69), plus sirhk100 posted feedback on his install of my first to ship complete neck assembly. I've since sold 21 complete neck assemblies … plus my own … for a total of 22. As it has been almost 20 months since I shipped out all these insert kits, I figure there have to be a bunch more that have been installed. Anyone else care to share install and/or usage stories ?? Thanks to all, Doug
  6. Thought I'd follow up on this topic as I did eventually change the oil in my toploader this past summer from the GL-5 to the correct GL-4 and it still grinds on occasion shifting into 2nd. I had bought a complete rebuild kit from David Kee and had a local guy give mine an overhaul back in 2011. This Toploader had never been gone through before (short of a fluid change in the mid 80's) so the rebuild made a huge difference yet I still get the occasional grind going into 2nd. Doug
  7. Sold my remaining '67-68 and 1969 Painted Necks that were clearance so I removed them from the price list in the original post. I also added a note that if you have a 1969 with a 22 Gallon tank (either stock 1970 or an EFI Conversion Tank) you need to use the 1970 Neck. Also, any of you that bought insert kits from me back in March-April 2018 (17 people / 21 inserts total) and the neck you planned to install it in is either a stock style '65-66 Neck, '65-66 or '67-68 Conversion necks (that I realized later needed to be crimped down smaller due to different tubing used on these necks), I will do an EVEN EXCHANGE for the correct insert for your application. Just ship it back to me pre-paid and I'll ship the one you need back pre-paid. Doug
  8. That is amazing work !! Stock '69 hood pin clearance holes in the underbrace appear to be on the scoop contour lines, so stock location hood pins would be a no go ?? Doug
  9. Don't know if I ever posted in this thread as I typically start a new one with the subject. But figured this little mod was one of those things that should maybe be here instead of it's own thread. After who knows how many years of undoing my hood pins, popping the hood, and putting the BATTERY TENDER ALIGATOR CLIPS on the battery cables … I finally HARDWIRED a plug so I no longer have to pop the hood !! Took me a bit of thinking and studying before I found a stealthy spot … that you can tuck it behind the bumper when you want it completely out of sight for a show, or if your just running around town you can just cap it off and leave it hang. As the back of the bumper edge is sharp in spots, I added 6" or so of black convoluted tubing over the wire to protect it. I pretty much plug this car in at the end of every weekend and is probably the main reason this battery purchased in 2006 is still alive, so this certainly simplifies my routine. My headlight relays are tucked behind the pass side headlight bucket between the inner & outer lamps so I tapped into the hot wire here with length of wire and a female spade. Snipped the ring terminal off the B-T fused positive and swapped for a male spade. And the factory B-T ring terminal ground was long enough to reach the headlight bucket bracket behind the high beam at the same point I pick up the ground for the relays. Doug
  10. FYI: For those non-forum-members who find this thread, you will not be able to download the pdf's in the 1st post without becoming a member. If you have a 69-70 Mustang or have a passion for these model years, by all means join this wonderful forum full of 69-70 owners & enthusiasts that are very knowledgeable and helpful. if you have no real interest in the 69-70 model years you can instead send me an email at stangs.r.me@gmail.com and I will reply with the docs attached. Thanks, Doug
  11. I took 2 pics of '69 & '70 necks side by side and I think the '70 neck will line up with your tank as RPM said ...
  12. YES, 1969 & 1970 Necks are different … they are bent slightly different and the '70 is slightly shorter. Whether it is all due to 1969 having a 20 gallon & 1970 having a taller 22 gallon or if the different taillight panels are part of it as well I don't yet know. Since I sell modified filler necks to avoid splash-out, I searched at one point to see what neck is specified when a 22 gallon conversion tank is put in a '69 and did not find a firm answer. If the taillight panels put the neck in the exact same spot, then obviously you need a '70 neck in a '69 with the 22 gallon tank. But if this is NOT the case either a special conversion neck is required or you have to modify one yourself. I thought I had a 69 & 70 neck side by side picture but could not find one. I will take one when I'm back home Wednesday night if still needed. Doug
  13. Thanks to all you on this forum who bought insert kits from me in early 2018. I've since sold around a dozen complete necks to people who read the old thread and contacted me. Figured it was maybe time to actually "try" to sell these things, so I worked up a sales pitch and finally got around to posting it here as a brand new thread. Thanks again, Doug
  14. Are you tired of dealing with the possibility of splash-out when filling your classic Mustang with fuel ?? I was certainly fed up with gas pump drama with my 1969 and searched the internet for solutions a few times over the years and basically found nothing. In the fear of splash-out onto my bumper, license plate, and the painted surfaces around & below the filler neck I would squat down with my ear near the pump nozzle and listen to the fuel going in. Listening carefully, you can hear the sound change as the tank gets full and the goal was to release the lever in time to avoid splash-out. This was always a nerve-wracking routine, especially if there were other noises (traffic, etc.) to distract concentration so I dreaded the experience at each fill up. I've owned this car for 38 years and this problem has been a part of fueling since the late 80's when leaded gas disappeared. The leaded nozzles were designed to shut-off in an open filler neck, so my guess is they were more sensitive than unleaded nozzles. However a defective leaded nozzle could cause splash out too, so it was still a crap shoot even prior to unleaded gas becoming the only option. Anyway, I finally found someone who installed an off-the-shelf "unleaded fuel insert" that was a viable solution (credit goes out to forum member Mach1 Driver). His method however required major neck modification ... including cutting ... which was not appealing to me. So I ordered a couple of the same inserts to play with hoping to come up with an easier solution. After some brainstorming, I ended up adapting the insert to fit up the neck with minimal modification to the neck itself ... far simpler. I've now had it in my car for over a year and it is by far the most functional mod I've ever done. Like a modern car I can now just put the nozzle in, set the nozzle flow on the 1st or middle notch, let go, stand back, and wait for the nozzle to shut-off on it's own like it is supposed to do ... with ZERO SPLASH-OUT. To be able to finally fuel up my classic Mustang without any drama and "hands-free" is pure satisfaction. I then realized there are 9 different 1965 thru 1970 Mustang Fuel Filler Neck variations available, so I bought a sample of each and figured out how to adapt the insert to each one. There are both painted/powder coated and zinc plated necks and both styles are available for all years but 1970 ... which so far I've only found painted/powder-coated versions. I sell both complete new necks with the insert installed as well as insert kits with instructions for your own installation. If you want to do your own install I strongly recommend using a new neck, and I show all the necks that I know work on page 2 of my Price Sheet (page 2 of Tool List has even more details). See attached PDF files for all the details including pricing and contact info. Fuel Filler Neck & Insert Kit Price list.pdf Fuel Filler Insert Tool List-R5.pdf Fuel Filler Insert Instructions-R7.pdf
  15. I had bought the Scott Drake repro "Autolite" switches too and they went right back. On one of them the plunger would stick and then the OD of switch flange was smaller than original so that was the final straw for me. Something was goofy with the connector too, but don't remember it being that bad !! Doug
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