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stangs-R-me

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stangs-R-me last won the day on February 28 2018

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About stangs-R-me

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 09/20/1963

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  1. I was going to say the same thing. Doug
  2. Glad I was wrong in my thinking that aluminum wheels should normally be hub centric. Learned something new today ... that is always good. Hopefully your installer or someone else close to you has the correct lug centric adapter so they can get you set up properly. Doug
  3. Just googled VWW and all the links I clicked on to their site are down. Likely reason is it appears that Coker Tire bought them out. Also googled the V45 and I see that it is an aluminum wheel similar to an old-school Torq-Thrust D. Can't say I've ever run across an aluminum wheel that is NOT hub centric, so your installer balanced them right which means you either have bad tires, wheels or both. Doug
  4. If they are Steel Magnum 500 wheels, the OE wheels were always LUG centric … not HUB centric as there really is no round center hub to locate on. I'd assume the repros are the same. Doug
  5. If not a Mach 1 as you say and as it appears in the pics, what engine did it come with originally ?? Best it could be is a 351W as it does not have big block shock towers. If not a factory 351 (M or H for 5th digit of VIN ... vs. F=302 / L=250 / T=200), it will NOT have a 9" rear unless someone added it later. I see a woodgrain dash in the trunk ... if it were originally a deluxe interior décor group car with a 351W and some other decent / desirable factory options it might be worth restoring. If a plain jane 302/250/200 definitely not ... at best a donor shell for a Dynacorn re-body maybe. Doug
  6. I just started going though my old Mustang receipts (prior to 1998 when I started using Quicken). I'm slowly putting all these old receipts in a spreadsheet by date and am up to 1988 (bought the car in 1981). Anyway I got this '70 O.E. Hurst Shifter from some guy selling Mustang parts and was curious what I actually paid for it. This was the Summer of 1984 and I went to his house to look at his Mustang parts and a '69 Mach 1 project car he had for sale. Within my receipts I found a note saying ... Shifter FREE ... I don't show buying any other parts from this guy and I know it was NOT the shifter that I went to look at. Maybe because the lever was all banged up or that the threaded end for the knob was snapped off I don't know why he gave it to me for FREE and I certainly did not remember this fact from that day and seeing the note recently certainly did not jog any memory either. Thought I'd share, Doug
  7. My Hurst is stealthy though with stock boot, lever & knob up top just like yours ... got to crawl under the car to see it !!
  8. I've got an O.E. '70 Hurst Shifter on mine plus it is 1-2 up-shift only that I get the occasional grind. Doug
  9. There was a lock-out rod for the 1970 4-Speed too … had to be in reverse (IIRC) to be able to remove the key. I'd guess the base 3-Speed likely had the lock-out rod too, but can't say for sure. Doug
  10. I bought the PennGrade Gear Oil from Summit last fall after reading about this issue either here or elsewhere. Just need to drain out the GL-5 that has been in there since 2011 when I get it out of storage and pour in the GL-4. I had bought a complete rebuild kit from David Kee and had a local guy give mine an overhaul back in 2011. I just got the correct weight gear oil from the local auto parts store not knowing I should be concerned with it being GL4 or GL5 at the time. This Toploader had never been gone through before (short of a fluid change in the mid 80's) so the rebuild made a huge difference. However it does grind going into 2nd every once in a while, so I'm hoping a swap to the correct lube stops or lessens it … vs. having to take trans out to have my guy go through it again. Doug
  11. For some reason I thought my car was built in March 1969, just looked at my data plate today and it's date code is 07B … guessing that would be February 7, 1969 so I missed it either way !! Doug
  12. Hey at least the OE '70 Mach 1 Tips came with a 2-1/8" Inlet and the Scott drake Concourse repro's claim they will fit up to 2-1/4". Interestingly, the Scott Drake tips are Chrome Plated Steel and not 304 stainless like the '67-69 tips. Read a few complaints about the SD tips rusting through the chrome quickly too, so that's not good. There are stock looking Rolled-Lip '70 Tips on ebay made out of 304 SS that would be the way I'd go if I had a '70. Sure they would also fit 2-1/4" and maybe could be even be expanded by an exhaust shop to fit 2-1/2". Doug
  13. Got the parts earlier this week and finished up the project today … turned out really nice with no clearance issues anywhere. Was thinking the rolled lips were going to still be the smallest restriction, but with a little math I found this is NOT TRUE … the 2-1/4" exhaust system tubing I.D. is actually less area than the twin tips. 2-1/4" 0.065" Wall Tubing = 3.528 sq-in area each Twin Tips are 1.895" I.D. = 2.82 sq-in area each x 2 = 5.64 Rolled Slant Cut Oval = 3.019 sq-in area each x 2 =6.038 The 1-3/4" O.D. crimped down tail ends I had before with the OE style tips = 1.986 sq-in area vs. the 3.528 sq-in of 2-1/4" tubing is a 77.6% increase in area which is a huge improvement. Using these tips on a 2-1/2" System would not be a restriction either as this with 0.065" Wall tubing would be 4.41 sq-in area which is also smaller than the twin tips.
  14. CJ's Part Number for the 2-1/2" Tips is: EXT25 … currently $174.99 / pair and in stock in PA Have no idea who makes them, boxes had no name or p/n other than CJP's number. For comparison, pic below is the Scott Drake ones for 2-1/4" which CJP sells for $95.36 / pair. The 2-1/4" inlet is a huge upgrade from 1-3/4" but they step down twice to the same 2nd choke point where it is welded to what appears to be the OE style twin tip junction. No internal shot, so don't know if the divider flap of metal (that is completely removed from the 2-1/2" design) is in there or not.
  15. Bought a pair of these custom 2-1/2" Inlet Tips a few months ago from CJP and was just blown away with how they opened them up inside for maximum flow. Twin tips are externally the same, rolled edge is a little tighter though giving a bit more opening: Stock approx. 1.50" x 2.14" vs. 1.65" x 2.33" oval area each tip. My exhaust is stock late 80's repro (transverse muffler) but the larger 2-1/4" 428 version instead of the 2" that should be behind a 351W. In order to fit the stock tips on the tails that came in this exhaust system I had to shorten them a bit as well as reduce the end dia. to slip into the tiny 1-3/4" inlets on the stock tips … in hindsight, I'm guessing tails were for GT500. This always bugged me but assumed at the time that the tips were the same for all engines so this is how it would have been on a Big Block. Come to find out more recently that 428 Mach 1's & GT's with this 2-1/4" exhaust came with special tails with less restrictive tips welded on the tails instead of the separate tips used on 390 & 351's. These unique tails are now being reproduced by Scott Fuller … but for the concourse crowd … so not cheap. So, since I had already cut & re-welded my tails to fit the stock tips way back when, I just ordered (2) 2-1/4" ID x 2-1/2" OD x 6" long aluminized 16Ga. adapters. I'll cut forward of my current welds and slip these adapters on, adjust to desired length, then weld these new adapters on. Stock tails are 16Ga. aluminized steel too, so I was happy to find these adapters made out of the same gauge tube. Scott Drake makes similar tips for 2-1/4" tails that sell for quite a bit less than these 2-1/2" versions, but from the inlets back look to be similarly restrictive as the stock ones so not worth the cost & effort for minimal improvement. Both tails slipped out of the muffler without any issues, so I'm just waiting for the adapters & 2.5" clamps to arrive from Summit next week. Doug
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