Zefevinee

Hello All,
Well it is the end of the season here and I would like to
do a few fixes to the car.
One of the large issues I am having is with the gauges.
The fuel gauge reads full when only 3/4 full, the oil pressure has stopped working
 
I have not investigated the oil unit - -I have in the the past - grounded the sender wire and swapped the
sender. I continue to have some issues.
 
So I am thinking it is time to replace most of the gauge section.
I was thinking of replacing the following - 
1. - Circuit Board
2. - IVR
3. - Gauges
 
I would like to do this only once - I don't want to take the dash apart again and again
Oh the car is a 70 mach - not tach
 
So here are my many questions
1. - who makes the best original style gauges
2. - Same with the circuit board and IVR
3. - Guages?
2. - Should I try to find NOS on e-bay ?
 
I would like this to work - on just one try
 
So now that I have asked - I should also ask
Am I going at this in the right way?
 
I have a small multi meter but stink at electronics and electrical
I can pull the dash and cluster - but what do I do then?
 
Well I appreciate all the advice on this and all the other items I have had in the past
 
Be well - -Thanks again
 
Sam   Print Dad
 
 
 
1. - 

Brand new power steering ram, I bought this new from Dan at Chockostang a couple weeks ago and decided to go with Borgeson. $120 shipped.
Thanks,
Matt

Any updates MTF?

I drove my car in the country a few nights ago and my stock headlights were terrible. I'm considering purchasing these LED bulbs from CJP
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/redline-lumtronix-headlight-halogen-led-halo-single-color-pair-1965-1968-1970-1973/p/BULBH4LED1/
 
 
Does anyone have any experience with these, or have an alternative to suggest? I'd prefer not to have the halo type lights and I'd like the car to appear stock.
Thank you
 
 

Hi all, I'm looking to replace the headliner in my 69 Mach. My question is - do I need to remove the windshield and/or the rear window to replace the headliner? Thanks for the responses.

As the title says. What's everyone's favorite detailing products, companies and tricks? Also what products, companies and tricks do you hate. Explaining is a must! Although to each his/her own. I've recently been wanting to try adams polishes, I keep reading how it's too expensive compared to chemical guys but I looked up the closest products and noticed only about $5 difference but with a 110% guarantee I can't see why not try it out.

I have been looking for a place to post and discus my build project.  I have owned this car for many years, I bought it some ware about 1998. It was a barn find before we called it that.  I have only once drove it.  Life, wife kids and hobbies have put this project on last burner or lowest priority until now.  I am more retired now and I am working on it at least once a week. I have bought a lot of parts over the years. I have always liked 69's but when I found this car for $400. I had to buy it. I had a beautiful 69 Grande Trippe black, but I sold it. That is another story. Any way this build is a custom so purest beware It was just a "Plain Jane sports-roof" to start off with. It will have a 69 front clip and rear 69 tail lights. It will have a 351 C,  T5,  Shaker, slats,  spoilers I know for sure. I had thought it was a rust free car until I pulled the carpet up on passengers side. It has always been in a garage since I have owned it.  

I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light.  The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off.  It does not light in either case.  I have checked the bulb and it is OK.  System charges fine at 14.4 volts.  I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style.  Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run?  Thanks so much for any help.
Mark

I've tried to stay on top of them today and attempted to  delete them as soon as they post. But I'll be away from here for a bit, so keep flagging them please.

I'm looking for a good used drag link for my '70 to convert to M/S.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Over the winter I will be replacing the rear leaf springs on my 69 Coupe & was wondering where would be the best place to support the car with jack stands to remove the springs?.

For some reason most 70s fit that way ,seems like the driver side was the worst ,I always bowed the hood in the very front and that is not real easy because it is such a short and stiff area that need to be rearched .

I do not like the look of the dome light in the center of the roof on the Coupe, I was looking at some pics of a 69 Mercury Cougar & saw it had interior sail panels like the 69 Fastback with the light in it.  I was wondering if anyone knew if the sail panel from a 69 Cougar would fit my 69 Coupe?.

When I got my car back from my painter, the back of the hood nearest the windshield was higher than the surrounding fender and cowl panel. I thought this would be a simple exercise to lower as the front of the hood lined up pretty well.
 
I loosened the hinge bolts at the inner fenders but every time I got the hood even and then tried to tighten, it would revert back to the higher position. I even tried tightening what I could reach from under the car.
 
Now, I think I have made it worse. 
 
Thoughts on what is the best way to start from 0 on aligning the hood?

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere.
 
So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come.
 
Dave

What happened on this site?  For the last coupe of weeks this site moves extremely slow and frquently hangs up when entering a post.  I can type two complete sentences before anything shows up on the screen.  Then sit back and watch each character slowly show up on the screen. I thought it was high internet activities due to the holidays.  But it is only this site. The only thing I have noticed is when the slow down occurs, there is some automotive ad scrolling on the bottom of the screen.
 
Anybody else notice this issue? 

Check out this video on YouTube:
 
https://youtu.be/f9QwIk1bCEA

One of my center caps fell off and I'm trying to replace it. I bought, and now have to return, one from CJP. It didn't have the same thickness or mounting method.
 
My cap is 1" tall and clips to the wheel via spring clips (9) on the back. I've searched and it doesn't appear there's a reproduction part of this.
 
Here are some links to pics
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/68608749/2016-12-04%2020.44.09.jpg
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/68608749/2016-12-04%2020.44.20.jpg
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/68608749/2016-12-04%2020.41.14.jpg
 
I 'think' I found one one ebay but it's 75 bucks so I'll have to assume it's an original

I am looking to purchase the full floor for my 69 fastback, I have been searching the forum and see that the scott drake and dynacorn are the 2 main pieces. Does anyone have experience with either? Also the scott drake looks like it does not come with the seat risers but the dynacorn looks like it does. Can anyone comment on this?
 
Thanks for the help
 
-Drew

Hello;

Now till December 18th I am offering 10% off on all purchases.

Tell you spouse to take back the ugly sweater they bought and buy you something you really want.

Just send me an e-mail at:

mail@vintageleds.com

Thanks

Gary      

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

Most of what they sell is pretty bad. But I'm on their list because they get a couple winners every now and then. For whatever reason, their sales only last a couple days and then their gone.
 
 
https://www.blipshift.com/products/sound-of-speed?utm_source=blipshift+Updates&utm_campaign=60532b8bdb-Detroit-Speed-Sale_2016_12_08&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0513fd2cb9-60532b8bdb-346067653&mc_cid=60532b8bdb&mc_eid=5fbfd5b552
 

i took my door panels off and found the passenger side window set up is all jacked up. found some parts on the door floor and the window roller on the back side of the door is completely gone. Ive been looking all over for the rollers for a 69 but having no luck. Mustang Unlimited has them for the 67/68 that looks like it would work. My options are: new regulator or try to get the one from MU and see if it works.
 
anyone have a roller or a regulator they want to sell? anyone have suggestions on which way to go?
Thanks

I'm in need of a water pulley for 1969 Mach 1 390 w/o AC and has p/s and also has a single pulley alternator. I believe the part number to C90E-8509-D if that is not correct could someone please help with the correct part number. Thanks Mason