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moose425

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About moose425

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 11/03/1960

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  1. I have solved this problem. I now have an electronic voltage regulator installed and my dash alt light works perfectly. It required cutting one wire, splicing into another, and installing a variable resistor from radio shack. Light works perfectly as it should. I will draw up a sketch and post it on here soon so others may use my solution.
  2. I have a 1969 GT 390 with 10 x 2-1/2 inch drum brakes on the rear. They need replacement. No one seems to make 10 x 2-1/2 inch drums, shoes, or installation hardware for the rear. Should I expect any issues (installation or use) if I go with 10 x 2 inch drum brakes on the rear. Thanks so much, Mark Miller
  3. OK, I can't really go by wire color as my car does not follow the wire colors in the Ford wiring diagram. I believe I have found the issue. When the car is started, the current flowing through the bulb flashes the field in the alternator rotor and brings the alternator voltage up to the point where the voltage is applied across both sides of the bulb and the light goes out. In the event the bulb burns out, in order to flash the alternator rotor Ford wired a resistance in parallel with the bulb. If the bulb is burnt out, current will flow around the bulb via the resistance wire and flash the field. With my electronic voltage regulator, the dash light is very dimly light with the switch in the accessory position. I think my only hope is either to go back to a mechanical regulator, or apply more resistance in parallel with the bulb forcing as much current flow through the bulb as possible. I guess I will need some concern as to whether or not excessive resistance in parallel with the bulb will prevent the field from flashing if the bulb blows. I'll have to experiment and see what happens. I will update my post accordingly. I wonder if on the 1970 Mustang, Ford went with an electronic regulator and such is why the light does not come on or is very dim. 1970 was about the time transistors where coming into the field of play. I believe the root problem is the electronic regulator applies more resistance in the circuit downstream of the bulb making it more difficult to establish a ground and light the bulb. I will try to find my old mechanical regulator and see if it lights the bulb. I got tired of the old mechanical regulator as it makes the dash lights pulse at idle.
  4. No, not recently. Alternator seems to work fine. Yes, there is a green wire with red stripe. That feeds one side of the light; with the ignition switch in the accessory position the other side of the light should see ground inside the regulator; thus putting a voltage across the light and lighting it up. Thanks.
  5. My car came from the factory with the tachometer in place. At one time the alternator warning light worked as it was required to (switch in accessory or in on with engine off the light came on). When I ground the top connector on the four pins on the regulator pig tail the alternator light comes on as it should. Such tells me I should not have a connector problem somewhere in the ciurcuit. I can't remember if this problem started when I switched over to the electronic regulator; I don't think it did. Thanks.
  6. I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light. The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off. It does not light in either case. I have checked the bulb and it is OK. System charges fine at 14.4 volts. I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style. Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run? Thanks so much for any help. Mark
  7. I have a four speed, no torque converter. I go back to what started this, and it was after the battery was fully cycled dead. I am still wondering if my battery just can't start the car when the starter is hot from radiant heat. Complicated by the fact it is a high torque starter which I imagine draws more current. Just my guesses. Thanks for any help.
  8. HI: I have a 1969 Mustang, 390, GT. A few weeks back the voltage regulator blew up, and I tired to drive home and the car finally stopped as the battery was fully dead. I replaced the voltage regulator, and charged up the battery. Now, sometimes, the starter barely turns and I get a VERY loud "knock" from the starter area. This is usually after driving a long distance and stopping the engine for a few minutes. I had the battery tested and they said it was good. I have a header close to the starter which I realize can heat up the copper coils in the starter making it harder for the starter to crank. The starter is a high torque starter, and the battery is basically a cheap one. Should I replace my battery with a 800 CCA battery, will this stop the horrible loud knock I sometime hear from the starter? I have wrapped the header with lava tape in an effort to keep the starter cool. What is making the very loud knock?? Thanks, Mark
  9. Does anyone have experience with the "max lube" type hydraulic lifters; they have a "flat" machined on the side to allow additional oil to run down to the interface between the cam lobe and the face of the lifter. I know Crower makes a variant of these. Thanks.
  10. My block has been 0 decked. If I go with the HE262H cam with the increased lift over stock, need I have any concern about valve/piston interferences? I don't want any surprises when I start up the engine! Thanks for all the help.
  11. What is the difference between the two lifters you recommend, the crane anti-pump up and the crower? What is a cheater lifter vs. a high lube they mention on the crower web site? Thanks for the info.
  12. I have been using the zinc substitute they sell at O'Reilly auto parts. This engine has a Milodon 8 qt sump, so I have been using about 1.5 bottles of the O'Reilly stuff at my yearly oil change. I noticed comp cams sells a break in additive. Is it OK if I just go with the comp cams break in additive along with my synthetic Castrol when I replace the cam? After that, I was just planning on using the O'Reilly additive at every oil change.
  13. I like your idea of just going with the stock off the shelf xe262H, with the crane lifters you mentioned previously. It sounds like you are of the opinion I won't have issues with components in my valve train with that xe262h off the shelf cam. I'll always take reliability over performance, as performance is out of my budget. Right now my plan going forward, is to remove my existing cam and see if I can determine make/model. At the very least I should be able to determine lift myself. If it appears the xe262H will satisfy my criteria, then that will be what I purchase along with the crane lifters you suggested. I welcome anyone else's opinions. Thanks so much.
  14. Lots of information!! I've been thinking this cam replacement through and through. I just spent over $1000 rebuilding my toploader, along with a new Ram stock type clutch and flywheel. My budget for replacing my cam/lifters is limited. I simply don't think I can afford to go with a hydraulic roller configuration. Too many bills and not enough money!! More so, when I realize as part of this cam replacement I am going to put in a new waterpump, as well as timing chain/sprockets, and all the miscellaneous stuff that comes up. I don't drive this car hard, it goes to local cruise-in's here once or twice a week. About the only thing I do is come off red lights a little quick. I've owned this car for five years, and never had any issues with the flat tappet cam I presently have. All I am really after is putting a little lope in the exhaust as that sound is music to my ears and is intoxicating!! As you can see from my previous photos, I have standard OEM rockers and rocker shafts. I can't afford to replace those with performance versions. I don't think I even want to put more lift on my existing rockers/shafts, as I have been at cruise-in's and seen guys with FE blocks break rocker arms due to excessive cams. I don't want to go through that. I am not certain what cam I have now, but I was told when I bought the car it was basically a stock cam because the previous owner did not like lope in the exhaust. I will check my existing cam when I remove it. Right now, I am wondering if the best thing to do is have a cam custom ground that is basically what I have now with just a little overlap to provide some lope. Basically, keep the lift close to stock (which I think is around .427 intake and .431 exhaust), keep the duration down to about stock, and just reduce the LSA so I have a little overlap. Another option I guess would be to have a cam custom ground to a comp cams xe262H spec except reduce the lift to closer to stock. The three things I am after on this cam/lifter replacement is; (1) a little lope in the exhaust, (2) keep it reliable, no broken rockers, shafts, push rods, springs, etc, and (3) keep the cost down. I welcome anyone's opinion on my ideas! You guys are making me smart!!! Thanks.
  15. You guys are giving me an education! All good info. Right now, sounds like I will go with the Crane anti pump-up lifters. Thanks.
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