moose425

What a yo-yo I am. I loosened and removed the hex head cap screws that allow the electric motor to be clocked into a different position about the mounting plate. I should have been loosening the three bolts that connect the mounting plate (and thus the electric motor) to the bell housing. The hole locations in the photo above lead me to realizing my mistake. The starter is now out of the car. Thanks to the guy who posted the photo.

I have used two boroscopes and a mirror and I can't find a third fastener. My car has headers, but everything else is stock. There is ample clearance between the headers and the starter. It is not as tight as shown in your picture. I put this starter in years ago and I just can't remember if I used two or three fasteners. I'm charging the boroscope up and I will look again tomorrow. Thanks for the info and photo.

I have a 1969 Mustang with an FE block, 390. Starter, which was an MSD high torque starter, has failed. One of the hex head cap screws that held the starter to the block was easy to get to, the second cap screw required use of a boroscope in order to locate it. Thus I have removed both fasteners. The starter now "rocks" when I try to remove it; but will not break free. I have looked and looked for a third cap screw holding the starter to the block but can't find one. I removed the lower flywheel cover plate and the starter gear is clear and free of the flywheel. I'm open to any ideas someone may have !!! Thanks so much.

I have solved this problem. I now have an electronic voltage regulator installed and my dash alt light works perfectly. It required cutting one wire, splicing into another, and installing a variable resistor from radio shack. Light works perfectly as it should. I will draw up a sketch and post it on here soon so others may use my solution.

I have a 1969 GT 390 with 10 x 2-1/2 inch drum brakes on the rear. They need replacement. No one seems to make 10 x 2-1/2 inch drums, shoes, or installation hardware for the rear. Should I expect any issues (installation or use) if I go with 10 x 2 inch drum brakes on the rear. Thanks so much, Mark Miller

OK, I can't really go by wire color as my car does not follow the wire colors in the Ford wiring diagram. I believe I have found the issue. When the car is started, the current flowing through the bulb flashes the field in the alternator rotor and brings the alternator voltage up to the point where the voltage is applied across both sides of the bulb and the light goes out. In the event the bulb burns out, in order to flash the alternator rotor Ford wired a resistance in parallel with the bulb. If the bulb is burnt out, current will flow around the bulb via the resistance wire and flash the field. With my electronic voltage regulator, the dash light is very dimly light with the switch in the accessory position. I think my only hope is either to go back to a mechanical regulator, or apply more resistance in parallel with the bulb forcing as much current flow through the bulb as possible. I guess I will need some concern as to whether or not excessive resistance in parallel with the bulb will prevent the field from flashing if the bulb blows. I'll have to experiment and see what happens. I will update my post accordingly. I wonder if on the 1970 Mustang, Ford went with an electronic regulator and such is why the light does not come on or is very dim. 1970 was about the time transistors where coming into the field of play. I believe the root problem is the electronic regulator applies more resistance in the circuit downstream of the bulb making it more difficult to establish a ground and light the bulb. I will try to find my old mechanical regulator and see if it lights the bulb. I got tired of the old mechanical regulator as it makes the dash lights pulse at idle.

No, not recently. Alternator seems to work fine. Yes, there is a green wire with red stripe. That feeds one side of the light; with the ignition switch in the accessory position the other side of the light should see ground inside the regulator; thus putting a voltage across the light and lighting it up. Thanks.

My car came from the factory with the tachometer in place. At one time the alternator warning light worked as it was required to (switch in accessory or in on with engine off the light came on). When I ground the top connector on the four pins on the regulator pig tail the alternator light comes on as it should. Such tells me I should not have a connector problem somewhere in the ciurcuit. I can't remember if this problem started when I switched over to the electronic regulator; I don't think it did. Thanks.

I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light. The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off. It does not light in either case. I have checked the bulb and it is OK. System charges fine at 14.4 volts. I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style. Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run? Thanks so much for any help. Mark

I have a four speed, no torque converter. I go back to what started this, and it was after the battery was fully cycled dead. I am still wondering if my battery just can't start the car when the starter is hot from radiant heat. Complicated by the fact it is a high torque starter which I imagine draws more current. Just my guesses. Thanks for any help.

HI: I have a 1969 Mustang, 390, GT. A few weeks back the voltage regulator blew up, and I tired to drive home and the car finally stopped as the battery was fully dead. I replaced the voltage regulator, and charged up the battery. Now, sometimes, the starter barely turns and I get a VERY loud "knock" from the starter area. This is usually after driving a long distance and stopping the engine for a few minutes. I had the battery tested and they said it was good. I have a header close to the starter which I realize can heat up the copper coils in the starter making it harder for the starter to crank. The starter is a high torque starter, and the battery is basically a cheap one. Should I replace my battery with a 800 CCA battery, will this stop the horrible loud knock I sometime hear from the starter? I have wrapped the header with lava tape in an effort to keep the starter cool. What is making the very loud knock?? Thanks, Mark

Does anyone have experience with the "max lube" type hydraulic lifters; they have a "flat" machined on the side to allow additional oil to run down to the interface between the cam lobe and the face of the lifter. I know Crower makes a variant of these. Thanks.

My block has been 0 decked. If I go with the HE262H cam with the increased lift over stock, need I have any concern about valve/piston interferences? I don't want any surprises when I start up the engine! Thanks for all the help.

What is the difference between the two lifters you recommend, the crane anti-pump up and the crower? What is a cheater lifter vs. a high lube they mention on the crower web site? Thanks for the info.

I have been using the zinc substitute they sell at O'Reilly auto parts. This engine has a Milodon 8 qt sump, so I have been using about 1.5 bottles of the O'Reilly stuff at my yearly oil change. I noticed comp cams sells a break in additive. Is it OK if I just go with the comp cams break in additive along with my synthetic Castrol when I replace the cam? After that, I was just planning on using the O'Reilly additive at every oil change.