WilliamFug

barnett, I think your box is full as I'm unable to send you a private message. Is there a way I can contact you. Perhaps send me your email address via private message?
 
Thanks,
 
John

70 convert, 302/auto, PS, PDB, orig working A/C. Motor to my knowledge has not been rebuilt, does not smoke, has alum 4 barrel intake and carb, but have orig 2 v intake/ carb. Trans was rebuilt several years ago, have receipt. New exhaust with factory exhaust manifolds. All Numbers matching, all original sheet metal, and rust free. Professionally painted by Triple F Automotive, spent roughly 10,000. Top was replaced 4-5 years ago and has 4 small 1/4" holes due to screw issues. Interior has new carpet, pad, and new seat covers. Factory am radio installed and still works.
Asking 23,500

I will start,
I got 2 more tires for the Mustang for the front to match the 2 on the rear,
 

 
I also got a Mustang t shirt, & a hoodie.
 

I have 4 center caps for magnum wheels ,they came off my old 71 429 CJ MacH 1 .They are in very good condition as i only had them on the car for car shows .They are original Ford .the wheels were the full chrome 15 inch magnums .Even the cork backing is in great shape on the backs .$100 for the set .Plus shipping .

Not exactly a How-to but....
 
 
Let me start off by saying that I am not selling a product or sponsored by anyone nor have any benefit by posting this.
 
I am currently active duty USMC, prior to this I was an ASE master tech for 10 years (still hold my certs and work on cars on the reg)
 
I have not had to replace too many brake lines at the dealership level, but consistently replaced them at the independent repair shops as well as my cars and projects.
 
Long story short, I recently plumbed my whole 1969 fastback with stainless lines and new fittings for 2008 front disc, stock rear 8" drums, FRPP prop valve, and tons and tons of care, busted knuckles and time with poor poor results. Almost every fitting leaked and some fluid ate the NEW FRESH PAINT off of my NEVER DRIVEN restorations.
 
I have always used the "traditional" flaring tools- simple kits with the small dies and T-handle with the bar that holds the brake lines. then you fight it and normally manage to make a crap flare.
 
I have used many many many different kits. I currently have a Matco double flaring 45 degree kit, and an OTC ISO (bubble) Flare kit. each kit was about 50-80 bucks (cant remember)
 
I recently decided to bite the bullet and buy the 199 dollar Inline Tube kit
 
http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI70081-Brake-Flaring/dp/B004IKRO34
 
Its the same kit that Eastwood, K tools and a few others use/sell. Normally you see them 235 or so for the kit but some shopping can get you the kit for 200 shipped.
 
This is by far-the EASIEST-BEST quality flares I have ever made. I used to spend about 20-30 minutes per flare with the traditional method and now it takes less than 5 minutes. If you are starting with a fresh line you might have 2 minutes invested with a perfect, uniform flare.
 
Eastwood has some very informational "How to use" videos which are worth the watch.
 
I am still going to use my Stainless line but with 37 degree AN fittings and 3/16" Inverted flare to -3 AN adapters where needed. I bought the 37 degree adapter from eastwood for 95 bucks, so I have 300 invested and can do pretty much anything i need to now.
 
It was sooooooo easy that my wife flared a line with mild steel (her first time ever) in 5 minutes.
 
I have done quite a bit of research between this and the Mastercool hydraulic kit with a similar pricepoint. It can do all of this plus quick connect fittings (one benefit/selling point)
 
I have seen many reviews saying the hyd kit leaked or was very easy to over-flare the lines if you are not careful. The K-tool kits work best in a vise due to being somewhat cumbersome but thats a smaller price to pay than having a hyd hand tool that leaks and cant flare.
 
Anyway, I wanted everyone to know that I wish I had bought this tool 10 years ago (wasnt out and I was cheaper with money back then)
 
I have easily spent over the 200 bucks this initial investment wouldve been by purchasing sub-par traditional kits.
 
The only hints or advice I have for any line repair is to make 100% sure you file your line square and center your dies (K-tools auto centers by detent)
 
Im sure other ppl have different input about the traditional kits and great success but this is so much easier its worth it and you can sell the tool on ebay or something when done

...when i post some pictures ...i will update

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

Been trying to find time to work on the resto of my Mach and have come to the realization that I didn't build a big enough shop! A 24' x 26' shop is just not big enough for the resto of a car. Part of my time is consumed with tripping over crap, getting frustrated, and moving it from one spot, only to move it to another later. Anyway, over the Christmas break I got a little organized and resumed the disassembly of my car. Yesterday, I began the removal of the interior....more crap to trip over now. And jeez, where am I going to put those bucket seats now that they are out of the car...lol!
 
So, pulled up the carpet on the passenger side yesterday and found this:
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I'm the second owner of this car, having bought it with 51k miles on it from the original owner. I know everything I've ever done to this car, most of which I regret....i.e. cutting holes in the shock towers to facilitate greasing the upper A arms; cutting up the rear speaker shelf for placement of some 6x9 speakers, etc. Which reminds me; anyone know what this is?
 
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That's a Craig Power Play 8 Track deck that I personally installed around 1978. You weren't squat in the audio world back then with anything less than this! And, it also has the added amp....lol! To this day, I often hear a song come on the radio and reflect back to the first time I heard that song which, more often than not, was in my Mach on that Craig unit.  
 
Am surprised with the amount of sound deader materials in my car. Wondering if it was the norm. Lots of this under the carpet.
 
[/url]">http://http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/Aquamach/media/Mustang/P1030105_zpsqapwarii.jpg.html'>
 
Found a lot of coinage and such taking out the interior. Found an old card from a girlfriend long since past. Wonder where she is today? Found pictures in the form of old ID's that initially I did not recognize as self. Had hair then, a little thinner in the face too. A little thinner around the waste too. Gotta work on that...New Years thing!
 
Happy New Years!!!

the fuel mixture screws should always be set when the engine is up to operating temperature because this is where it will be operating at 99.999% of the time . adjusting them when the engine is cold serves zero purpose.

Must have if you are installing Deluxe Door panels. Original

This winter break, I have almost completed a 4 year or so restore of my old 69.  My dad got it for me in 80, I drove her for about 10 years, and put her "down" in the garage.  Didn't stay much outside, dad kept her for me for years, then kids, and when the boys turned teen, I brought her out and began the restore.
 
I've taken a TON of help from the kind people on this forum - which I am greatly appreciative of, and I've finally brought everything into a near final condition.  I haven't posted many pics up to now, but I feel like with the addition of the final side stripes, and new wheels/tires, this old girl is ready for prime time.
 
After a big push over this holiday season, with fantastic help and encouragement from my son who is home from college, we have these pics from today:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Original throttle cable bracket.

That's a beauty of a Mach 1, Mike.  verrry nice!  Are those 16's or 17's on the wheels?

This beautiful 1970 Ford Mustang Mach I with a built 428 Super Cobra Jet, 4-speed Toploader, disc brakes and power steering has just completed a full top to bottom restoration and has less than 100 miles on the restoration. A true Mach 1, this car started life as a 351 automatic car and had the 428 SCJ and Toploader swapped in by the previous owner. I purchased the car in 2004 and began the restoration that same year. As she spends most of her time in my garage, it is time to send her to a new home where her legs will be stretched regularly. Clean and clear Florida title in hand.
 
ENGINE:
 
The 428 was built by Bill's Speed Shop out of Fuquay-Varina, NC and features TRW .060 pistons with big valve cuts, a Crower solid lifter cam shaft, ported intake, polished Lemans rods, FPP rockers, stands, spacers and pushrods, shell lifters, steel roller timing chain, windage tray, 8 qt Milodan oil pan and ARP bolts. The motor also had all the necessary machine work done. The rear of the block prominently features the 'C' scratch mark, which indicates that it is a reinforced block used for 428CJ/SCJ's. I have added a Pertronix Stage III distributor with electronic ignition and a new Pertronix Flamethrower coil. The motor is fed by a Carter electric fuel pump and is topped by a Holley Double Pumper.
 
TRANSMISSION/REAR END:
 
The 4-speed Toploader has been rebuilt, is tight, rows the gears smoothly and features a Hurst shifter. The power is transferred to the pavement via a Ford 9" rear end with a 3.55 Detroit Locker.
 
SUSPENSION:
 
This Mach sits on a brand new suspension featuring a set of Shelby 1" drop springs (550#) on new spring perches and 1" lift shackles in the rear for a more aggressive stance. The bushings have all been replaced with urethane bushings and everything is tight throughout. The front shocks are KYB-GR2's, which when paired with the Shelby drop springs, makes for a great handling combination. The rear shocks are also KYB-GR2s.
 
BRAKES:
 
The front brakes have been converted to disc brakes with new rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. The factory soft rubber brake lines have been replaced by braided stainless steel lines. The rears are still drum brakes, however they have been rebuilt with new shoes and wheel cylinders.
 
STEERING:
 
This Mach has been converted to a power steering car with all of the necessary proper original Ford 428 pulleys and brackets being sourced from specialty suppliers. The power steering ram is brand new, as are all of the power steering high and low pressure lines. The car also had a recent alignment and drives straight and true.
 
WHEELS/TIRES:
 
The front Magnum 500's are brand new, while the rears are a little older and show a little wear (though that's only noticeable when you look closely for it). The front tires are brand new as well with less than 100 miles on them, while the rear tires have around 1,000 miles on them and are a little older. Plenty of tread left on the tires though.
 
GLASS:
 
The front windshield is brand new and looks fantastic. The rear glass is original Ford and is also in excellent shape. The rear quarter windows are in great shape and feature old school Holman-Moody race stickers (easily removable if desired). The door glass is in good shape, however the driver's side window does have a mark on it where I was told by the previous owner that a rock was thrown at it. The passenger side window also has a few small marks on it as well, though since this car does not have air conditioning, I rarely have the windows up and have never found this to be noticeable or an issue. As 70 was a bolt in door glass, replacement can be done quickly and inexpensively if so desired by the new owner.
 
INTERIOR:
 
The interior is in fantastic shape with freshly recovered seats (front and rear), a brand new OEM Ford tooling dash pad, new headliner and new deluxe door panels. The original rim blow steering wheel was refurbished and has a new switch installed. A custom Autometer gauge setup is located under the center section of the dash, which is covered in black vinyl that matches the seats nearly perfectly. Underneath the brand new carpeting is a sound deadening insulation (kind of like Dynamat).
 
The factory wiring harness was completely refurbished by Midlife and is in excellent shape. All the lights and gauges work, as does the AM radio. The Mach clock was working when I reinstalled it about a year ago, but now only works intermittently. I would imagine it's time for a quartz rebuild kit on it (~$100), or just leave it as is and enjoy the car as is. All of the lights have been converted to LED as well for a brighter display.
 
EXTERIOR:
 
The car was media blasted down to bare metal with any areas of rust being repaired. By and large, the car was in pretty solid shape after the media blasting. Torque boxes were installed to strengthen/stiffen the car and the driver's side floor pan was replaced along with a patch panel being installed on the driver's side lower rear quarter. After the metal work, the car was painted with a custom shade of dark grey metallic in base coat/clear coat. The paint is gorgeous and really pops in the sun due to all of the metal flake. There is a small paint chip on the passenger side headlight bucket from a rock. I've touched it up to make it less noticeable, but you can still see it in certain lights. The chrome bumpers front and rear are brand new and the front and rear window trim was refurbished by removing all of the dents and polishing out any scratches to a high shine. All other chrome parts were either cleaned up to look new or were replaced with new chrome.
 
OTHER INFORMATION:
 
Included with the sale is a second cowl panel painted the color of the car with holes drilled for the Autometer gauges that have been moved inside the cabin. This allows the gauges to be placed on the outside in direct line of sight and is ideal for drag racing. Also included with the sale is large box of spare and replacement parts, a binder of receipts and a full car car cover. Two sets of keys are also included with the sale.
There are too many other new or refurbished parts to include in this post, though all receipts from the restoration and some from the previous owner are available. She's an absolute head turner and gets looks and thumbs up everywhere I go. Additional pictures are available upon request. This Mach is located in the Southwest Florida/Fort Myers area and I am happy to help arrange for shipping. I hate to see her go, but it is time. Asking $36,900 or reasonable offer. Additional pictures can be found here - http://imgur.com/a/PmoiF.

That is too funny!! Did they send you a letter too requesting photos?I hate phoney people. LOL.  Oh well.  Looking a little closer, I noticed the rimblow switch is wavy in the channel. I wonder if it just the cheapest thing around. I may consider putting my original back in or I have a new OEM ford switch in the tube.
 
As for the circuit board....I went with the one CJPP has. If it doesnt work out, I will consider having Midlife make a custom harness.

I need to order some parts for the rear end of my 69 351w with FMX tranny 3.00 rear end. Everything is original. Is there a easy way to tell if I have a large or small bearing with out having to take the axle apart?

As the title says. What's everyone's favorite detailing products, companies and tricks? Also what products, companies and tricks do you hate. Explaining is a must! Although to each his/her own. I've recently been wanting to try adams polishes, I keep reading how it's too expensive compared to chemical guys but I looked up the closest products and noticed only about $5 difference but with a 110% guarantee I can't see why not try it out.

They said Californie was the place you need to be ...Swimming pools ,and movie stars 

Well Mike, if I had done the repairs back in 1999 when this project was started it would have been metal finished. However, since there is body filler all around that area I went ahead and used some Bondo. It's only 1/8" max there which is acceptable. I thought about welding in a small piece of metal but didn't want to possibly heat the filler and have it fail later.

So, I couldn't figure out how to remove the mirror and control mechanism from my mirror housing, so I just taped it up. However, my painter, smart guy that he is figured it out in no time. There was a thread on here a while back, but I think it was inconclusive. Anyway, here's how; it's quite easy.
 

 
The wires has hooks in the end.
 

 
Just push down the control joystick and unhook the wires. Voila!
 

 
The rest of the mirror mechanism comes out like the passenger side mirrors, so they can be disassembled for paint.

Hi,
I have an aftermarket hood with a mach style scoop mounted. Holes were not cut for signals, but I have the template. I've decided I would rather have a shaker set up.
I have the scoop grill, 302 emblems too.
Located in Greensburg pa. $300 or best offer. I all send pics if interested.

In 1989 I bought my 1st car a H-code (351W) 1970 Mach 1 for $1,995.  I worked on it through High School then life got in the way so we put it in a barn.  Now we are taking it down to bare metal and building it back.  It is a Texas car and IMO very solid but was mildly crashed before I owned the car (all hidden with filler-- but not nicely hidden).  Currently the body is straight and rust free (fingers crossed) except for 3 things.  
 
1. Drivers quarter panel-- The surface was in an accident, then pulled out and bondo filled in the damage
2. Drivers door -- Not the original door but it too has signs of damage hidden under 1/4" of bondo
3. Drivers rocker panel-- has a base ball sized dent in the center of the door- on the underside-- otherwise perfect.
 
Who do you recommend for replacement panels?
Should I skin a quarter panel or replace the whole thing?
On the Rocker Panel-- patch the damaged area or replace the whole thing?
 
Pics attached
 
Thanks for reading,
Brad
 
 

I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light.  The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off.  It does not light in either case.  I have checked the bulb and it is OK.  System charges fine at 14.4 volts.  I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style.  Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run?  Thanks so much for any help.
Mark

Hello and welcome to me, I am a proud owner of a 1969 Mustang Sports roof that has been modified from stock. I had a 69 Mustang while I was in high school and kept and worked on it for 10 yrs (was a decent car). However, the new wife and new kids coming along, plus the stoppage of selling leaded premium 110 octane fuel in California (where I was stationed at the time) caused me to sell my baby. Now years later with my last child leaving the nest I have another 69 in the Garage! I spent more money on this one but most of the heavy lifting was already completed when I bought it. Some of the things I have done to the car in the last 12 mo are.
 
Complete engine rebuild of the 351W. Boar was punched out .20 over, new pistons, polished crank, Balanced, Edelbrock RPM top end kit complete with Cam, heads, rockers, etc...
 
Uni Steer power rack and pinion steering system installed
 
15" stock magnum looking rims (wider in the rear) with the ole BF Goodrich TA's.
 
Going for the Mach 1 look a like so added stripes painted hood and put window louvers, gas cap, etc.
 
Wilwood power disc brakes front and rear.
 
Aftermarket gauges and gauge package.
 
Aftermarket Air Conditioning
 
I have done more but you get the idea. Here are the future mods I am currently gathering parts for.
 
Switching the FMX for a beefed up T5z from Ford Racing.
 
Interior front seats upgrade with new aftermarket seats, my car did not have the fold down seat I plan on correcting that.
 
Killer stereo system/ alarm
 
Here are some pics of the car, I hesitate to show the "before" pics as the car looks very good and I am sure I will get some grief for messing with it, but please consider that my upgrades are still under construction and when I am done and post side by side pics the criticism will be better appreciated.
lol
 

I am looking for a 69-70 trunk lid that has little to no rust on the underside of it. 
if any info please email me at tainpeacock12345@gmail.com
I am located in New Jersey