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mustangmike6996 last won the day on June 9 2017

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About mustangmike6996

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  1. Ive been trying to figure out how those brackets go on for a lonnnnnnnnng time. Thanks for the pic!
  2. It's been a long couple months. Found metal in my oil. When I upgraded to the 351 roller retrofit cam, I missed the part about installing a 2-peice fuel pump eccentric. It wore into the timing cover and ate up the bearings. New set of bearings, checked clearances and assembled. I put some other goodies on it as well. It got a T-sump Canton oil pan and an Edelbrock water pump. Runs much better and cooler now. Oil looks good so far. I needed to replace a wheel stud and noticed a little play in the lower ball joint. They were new about 7 years ago and only have about 200 miles on them. So I need new lower ball joints or control arms. Any suggestions on replacements? Should I upgrade to an aftermarket product like Global West tubular What about replacing the ball joint by itself? Or getting a replacement lower control arm (which brand should I go with) I see Rare Parts, Precision, and Duralast (It looks like I might be able to get Moog for $55) are the only main options from parts stores. What about boxing in the lower control arms myself? Is it worth it?
  3. It isn't "adjustable" exactly but you can shim the pickup tube to be lower into the pan if you get a deeper sump pan. Some pans will recommend a special pickup designed for that pan.
  4. I finally got the 4 speed shifter linkage adjusted properly. The car shifts like butter now. Took it on a few mile cruise. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of gauges. Leaning towards New Vintage still. Any other input?
  5. The MIG (shielded gas) is far better than Fluxcore. The only benefit of Fluxcore is being able to weld outdoors where there is wind. Wind can blow the shielding gas away and leave a dirty weld. I like the way MIG with .030 wire flows. If both surfaces are prepared correctly and clean then you can lay a strong bead down. A strong bead that isn't all boogered up
  6. I found a great price on a used Lincoln 220v welder on Craigslist. If you keep your eye open you can get a nice 110v MIG (stay away from the cheap Harbor Freight flux core welder). For the small cost of the welder, it will pay for itself and you can sell it once you are done using it. As for freshening up the frame/engine bay, clean all of the rust you can now. Use etching primer and paint the engine bay. Its not only for looks but it is to prevent the spread of more rust. I would suggest not going with a gloss paint (I made that mistake)
  7. mwye0627, are you located in the Metro Detroit area?
  8. Yes it is a 7805 Voltage reg with capacitors from input and output to gnd. I did it as more of a trial to bypass the stock bimetallic constant regulator. Seemed to work so far.
  9. I installed my homemade voltage regulator on the instrument cluster, partial success. Still having some issues but at least some of the gauges work lol.
  10. I ended up removing the upper dash pad today to troubleshoot the IP cluster. No gauges work and the lights are inop. I have voltage at the AAW connector as well as ground. I think the voltage regulator took a crap and possibly the printed circuit. I am going to attempt to build a solid-state regulator. I might upgrade to the New Vintage USA gauges though. They are local and I have a set of them in my 1951 Ford F1. I like them but they are pricey.
  11. I understand this but there are not too many other options for a clean install. The Tstat and cooling fan switch are very close to the same temp so as soon as the Tstat opens the temp switch gets the "new" hotter coolant. I could put the switch in the intake and move the sender to the Tstat housing if I run into cooling problems.
  12. Tuff Stuff 1 wire 100 amp alt. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-70686g/applications/make/ford/model/mustang T stat housing http://www.cjponyparts.com/thermostat-housing-with-threaded-port-260-289-302-351w-1965-1973/p/TH16/
  13. What difference do you notice with the roller idler arm?
  14. I installed an electric cooling fan on my 2 core radiator. It pulls a ton of CFM. I have not taken the car on a very long trip yet but it seems to keep the car cool at idle in the driveway. I installed a different Tstat housing with a NPT bung where I installed the temp switch.
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