Cason

I too do not claim to be an expert (so others could chime in) but often a big problem is telling the FE engines apart when assembled. My understanding is the 427 is the only FE with screw in freeze plugs and all 427's have 4 bolt mains via cross bolted main caps. (NOTE: I have heard rumors of a few police issue 390's having these features but no proof and numbers are so few that it is a non issue) Bore and stroke wise the 427 is more of a square bore "revver" while the 428's are smaller bore stump pullers. The 390 historically was a "truck" motor put into the Mustang. Stock it was not a match for a 396 Camaro or Chevelle. Also with the 427's you have side, center and top oilers that all look identical. The 427 was also very popular in the marine and industrial side of the business so just because it is a 427 does not mean it is a "High Performance" engine. The good news is If you have a 427 (or any of the others) you can build it to be as high performance as your wallet can handle. Case

Whose paint did you shoot (PPG/ Dupont/ Other) ? I think it was mixed correctly b/c Attached are two photos of the factory early 1970 Dark Ivy Green Met on my car. Looks like you nailed it. Cason

After reading everyone's input -- and looking at Lato racing's attached pic (and taking an hour or two looking at his build thread) -- We are going to first try to only replace what needs to be replaced-- the first 2 feet of the drivers quarter via skin. If we don't like the results we can still do a complete quarter. This way we attempt to keep as much factory metal as possible. The door will get a new skin (removed with an 80g flap disc around the edges of the door) as well as the outer rocker panel. I hope to start a build thread, this month we will try to get the drive train out so we can get ready for media blasting.

Yes, my guess is that is from a puller-- this whole area was hidden under bondo. as you can tell the holes were not sealed, the inside had strings of bondo coming through the holes. This repair was "completed" sometime before 1989 so techniques may have changed over the years :)

OK, 2 votes for complete quarter replacement. I am leaning that direction. Technically, what does one gain by doing the whole quarter vs the skin?

In 1989 I bought my 1st car a H-code (351W) 1970 Mach 1 for $1,995. I worked on it through High School then life got in the way so we put it in a barn. Now we are taking it down to bare metal and building it back. It is a Texas car and IMO very solid but was mildly crashed before I owned the car (all hidden with filler-- but not nicely hidden). Currently the body is straight and rust free (fingers crossed) except for 3 things. 1. Drivers quarter panel-- The surface was in an accident, then pulled out and bondo filled in the damage 2. Drivers door -- Not the original door but it too has signs of damage hidden under 1/4" of bondo 3. Drivers rocker panel-- has a base ball sized dent in the center of the door- on the underside-- otherwise perfect. Who do you recommend for replacement panels? Should I skin a quarter panel or replace the whole thing? On the Rocker Panel-- patch the damaged area or replace the whole thing? Pics attached Thanks for reading, Brad