Caseyrhe

Happy & Healthy New Year back to you & everyone else here.

At this time every year Facebook sends me a reminder of a post I sent to all a few years ago to start the New Year. So every year since I repost it to help remind me to count my blessings. So I thought I'd share with you these words of wisdom from the one and only C. B. ....Wishing everyone a happy and healthy New Year!

RPM, I have Marti Report Deluxe, it says nothing about shaker but it has very scarce technical information. Do I need wider, Elite report? Here is my car. 
 
 

Merry Christmas Casey, Phil, Mike, and the rest of you guys who make this an enjoyable place. Hope y'all have a wonderful day with your family and friends. 

Merry Christmas guys!!

Merry Christmas guys!!

Merry Christmas guys!!

Not that this helps much, but it could be this:

If you still have the original rear end you can use that to make a fixture that will align the mounts and also give you the correct pinion angle.

I got a couple of spare tires, located just above my belt.  Unfortunately, they are not space savers by any definition...*sigh*
Sorry I can't help you further.

Well, you've got the right attitude Brian. I just got back from a 4,400 mile road trip in my 69 and met many wonderful people. Unlike what we hear on TV and radio, most people are good to the bone. 

A couple of the rubbers were missing from the window limiting stops so i went and bought a selection of vacuum caps at my local supplier.
After matching the cap to the bracket i sprayed it with a little silicone and then warmed it with my heatgun. They fit quite tightly as the heat allows it to stretch and then constrict when cool. 
Probably will outlast the car.
In the pic the original is in the middle and the ones on either side of it are the ones i did. . In my opinion its better than wrapping tape around it.
Hope this helps someone who runs into this situation.
John 

I installed the 9 inch last week.  Pretty much everything is new except for the leaf springs, which i cleaned up and painted to match the rest.  Just need to finish running the brake and e-brake lines and fill it up with fluid.  Then on to the TKX swap!
Currie 9inch
31 Spline Axles Sportsman Nodular Iron Gear Case 3.50 Gears (Polished) Eaton Truetrac Posi 1350 Nodular Iron Yoke Wilwood 11" Dynapro/D/S/Red Powder Coat, Gloss Black Calvert Racing CalTracs Traction Bars
Koni Special Adjustable Shocks

Buying parts is most times a crap shoot.  Quality parts soon get a reputation as such.  One supplier may not have the best products out there.  I did use TMI for my 69 upholstery w/buns.  It been a few years and things do change.  I suggest you take a look at these guys for your door panels. https://mustangmarket.com/

Got my rear bracket made and fitted up.  What a huge difference in how sturdy it is now!  I took me maybe 2 hours to make both brackets out of aluminum stock I got from Ace Hardware.
Now to get my hood and see how the whole thing fits...or not....
 
 

Nice weather in North Carolina today, so did some painting

To hell with the Mustangs, does your wife have an identical twin who's single? 

..........
Owning 2.
Had one in bright yellow since 1995.
Recently stumbled upon a local add (70 miles away is considered local, right?) for one which is light ivy yellow with black Landau top. Showed the pictures on the add to my wife and said "it looks like the one we have". She said "you are going to buy it right?" I said "I do not have room left in the shop to store it". She said "I'll have a yard sale and empty your old shop" (she has been using my old 2 car shop as storage to store stuff we do not need). So I bought it (and yes she emptied the old shop, almost empty).
Does not need a lot of rust repairs, most seen on the pictures is surface rust (no rust through on the roof under the Landau top). 351W 2V, PS, PDB. racing mirrors. Still in original factory paint besides the front fenders and the hood. It shows 76072 miles (might be original miles as it still has a Ford muffler with C9ZA-5230 stamped on it).Has the Landau top trim. Has seats from SN95 with power lumbar (which is not connected). So I pushed the 70 vert  I was working on a side and started taking this one apart. Vert needs a lot of sheet metal work including 3 frame rail replacements due to mouse pee eating up the metal. 

Here are some photos of the Dakota Digital gauge swap, before and after.
Dakota Digital VHX
Original Gauges:

New Gauges:

New Gauges Installed:

New Gauges Installed and On:

And some "fun facts", or if someone is planning how to spend some quality time during winter :).
My labour hours up to blocked spray filler and already done some parts restoration:
Total labour hours (h) 938,5 Disassembly (h) 44 Body 20 Drivetrain 7 Interior 6 Miscl 11     Paint stripping (h) 77 Fenders 9 Sandblasting 4 Body 37 Prep for primer 10 Trunk lid 2 Headlights buckets, cowl grille, valances 7 Hood 5 Outside painted trim 1 Mirrors 2     Bodywork (h) 342 Underbody 22 Torque boxes replacement 24 Antena delete 2 R door - skin fabrication and repair 22 Fender 3 Shock tower repair and reinforcement 9,5 Rear frame reinforcement 3 Battery holder and window rim 8 Right floor pan 20 Roof 2 Left floor pan 23,5 Rear frame 8 Subframe Connectors 9 Rear fender L 17 Seat platforms 10 Rear fender R 17 Quarter panel R 17 Roof / Front glas rim 27 Drip rails 12 Dent pulling 8 Quarter panel L 8 L door 27 Trunk lid 16 Hood 5 Front light buckets 15 Hood Scoop cutouts 4 Valances 3     Prep and Paint (h) 150 Preparation and transport for blasting 2 Setup after blasting 2 Primer after blasting 4 Rear seam sealer and antigravel 5 Engine bay sanding and battery holder 4 Seam sealer 8 Primer repair engine bay 8 Antigravel 4 Acryl engine bay and underbody 5 Repair of primer after bodywork 8 Acryl - rear underbody 4 Trunk area 13 interior blackout acryl 3 Sanding for spray filler 11 Primer repair after Fillers, rockers and Quarters 15 Fenders prep and primer 7,5 Doors and hinges 12 Primer doors and fenders 8 Anti Gravel and acryl fenders 5 Hood 8 Mirrors 1,5 Front and rear valance 12     Body filler (h) 276 Filler roof 16 Filler R quarter panel 15 Filler L quarter panel 10 Filler R rocker panel 7 Filler L rocker panel 5 Body finishing and cleaning 7 Rear extensions 2 Trunk lid 18 Spray filler - body 6 Sanding spray filler 57 R door 12 Back end 6 L door 20 R Fender 10 L Fender 13 Door and fender alignment 16 Spray filler fenders, trunk lid and doors 17 Valances 4 Hood 14 Spray filler hood 5,5 Light buckets 10 Spray filler, valances, light buckets and cowl 5,5     Various restoration (h) 39 Door hinges 7 Miscl 1,5 Derusting bolts and parts 2 Steering column 11 Trunk lid springs 1 Door locks 2 Headlights buckets 5 Passenger side mirror 4 Door mechanism (cleaning, restoring) 4 stainless window moulding 2 driver seat 1,5     Drivetrain restoration(h) 4 Rearend restoration 3 Front end restoration 1         Installation - Assembly (h) 6,5 fuel line install 1 brake line install 3,5 Preassembly front 2     Parts fabrication 27  

After exchanging some lessons learned with Rich, I modified my shaker to rotate it so that the front indent in the base was correctly oriented to clear my distributor and ignition wires. With my particular base, which is a 351W fiberglass reproduction, I cut the 3 studs off the base, and aligned my shaker top so that it was "straight".   I then drilled new holes in the base to align with the holes in the midplate.   For now , I will use some 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to secure it.  Long term, plan to epoxy some T-Nuts on the base and use 1/4" bolts on top.
More to come..... 
Thanks, Rich....
 

I'll bet this hasn't been asked on the forum:
Why did the tomato blush?
 
 
 
He saw the salad dressing.

https://images.app.goo.gl/8zDhWejB16zHcaaN8

The 16:1 radio box may be heavy at really low speeds below 5-10 mph, but they are perfect with great feel above that. I'm an old, out of shape 65 year vintage guy who had no trouble using a 16:1 as a manual box with 245s and 7° caster. Girlie boys like Lalojames might struggle with the 16:1 box. :)

but think of the fun if you lend her a hand...as it were