winifredng69

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

Putting my Mach up for sale. Its a 69 Mach1 non matching numbers car. Fresh paint, interior, wheels tires. Car was original ps/pb/ac car. A/C gone still has correct heater box. Car is not numbers matching has a 351C with C6 now both already gone through. 9inch posi with 3:25 gears. I do have original build sheet that was found under carpet when restoration was done. Car is a Cali/New Mexico car no rust. located in Albuquerque NM. Show quality paint. Asking $38,500. I will post pictures shortly. Calypso Coral with black interior.

Look like the put some effort into the car and are having plenty of fun.
 

Driving down the freeway yesterday doing about 75 and all of a sudden no throttle response.  Gave the pedal a little pump, no response, might have been a pop from the carb, checked the gauges, oil, temp, and voltage are all good.  By this time the motor is turned off, I am in neutral , coasting and looking for a place to pull over.  Get off the freeway, park, try a restart and another back fire, continues to crank and no sign of starting.  Called AAA, got the rig home, in the carport, shaker off and the hood open.  From the drivers seat I can see the carb. and give the pedal a pump, turn the key and backfire through the carb.  So while still not sure what's up I take the dist. cap off, hand turn the crank to TDC (actually 10 degrees BTC) and note the rotor location.  Rotor is pointed at #7 cyl.( 5 o'clock).  Rotate another 360 degrees and it comes up #4 cyl. ( 11 o'clock).  The correct rotor position should be at #1 cyl. and 1 o'clock.  Timing is off and the dist. hold down is tight so it isn't jiggleing around.. Took one valve cover off and again hand turned the crank to check the valve train/cam.  Checked out OK every position is going up and down.   Pretty much a stock FE configuration without unusual  mods and the most recent work was a new starter motor..  Before going any further I like to hear some thoughts on what I have uncovered so far ?  Thanks, Brian

Just toying with the idea of plasti dipping my hood in the mach1 style . Anyone used this product? How long does it last and does it fade .

Ray I like your sense of humor. If I am ever up your way I will look you up and we will go to the local bar and have a few beers on me.
 
Dave

1970 Sportsroof, currently 302W and C4
What would I need to bolt in a FE engine (390 in this case)?
Anyone gone down this road and regretted it?
 
I'm guessing a C6 might be required or is thereT5 conversion parts available?

I need some help with an overheating issue that I am having. I have a 69 R code Mach that is driving me crazy. Car is all original with automatic transmission and air-conditioning. Less than 50 miles on the rebuilt motor, and the radiator and cooling system were completely gone through. It has a 160 thermostat and is running the factory stock carb.
It has been very hot here in Georgia, and normal street driving sees my engine temperature running around 180-190 mark, per the dash thermostat. Within 15 seconds of turning on the air conditioning, the temperature climbs up near the 220 zone, per the dash thermostat. Needless to say, I shut it off before it gets too hot. I have used a heat gun to check the radiator and thermostat housing temperatures.
Normal running condition has heat gun readings around the 180 – 190 range. Again, when I throw in the AC switch, the radiator and thermostat housing readings quickly hit to 220°. I will be checking the jets on the carb later in case the previous owner had changed them out. I have already checked the timing and it is perfect. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
 

Does anyone else have a rectangular clock in their 69'? I see in 69' Mach 1 the clock is round, but I have a convertible, & so far I haven't seen another clock like this in another 69'. Just curious if it was a special option?

This original tilt steering is in outstanding shape.
I bought this thinking I wanted to put it in my Coupe but as time went on, I changed my mind. I enjoy driving my car without it.
 
Make me a reasonable offer.
Buyer pays actual shipping.
 
Already have it ready for shipping in a very thick/rigid cardboard tube with wooden caps.
 
Thanks
Bill
You can PM,call or text me if you prefer
3368167165
 
 

I can't even comprehend what that would be like to live in, such a different climate to here. But we are hoping to experience it before too long, looking at doing a road trip in an RV across a fair chunk of your country, either in Nov/Dec but is now looking like it'll be Feb next year as it's a fair bit cheaper to travel at that time.
 
Hope the good weather continues for you anyway, get lots done!

New in the box, Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil, for V8's. $75 obo shipped in the continental U.S.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

I refuse! Weather has kept me from working on it, but I've been buying parts lol.

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

I need to replace both the radiator support assembly and the driver's side front fender apron on my 69 Mach. I've purchased parts from Dynacorn ( radiator support with crossmember) to do this and while I have some idea about what's involved here, I'd like a more comprehensive and detailed video or article on it. Can anyone advise? 
 
Thanks,
 
John 

So, my headlights are uber dim. On top of that when I hit the high beams they turn on all 4 lights, but start surging/blinking on for a second off for a second (repeat). When I take the high beams off it is just 2 dim headlights that don't shine any further than 10ft. So, I bought some LED headlights that are supposed to be 3-4x brighter and they are also dim. I'm guessing I'm not pulling enough power. I don't know how to fix that problem. New wiring harness? New alternator? All or none of the above?

I've seen a few posts with people who either made or want a tail light that follows the contour of the rear panel. Ran across this by chance today, thought I'd post it for any who might be interested:
 
 
http://www.brightlight-customs.co.uk/1969.html
 
https://youtu.be/TpI5Y421EJo
 
 

 
 

All parts + shipping from 49201

MAKE OFFERS!
E-brake pedal assembly, $35
(2) Gas pedal assemblys, restored, excellent $50 each
Brake pedal assy, power, restored, excellent $100
Brake pedal assembly,manual, restored, excellent $75
Glue-in fastback door glass $100 each
Fastback Rear window $150
(2) 69 lower dash assemblys $50 each
(4) Quarter windows $30 each
Front bumper brackets, blasted, painted, excellent $40 pair
9†drum to drum rear w/3.25 trac lock (missing drums) $600
Speed Control Module $75
(2) 69 steering columns $40 each
(2) Wiper motors w/wiper arm assy $40 each
Rear tie down plates, blasted, painted, excellent $40 -SOLD
Brake Distribution block $50
C4 transmission mount, blasted, painted, excellent $40
FMX/C6 transmission mount blasted, painted, excellent $60 -SOLD
Front sway bar w/hardware, new aftermarket, $50
Rear sway bar w/hardware, new aftermarket $50
Hood hinge, passenger side, blasted, painted, excellent $40-SOLD
Rear bumper brackets, blasted, painted, excellent $30 pair
front window mouldings $100
(2) rear metal package trays (non folddown) $50 each
(2) hood latches, blasted painted, excellent $30 each
trunk latch $20

An a/c issue thread reminded me I had 5 cans of this freon, and no use for them. I laughed when I saw the prices on ebay. Anybody have an R12 system here?

By the way, you deserve the Dope Slap I've discussed before for reversing the coil leads to the distributor.  *G*

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

I did a search and didn't really see any direct posts about doing a 3G alt conversion.  I think I want to go with an electric cooling fan so I figured this project would be needed first.  I've ordered a PA Performance kit that replaces the external regulator and keeps your Ampmeter from burning out.  Tomorrow I'm going to the year to hunt for rabbits... I mean a 130amp Taurus or Windstar alternator (and a Contour dual fan).
 
My question for all you knowledgeable and experience folks.  Is on the charging wire.  I see a large variety of options out there.  I was thinking of getting the Summit Racing 6 gauge line for $24.  However it doesn't have a fuse.  Is a fuse between the alternator and battery really necessary?  If I get a 130amp Alt won't I need like a 150amp fuse?
 
Any other advice on this mod would also be appreciated.  I read on another forum some people have to grind the case a little due to pulley clearance issues, anyone run into this?
 
Thanks as always for the help/advice.

Anybody going next weekend? June 24-25-26.

On my 69 Mach One 351W with stock ignition, points and condensor. The Ultra Lite series tach is in a 6 gauge bezel and the other gauges work. 
 
I installed it as per the instructions:
 
12v fused power, which it has,
Source feed wire from the negative coil post, 
A good ground, which servers as the ground for other working parts on the car.
 
All of the wires have continuity and power when the engine is running.
The engine starts right up, and runs smooth.
All of the connections, wires and routing have been checked 6 plus times.
I ran additional separate wires from the harness for the 12v power, coil wire and ground w/o success.
I hooked up a break in stand tach I had using separate wiring w/o success.
I bought a 3rd tach in case the first 2 were bad, it didn't work either.
Bought and tried a second coil, no luck
Every connection and wire crimp has been checked several times.
 
I switched the coil wire from the negative post to the positive post on my break in stand tach and it worked properly.
I hooked up the Auto Meter tach to the positive coil post, no tach needle movement.
I called Auto Meter who said the wire connects to the negative coil post. If connected to the positive it will burn up the tach.
 
Everything I've read or heard has the coil negative post used for the tach. Until this experience I've always thought tach wiring was a close second to hooking up the battery for ease of installation on these cars. I'm beginning to think I really don't need a tach in the car. 
 
Has anyone had a similar experience or ideas? I'm open to any and all suggestions, other than what I've already tried many times. 
 
Thanks.