JayEstes

Got bored with body work and felt the need to do something that made me feel like this resto would eventually be a driver so time to make something shiney.
So new carpet and new chrome trim (Dii Corvex) on the sports deck rear seat and now wrapped in bubble wrap and put away.
I could not get the carpet sitting nice on the floor piece that faces into the trunk - on the pre 69 they have the chrome trim.  Mainly as I have no way to staple steel at hand in reality.  Since the trim kit suits 65-70 I used the early piece to finish it.
The Dii chrome trim is actually nice, lined up with the existing holes quite well.  I would recommend it.

Jay:
I forgot your PayPal account name...what is it again?  *G*

Thanks MTF! This worked. I was able to grab 2 threads with the tool and pull it up just enough to grab a couple more threads.. all sandwiched together now 

Before I would cut it out I would run a tap through it first,  then use your tool and try to reset it .

Yep, we certainly aren't building watches.

Thanks.  I might touch base with him.

Who...me??  Never heard of him...*G*

Heres my advice.  Just pull all your wiring and send it to MidLife for rework.  All the connectors will be original (AND THEY WILL WORK). buying rewiring kits, and mainly the BS associated with making them work is stupid as long as MidLife is around.   Don't re-wire you car - just get MidLife to fix it.  Probably less cost... 1000% easier!

Rewire? I'm pretty sure that Midlife guy who posted above has a contact in refurbished wiring harnesses. Pretty darn reasonable on the pricing as well. 

Ok here's the deal,. If you currently have a standard 3 row big tube rad and it is not plugged up, and your engine is properly tuned but it runs hot at cruising speed, and and you want a copper brass rad. A  $600.00 standard rad will NOT properly cool it and you will have to buy a high efficiency one, and probably one with the multi pass option.
You also must run a high flow water pump and brass milodon high flow thermostat if you use a rad that is bigger than stock if you want to get the most benefit from it.
If your car never runs hot with the current rad, even in the summer with the ac on, there is no need to change the rad.
An aluminum rad is far less expensive but obviously they don't look original.

Real nice work Kris. PDQ also, you don't mess around. 

Silicone based or white lithium for rubber. Both will penetrate the outer layer of the butyl (without wearing it down) and prevent the squeaking. Do not use petroleum based lubricants on rubber, it WILL cause premature break-down.
Poly bushings are stronger long term, but they will squeak a lot more if not properly lubricated. For poly, use petroleum or oil based
 

When I replaced the outer wheel houses on my 69 Coupe I had to find the seam where the inner & outer wheel houses joined so I used a soldering torch on a cylinder of MAP gas like you would use on copper water pipe. I heated the undercoating & used a putty knife & scraped off as much as I could to find the seam. https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Instant-On-Off/TS4000?gclid=CjwKCAjw4KD0BRBUEiwA7MFNTUbOEAnt5Esd1-DLa1Mxn5ljg1Exr2t0ukEDi_wa2BEBtHIUQ83YzRoC4ckQAvD_BwE
https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Fuel-Cylinders/Hand-Torch-Cylinders/MG9

If you run the brake line inside the tunnel like Ford did when they built the car, it will be away from the exhaust and there won't be any issues. If you keep the line like you have now, your exhaust may boil your brake fluid. Only way to know for sure is to measure the temperature of the line when the exhaust is hot to see if the temperature gets to your brake fluid's boiling temp or not.

+1 Brake line is not installed correctly.

Move the strike out! Brilliant! I never would have thought of that. Thanks Shep69 and 69RavenConv it worked.

Did you check to see if the catch locks twice? Might be that it locks once and not twice causing the gap.

I had the same issue . Move the striker out Not in . I know this sound crazy but it’s like Aslanefe said above it’s a double acting latch and your probably only got the first bit started. 

That's the PRNDL lamp wire.  Trust me on this!

check the shift shaft seal on the trans.

Spraying foot powder on the engine/ trans can help find the source of the leak.

1.59 in South Carolina:)

Hi mate, no, just the garage. The back wall joins the downstairs living room. I have been working on the misses to nock it to give me more display room. So far I'm not winning that one. I need to keep working on it. Still not likely.

Wow.  amazing work - spoiler LED is awesome.  Now forgive me for being nosey, but that "garage" you've pulled her into... looks more like a living room!?  Maybe you just knocked the wall between garage and living room down?  Congrats if that's simply the garage - nicest one I've seen in awhile.

Take it out, clean it and lube up the moving parts with wheel bearing grease. Also check the tension on the lock and door rods. I ran into the same issue, once I greased them up and made sure the tension was minimal at rest with the pull rods, they work like a champ.