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Hux

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Hux last won the day on January 21 2017

Hux had the most liked content!

About Hux

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/27/1964

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  • Location
    Brisbane Australia
  • Interests
    Cars, Golf, 4WD's and Camping

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473 profile views
  1. Thanks...looks like I’m on the look out for a good one.
  2. Thanks - they appear identical to my eye. Anyone able to say if there is a difference?
  3. Hi folks I stripped my quarter extensions off my 70. One is marked a 70 part number and is die cast metal. The other is a 69 part number and appears to be a plastic? I gather neither are orginal to the car as the boot lid is yellow under the bad red paint job. What are they normally - die cast or plastic or is it jus different between the years?
  4. 428 FE is cooler than a 408 Windsor lol
  5. Realistically you need to pull under 4000rpm for 100mph in 5th. That is eas8ly achievable. Go whatever and it will work
  6. I didn’t know that. Thanks for the tip. I’ll be doing that for sure. I move seat platform back 2” I’m only 6’5”
  7. Haha. Little doubt there with young Mike. the apple hasn’t fallen far from the tree
  8. So Is the car otherwise original? really not sure what you are trying to achieve is it originality or power? M code was 300hp measured in gross flywheel no accessory load etc. if you want power you need to say how much more you want Is it an arbitrary 30p fwhP as that isn’t anything magical. I have never seen anything that discussed what an m code actually delivered or performed like when new. Why don’t you dyno the car and see just what the current combo delivers before worrying about it. With the Cam, intake and exhaust and it’s probably doing as well as the old stock combo. if you put on the 4v you will need blue thunder intake and a decent cam to wake it up and then be in for roller rockers new valves springs etc etc. & before you know it you’ve dropped $3-4k. And most people will be asking why you just didn’t put on a set of alloy 3vs good luck ps personally my M code is staying with the 4vs but with a 408 stroker kit and a SCM manifold so it looks stock but should run way over 400 fwhp with a relatively mild cam.
  9. Get the sump off - only way you will see what’s come adrift. Something has gone wrong down in there and it will cost a lot more if you proceed to start up..
  10. Pedal conversion to hydraulic master cylinder should be no different. Modern Driveline has the gear. I have not fitted mine yet but very nice - blend of willwood parts and their own from what I can see. Slave cylinder just do to the concentric slip on type - again Modern have them for top loader. I’m running Cleveland with Aussie bellhousing so it is a bolt on slave.
  11. Is it a concourse show car? You will no doubt loose points for deviation if you do. Fold down seat, tach dash and shaker hoods are all desirable for most IMHO and although having them on the Marti would deliver best resale I bet no-one would ever pay less (except for the concourse car) if you had these on an otherwise original car (except I wouldn’t cut a genuine good hood). I am biased though as I am doing exactly this on my Mach 1 (70). I really wanted these features as its the look I love and I have sourced the genuine parts (except for the shaker) to convert it. Craig
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