JayEstes

A reliable tire choice for the 69 and 70 Mustangs in the 15 inch range is
front- 225/60/15 on a 15x7 (4.25" BS)
rear 255/60/15 on a 15x8 (4"BS)
 
Plenty of room at the rear for bigger.  I run 275/60/15 rears on my 70 with no rub. (225/60/15 front)  Seems that the 235 tire is sometimes a tiny bit too wide for 'some ' 69's  but it depends on a lot of factors like manufacturing tolerances, lowering mods, collision repairs etc.  Fender rolling cures it for most, but not all. 

Go to electric Fans from a Cougar or a Mestique or a Contour.... The dual fans have the PERFECT size shroud for the Champion 24" Radiator...Ask me how I know

As a novice I have managed to fix, or diagnose most of the electrical problems with my first Mustang, (a 70 coupe) and since then my second (a 69 Mach 1), using just a few tools.
The multimeter is the best tool, and as mentioned, get one with automatic shut-off, and audible continuity setting.  They are accurate, robust, and can help in many different ways.
The multimeter is perfect for wiring for lights, horns, indicators, anything that is powered, and has a switch to provide the power.  You can use it to test your battery, and your regulator. 
 
A quick and useful tool is the simple test light, which is like a sharp screwdriver with a ground wire hanging out of the handle.  Cheap, and when you clip the ground wire to a ground, (clean chassis metal, or negative battery terminal)  you can easily test your fuses (both ends), and any wire with 12 volt power. 
 
Many times you will need a way to put power into a test item, like a gauge, or a motor for a wiper, anything you have off the car.  For this you will have choice of a purpose built power supply (usually variable voltage)  or simply a good car battery with some big alligator clips on the terminals and small ones on the working ends.  You need to be careful with these ends.  Contacting them together will cause sparking and may damage your item with spikes and shorts.  Rubber coated or shrouded clips will help.  This will help with testing bulbs, especially the small instrument cluster bulbs and bulb holders, which always seem to be sketchy.  I went through about twenty holders and new bulbs to get solid, working sets in both Mustangs.  The 70 has the printed circuit board to power the instrument lights and gauges, for your information.  You also have the IVR - Instrument Voltage Regulator or also called CVR -Constant Voltage Regulator.  This unit breaks down the 12 volt feed to a 5 volt feed to power the gauges.  Remember that if working on gauges - don't use 12 volts direct.
 
For working on gauges and sending units, the Mustangs have a specific resistance range for both.  Ford use gauges and senders that show "full" at 10 ohms, and "empty" at 78 ohms.  Chevrolet use zero to 90 ohms, for reference.  Your temp, fuel and oil pressure gauges are all pretty much identical inside, and the senders are screwed in to the block, or in the gas tank, and are designed to vary their resistance according to changing temps. levels and pressures.  They can be tricky to understand at first, but once you realize how they work with the gauges, it starts to get easier, to diagnose and isolate the problem.
I made a cheap box with a variable ohms output, and two wires to 'simulate' the ohms output to help with my gauges on both cars.  Worked great and saved me time and frustration.
 
Not knowing what issues you are having, that is my list of helpful tools.  Whatever is wrong, it has probably been had before by someone on here, and you will likely find a solution.  Glad you are getting hands-on....post your questions when ready. 
 
 
 
 

Wonder if the starter stayed engaged while the engine was running. Other than that, good to see all is well. Nice scenic pic,looks beautiful there ! 

get it hot then go around 25 - 28 mph and slam on the brakes . . if it dies, you gas level is too high in the carb.
 
if you have a heat cross over in the intake and it is connected, i would disconnect it.
 
yes a 5/16" phenolic spacer or 5/16" thick paper carb gasket can help if it is carb fuel boiling.
 
if the fuel line is 1/2" away from the engine and 1" away from the exhaust it is ok.

Yes, those vids are eye opening. I had no idea the speed change was possible till I saw the first vid about a year ago.

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maybe these videos will help explain . . some things are like a hustler magazine...they easier to understand when you see them.
 
if you can not get your tranny up more, than you need to get the mose of your pinion up around 1.5 degrees above horizontal so when it is under load it will be at the same angle relative to the trans . . it does not need to be in line with the trans.
 
 

 

I'd use caution with a wire wheel... I've done that many times in the past and with a regular steel wheel and a heavy hand you can leave scars in the metal.  Maybe it's my Popeye arms :-) however the brass or 'fine' wire wheels don't tend to give me any trouble.  For me I used the SEM paint from NPD... I think it is lacquer so it dries extremely fast and is very light so you don't get a lot of build.  Some of the best spraying paint I've ever used.
 
david

Moodster answered much of what you asked, but I can elaborate a little more.
 
If you have an early engine with early heads, say 69 or 70, the chamber sizes are really close between 351w and 302 heads. 351W heads starting with part number C9 or DO have 60cc chambers. Early 289 heads often had 52 to 55cc chambers, growing over time to 63cc starting with the 68 302 heads, starting with part number C8. Each 5cc is worth approx 1 point in compression, so if you had 69 302 heads and switch to 69/70 351w heads, it might raise your compression a half point max. During the mid 70s, the 302 and 351 heads became the same part number with larger 69cc chambers and smaller (302) valves sizes. Avoid later 351 heads like the plague.
 
Also remember that 351 heads took larger head bolts than 302 heads. You can buy special stepped head bolts that have a thicker 351 shank but 302 thread size. I think they went from 7/16th to 1/2" on the 351s, from memory.
 
Finally, unless you luck into a set of 351 early heads in run ready condition, I would go aftermarket instead. Traditionally rebuilding a head involves installing hardened seats for unleaded fuel, new valve guides, new springs and keepers, possibly new valves depending on condition, milling the head for gasket surface straightness, etc. If you add on larger valves and mild porting (porting 351 heads heavily will introduce you to their water jackets), you will have easily spent more money paying someone for all that than just buying a set of aftermarket aluminum heads for $1000 that will easily outflow your best efforts on the old heads. Unless going for originality, I have a hard time seeing much use for OE heads on Windsor Fords.

My advice would be to stick with the original block if there is nothing wrong with it.  The cost to obtain a 351W along with all the other miscellaneous switch over parts you would need is a bad investment given your goals (reasonable HP, decent mileage).  Right now you have a numbers matching block along with all the correct hookups.  Sometimes just figuring out how to hook something back up on a totally different engine can take weeks (at least for me anyways).  Look at all the different timing covers, water pumps, fans, alternators, etc, etc that have been used on the Ford small block and only a few of those will work on your car.  I'd go with a straight forward rebuild and spend the bulk of my money on machining the old block for new pistons and heads for new valves/valve guides.   
 
david

Well, in my defense, the filler neck does not fit through the hole in the new repop tail panel.  That is why I assumed it installed from the inside. The flare on the bottom of the filler tube is larger than the hole that is pre-cut in the panel.  Of course, the fix will simply be to enlarge the hole a bit, but in a feeble effort to recover some of my lost pride - I had to add this comment :-)

Now....is the doe tag located on the horn, rack or rump area?

You're mounting the fill pipe to the exterior side of the taillight panel, right?

Look something like this ?  Brian

I used charcoal black metallic from National Parts Depot. They have two formulas one for rigid and one for flexible or final pieces.

I always like these threads for some reason, but I usually can't figure it out or am late to the thread.  We should make a game out of it where someone takes a random part off their car and posts it to be identified. Whoever gets it right takes the next turn to post a part. :)

Also check the condenser ,they do go bad 

You might find it less stressful if you can fill your carb bowls with fuel first.
 
I'm not recommending this but its what I have done.
 
I've often found that after replacing the main fuel line and tank that your asking a lot for that little pump to draw the fuel up through the main line. I often slip the flex line off at the fuel pump and put in a jug. I go to the tank opening with a compressed air nozzle and a rag and apply pressure to the tank for about 2 seconds and it will push the fuel up through the line. its a 2-buddy system so your buddy should be at the other end and have something to pinch the rubber fuel line closed once it starts coming through into the jug so it does not siphon. Slip the line back on the fuel pump and your good to go.
 
Filling your fuel bowls and main fuel line reduces the constant cranking trying to get fuel to the carb.

I don't know what that is but it doesn't look like the bracket that aligns the hose on the back of the power steering pump.

I think it's an easy mistake to make for a lot of folks. Back in the day when copper radiators were in every car the tubes were all the same size, so if you went to a radiator with more tubes you had more tube area and better cooling. Today with aluminum radiators when you go to a 4 row the tubes are smaller than a 2 row. Gotta do the math.

I have worked with PRC for many years.  They were brought up in communism. mediocrity is a byproduct.  

I have always used ACC in my cars .the carpet holds up very well and doesn't seem to fade .The tunnel is sometimes a bit baggy but after it is in the car for a while it it seems to lay out .get the one with the jute backing . I think i used to get it at National Parts Depot .

West Coast Cougar has some in their online catalog...
 
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9wy-00915.html?attribs=87
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69sprtmirlenspass.html?attribs=87
 
From their listing...
*NOTE* EARLY 69's USED THE 2112 MIRROR FOR BOTH PASSENGER AND DRIVER SIDES. LATE 69's USED TWO DIFFERENT SIZES FOR EACH SIDE (2124 for driver side, and 2112 for passenger side). BEFORE ORDERING, PLEASE CHECK YOUR DIMENSIONS AND COMPARE TO OUR LISTINGS.

I have the the LED tails and hoodscoop. You'll be very happy with all of it. The hood blinkers stand out much better than original, just a cool feature that most don't have. I get a lot of compliments on them.

That bracket attaches to the back of the power steering pump.  The power steering pressure hose fits into the smaller slot at the left end in your top picture.  It simple helps to position the hose correctly.